Focus Titanium Mk3 (2011), Not starting via On/Off button - Keyfob OK - Any ideas?

[Brum-Titanium]

Problem has been brewing for at least 3 months. Started with random but regular and inaccurate dashboard errors, such as;
Tyre Pressures warning (pressures always fine)
Hill start assist not functioning (worked fine)
Key battery low/replace (key battery was fine)
Temperature in car shows 40-45 degrees (freezing weather outside)

Took it to local garage, they said never seen so many errors in a log, cleared it and suggested start over again and deal with one problem at a time. That was the issue, never one problem always loads and became a real pain to drive in all honesty.

Worth saying performance and fuel economy etc all seemed perfectly normal.

Fast-forward to 2 days back. We're abroad (Spain), about 140 miles away from our destination, stopped for a quick break then wouldn't start up. No European AA/RAC cover in place, serves me right, happy to be slapped but it is what it is so bit late now for a lecture!  Finished our journey via Train+coach so as of this moment I'm unfortunately 140 miles away from where car is parked.

Current symptoms...

1.  Car locks/unlocks fine via key-fob. Lights appear normal so I'd guess fair to assume fob battery and main battery Ok?

Nevertheless, replaced the 3V lithium battery, which made no difference (error still says key battery low).
Local key-fob generator shop tested fob, said all seemed fine suggesting problem with car.

2.  When I press On/Off the first time, ignition lights up as normal, plus I get the 'key battery low' message. I press down clutch then press button again to start... but nothing i.e. makes no noise or no attempt to start. Only clue with that second button press is the sidelights dim as I press the button in. That made me think battery but as I say the headlamps etc all seem ok. 

3.  Phoned a friend who suggested try disconnecting car battery, did this for a few minutes only which made no difference
(Key battery low message still there). Since read other online suggestions that battery needs to be disconnected overnight or for a few hours to have any effect on resetting ECU? As I say, I'm now 140 miles away from car so not something I can simply try.

4.  Last throw of the dice at that time was to try a push start but she wouldn't fire at all as I engaged 2nd gear.

My next plan is to revisit the car in the next 2-3 days (hire a car and bring wife along), bring along a few tools and worse-case scenario tow it 'home' to our local area as that will give me more repair options.

Another option is to call a recovery crew to bring it to where we are (but at close to a 300 miles round trip, the potential costs terrify me).

Any suggestions really appreciated... I realise I'm a plonker having no roadside cover so try and go easy on me   ;o)

Thanks in anticipation..

[unofix]

One of two probable causes.

Faulty instrument cluster which is very common on your model. Caused by poor quality lead-free solder which degrades over time causing many random faults. Do a search on eBay for companies that do an instrument cluster refurbishment (about £80). A quick very un-scientific way to check is to "thump" the top of the dashboard and see if the faults change.

OR

You have the other very common problem with water/corrosion of the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger side fuse box. Disconnect the battery first. Turn yourself upside down and begin disconnecting the BCM and check for signs of corrosion of the pins on the plugs and in the sockets.

[iantt]

6 minutes ago, unofix said:

One of two probable causes.

Faulty instrument cluster which is very common on your model. Caused by poor quality lead-free solder which degrades over time causing many random faults. Do a search on eBay for companies that do an instrument cluster refurbishment (about £80). A quick very un-scientific way to check is to "thump" the top of the dashboard and see if the faults change.

OR

You have the other very common problem with water/corrosion of the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger side fuse box. Disconnect the battery first. Turn yourself upside down and begin disconnecting the BCM and check for signs of corrosion of the pins on the plugs and in the sockets.

2011 might be later focus, not heard of issues with instrument cluster? 

But agree on bcm corrosion. 

[unofix]

2 hours ago, iantt said:

2011 might be later focus, not heard of issues with instrument cluster? 

Totally agree, but there's a guy in another thread with a 2013 that did have an IC problem. Who knows the workings of the Ford manufacturing techniques ?

[Brum-Titanium]

Latest news on our non-starting Focus. Auto-electrics garage (in Spain) says diagnostics suggest problem with electronic steering lock (the car apparently ‘thinks’ the steering lock is always on so won’t allow it to start). They were waiting for someone else to send them schematics which hasn’t happened so now we have a 400 euro tow-truck journey to get it to our current location.. ouch!

Edited March 3, 2022 by Brum-Titanium
Just a typo

[StephenFord]

2 hours ago, Brum-Titanium said:

...so now we have a 400 euro tow-truck journey to get it to our current location.. ouch!

Crikey, I could get a week all inclusive in Benidorm for that LOL