I'm getting a noise from this area but can't find out what it is. 

My battery drain has come back again, despite having a new Ford battery fitted two months ago.  I used a jump pack to start it this morning and when I switched the car off, I was getting a clicking noise from this part of the engine.  This is also the area where a 'clunk' comes from, when I have to press the Boost button on the jumper pack.

I've had this problem since June of last year and after a week in their workshop, the main Ford agent was adamant that it was a battery from Halfords that was not fit for purpose.  That was ok for 7 weeks and now we are back to square 1.  The first appointment to get the car in again, is on the 13th March.  It's driving us mad.

The photo shows where the noise seems to start and finish (using my trusty listening stick), including down to the metal part below the top arrow.  

Can anyone please tell me what this is?  If you want to hear the noise, I've put a YouTube video here 

I hope the Ford agent is giving you the money back for the battery.

The bottom part is the MAP sensor, fairly sure that won't be making any noise.  The top part is the throttle body, that goes through a 'self-check' cycle which does make a noise.  

I'm intrigued by that metal(?) strap with the bolt above the engine mount.  Should that be fixed to something?

has any one checked how well the alternator is charging the battery ?

secondly what kind of driving and use is the car getting - in the winter with lights, heater fans, heated seats, and heated screens on, the current pull is significant (in fact on a modern car its huge all year round) and the battery has a hard life

if you only drive the car for short, less than three miles runs once every two weeks or so - no modern car will cope.  Every time you start a car for the engine to reach full temp and burn off the dangerous pollutants inside and for the battery to hope to survive, you should do a minimum of 10 miles driving - anything less is placing hugely more wear on the car and damaging the vehicle

if you are doing 5 to 7 mile journey's three times a week and still have a flat battery - most likely you have a current drain from an item of kit that is not falling asleep.  This is a common issue in modern canbus cars that have multiple networked modules of madness operating at critical volts - and damp or corrosion makes it forget how to behave (as can a low volt battery) - it is NOT normal an item under the bonnet or indeed one related to the starting and movement of the car is the issue - it more likely lighting, electric windows, locks and interior toys and features that have a fault

26 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I hope the Ford agent is giving you the money back for the battery.

The bottom part is the MAP sensor, fairly sure that won't be making any noise.  The top part is the throttle body, that goes through a 'self-check' cycle which does make a noise.  

I'm intrigued by that metal(?) strap with the bolt above the engine mount.  Should that be fixed to something?

I hadn't noticed that unattached strap Tom.  I will certainly get that sorted.  I don't know what it is but there seems to be a threaded hole beneath it, so I will find a bolt.  Thank you.

 

12 minutes ago, Botus said:

Many thanks for getting back to me Botus.  The alternator has been checked numerous times, including when has any one checked how well the Ford dealers had it for a week in December.  No problem at all. 

I very rarely drive at night and I would think we do about 3 or 4 journeys a week, ranging from 4 miles to 30 miles.  We do about 45-50 miles a week.  The car only has 11000 on the clock.  I do drive at the speed limit and am not a dawdler.  The roads around this area though, do restrict going about 45-50 mostly though.

The car has always been kept on the driveway but I don't see any damp or corrosion and the battery is only 2 months old.

Some time ago, whilst sitting in the car with everything switched off for an hour, I did find a noise coming from the eject button of the cd player.  I did give Ford a note listing all symptoms but I have the feeling that they never looked at it.  I see on YouTube that the radio/cd is a common cause of battery drain.

Many thanks again Botus, I really do appreciate you getting back to me.

Paul

 

try and see if the entertainment system is fully updated - its normal on today's cars they add spy features and or security updates (difficult to tell the difference in the world we now live in) on an increasingly frequent basis

whether you like it or not for the last 18 years, most car's are released with an iteration of software in most modules that is pure luck if it actually does its job - people who say it works - why would I ever update it, are stupid - it mostly doesn't and every 18 months since build they tend to re write every line of code to something drastically less horrific.  Often including more diagnostic capability to help garages find issues more cheaply and so you aren't launching a trident missile each time you scan for new radio stations or to stop your Bluetooth turning off the car beside you when you eject a CD

...all of which means its best to be on the most recent release - as at least 60% of it probably does what is was meant to, vs the 35% buggy crashing mess they'd written 2 years before selling it when new

it might even have this mad wifi rubbish the later ones get, and it's repeatedly trying to pick up your wifi code to get the update OTA (over the air)

 

What Halfords battery was it out of interest? It should have been an EFB100. They’re made by yuasa. Nothing wrong with them. Unless you had a non EFB battery fitted?

Hello Botus and I did update the Sync3 software/firmware a couple of months ago, thinking that might be it.  I have also set it so that WiFi does not come on nor Bluetooth (both in the main settings on screen).  I've started keeping a chart.  Yesterday with the onboard TEST, it showed 10.6 volts but did start.  We then went on a 12 mile run.  This morning, the battery was flat and I couldn't even get the dashboard to light up.  A multimeter test of the battery showed 6.2 volts.  I've had it on charge for 7 hours and it reads 13.1 volts.  Then went into car and tested with the onboard TEST and it read 12.1 volts (but I had opened the door to get in).

