Hi all,

I have a Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI 2008 Titanium. 
Always have to keep charging it as battery runs flat overnight. 

internal lights always seem to turn off when car is locked though the Orange LED odometer panel on the cluster always stays on overnight. 

Anyway, I’ve run the multimeter with engine on, no utilities on and reads a steady 14.23 / 14.24 volts.  However, when I put everything on, I.e a/c, fan full blast, both heated seats up max, front and rear heated windscreens, all lights the voltage is consistent at either 12.84 or 12.85 only. I understand minimum consistent voltage should be 13.5. Did a further test between battery negative and metal on engine to test ground and getting between 1.15 and 1.2 ohms. 
 

I’m thinking it is the alternator, battery is about a month old. 
 

Any ideas please? 
 

Thanks

First check I'd do is disconnect the battery overnight or longer. Check it doesn't go flat of its own accord. Assuming it doesn't, then something's draining it when the car's sitting.  

3 hours ago, Mrktn said:

the Orange LED odometer panel on the cluster always stays on overnight. 

Look no further, that's the problem. It should time-out after 20 minutes and the whole of the cars Canbus network should enter sleep mode.

So the question is why is the Canbus not going to sleep. What is keeping it awake ?

The number one common fault is the Bluetooth module if, your car has Bluetooth. The module is located behind the glovebox and can be easily disconnected.

The second most common fault to cause the Canbus network to stay active is the instrument cluster. On your model there is a problem with the solder joints on the IC cracking and causing intermittent faults which constantly triggers the Canbus network keeping the system alive.

That ground resistance figure can't be right. A current of 12 to 13 Amps would drop the whole battery voltage. The headlights, sidelights, rear lights and number plate lamp will take about 14 Amps.

You probably didn't get a good connection with your meter and you need to check again. Try measuring the voltage drop between battery negative and chassis with those lights on then you can calculate a more accurate figure.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

I will re-test with the multimeter.  Is the orange LED likely to cause such a drain overnight?  I know the ambient temperature is unlikely to help this time of year either.

1 hour ago, Mrktn said:

 Is the orange LED likely to cause such a drain overnight?

I might have originally miss understood your first post. I thought you were talking about the whole orange centre message display with the mileage etc. on it.

Are you only talking about one single LED ?

Can you post a photo of the instrument cluster so we can be sure of what is being talked about please?

51 minutes ago, unofix said:

I might have originally miss understood your first post. I thought you were talking about the whole orange centre message display with the mileage etc. on it.

Are you only talking about one single LED ?

Can you post a photo of the instrument cluster so we can be sure of what is being talked about please?

You were correct in your first post. It’s the whole vertical rectangle which has the odometer, temperature, miles remaining until empty tank etc.

Thanks for confirming that.

Then until that problem and the reason for it is fixed you will constantly suffer from a flat battery.

The year of your vehicle and the type of instrument cluster you have would strongly lead me to think that the IC is suffering from the common dry solder joint issue. I would recommend getting the instrument cluster repaired/refurbished as soon as possible. There are many companies who specialise in this procedure advertising on eBay including @rd457.

Thanks. I forgot to mention my car has the Blaupunkt Travelpilot FX audio unit and have read a common fix is to disconnect it as this may keep the ECU powered on and result in the orange light and prevent the can-bus from powering off, resulting in battery drain.

May give that a try and see if it makes a difference. The audio unit hasn’t worked for two weeks and this coincides with the start of the orange light of doom. 
 

if this sorts it, I’ll get a replacement unit. It’s a good unit - bought a map update for it - the final ever update which is 2022 and when it works, the satnav is spot on and gets minimum of 8 satellites.

 

 

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Thanks for confirming that.

Then until that problem and the reason for it is fixed you will constantly suffer from a flat battery.

The year of your vehicle and the type of instrument cluster you have would strongly lead me to think that the IC is suffering from the common dry solder joint issue. I would recommend getting the instrument cluster repaired/refurbished as soon as possible. There are many companies who specialise in this procedure advertising on eBay including @rd457.

Thanks, I’ll check it out 🙂

If unplugging the radio does not fix it, I'm happy to take a look at your cluster: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915

Well I removed the console trim today unscrewed and disconnected the audio unit, charged battery, took it out for an 10 mile run to charge further and the Orange odometer LED panel now goes off after 10/15 minutes.

Will know more when I get up tomorrow and fire her up.

 

1 hour ago, Mrktn said:

disconnected the audio unit,

So it could just be a faulty Bluetooth module which are an easy fix. loads for sale on eBay for around £20