Hello, I just bought a used Ford Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0L 2014, but I'm having a problem, when the engine is warm/hot then I turn off the engine, and I want to restart it, so I have trouble doing a long starter/long cranking. But no DTC Found. Engine temperature between 86-89 condition ac is on. However, if the engine is cold / in the morning, the engine is very easy to start.

 

I've been to almost 10 workshops but haven't found the problem.

Some of what I have done is as follows:

1. Replacing the Fuelpump

2. Replacing the Ignition Coil

3. Replacing the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor

4. Changing Oil

5. Replaced the ECT sensor and fan resistor

6. Adding Grounding 7 points

7. Replacing Battery

 

Some workshops say they have to get off the engine and replace the head gasket, some say they have to top the timing.

 

The engine compression has been checked to be at 150psi for all three cylinders, and the timing advance is between 1-2 degrees at idle.

Thanks in advance, I hope someone can help with the problem I'm having.

 

Best Regards.

Has the starter motor itself been tested?  The resistance in the windings increases with heat which can make them spin slightly slower than cold, even if you can't hear a difference.  I'd also recommend checking or replacing the thick positive cable between the battery and the starter as that may be frayed at the ends and unable to carry full capacity when warm.

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Has the starter motor itself been tested?  The resistance in the windings increases with heat which can make them spin slightly slower than cold, even if you can't hear a difference.  I'd also recommend checking or replacing the thick positive cable between the battery and the starter as that may be frayed at the ends and unable to carry full capacity when warm.

Not yet, how do I test the starter motor? do i have to buy new one or maybe you have another way? 
Thank you for your reply by the way 

1 minute ago, Ibrahimnrdn said:

Not yet, how do I test the starter motor? do i have to buy new one or maybe you have another way? 
Thank you for your reply by the way 

Starters can be tested but not easily at home.  Would probably have to take it to an electronics refurbishment shop where they can do an amp load test while still fitted to the car and/or test the resistance of the windings when disconnected.

Starters are a bit expensive to just replace without confirming they're faulty first.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Starters can be tested but not easily at home.  Would probably have to take it to an electronics refurbishment shop where they can do an amp load test while still fitted to the car and/or test the resistance of the windings when disconnected.

Starters are a bit expensive to just replace without confirming they're faulty first.

Okay ill try later, anyway how about timing advance 1-2 degree when idle, is it normal? I have a suspicion there, because I see it looks like the timing cover has been dismantled before.

I'm not sure what the advance should be.  Do you know if the timing belt has been replaced?  They're recommended at 10 years old or 100k miles so will be needed soon if not already done. 

When I checked the ckp sensor, I found that the ckp sensor had been eaten by the crankshaft pulley because there was no air gap between the sensor and the pulley, then I tried to buy a new ckp sensor but the new sensor was eroded by the pulley again, I thought something might have gone wrong during disassembly by the previous owner, as follows I attach the photo. Is it possible because of this?

There should be a washer fitted behind the crank pulley.  I reckon someone has removed it before and not refitted the washer.

The rubber in the pulley can break down and allow it to wobble, but I can't see any signs of that in the picture.

The pulley bolt is incredibly tight from the factory.  So if it's been removed and then tightened correctly, you'll never loosen it off with basic tools.  But you might be in luck if they didn't tighten it properly...

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

There should be a washer fitted behind the crank pulley.  I reckon someone has removed it before and not refitted the washer.

The rubber in the pulley can break down and allow it to wobble, but I can't see any signs of that in the picture.

The pulley bolt is incredibly tight from the factory.  So if it's been removed and then tightened correctly, you'll never loosen it off with basic tools.  But you might be in luck if they didn't tighten it properly...

What is washer fitted? what do you mean by ring spacer behind the crankshaft pulley?

3 minutes ago, Ibrahimnrdn said:

What is washer fitted? what do you mean by ring spacer behind the crankshaft pulley?

6378 on diagram.

6 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

6378 on diagram.

 

Yes, that's right, my suspicions were there, but I had trouble finding that part in Indonesia. It took 3-4 months to order it. I was wondering if I could grind the ckp sensor to provide a air gap between the sensor and the pulley. And is this related to my main problem which is long cranking when engine warm?

Anyway thank you for fast reply and share Tom, i really apreciate.

6 minutes ago, Ibrahimnrdn said:

Yes, that's right, my suspicions were there, but I had trouble finding that part in Indonesia. It took 3-4 months to order it. I was wondering if I could grind the ckp sensor to provide a air gap between the sensor and the pulley. And is this related to my main problem which is long cranking when engine warm?

Ah, I didn't realise you weren't in the UK.

I wouldn't normally recommend grinding a sensor but parts are readily available over here.  If that's the only option you've got then I can't really tell you not to do it.

I'm surprised you don't have more faults with a damaged CKP sensor, but that could be the cause of the slow crank.

I can post you a couple of 6378 washers for under £20 (GBP) if that's any help.  Should arrive in less than 2 weeks.

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Ah, I didn't realise you weren't in the UK.

I wouldn't normally recommend grinding a sensor but parts are readily available over here.  If that's the only option you've got then I can't really tell you not to do it.

I'm surprised you don't have more faults with a damaged CKP sensor, but that could be the cause of the slow crank.

I can post you a couple of 6378 washers for under £20 (GBP) if that's any help.  Should arrive in less than 2 weeks.

Can it be confirmed because that's what makes there no air gap?
How can i order?

is the part code 6378? because what I got the info here is 6700 like in the picture

2 minutes ago, Ibrahimnrdn said:

Can it be confirmed because that's what makes there no air gap?
How can i order?

You'll need to remove the crank pulley to check whether the washer is missing or not.

The part number is 1870533 if you want to see whether there are any locally.

Genuine Ford 1.0 EcoBoost Crankshaft Pulley Washer Spacer 2018- 1870533 | eBay

 

If you still can't find any and want me to post one or two.  Send me a private message on here.  You can pay via PayPal or bank transfer.

28 minutes ago, Ibrahimnrdn said:

is the part code 6378? because what I got the info here is 6700 like in the picture

6700 is the rubber oil seal.  That is not the part you need.

13 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

6700 is the rubber oil seal.  That is not the part you need.

That's right, I made a mistake. Is this washing spacer 2018 ecoboost the same as my 2014 ecoboost?

6 minutes ago, Ibrahimnrdn said:

Is this washing spacer 2018 ecoboost the same as my 2014 ecoboost?

Yes, as far as I can tell it is the same part right back to 2012.

8 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, as far as I can tell it is the same part right back to 2012.

Ok thanks a lot Tom, I'll ask for your help if I can't find it here.

 

And I still hope for suggestions from others regarding my problem above, thanks all.

Here I also attach a video comparison between the sound of my ecoboost engine and the others.

 

 

What I want to ask is why in videos 1 and 2 the sound of the engine sounds like it is very fast, whereas on my ecoboost engine (video 3) the sound of the engine rotation seems weaker, does this have any effect?