I'll check tomorrow and disable the keyless entry settings and try that.

I do appreciate your help though.  Many thanks again

Paul

Dashcam with parking feature. Any lights or screens still lit up when you lock the car and leave it a few mins?

Have you had a idle battery draw test when the car is locked/sleeping?

37 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

What Halfords battery was it out of interest? It should have been an EFB100. They’re made by yuasa. Nothing wrong with them. Unless you had a non EFB battery fitted?

The Halfords battery was an EFB100 but Vosper Ford in Exeter were adamant that it was not 'fit for purpose'.  I didn't believe them at the time but one of the service reception chaps said that, after they'd had it a week, that the car was perfectly ok and had been put outside the showroom that morning for us to collect.  When we got to it, the battery was flat...  The second chap I dealt with, when I had the Ford battery fitted, was much better and explained that the car had to have a dedicated battery.  Been fine since then, for two months - that's how long the Halfords battery lasted.  Can something change in the settings after a certain length of time?

Ford 3 batt problem for Ford Focus forum.pdf Ford initial redacted.pdf

4 minutes ago, unofix said:

So unless I'm very much mistaken they have fitted the exact same spec battery as the Halfords one

Bosch type EFB100

650 CCA

65Ah

 

 

44 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

Dashcam with parking feature. Any lights or screens still lit up when you lock the car and leave it a few mins?

Have you had a idle battery draw test when the car is locked/sleeping?

Dashcam only plugged in when the engine is running and taken out when we park (even for a few minutes).  No lights left on.  I have noticed on occasions, that the wing mirrors seem reluctant to fold in when locking the car, so I have to unlock and lock again for them to go in.

I assumed that the dealership would have done a battery drain check with the doors locks activated, but I don't know.  I have just attached a copy of the invoices itemising what they did, but it doesn't specify.

What is even more annoying, is the fact that I used to be a new car salesman for the main Ford dealership in Leicester, but that was in the early 1970s.  The joys of simple cars where one key fitted almost all cars (if you could wriggle).  I do appreciate your thoughts Alex.

Kindest regards

Paul

 

6 minutes ago, unofix said:

 

I think you are probably right unofix.  I did ring last week and ask whether the battery fitted was an EFB or AGM (my charger has settings for both), but it took a long time of checking before they came back with EFB.  I thought that giving the part number would get me an immediate answer.

 

Edited February 25, 20233 yr by Paul Loseby
Just to make sure unofix saw it

2 minutes ago, Paul Loseby said:

I thought that giving the part number would get me an immediate answer.

The part number on your invoice is the model number of the Bosch battery 444779018. Have they fitted a Bosch battery ? 🤔

1 minute ago, unofix said:

The part number on your invoice is the model number of the Bosch battery 444779018. Have they fitted a Bosch battery ? 🤔

I don't know as there is no visible label - I must admit that I've not checked the top of the casing though.  With how the battery is fitted, you can't see anywhere else.

 

16 hours ago, unofix said:

The part number on your invoice is the model number of the Bosch battery 444779018. Have they fitted a Bosch battery ? 🤔

Hello Unofix and there was a label.  I'd been too engrossed with trying to find the problem that I didn't see the wood for the trees.  Yes it is a Bosch and the code number on the label is 047025244398 which IS the same battery.  They told me this was a much better battery than before but it seems not.  They also told me that it would have been £525 fitted but they discounted it to the original quote of £228.  ***** off to say the least.  Besides them not finding the cause of the drain, they fobbed us off as well apparently.

I think it would be very fair to say you have been Had !!!!  🙁

The normal maximum price for that battery supplied by the RAC (not known to be cheap) is £210.99

Even at Ford main dealer labour rates of £120 per hour fitting would only cost £60

 

8 minutes ago, unofix said:

I think it would be very fair to say you have been Had !!!!  🙁

The normal maximum price for that battery supplied by the RAC (not known to be cheap) is £210.99

Even at Ford main dealer labour rates of £120 per hour fitting would only cost £60

 

I think you are dead right Unofix

 

That’s a big markup on the battery

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s4e07/

 

There is every chance the Halfords battery was faulty after having been drained though. Batteries don’t like deep discharges it can damage them. But it’s not the fact it’s a Halfords battery that was the problem. As I say the Halfords EFB100 is identical (and so I assume made by) the equivalent Yuasa.

 

never buy a battery from a dealership

bought a few from tanya - the service is incredible (when the idiot lets u reach the door before driving off)

I think you have two issues on the car - a constant drain and it will have damaged the battery (they don't take to significant abuse).  Or (and not so likely as two batteries from diff suppliers on a long standing batt drain type fault) the battery is defective.

