Hello!

First post here.

Want to say hi to this wonderful community.

I have a 2012 Focus mk3 that I do not drive very often.Today I went to start it,and when I press the unlock button nothing happened.It is been sitting for maybe 2 months so I thought that the battery is flat.Found a way to measure it and no luck it,has 12.5V which is OK.The main problem is that the mechanic lock is not working,problem is in the barrel it self and I can't get in the car.It is the model with keyless start.

So have anyone had that issue when long time not used.I think that I have read in the manual that if the car is not used for long period it will disable the keyless start and you have to put the key near the key symbol on the column for it to relearn and press the ON/Start button for it to start it,but not to unlock it.But will this stop the remote to unlock too??

Maybe you have to open the car with the door key and put it on the symbol to make the remote work again?But I can not open the car.

Is someone had to sync the key to make it work again?

PS 

Forgot to say that the key battery also is OK,and I tried both keys 

Please Help.

1 hour ago, sva86 said:

.It is been sitting for maybe 2 months so I thought that the battery is flat.Found a way to measure it and no luck it,has 12.5V which is OK

I'd say that 12.5V after sitting unused for 2 months is more than OK, I'd say it was unbelievable.

1 minute ago, unofix said:

I'd say that 12.5V after sitting unused for 2 months is more than OK, I'd say it was unbelievable.

Yes I was surprised too!

I have never checked the voltage before,but previous time the car wasn't driven for a month,and it started on the press of the button,like it was turned off 5min ago.

I would persevere with the key in the lock. Mine seized up too a couple of years ago. Basically it's very common as no one ever uses the darn thing as they just blip their remote. As a result, the mechanical lock just seizes over time from lack of use. You need to spray plenty of lubricant in it, preferably something like 3 in 1 oil. You need to just keep spraying, and wiggling the key in it. If you're concerned, use the spare key if you are afraid it may break in the lock, but almost certainly it won't. 

Once you do free the lock which you'll do eventually, get into the habit like me of using it once/month just to ensure it doesn't seize again.

20 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

I would persevere with the key in the lock. Mine seized up too a couple of years ago. Basically it's very common as no one ever uses the darn thing as they just blip their remote. As a result, the mechanical lock just seizes over time from lack of use. You need to spray plenty of lubricant in it, preferably something like 3 in 1 oil. You need to just keep spraying, and wiggling the key in it. If you're concerned, use the spare key if you are afraid it may break in the lock, but almost certainly it won't. 

Once you do free the lock which you'll do eventually, get into the habit like me of using it once/month just to ensure it doesn't seize again.

I bought the car with the key not working.The funny thing is,that the problem is not turning the key.The key turn effortlessly in both directions,but nothing happens.It comes to a stop but feels like it is not connected to anything inside.

1 minute ago, sva86 said:

I bought the car with the key not working.The funny thing is,that the problem is not turning the key.The key turn effortlessly in both directions,but nothing happens.It comes to a stop but feels like it is not connected to anything inside.

That's a whole new thread 

2 hours ago, StephenFord said:

That's a whole new thread 

I meant the lock on the door not working with the key.That is how I bought it,but I don't care about that.The thread is about the remote.

6 minutes ago, sva86 said:

I meant the lock on the door not working with the key.

We know! LOL

10 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

We know! LOL

I retreated from this thread at 12.5V 🤣

4 hours ago, sva86 said:

.Found a way to measure it and no luck it,has 12.5V

How did you manage to get access to measure it?

Have you tried a new battery in the remote, or are you saying the remote doesn't work with a new battery?

3 minutes ago, mjt said:

Have you tried a new battery in the remote..

But he has tried both keys...  I reckon he 'tested' the battery by shoving one of those highly accurate voltage testers into the cigarette lighter!

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

I retreated from this thread at 12.5V

Our Mk3 stood for that amount of time during lockdown and still started after I'd gained access with the mechanical key, which worked albeit being stiff. Of course as the car had gone to sleep the alarm sounded until I started the engine. I wasn't aware of this 'feature' until then and only found it in the manual afterwards.

However this goes to show that it's perfectly possible for the battery to retain enough charge to start the car after a significant time standing idle.

Just now, StephenFord said:

I reckon he 'tested' the battery by shoving one of those highly accurate voltage testers into the cigarette lighter!

I'd love to know how he managed that without being able to unlock the car.

2 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

But he has tried both keys

Yes, my bad, I didn't notice that.

.... Had to edit this post because I misread something above and therefore typed something that was nonsensical.  I don't think I can delete my post, so just ignore me. Sorry.

1 minute ago, mjt said:

However this goes to show that it's perfectly possible for the battery to retain enough charge to start the car after a significant time standing idle.

I started my mums car 3 days ago after sitting since mid October last year, started 1st twist of the key. Though to be fair, it's a 22 year old Toyota Yaris LOL

Maybe he has one of these state of the art tester things

1 minute ago, unofix said:

Maybe he has one of these state of the art tester things

OMG, takes me right back to 'O' level physics! LOL

The AVO model 8 was the Rolls-Royce of test meters in it's day. I still have one.

5 minutes ago, mjt said:

However this goes to show that it's perfectly possible for the battery to retain enough charge to start the car after a significant time standing idle.

...and I don't doubt that for one minute. Only that any regular 12Volt lead acid battery will not sit at 12.5V for more than a couple of days.

5 minutes ago, mjt said:

I'd love to know how he managed that without being able to unlock the car.

Me too!

12 hours ago, unofix said:

...and I don't doubt that for one minute. Only that any regular 12Volt lead acid battery will not sit at 12.5V for more than a couple of days.

Please don't spam the thread!

If you have nothing to say,just don't.I am a electronics engineer,and yes I do have a AVO/MEGGER multimeter.I fact I have about 8 different type of meters at home.I just do not have much experience with Ford.And yes I will tell how I measured the voltage without getting any access to the car.If you get under it on a floor jack you can reach the starter main cable that comes directly from the battery.

Main question was if anyone had experience with the car not unlocking from the remote after a long period.I think that if I was able to unlock it with key put it on the emergency key place and press the start button it will work.Just not Shure.

 

 

 

Oh an electronics engineer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What can I say ???????

Then you would know that a 12Volt battery unused for 2 months would not be sitting at 12.5Volt

Before you dig a bigger hole for yourself, I should say I'm very confident that my qualifications will out rank yours considerably, but it's not something I ever mention on the forum as I would consider it to be crass.

Your post has been both confusing and contradictory and hence the replies. Perhaps if you had simply said my remote keyfob(s) are not working then a meaningful discussion would have followed.

Lastly if you do not wish to see any replies from me simple click on the ignore option.

42 minutes ago, sva86 said:

.And yes I will tell how I measured the voltage without getting any access to the car.If you get under it on a floor jack you can reach the starter main cable that comes directly from the battery.

....and just as an aside to your rant, I never asked how you measured the voltage without opening the bonnet.

27 minutes ago, unofix said:

....and just as an aside to your rant, I never asked how you measured the voltage without opening the bonnet.

I do not feel like outranking anyone.Yes the Voltage was not 12.5V it was 12.35V but I don't think this will make any difference.If you do not believe it is your choice to do that.If I was wanting to make a point of wat was my education I would start with that.