Loss of power (service)

[Simmo80]

I have recently had a loss of power. Started with p010f (maf sensor). I replaced Maf sensor and the code went away. But still loss of power. Used to be able to feel the turbo kick in, although it is working just not got that punch no more. It was about time for a service. So i have done fuel filter, oil filter and oil, and put a performance air filter in.  Started using injector cleaner (DPB 100) only on the 2nd treatment. I am going to clean the intercooler next time i have time. 

But still loss of power and mpg has dropped to around 29 / 32.

It wasn't so long ago it was driving spot on. What else can I do? And how to diagnose the problem? 

Thanks 

[DaveT70]

Firstly ensure one of the boost hoses isn't loose, has come off, or is split.

 

[Simmo80]

4 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

Firstly ensure one of the boost hoses isn't loose, has come off, or is split.

 

Iv had a look over the hoses, not noticed anything so far. Am gonna have a good look when I remove intercooler to clean. 

Any other ideas? Iam leaning towards turbo issues. Although its still got some stick. Just not got that punch no more. Used to feel it throw you back in your seat. 

[DaveT70]

Any fault codes?

[Simmo80]

On 4/1/2022 at 11:22 AM, DaveT70 said:

Any fault codes?

To start i had what felt like a miss fire and the code p010f (MAF sensor) tried the usual cleaning. Didn't fix it so i bought new MAF sensor. The miss fire stopped and to start with no code. Then the code came back when i was over 3k revs for around 10 seconds. Anyway decided it was time to service. Reolaced the air filter with a performance filter. Replaced the fuel filter and oil /oil filter. Started treatment of fuel system with DPB100 (injector cleaner). Visually inspection of pipes, tightened all clamps up a little. 

Still get p010f when around 3.5 revs for around 10 seconds. Cant feel the turbo kick in like it used to. 

If there's any small vacuum pipes i cant find any except the one that goes from top of EGR to the engine. 

I could really do with knowing where all the hoses are that are involved in boost pressure. So i can check them out. 

Ford focus mk2 1.8 tdci the duratorq with the spider shaped fuel rail. 

[TomsFocus]

Which performance filter did you fit?  The oil on some of them can cause MAF problems.  I know your problem was there before but I wouldn't have tried that until the MAF fault was confirmed fixed.

Both the 90 degree bend and the solid metal boost pipe are common areas for cracks/splits.  The small MAP sensor vac pipe on top on the engine is easily broken.  

I'd also check that the turbo vanes are free if you can access the actuator.  If they aren't able to close fully, you won't be getting that sudden 'kick' of boost and the MAF takes a few seconds to realise it's not getting all the air that it expects.

[DaveT70]

Yes, put a clean, standard air filter back in and clean the MAF again

[Simmo80]

On 4/4/2022 at 9:28 AM, TomsFocus said:

Which performance filter did you fit?  The oil on some of them can cause MAF problems.  I know your problem was there before but I wouldn't have tried that until the MAF fault was confirmed fixed.

Both the 90 degree bend and the solid metal boost pipe are common areas for cracks/splits.  The small MAP sensor vac pipe on top on the engine is easily broken.  

I'd also check that the turbo vanes are free if you can access the actuator.  If they aren't able to close fully, you won't be getting that sudden 'kick' of boost and the MAF takes a few seconds to realise it's not getting all the air that it expects.

Thanks. Ill check the pipes again. Pro Ram air filter. I'll give maf a quick spray with electrical contact cleaner. But by the sounds iam leaning towards the turbo actuator. Any help on what the veins look like and what i have to do to check them. Do i have to remove anything to get to the arm. Besides removing the wipers and the pannel to give some extra arm space. Any pics or links for videos would be great. 

Appreciate you guys! 

[TomsFocus]

2 hours ago, Simmo80 said:

Thanks. Ill check the pipes again. Pro Ram air filter. I'll give maf a quick spray with electrical contact cleaner. But by the sounds iam leaning towards the turbo actuator. Any help on what the veins look like and what i have to do to check them. Do i have to remove anything to get to the arm. Besides removing the wipers and the pannel to give some extra arm space. Any pics or links for videos would be great. 

Appreciate you guys! 

ProRam air filters aren't oiled so that shouldn't have affected the MAF hopefully.

The VNT vanes are inside the exhaust side of the turbo so you can't see them, but they get clogged up with sooty deposits over time.  The way to check them is pop the arm off of the actuator and make sure it moves freely.  I can't remember if the actuator is accessible on the 1.8 TDCI Focus or not, you'll have to have a look unless someone else can confirm.  This video shows the basic idea, albeit on a Mondeo with the same type of actuator.

 

[Simmo80]

On 4/5/2022 at 7:48 PM, TomsFocus said:

ProRam air filters aren't oiled so that shouldn't have affected the MAF hopefully.