The Ford dealer (unsurprisingly) sadly gave you the service I would expect.  And they have mismanaged the diagnosis and robbed you of £228 for a battery you never needed.  And now damaged the replacement by not resolving the fault you took it to them for.

 

The folding mirrors is a secret ploy to snap the wires / wear the fold mechanism in the mirror just outside the warranty, so you can hand them £325 to fit a new one every few years.  For the inconvenience of have the mirror constantly in the wrong place.  My not ford car, I turn off the fold feature and fold when I park where its required.  So mine fold a max of 2 times a year vs my sister's Mk3 focus (which NOTE broke ), fold about 16 times a day.

I particularly enjoy the fold when you get back from shopping and just as you lock and they fold, you remember you didn't get another item from the car, so open / fold again, then my sister does the same and the poor mirrors get three times the work out every other trip.  And the special Ford dealer style of - we serviced the car and did the mirror get a mortgage for the bill...  You get home and realise the mirror isn't folding and they say - oh it needs coding you'll have to come back when we can fit you in and we'll charge £120 for that or you can leave it as it is....   But then you find there is no coding and the idiots just forgot to plug the wires in !!!!!

Did I ever mention the new focus mk1 a girlfriend bought - we drove home 150 miles next day I'm looking round and see there is no oil filler cap - due to my great driving magically 60% of the oil wasn't in the engine bay and all of it was in the sump - but the fight to get a sister company to give me a replacement cap there and then was ridiculous and unpleasant

4 hours ago, alexp999 said:

That’s a big markup on the battery

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s4e07/

 

There is every chance the Halfords battery was faulty after having been drained though. Batteries don’t like deep discharges it can damage them. But it’s not the fact it’s a Halfords battery that was the problem. As I say the Halfords EFB100 is identical (and so I assume made by) the equivalent Yuasa.

 

I can see that now Alex.  When I first took the car in, I wasn't impressed by the service reception chap and although I gave him a sheet, and left one in the car, noting all of the symptoms, I feel that they didn't even bother to look.  Other than this problem, the car is ideal for my needs although I would have changed the positioning of the heater controls, so that I didn't have to look down to change them.  I do wish I had never bought a Ford though.

3 hours ago, Botus said:

I don't think I ever would buy a new battery from a dealership again - or a Ford sadly.

I do appreciate your feedback Botus - thank you

Kindest regards

Paul

 

never buy a battery from a dealership

bought a few from tanya - the service is incredible (when the idiot lets u reach the door before driving off)

I think you have two issues on the car - a constant drain and it will have damaged the battery (they don't take to significant abuse).  Or the (and not so likely as two batteries from diff suppliers on a long standing batt drain type fault) the battery is defective.

The Ford dealer (unsurprisingly) sadly gave you the service I would expect.  And they have mismanaged the diagnosis and robbed you of £228 for a battery you never needed.  And now damaged the replacement by not resolving the fault you took it to them for.

 

The folding mirrors is a secret ply to snap the wires / wear the fold mechanism in the mirror just outside the warranty, so you can hand them £325 to fit a new one every few years.  For the inconvenience of have the mirror constantly in the wrong place.  My not ford car, I turn off the fold feature and fold when I park where its required.  So mine fold a max of 2 times a year vs my sister's Mk3 focus (which NOTE broke ), fold about 16 times a day.

I particularly enjoy the fold when you get back from shopping and just as you lock and they fold, you remember you didn't get another item from the car, so open / fold again, then my sister does the same and the poor mirrors get three times the work out every other trip.  And the special Ford dealer style of - we serviced the car and did the mirror get a mortgage for the bill...  You get home and realise the mirror isn't folding and they say - oh it needs coding you'll have to come back when we can fit you in and we'll charge £120 for that or you can leave it as it is....   But then you find there is no coding and the idiots just forgot to plug the wires in !!!!!

Did I ever mention the new focus mk1 a girlfriend bought - we drove home 150 miles next day I'm looking round and see there is no oil filler cap - due to my great driving magically 60% of the oil wasn't in the engine bay and all of it was in the sump - but the fight to get a sister company to give me a replacement cap there and then was ridiculous and unpleasant

 

43 minutes ago, Paul Loseby said:

I would have changed the positioning of the heater controls, so that I didn't have to look down to change them.

Assuming that you have the Sync3 touch screen then climate control options can be added using FORScan. Then you don't need to look down at the panel. You can also add the Heated Seat and heated steering wheel controls if you have them.

57 minutes ago, unofix said:

Assuming that you have the Sync3 touch screen then climate control options can be added using FORScan. Then you don't need to look down at the panel. You can also add the Heated Seat and heated steering wheel controls if you have them.

I didn't realise that.  I shall have a look tomorrow.  Thank you

37 minutes ago, Paul Loseby said:

I didn't realise that.  I shall have a look tomorrow.  Thank you

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