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Should I repair or sell to a scrapyard / low price to a private buyer?

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My 2007 Focus has failed it's MOT. Luckily, I have my 2009 Focus to fall back on.

Looking at the below, how much do you guys think it will cost and if it's worth repaiting these? I have been quoted £300 so far.

 

Repair immediately (major defects):

  • Offside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
  • Nearside Front Headlamp aim projected beam image is obviously incorrect (4.1.2 (c))
  • Offside Front Direction indicator incorrect colour (4.4.3 (a))
  • Offside Front Inner Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (6.1.7 (g) (ii))
  • Offside Front Outer Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (6.1.7 (g) (ii))
  • Offside Front Upper Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

  • corrosion patch on n/s/r inner and outer sill
  • o/s/f wing not fully secured at the bottom, also has a corrosion patch on it
  • rear exhaust mounting brackets heavily corroded
  • 2x rear exhaust heat shields not fully secured
  • n/s/r tyre has a worn outer sidewall and a temporary puncture repair on the outer edge Dangerous


11 minutes ago, OilSheikh said:

I have been quoted £300 so far.

Is that just for the paper and ink to print off the list of defects 😉😂.

Seriously though £300 seems a bit cheap. What does the quote actually cover?

Obviously the lamps should be a pretty easy fix, just needs an alignment and new lamp fitting.

I'm guessing the garage is just replacing cv boots rather than replacing the driveshaft?

Rust can be like opening a can of worms. Does fixing this patch on the sill require a new sill? Or just a rub back and paint?

  • Author
17 minutes ago, Luke4efc said:

Is that just for the paper and ink to print off the list of defects 😉😂.

Seriously though £300 seems a bit cheap. What does the quote actually cover?

Obviously the lamps should be a pretty easy fix, just needs an alignment and new lamp fitting.

I'm guessing the garage is just replacing cv boots rather than replacing the driveshaft?

Rust can be like opening a can of worms. Does fixing this patch on the sill require a new sill? Or just a rub back and paint?

The quote covers repair of all major defects in the list above.

The headlights are both newish as they were replaced six months ago ... may need some adjustment. I did not ask for details on what they will be repairing.

For the advisories,

the geeza told me that I should look into welding repairs. I could replace the dangerous tyre - I thought it only had a slow puncture caused by a screw but looks like there's more to it.

 

I paid £2,300 for the car in 2017. I have so far spent £1,800 over the last 5 years. My dillemma is should I really be spending any more money on it?!

 

1 minute ago, OilSheikh said:

The quote covers repair of all major defects in the list above.

That makes a little bit more sense.

Perhaps a touch steep for a new driveshaft and drop link, I doubt they'd be using genuine Ford bits. It's all on the same side too, it's not like it would take long to do.

The welding job will only get bigger as time goes on unless you tackle it properly now.

If you were doing the work yourself then it's a no brainer. Less than £100 in parts and it'll keep it on the road another year. Paying someone else to keep repairing your car is another story though.

Unless you're going to get something newer and less likely to have perishables on their way out, I'd just spend the money and get at least the majors done and see whats involved for the rust repair.

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Luke4efc said:

That makes a little bit more sense.

Perhaps a touch steep for a new driveshaft and drop link, I doubt they'd be using genuine Ford bits. It's all on the same side too, it's not like it would take long to do.

The welding job will only get bigger as time goes on unless you tackle it properly now.

If you were doing the work yourself then it's a no brainer. Less than £100 in parts and it'll keep it on the road another year. Paying someone else to keep repairing your car is another story though.

Unless you're going to get something newer and less likely to have perishables on their way out, I'd just spend the money and get at least the majors done and see whats involved for the rust repair.

I have bought a 2009 Focus last month from a dealer.

My mate damaged his 2019 Audi A4's engine as he did not notice the engine warning light and was having his engine replaced. He was driving my 2007 Focus al this time. I figured I would sell it when I got it back from him.

9 hours ago, OilSheikh said:

I have bought a 2009 Focus last month from a dealer.

My mate damaged his 2019 Audi A4's engine as he did not notice the engine warning light and was having his engine replaced. He was driving my 2007 Focus al this time. I figured I would sell it when I got it back from him.

Sounds like he should go halves on the repair bill then... :wink: 

I'm not understanding the tyre issue...if it's actually dangerous, surely it would be covered by a proper RFR in the MOT manual?  Those advisories are just tester opinions.

Personally, I'd say fix the major faults (£300 does seem a bit excessive as Luke said) and then sell it on.  Decent welding jobs cost a lot if you can't weld yourself and I can't see it being worth the cost on a car of this age.

 

  • Author
15 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Sounds like he should go halves on the repair bill then... :wink: 

I'm not understanding the tyre issue...if it's actually dangerous, surely it would be covered by a proper RFR in the MOT manual?  Those advisories are just tester opinions.

Personally, I'd say fix the major faults (£300 does seem a bit excessive as Luke said) and then sell it on.  Decent welding jobs cost a lot if you can't weld yourself and I can't see it being worth the cost on a car of this age.

 

Yeahhh ... things we have to take on the chin for our mates!

I had quotes from two garages today. £160 ( except the lamps) in January ; £250 on Monday incl. lamps. The MOT garage quoted £300.

Either way, I will have to replace the tyre. I have a new Bridgestone in stock. Might just use this.

 

A family friend is interested as he has just passed and needs a car to bash about while he perfects his driving skills. As soon as the car passes MOT again, he will buy it off me.

  • Author

Got another quoter today. Looks all Chinese to me!

 

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3 hours ago, OilSheikh said:

Got another quoter today. Looks all Chinese to me!

 

x.jpg

Is that £23.40 in labour for them to change the indicator bulb? :laugh:

 

They're just allowing for the fact that in most modern cars you have to drop the engine out to change a bulb.

5 hours ago, OilSheikh said:

Got another quoter today. Looks all Chinese to me!

 

It really does depend on your circumstances. In the last 2 months I have spent £300 on getting a replacement rear subframe supplied and fitted, and £120 getting 2 x rear suspension strut mounts replaced. Of course it doesn't make much financial sense, but I really like the car, and despite what looks like loads of money, I am not in a financial position to buy another. (For many on here, that kind of outlay would probably be one or two months payment on a newer car, whereas I own mine outright! LOL).

If you can afford the repairs, it's really not big money, but cars of our vintage don't improve with age!

Don't bother replacing CV boots, just change the drive shaft.

For around £50 (what the garage is charging just for the 2 boot kits), you can get a whole new shaft. Should save a bit on labour too as they won't have to strip the shaft down and clean it all up.

  • Author
15 hours ago, StephenFord said:

It really does depend on your circumstances. In the last 2 months I have spent £300 on getting a replacement rear subframe supplied and fitted, and £120 getting 2 x rear suspension strut mounts replaced. Of course it doesn't make much financial sense, but I really like the car, and despite what looks like loads of money, I am not in a financial position to buy another. (For many on here, that kind of outlay would probably be one or two months payment on a newer car, whereas I own mine outright! LOL).

If you can afford the repairs, it's really not big money, but cars of our vintage don't improve with age!

Oooo, I drive a vintage car. I should be listing it at Sotheby's. 😁

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