Hi all, so after 2 and a half years i got my MK5 2006 1.6 fiesta back on the road, it has only done 21k and when it was SORN i started it every week, move it back and forth and kept handbrake off etc.

I did a service on it (Not the oil and oil filter yet) and after a few minor faults like wheel bearings it passed the MOT!

So took it out for a good run today, it seemed a bit juddery in the lower gears (idle was fine) and when engine was up to temp i noticed when i was going up hills the engine light was flashing, but when on a decline it was not flashing.

From what i have read, it seems like a misfire causing this. Does this sound about right?

My next step is to replace the spark plugs and leads and fuel filter 9And the oil change) Does this sound like the next logical steps guys?

 

Thanks for any help!

9 minutes ago, Kevlar-2006 said:

From what i have read, it seems like a misfire causing this. Does this sound about right?

My next step is to replace the spark plugs and leads and fuel filter 9And the oil change) Does this sound like the next logical steps guys?

It's possible but, my next 'logical step' would be to get a laptop and download FORScan. Connect up to the OBDII port using a good quality ELM327(modified) lead and see what DTC's have been logged. It takes the guess work out of finding the problem.

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

ELM327(modified) cable: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Thank you so much unofix! 

This seems a great option and not as expensive as i remember! 

I don't have a windows laptop, but i see you can get the android version, will this work an android phone or tablet? 

**EDIT***

Just seen they do the wifi version for Android phones - https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/WiFi_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045473.aspx

I guess this will work on Fiesta also? just double checking 🙂

 

Thanks

Sounds like the throttle body is dirty and is sticking

8 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

Sounds like the throttle body is dirty and is sticking

Thanks Dave, that seems like an easy job and can't hurt! Do you need to disconnect the negative on the battery to reset the ECU? just watched a video on this.

1 hour ago, Kevlar-2006 said:

Thanks Dave, that seems like an easy job and can't hurt! Do you need to disconnect the negative on the battery to reset the ECU? just watched a video on this.

I would, yes

Follow this for resetting throttle body after disconnecting or cleaning

5 hours ago, Kevlar-2006 said:

Just seen they do the wifi version for Android phones - https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/WiFi_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045473.aspx

I guess this will work on Fiesta also? just double checking

Yes the WiFi version should work fine. The only main difference is you can't do any programming changes using the mobile version, but you can still reset the DTC's with it.

Bear in mind if you buy that tunnel rat device you can also use it on other makes of car using various free software so it’s a very useful thing to have in your toolbox. I have the wireless one and wired one from tunnel rat 

Thank you guys! Ordered the tunnel rat! Got the throttle off and will clean it tomorrow, does not look too bad, but can't hurt! I'll also do the fuel filter and oil change the weekend. so hopefully can test for faults next week when it arrives!

 

Have a good weekend and again thanks for the help, really appreciate it!

Hi all, so amazing fast delivery and after a few attempts finally got it to connect, fault issues attached.

So we do have a misfire! I am not sure about the other issues, any help much appreciated.

Thank you

Leads, plugs and probably a coil pack needed

Thanks Dave, may as well do all 3 while i am at it!

Anything to worry about with the other issues?

2 hours ago, Kevlar-2006 said:

Anything to worry about with the other issues?

Put the battery on an overnight charge

Normally in these situations the thing to do is expand all the Fault codes, read them, see if they are current or old ones, take Screenshots for future reference and clear them all, take the car for a run and see what ones come back, if any.

In this case if your Battery is low then that may be causing some of the other U codes, so you need to check that out when the car is not running and when running.

If you have a meter then check the Voltage after the car has been sitting and with the engine running. FORScan should be able to Live Monitor the Battery Voltage and the Voltage at some of the Modules as well.

Regarding the Misfire, have a look at the PID's in the PCM and there may be one there that can give you Live Misfire data with the engine running to see if that Cylinder is not contributing at all or just intermittently. If not then have a look in Mode 6 Tests, there may be clues there.

Lots of things could be causing the Misfire, including lack of Compression. Have a look at the Spark Plugs to see if No 4 looks different. An old school way of checking for the Spark tracking was to look at the running engine in the dark while carefully and safely giving the Leads a wiggle test.

