Can someone point me to a definitive guide (You Tube or maintenance manual) as to how to change a 2014 Mk7 1.0l Ecoboost alternator? I cant even see the damn thing and all the You Tube guides seem to be for the non Ecoboost engine.

Once you take the engine out it's only a 5 minute job to change the alternator !!

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=4482&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1920247&ProcUid=G1858014&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False

I've done a focus one and that was a bit awkward from what I remember. Know you have to unbolt the air con compressor to access one of the alternator bolts or wiggle the alternator out from underneath the car. I would just take it to a garage and get someone to do it with car up on a garage ramp/ hoist. 

OK thank you for your valuable input, however I was rather hoping for something a little more definitive. I am suffering the common dreaded flattening of the battery over night syndrome and as such would like to eliminate the alternator from the plot. Guess I will open a new thread on the issue.

If it's a problem with the battery not holding the charge overnight then I would be very surprised if it was a problem with the alternator. It's far more likely you either have a battery that is near the end of it's life, or that you have the dreaded parasitic current draw.

Have you checked the SOC of your battery 30 minutes after parking up ?

Do you have lots of short journeys ? It can take about 7 miles to put back the amount it takes to start the car.

Your car has a smart charge system and it's not as "smart" as it would like to think it is. Before even thinking of going down the route of alternator replacement I would be doing some tests and even use FORScan to change the SOC from the default of 80% and increase it to at least 90% or even 95%.

 

Hi Unofix. Thanks for the input. I have started a new thread regarding the discharge of the battery and no I was not intending to change the alternator, just that I should like to know how to remove it as I could not find a video explaining the process and like most modern vehicles it looks well hidden away.

I believe the issue is one of insufficient winter charging of the battery combined with a slightly excessive passive drain after the car completely closes down. Please have a look at the details. The battery is new incidentally and worked well (stop/start) through the summer months.

Unofix

i thought I would update you here as there is no interest in my Battery Thread.

As the battery was under guarantee 9 months into a 5 year warrantee, I thought I would take it into the supplier and get their opinion. They agreed it was not holding charge, removed the electrolyte transit bung that was still installed and asked me to take it for a further 30 minute drive (charge) for a retest. On return it failed to start, completely flat and was deemed knackerd on their Yuasa battery tester. It was replaced with exact same replacement battery and all seems OK now. The stop/start works and in the morning there is a good state of charge in the battery even after a few short winter trips.

Whilst this doesn't address the parasitic drain issues, it does show whilst  even after charging the battery tested OK on my battery tester, that it was close to a catastrophic internal failure for some reason. 

I will run another 30 minute parasitic drain test with the car key well out of the way on this battery, just to see what the figures are now. Incidentally this seems to be  a very common problem (parasitic drain) on Transit vans too.