So, I recently changed struts and springs, drop links, before that control arms. Everything fitted together as it should except dust cover. Track ends feel solid. But I get a clunk on drivers side when I turn right, I get the clunk at the end of turning steering wheel to right, just as I begin to return back to straighten up.. I want to figure it out before I go for tracking. Otherwise, what's the point.

Did you replace the strut mounts? I had similar last year (clunk at near max steering) and the strut mount was the issue. 

Did you change anti roll bar bushes?

10 hours ago, Bar72 said:

Did you change anti roll bar bushes?

 

10 hours ago, patja said:

Did you replace the strut mounts? I had similar last year (clunk at near max steering) and the strut mount was the issue. 

No. They didn't seem that bad. How would I check them to see if any good?

On 4/13/2023 at 1:04 PM, TomsFocus said:

You really need a better fitting socket set!

I wouldn't try a twist socket on an impact wrench personally.  But if you do, just press the trigger in very short bursts.

I'm a fan of a 3ft breaker bar.  If there's no space for that, you can always hook a spanner over a shorter bar or another spanner for extra leverage.  Just take care not to slip off and risk injury.

 

On 4/15/2023 at 12:12 PM, sierra3dr said:

Which impact gun have you got? they usually have 3 settings

 

On 4/14/2023 at 1:11 AM, rd457 said:

If you do resort to the impact, I'd suggest at very least putting on some good safety goggles in case the socket explodes.

I've never tried twist sockets myself, but I was impressed by a video I watched a while back of someone testing Sealey's 'lock-on' sockets.

Another suggestion to add to Tom's that might be a bit safer than the spanner trick if trying to get as much leverage as possible in a limited space is to get a bit of metal pipe (which you could cut to the best length of course) and slip this over a ratchet/spanner.

 

10 hours ago, Bar72 said:

Did you change anti roll bar bushes?

No they seem solid. Don't fancy the bolts to sway bar bushings... 

4 hours ago, Simmo80 said:

 

No. They didn't seem that bad. How would I check them to see if any good?

anti roll bar bushes I usually just get a large screwdriver or pry bar and try to move the bar near the bushes.  Any movement in the bar usually means bushes are gone.  Strut top, put car on axle stands and get someone to move steering side to side while listening for clunk or looking at strut top for movement.  Do same again with car on ground as it may not clunk unless weight on it.

6 hours ago, Simmo80 said:

 

No. They didn't seem that bad. How would I check them to see if any good?

Plenty of YouTube videos give good visual advice on this. 

I was surprised by how loud the clunk was from it. Always at near full lock, always at similar/same point in the steering. 

5 hours ago, patja said:

Plenty of YouTube videos give good visual advice on this. 

I was surprised by how loud the clunk was from it. Always at near full lock, always at similar/same point in the steering. 

Mine anytime before full lock happens just as I begin to straighten up. They didn't make noise before I changed springs so am thinking it's more something I've recently moved like the strut mounts. I can't see them moving from the top without moving the thing that looks like a tennis racket 2x 10ml bolts and 3x 13ml . Should I remove that, put the 3 13s back on to see if it moves. But it don't make the noise while stationary. But should imagine should be able to feel it or see it. Also the mount is like a triangle. I think it only fits 1 way so am guessing I got that right. How do I check inner track rods? I'll have a search on YouTube.

Thanks guys

On 4/23/2023 at 10:00 AM, Bar72 said:

anti roll bar bushes I usually just get a large screwdriver or pry bar and try to move the bar near the bushes.  Any movement in the bar usually means bushes are gone.  Strut top, put car on axle stands and get someone to move steering side to side while listening for clunk or looking at strut top for movement.  Do same again with car on ground as it may not clunk unless weight on it.

I had quick look to see if I could see the roll bar bushings. Couldn't get good view, so looked online. Are they bolted to top of sub frame? How do I get to them? Do I have to remove sub frame? Was just going to try give them a pry close to bushes to see if they is any play.

5493 on your picture is the bushes. They mount to subframe. iirc you can acess the bolts without removing subframe but you may need to slacken front subframe bolts and remove rear bolts to get enough room to access.

 

 

As far as hassle goes I'd be doing strut top or at least checking it before doing arb bushes, however, I don't really worry about knocks and clunks.  As long's it passes MOT I'm fine driving it.

On 4/24/2023 at 3:16 PM, Bar72 said:

5493 on your picture is the bushes. They mount to subframe. iirc you can acess the bolts without removing subframe but you may need to slacken front subframe bolts and remove rear bolts to get enough room to access.

 

 

As far as hassle goes I'd be doing strut top or at least checking it before doing arb bushes, however, I don't really worry about knocks and clunks.  As long's it passes MOT I'm fine driving it.

Defo think you might be right about arb bushings. As it does sound like it's coming from under my seat. And your pic looks like I can get to them from above the track ends. Just need a day with bit of time now. Almost every bolt and nut has been rusted to death and most cut n replaced so far. So am hoping enough space.

Thanks. I'll update this thread when done!

To finish this thread I think I found the problem! I didn't have torque specs for collar where knuckle goes on to bottom of the strut. Although it was tight. It wasn't tight enough. I still don't have torque specs or even a torque wrench but Iv tightened it up some more and seems to have made a difference. Where can I get torque specs and I need to invest in a torque wrench 🔧😁

Thanks for the info and help and I still may do arb bushings but I'll be honest, don't look easy to get to front. Think I'll do both front and back arb bushings soon as I got spare time. Sooner the better by the state of the bolts!.

So in summary! When changing struts springs shocks. Make sure collar is up to torque specs.

4 hours ago, Simmo80 said:

Where can I get torque specs and I need to invest in a torque wrench 🔧😁

The Haynes manual has them.

I only have the petrol copy of the Mk2 manual which states 90 Nm (66 ftlb) for "suspension strut to hub carrier" which I believe is the correct one. It's probably the same for the diesel models I expect. This is one of the bolts marked as single use btw (i.e. you're meant to replace the bolt upon refitting due to the torque spec stretching it beyond the point where it fully springs back to original size upon removal and thus each reuse moves it closer to the point where it will snap).

Regarding torque wrenches, I'm very happy with my Lexivon's, and I found that ordering them from Amazon.com was actually significantly cheaper than from Amazon.co.uk. You'll need more than one to cover different torque ranges.