16 hours ago, Kevlar-2006 said:

Thanks Dave, may as well do all 3 while i am at it!

Anything to worry about with the other issues?

As Unofix says, new battery as well

Thank you guys! Noted and will do! will come back after done all the checks and changed plugs etc!

I forgot to mention earlier, if you are not familiar with using FORScan then here is a link to the Android version documentation. https://forscan.org/documentation_Android.html

 

There is one for IOS and Windows as well.

Thank you! much appreciated!

Hey guys, thought i'd give an update. So new coil pack, plugs and leads fitted.

The wells of the spark plugs were swimming in water (as you can see from the pics) Took me about an hour to get the water out and then clean it up before i took the spark plugs out with around 50 cotton buds sellotaped to a chop stick lol! - Any reason why there was so much water in the wells? is this common? or just from being sitting around for a long time?

She is idling perfectly, no issues there, took her for a few runs and no flashing engine warning light anymore. But she still feels like a bit stuttery, through the gears.

I have not had a chance to plug in the tunnel rat device, hopefully will do that later and see what errors i still have.

Also, battery has been fully charged, Voltage seems spot on and Alternator figures are also spot on.

We had a similar problem with a low rev wide open throttle misfire on my partners 2005 1.4 Fiesta. The garage said the plug wells and plug insulators needed cleaning as they were jammed up with wet leaves. Once done it ran fine again without replacing anything else. Looks like it might be prone to this so keep an eye on it.

Hi all,

I have been away with work for a few weeks, so did not have a chance until now. 

So after changing the coil pack, plugs and leads, i took her out for a good run, stop starting and idle is fine, but the longer the run the worst the stuttering became, going up one hill i thought it was going cut out (Engine light flashing at me) at 40mph, so had to have high revs in third until i hit flat road and then it was much better but still that stutter between 1500 - 3000 revs. So the longer it's running the. worse it gets.

Now i did all the tests and screen shot them all, Now when before i had a misfire on Cylinder 4 i know have one on Cylinder 2 - Totally confused.

There was an option to reset the DTC's would this help at all?

I have ordered a compression test kit, so will test the compression this week, just to rule that out.

So from my research i think (No expert) I either have engine damage (only done 21k) Injectors are clogged or faulty (I have added Injector cleaner to the tank and will keep testing)? Catalytic convertor needs to be replaced? Or The In tank fuel pump needs replacing?

 

Any help much appreciated on my next steps please guys.

 

 

If the miss-fire has moved, swap the plug over and see if the miss-fire moves to that cylinder, could be a faulty plug

1 hour ago, DaveT70 said:

If the miss-fire has moved, swap the plug over and see if the miss-fire moves to that cylinder, could be a faulty plug

Thanks Dave, that was my plan! knowing my luck i had a faulty new plug! Just so understand this correctly - The Cylinders are they numbers 1-2-3-4 left to right? or are the 3-2-1-4 left to right? I have seen YT Videos with them marked up both ways and wanted to be sure. 

Thanks

9 minutes ago, Kevlar-2006 said:

The Cylinders are they numbers 1-2-3-4 left to right?

Well, as I'm in the trade I class Right as when looking from the steering wheel, so number 1 is on the RH side, steering wheel side, opposite side to the gearbox. And yes, 1-2-3-4

***Update FIXED***

Well, that took a while lol! First off i would like to thank everyone that replied here, super helpful and i have learned a lot! 

So how did i fix it?? A bleeding new battery! I know it showed up in the scan, but as i was fully charging the battery and the alternator works and i was getting the issues so i ruled it out, until I did not touch the car for 3 weeks and i check the battery and it was on 2V - I thought, thats not right at all, so i got a new battery in, and did the scan and all the issues disappeared. I have taken it for 2 long runs the last few days (Just incase) and it seems great!

 

Now as i need to understand what happened, any inkling on why the battery was causing a misfire? I though the battery just started the car and then the alternator took over the power to the car - But i could be wrong. My brain needs to know why, why why Ha! 

 

Cheers guys!