So, I've been thinking again about this (actually, seems like it's the only thing I can think about lately!) and I'm again wondering if the ABS unit is at fault. I'm not saying that the drain itself is causing the fault, but rather that this is a symptom of something with the module, which is wreaking havoc with the electronics of the car and, at times, causing it to fail to start. The evidence for this is as follows:

 

• The guys at Trustford did do a thorough electrical check (they should have given how much they charged me!!) and that was the only fault they found. The scanner itself did not throw up any faults or anything and it was only deep inspection which showed this drain with the ABS module as the only apparent electrical fault. I also have to assume that, with the very long history of issues with the powershift gearbox in these cars, which I assume they are well acquainted with, they considered but found no evidence of a fault. - also, as I mentioned, I've never had any gearbox problems.
• The "Parking aid" error is very odd, but the other errors that show up could plausibly be related to the ABS unit - e.g. the "hill start assist deactivated" message as well as the dashboard light for the ESP staying on for longer, albeit disappearing eventually
• On this, I was having another look at the video https://youtu.be/hIXPTG8GMrY, where (out of sheer luck) I filmed the dashboard one of the times that it failed to start and then started on the second go. Both when it started and when it failed to start I got the same "Parking aid" error message. However, the time it failed to start the ESP dashboard light never switches off, whereas the time it did start it does. Again, my understanding is that the ESP is somewhat related to the ABS module
• Finally, if I read the trustford diagnosis correctly, the rate of drain is not constant (seems to suggest that it fluctuates between 0.05A and 0.25A). Yesterday's battery test (while connected to the car) would be consistent with this, at least according to my understanding, as the device failed to calibrate itself and kept saying that there was "noise in the system", as if there were a "variable" load .

Again, I am convinced that there is nothing related to the battery or that this fault is draining the battery, but rather that this is a symptom of something going wrong with the electronics of the unit, which may be having wider ramifications.

Does that seem plausible?

It is a standard condition of all automatics (not just Ford) that the foot brake must be pressed and held down for the engine to be started.

If your car has been starting without doing that then there has to be a problem. On some cars it is possible to start the engine with the selector in Park or Neutral, but again the foot brake must be applied.

Do you have push button start or do you turn a key to start the car ?

I have to turn the key to start the car. Also, what it has never allowed me to do is to move the shifter without the brakes pedal being pressed. You can always feel the lock releasing when you press the brake, even when the car is turned off.

3 hours ago, chssvl said:

what it has never allowed me to do is to move the shifter without the brakes pedal being pressed

That is correct and is a safety requirement on cars with Automatic gearboxes. The fact that it is preventing the shifter from being moved unless the brake pedal is pressed confirms that the car does detect the brake switch. I would suggest that you try for the next week or so making sure that you always hold the brake pedal down while starting the engine and see if you have any more instances of the starter not operating.

Thanks. Let me try it out. At this moment I can't remember if the times when it failed I pressed the brakes or not, but I'm sure I've started it without pressing on the brakes as over the past week I started it a couple of times from outside the car

1 hour ago, chssvl said:

but I'm sure I've started it without pressing on the brakes as over the past week I started it a couple of times from outside the car

That should never ever be possible with any car with automatic transmission.

The owners handbook for your model [Page 115] confirms that the brake pedal must be pressed in order to start the car (just as with manuals, you have to press the clutch pedal).

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3568_FOC_og_201201.pdf

Yes, I also checked the manual and saw that, but is it that the system actually prevents the car from starting? I know newer cars have such a system (or requiring the clutch to be depressed in a manual), but thought older cars didn't. 
 

In any case, I think I always step on the brake pedal before starting but I do recall times when I started the car without pressing it (e.g. two years ago when I had the A/C regassed). 
 

I'm a bit torn at the moment. Before this issue I had been considering selling it and now I've made up my mind to sell it as is. However, I was planning on doing so in late September as I was actually going to use it in the next couple of months. I'm wondering if I should stick with my plan and keep using it for the next couple of months given that it does start and run, even when it gives a bit of trouble, but I have no sense if this problem will get worse and it will leave me stranded at the worst possible time. 

OK. I know I'm clutching at straws here but thought I'd mention one last thing in case it's of any use.

I have one of those air compressors that you plug into the cigarette lighter socket - have had it longer than I've had the car. About two months ago, I was inflating the car's tyres and it blew the fuse (in the compressor - not the car, a 10A fuse). Got the replacement fuse, ran it for 30 seconds or so and it blew the fuse again. Replaced the fuse but did not use it again.

