Hi all, new to this forum so just to give a bit of background info;

Vehicle in question is a 70 plate 2021 transit custom I’m a level 3 qualified IMI mechanic. I work outside of the industry however do work most weekends on cars on the side, mainly for friends and family. over 6 years experience, mainly specializing in vauxhalls however have worked on a broad range. I’ve replaced 100’s of brakes over time and have bled more.

This transit came to me as it’s my father in law. Essentially, brake wear light came on, wanted new pads and discs. Checked discs slightly worn and pitted but nothing major. Advised new pads + discs. Not enough money for discs so went with just pads.

Long story short did front pads fine and pushed pistons in fine.

Got to backs, started on nearside, pads were almost metal to metal. Cleaned up greased shims etc went to push piston in with rewind tool for backs and it was stiff as a c***. Took a while but got it rewound.

Got to the offside rear last one and the piston was just jammed. Used rewind tool both ways (left and right) but then under closer inspection it seemed the piston itself was leaking brake fluid.

Got new caliper installed it but obviously the brakes needed to be bled starting with the caliper I had just replaced. Got the fluid pumping into caliper and then bled it until there was no air.

Then went to n/s/r (no air bubbles) n/s/f (no air bubbles) and lastly o/s/f which had a bit of air in.

Reassembled, tested brakes but spongey and going to floor as if air is still in it. None of the calipers had any air left in them. Next thought was to look at bleeding the master cylinder, but then I remembered that Ford decided to make it more difficult to bleed brakes from the abs mod, and from what I can remember these can only be bled by using forscan.

So just wanting some advice going forward here - should I try bleeding the master and then re-bleed the brakes as lines will be compromised, or do I try see if I can get forscan software and use their bleeding feature?

TIA :)

Just get Forscan to perform a service bleed.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Just get Forscan to perform a service bleed.

thanks, where is the best place to get forscan obd and the software?

 

3 minutes ago, joeyb01 said:

thanks, where is the best place to get forscan obd and the software?

The software is available on the Forscan website. Download FORScan

The adapter depends on which device you're using.  Forscan now recommend the VGate V-Linker adapters.  Either FS for a wired Windows laptop or FD for an Android.  Generally cheapest on Amazon at the moment.  I wouldn't recommend buying any from eBay unless you're 100% sure they're genuine.

4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

The software is available on the Forscan website. Download FORScan

The adapter depends on which device you're using.  Forscan now recommend the VGate V-Linker adapters.  Either FS for a wired Windows laptop or FD for an Android.  Generally cheapest on Amazon at the moment.  I wouldn't recommend buying any from eBay unless you're 100% sure they're genuine.

thanks so much for your help. Do you think the service bleed should do it, even if there is air in the master cyl? I won't buy from ebay. 

Trying to get my old laptop back up and running atm, do you know if there is an option however for IOS if I cannot get the laptop up?

1 minute ago, joeyb01 said:

thanks so much for your help. Do you think the service bleed should do it, even if there is air in the master cyl? I won't buy from ebay. 

Trying to get my old laptop back up and running atm, do you know if there is an option however for IOS if I cannot get the laptop up?

There shouldn't be an any air in the MC as long as the level was kept above minimum when you were bleeding the calipers.

The VLinker VD+ is suitable for IOS.

Just now, TomsFocus said:

There shouldn't be an any air in the MC as long as the level was kept above minimum when you were bleeding the calipers.

The VLinker VD+ is suitable for IOS.

Ah right then, so chances are there is just air in the ABS Mod?

we kept eye on fluid never got below min mark but was still bubbling after we had bled

Just now, joeyb01 said:

Ah right then, so chances are there is just air in the ABS Mod?

we kept eye on fluid never got below min mark but was still bubbling after we had bled

Bubbling in the reservoir as you release the pedal?  If so, worth double checking the res hasn't got knocked and sucking in air between the MC & res.  There's no harm in bleeding the MC if you can see bubbles in the res.  99% of the time, this sort of problem is caused by air in the ABS pump though.

6 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Bubbling in the reservoir as you release the pedal?  If so, worth double checking the res hasn't got knocked and sucking in air between the MC & res.  There's no harm in bleeding the MC if you can see bubbles in the res.  99% of the time, this sort of problem is caused by air in the ABS pump though.

No not bubbling when releasing pedal (to my knowledge) bubbling when topping up fluid.

32 minutes ago, joeyb01 said:

No not bubbling when releasing pedal (to my knowledge) bubbling when topping up fluid.

Ok, that's probably just from the action of pouring the fluid then.  Any air in the res should immediately rise to the top so not a concern. 

We're at risk of over-thinking this now so I'm going to stick with air in ABS pump & service bleed required unless you can provide any evidence against that.

hi @TomsFocus

So ordered F-link and downloaded Forscan free 2 mo trial.

Took a while to configure it but got there - started the ABS Service Bleed, got to 1 % but then kept coming up with "service procedure has been interrupted" .

I tried everything including searching the forscan forum. Nothing. Still happening. I did email forscan with the error log, not heard anything back as yet but saw people on forum mention that they respond mainly to paid members.

I am happy to pay for the year license but would like it to work first! I can't access their forum and post myself as don't have the forum invite code which you only get if you paid.

So am none the wiser really. any thoughts/ideas

 

also, is it normal if there's air in system that the 'low brake fluid' warning keeps coming back on? The system is full but keeps coming up.

 

Cheers.

Going back to your original post, you said the brakes were spongy, as the discs were not changed maybe the spongy brakes are due to the pads not sitting flush with the discs. Maybe a few good hards stops to bed the pads in may do the trick. Obviously be carefull on the road doing it . Also have you got the rear pads located correctly in the piston. I've seen quite a few where people wind the piston back and think the piston  cut out for the pads should be vertical to the caliper when in fact it's offset a bit. That really gives crappy braking /spongeyness. There is a marking on the caliper where the piston should line up.