Hi guys.

Save doing multiple threads.

Last night after a 30 mile drive to get coast for a day and then on way back was about 20 miles as I had to stop at a hospital, I waited in car for about 30-40 mins with hazards blinking and my car wouldn't start I had push jump it. Today I had my battery tested at Halfords and it's 78 percent and it's coming up to five year old battery in October. What u guys think about this?.

 

Secondly I'm hearing like air coming from engine on acceleration. If it's idle and I tap the accelerator u can hear like air it's not a turbo car.  As before I was told head gasket gone and after testing had oil cooler changed and getting bit worried now case cylinder head cracked.

Thanks guys

Did you also have the radio, blowers or interior lights on while waiting?  Hazards alone shouldn't really drain a battery that quickly.

Not sure what to suggest for the air noise, probably just a vac leak or exhaust blow.  Need further investigation for that.

Thank u

Had hazards on mostly and sidelights on and off, but I had the radio on car for hour while doing my handbrake and it started. 

I've got battery charger/tester on car now and before charge after I put clamps on runs a little test and says 12.7v, then press no2 for car charging.  Also now noticed all car door locks but the drivers don't open but other 3 doors do, weird. 

I've got forscan maybe that help could find something.

Still looking for the air noise is there a test fot it

Cheers

Weird.  Battery sounds ok.  Might have still been low from doing handbrake if it hadn't been driven much.

Best test for air noise will be your own ears to try and narrow it down a bit more.  Too many possibilities to start testing for it atm.

If the battery is five years old I would change it.

Air noise can only be induction, check all the hoses are tight, air cleaner clean and dry.

Unless you mean the sound is like the exhaust is blowing???

I've run forscan and got

Pcm p1000-70

Ic u1900-20

Gem b2899-OF

What are these any help please

P1000 means the PCM hasn't been tested correctly.  So there may be fault codes on there that aren't shown.

U1900 - CANBUS error.  Hopefully just a glitch but might be the common cluster solder failure.

B2899 - Left indicator failure.  Probably a glitch unless you've got a bulb out.

Thank u for quick replys.

Ive had the cluster re soldered last year cost me 99 pound coz dash went crazy. 

I've checked left indicator that's working front, back and side.

1 minute ago, madman said:

I've checked left indicator that's working front, back and side.

Have any of the bulbs been replaced with an LED type ?

Personally I would consider changing the battery anyway 

After leaving it overnight I've run forscan the B8299 code has gone but there other 2 codes still there. I did have re soldier of my cluster last year. 

For the battery forscan saying 12.2v and my charger/tester says 12.4v on a 60Ah 12v battery, what u guys think good or bad.

Now at 2.15pm forscan 12v charger/tester 12.2v

As for the air goes can still hear it, can u guys give me any ideas where to look. I can see air filter and fat pipe back to throttle body but don't know where else to look.

Thanks guys

 

12.4v is getting closer to replacement than 12.7v.  If you've got a portable jump starter in the car I'd leave it a bit longer personally.  Still think it might just have been low after the handbrake change etc.

My Golf battery went flat back in 2021 when the car was left for a few months, but it still jump starts and runs fine 2 years later.  Recently sent it for MOT and it started fine afterwards and then a week later as well, just from the MOT test to charge it.  (Not using the car currently so don't want to replace the battery yet - become a bit of a test to see how long I can keep the old going with heavy discharges in between jumps lol.)

There isn't much air piping on a non-turbo engine.  Air filter box doesn't matter too much on these, it's the throttle body and plastic manifold where you're likely to find a loose or snapped vac pipe creating an annoying noise.  It's all pretty tight around there though so takes a few minutes to get your eyes around it and pick out any faults.  

3 hours ago, madman said:

For the battery forscan saying 12.2v and my charger/tester says 12.4v on a 60Ah 12v battery, what u guys think good or bad.

Now at 2.15pm forscan 12v charger/tester 12.2v

I personally think your battery should be going to that big scrap heap in the sky 🤣

Unless it makes a sudden recovery and reaches 12.65V after a good 12 hour charge, I'd say it is time to replace it.

On 6/27/2023 at 4:04 PM, madman said:

Thank u for quick replys.

Ive had the cluster re soldered last year cost me 99 pound coz dash went crazy. 

I've checked left indicator that's working front, back and side.

Was the resoldering done by reputable cluster reconditioners?

The solder should be replaced, not reflowed as the lead free weakness would still be there. 
Also as many joints as possible in the cluster should be done, not just the plug pins.

people have reported issues at the resistors at the end of the can bus networks.

just to bear in mind

Sorry, what engine are we talking about.

obviously petrol, 1.4/1.6 or 1.8/2.0 ?

i believe early 1.8/2.0 litre engines can develop issues with swirl flaps in the inlet manifold or their vacuum actuators or switches.

just a thought

 

30 minutes ago, RL123 said:

Also as many joints as possible in the cluster should be done, not just the plug pins.

people have reported issues at the resistors at the end of the can bus networks.

I have to respectfully disagree with that. I've repaired fourty-odd units now, of various different designs, I always visually look over the whole board for problems, and I've only ever found cracked joints on the main wiring connector. I imagine that the wiring plug must be getting pulled on as the vehicle flexes about and this has something to do with why the cracks develop only there.

The cracks always seem to develop towards the ends of the two rows of connector pins. On the models found in the Mk2.5 Focus the high-CAN bus pins (#17 and #18) are at the very end of one of the rows, where the cracks tend to develop and be at their worst. The Middle-CAN bus pins are further-in (#22 and #23). Since the instrument cluster, at least on some models, houses one of the two resistors that connect the pair of wires that make up each CAN bus together, and since these resistors absorb signal reflections, if the CAN bus pins crack on the instrument cluster wiring connector, not only does this cut off the instrument cluster itself from the CAN bus, but impacts all communication on the CAN bus also due to one of the signal-reflection absorbing resistors having been taken out of action. Just as bashing the dash can be a helpful indicator of the cracked solder joint issue being present, measuring 120 ohms of resistance instead of 60 between the high CAN bus wires can also, per the above, since this indicates that only one of the two 120 ohm resistors is connected. Perhaps this is what you were thinking of?

Sorry, I was only repeating a post where the resistor to the board joint was the fault having previously addressed the pin soldering. 
wouldn’t hurt to check all joints while stripped down. 

in our case, a capacitor on the other end of the board had gone down and was replaced at the same time. Found by a full bench test I assume.