In any case, this morning I was inflating the tyres on my bike (relatively low pressure) and after about 5 seconds the fuse blew again. Replaced the fuse, tried again and it blew the fuse immediately

I know that this is most likely an issue with the compressor. Also, I normally plug a USB charger into that socket for the phone and not had any issues with it. Probably all just a coincidence, but thought I'd mention it. 

That has to be a fault within the compressor. Nothing to do with the car at all.

3 hours ago, chssvl said:

I know that this is most likely an issue with the compressor.

I sense that you are still uneasy. 🤔

I think the only thing to do is spend a couple of hundred pounds and send the ABS unit away for a full refurbishment and at the same time just to be on the safe side spend a few quid and buy a new tyre compressor.

A refurbished ABS won't make any difference but a new compressor will at least stop the fuse blowing 😉

3 hours ago, unofix said:

I sense that you are still uneasy. 🤔

I think the only thing to do is spend a couple of hundred pounds and send the ABS unit away for a full refurbishment and at the same time just to be on the safe side spend a few quid and buy a new tyre compressor.

A refurbished ABS won't make any difference but a new compressor will at least stop the fuse blowing 😉

You bet that I'm still a bit uneasy! 😉 But have to say that through this thread I've learned quite a lot. It is a combination of frustration and excitement thinking about "aha! what about this..."

In any case, the compressor has an appointment with the screwdriver tomorrow. I'm guessing that it's probably the rings on the tiny piston that are worn, increasing the friction, which increases the current and, therefore, blows the fuse. However, its replacement will have to be a manual pump as, once I sell the Focus, it will be rentals and Zipcars for the foreseeable future. Really feel sad about the whole thing as it was a very good car over the past seven years and had some very enjoyable trips in it, but such is life.

I will also try to do the drain test tomorrow, if anything just to learn how it's done. I have a multimeter and a keen interest so might as well give it a go. Will report back if I see anything interesting

So, just as a quick situation update. I sort of decided to live with the situation for the time being. I've been using the car and it seemed that as long as I waited long enough for the parking error message and most of the lights on the dashboard to turn off (a couple of seconds), the car would always start. After long drives, short drives, several days without starting it, it would always start. I'd say I'd get the error message about 2/3 of the time and other times I would get nothing, but always managed to drive off, no issues.

However, yesterday, after a 40-45 minute drive in the searing heat I parked the car and, seeing that I hadn't parked properly, I decided to start it again to reverse a bit but then the problem struck again. This time I realised that neither the error message nor the ESP light went off at all - that was the only dashboard light that remained (other than the usual ones that are meant to stay on).

I tried many times, waited to see if that light went out, but it never did. In any case, I thought I would need to call the AA for a rescue but decided to first just unplug the battery and leave it like that and went for lunch. Came back about an hour later, plugged the battery again and it started with no error messages or anything.

Definitely seems consistent with disconnecting the battery allowing time for some component to fully shut down and then restart and work properly.

It is really a mystery. I've heard stories of people having odd electrical problems with Fords, testing the battery only to show up as it being fine and then replacing it anyway and problems going away.

I also wonder if it was maybe anything to do with the horrible heat yesterday. When I lifted the bonnet to disconnect the battery it felt properly hot...

Hmmmm....such a mystery...

Hi all. Sorry to bring this up but thought I would give a (final) update in case anyone wants to use it as useful reference.

I took the car to another (non-Ford) mechanic who tried several things, including whether there was an issue with the instrument cluster or a weak electric joint somewhere in the car. None of that did the trick. He took the car to a friend who has access to the Ford equipment and he confirmed that there was nothing wrong with the ABS unit, but that there was a problem with the TCM (transmission control module), which would be consistent with what I had found before (see https://www.justanswer.com/ford/b4xxi-message-car-parking-aid-malfunction.html )

In any case the repair was way too expensive for the use I gave the car so sold it as seen, albeit at a discount.

Pretty frustrated about the whole thing. I knew those early MK3 powershift Focus' had been plagued with gearbox/clutch issues, but I never had any problems so thought I would be spared. Guess I was wrong.

What I am absolutely fuming about is the "diagnosis" at the ford dealer - £300 for a wrong diagnosis. Had I trusted them further they would have charged me an extra £1k for a new ABS pump that still wouldn't have solved the problem.

The only silver lining was that I did learn a lot through this discussion 🙂 Thanks again!

On 7/23/2022 at 8:05 PM, unofix said:

Personally I don't actually think you do have a problem with ABS unit, but difficult for me to prove otherwise when I'm at the other end of the country.

Well you have had an eventful year, mostly without the use of your car. Sad that the car was going to cost too much to repair but at least you didn't waste money replacing the ABS.

Let's hope you have better luck with your next motor 👍