The VNT vanes are inside the exhaust side of the turbo so you can't see them, but they get clogged up with sooty deposits over time.  The way to check them is pop the arm off of the actuator and make sure it moves freely.  I can't remember if the actuator is accessible on the 1.8 TDCI Focus or not, you'll have to have a look unless someone else can confirm.  This video shows the basic idea, albeit on a Mondeo with the same type of actuator.

 

Finally got round to having a look at the actuator. It's hardly moving and doesn't move when engine starts, but I can hear it spooling, and seems to be slight exhaust fumes. Can still feel the turbo in 2nd mainly but it's a smooth pick up. not like it used to be. so am guessing over boost.

I can't hardly get to the circlip without being scared of loosing it or struggling to get it back on.

So guys ? What's my next move?

[Simmo80]

Also, if I was to drill hole for cleaning like in the video. I'll be drilling the exhaust side? Or can I spray some turbo cleaner from the intake side?

[TomsFocus]

10 minutes ago, Simmo80 said:

Also, if I was to drill hole for cleaning like in the video. I'll be drilling the exhaust side? Or can I spray some turbo cleaner from the intake side?

I don't recommend drilling it, posted that video just to show the actuator really.

Definitely don't spray anything in the intake side.  That'll go through the engine and won't make any difference to the vanes.

The next step is to get that arm off and feel whether the vanes are sticking or not.  The actuator itself could be faulty if the vanes feel free.  Perhaps use a magnet or place a rag underneath so that you can't lose the circlip?

[Simmo80]

They is like a pointless gaurd over the top of rod and circlip. It moves slightly when revs are increased. But only movement is probably little less than 10mm. I will have another go when I have more time. Can barely get my fingertips to the circlip. So I will try find a magnet or devise a way to not loose it. Hope they are easy to get hold of lol if I do loose it. I think putting it back on will also be difficult.

[Simmo80]

This is how difficult it is to get to circlip. And that's about elbow deep down the back of the engine!

[TomsFocus]

11 hours ago, Simmo80 said:

This is how difficult it is to get to circlip. And that's about elbow deep down the back of the engine!

Wow.  Shame it's not a Mondeo!  

I haven't worked on this engine in the Mk2 so can't really offer any practical advice for removing it.  The panel across the back of the engine bay can be removed easily enough (wipers off, plastic panel off, metal panel off) if that would help at all?  That's what needs doing for glowplugs or EGR on the 1.6 TDCI's.  Or anything else that could be removed to give you more access?

You won't get much rod movement while the car is stationary, it needs to be under load to get significant movement.  There really is no other way to check the vanes than to manually feel them unfortunately.

[Tizer]

There might be a PID in FORScan for the Vane position although I'm not sure if there is for that engine. 

There should be one for MAP/Boost Pressure, which should get near 250 Kpa momentarily when the car is driven under extreme load. 

As Tom says, you can rev the guts out of it when stationary and the Vanes, Boost Pressure, Fuel Pressure etc will not get anywhere near their maximum.

Might be an idea to check that the MAF and MAP do the same as each other when driving too.  

[Simmo80]

OK guys, today I took off the cat from the exhaust and sprayed egr turbo cleaner inside. Took off the circlip (which I lost for about 20 mins until it fell out of my sleeve) and got the arm moving freely. Although it wasn't that stiff to begin with, but by the time I'd finished it was moving really easy. So, I was thinking actuator. But now I have read the actuator doesn't really move unless under load I don't know. Back to square 1. Question? Does the arm fully move when engine is turned on? Just so I know if it's moving at all. As I have only been doing this alone and I can't see the rod while behind the wheel. 

Also I removed boost pipe that goes onto the egr so I could get my arm down to spray some WD on the bolts to remove the cat. I noticed the pipe and egr was full of slimy oily carbon. I cleaned it out, the sensor thing its map or boost pressure not sure. Is also filthy. At the min I used the last of my contact cleaner cleaning the map, so I have yet to clean this. 

I want to clean the intercooler out as iam guessing most of the sludge will also be in the intercooler. I got one bolt off but the other snapped, but didn't come away. Any ideas? Am I going to have to cut this off as it just spins but don't come apart? 

Sorry for the long post but this is where I am. 

Thanks for the help and I hope my adventure will help someone else. 

[Simmo80]

On 4/20/2022 at 1:43 PM, Tizer said:

There might be a PID in FORScan for the Vane position although I'm not sure if there is for that engine. 

There should be one for MAP/Boost Pressure, which should get near 250 Kpa momentarily when the car is driven under extreme load. 

As Tom says, you can rev the guts out of it when stationary and the Vanes, Boost Pressure, Fuel Pressure etc will not get anywhere near their maximum.

Might be an idea to check that the MAF and MAP do the same as each other when driving too.  

Had the obd2 with live data on map and maf, both look pretty much identical while driving. 

Also if I do remove the actuator. Is it just the 3 bolts, circlip and electrical connection. Or is there a tube connected to the bottom? As I looked at a pic of the actuator and can see a hole type connection at the bottom and how does it connect?