Ford Focus Titanium 2015 - Battery Issues

[RyanP2023]

Hi all,

 

Sorry if I’m posting any of this in the wrong place, I’m looking for some help from experts as I’m a complete novice when it comes to cars!!

 

My car battery died following some MOT issues. I’ve just replaced the car battery, however I have a few concerns:

 

battery - The battery itself is a different shape to the one that was in the car before (which was a Ford battery, so presumably the original). It starts the car fine, however the black plastic case above and metal bracket won’t go on now. There’s also room for the battery to slide back and forward which concerns me. 
 

Key Fob - Since the battery died, my key fob won’t work. I can start the car by putting the fob in the middle compartment but can’t use the fob to lock the car - I need to get the key out manually. 
 

2 Questions:

1. Is the battery I’m using safe or should I try and buy another car battery that physically fits the same as my old one? 
2. Do I need to pay for my key to be programmed or is there anything else I can use to do this myself?

 

Thank you, and sorry for any stupidness in advance!!

[TomsFocus]

Extra room in the box isn't a problem as long as the battery itself is secure.  If the battery feels loose and can slide around then no, it's not safe and it would fail MOT.  The battery cover not fitting is a little annoying but not actually a problem. 

Is the battery correct with regards to spec?  EFB if you have start stop.  And similar Ah & CCA to the original?

 

Have you checked the battery in the keyfob?  Admittedly it would be an odd coincidence for that to fail at the same time as the car battery but not impossible.

 

[RyanP2023]

8 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Extra room in the box isn't a problem as long as the battery itself is secure.  If the battery feels loose and can slide around then no, it's not safe and it would fail MOT.  The battery cover not fitting is a little annoying but not actually a problem. 

Is the battery correct with regards to spec?  EFB if you have start stop.  And similar Ah & CCA to the original?

 

Have you checked the battery in the keyfob?  Admittedly it would be an odd coincidence for that to fail at the same time as the car battery but not impossible.

 

Thank you for replying. 
 

I have just checked and the battery looks like a different spec to the one I’ve taken out the car. 
 

Old battery:

75Ah

700A

 

New battery:

78Ah

650A

 

Do you know what the dangers of it being the wrong spec are? I’ve just driven about 20 miles in it with no issues (other than key), I’m just thinking is it safer to get a new battery (like tomorrow). 

[TomsFocus]

1 hour ago, RyanP2023 said:

Thank you for replying. 
 

I have just checked and the battery looks like a different spec to the one I’ve taken out the car. 
 

Old battery:

75Ah

700A

 

New battery:

78Ah

650A

 

Do you know what the dangers of it being the wrong spec are? I’ve just driven about 20 miles in it with no issues (other than key), I’m just thinking is it safer to get a new battery (like tomorrow). 

Those specs should be ok.  It's just got a bit less starting power than the old one.

If it's a stop start model, did you check if it's compatible with stop start?  Should say EFB or AGM if it is.

Shouldn't be any danger from those specs.  Even if it's not compatible with stop start it'll be ok for a while.  There's no need to change the battery tomorrow.

[andypsp]

no real dangers but as you have found out it`s the wrong size, take it back to where you got it from and see if they will change it.

good place to get batt from next day delivery too. https://batterygroup.co.uk/

just pop your reg in and see if you can get the same amps 75/700

[RyanP2023]

Thank you both so much. 
 

I’ve looked on the battery website and definitely got the wrong size. Length ways it’s about 4cm longer than the one I have fitted. Height weights it’s 1.5cm shorter than what I have fitted. Which will explain why it doesn’t fill the whole space and the brackets won’t go on. 
 

I’ll buy a new one. 
 

With the key fob, I have tried the obvious (changing battery etc). How do I reprogram this? Or who do I look for who can do this? I have my original key so hoping this saves me some money as it’s been one thing after another recently!

[TomsFocus]

1 hour ago, RyanP2023 said:

With the key fob, I have tried the obvious (changing battery etc). How do I reprogram this? Or who do I look for who can do this? I have my original key so hoping this saves me some money as it’s been one thing after another recently!

The fobs do sometimes lose sync when the battery is disconnected, but not often, so that adds to your run of bad luck lately.

There are a few different methods you can try to resync it. 

Firstly, just sitting in the car, switch the ignition on and press the unlock button on the fob. 

If that fails, get out, lock the the car, and then open it again.  Sit in the car, do not press any pedals.  Press the start button on & off 4 times quickly (just long enough to hear the beep each time) and at the end of those 4 times you should hear a long bleep.  At that point, press any button on your fob.  Then switch off the ignition, and see if the fob lock the doors.  

[RyanP2023]

Sorry to bring this back to life. 
 

The car has been running fine with the wrong battery in (I’m trying to hold out until payday so I can buy the correct one)

 

2 new things have happened since:

1. Tyre sensors cannot be detected - I’m not sure if this is related to the battery or genuine. Sometimes it goes off, other times it stays on for duration of the journey. Are these easy parts to replace?

2. Since Wednesday, the car doesnt feel as powerful. It’s a hard one to explain and someone who was in my car didn’t understand what I meant - I’m not sure if I’m thinking too much into it. My Dad said it could be related to diesel being low (it did get to about 10 miles left) and freezing due to recent weather and potentially a blockage so Redex might sort it. Could this be it? 

[Tizer]

25 minutes ago, RyanP2023 said:

2. Since Wednesday, the car doesnt feel as powerful. It’s a hard one to explain and someone who was in my car didn’t understand what I meant - I’m not sure if I’m thinking too much into it. My Dad said it could be related to diesel being low (it did get to about 10 miles left) and freezing due to recent weather and potentially a blockage so Redex might sort it. Could this be it?

Diesel can wax up in cold weather and when I was a lad it was not uncommon where I live for Engines not to start or even cut out shortly after starting but additives are added in the winter by fuel suppliers to stop that now. They did tend to cut out completely rather than lose power. A blockage would also tend to lead to a cut out or juddering rather than low power.

Personally I would not waste money on buying additives, you shouldn't need them and I suspect that a lot of them are just snake oil.

A car will feel less powerful when the ambient temperature is low for a lot of reasons, nothing to worry about if it drives fine when fully up to temperature, which means a good hard out of town run.

The Tyre Pressure sensors are inside the Tyres so these need removed if they need replaced. They maybe ok but not being detected, either way it is impossible to say what is wrong without doing a diagnostic check on them with suitable equipment.