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How to program a new TCM?

Featured Replies

Hello all

I've got my hands on a refurbished complete valve body/mechatronics for a Powershift gearbox but it needs initial programming 

 

Apparently I need to read the code from the old TCM and write to the new one? I suspect this can only be done with IDS or similar? Can anyone tell me about this?



Why are you changing this?

What are your issues?

 

  • Author
25 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

Why are you changing this?

What are your issues?

 

Random issues with solenoid D & E.

Had it apart and cleaned up existing unit but didn't help.

No broken plastic or metal in the oil.

Shifts fairly nicely when changing gears manually (in Sport mode)

Have you tested the solenoids or guessing they are faulty?

My thoughts are broken comms wires in the main connector in the LH front wheel arch, the wires corrode and or break

  • Author

That's a possibility. But I'm routinely getting solenoid D faults. Had each out in turn and cleaned/tested=demagnetised but still playing up 

 

Check the wiring for faults before you spend any more money

  • Author
1 hour ago, DaveT70 said:

Check the wiring for faults before you spend any more money

Fair point. I will give it a try!

As I understand it the round  connector to the gearbox is CAN+/- two +ve12v and a negative?

 

Are they the ones to check?

No, the multi-block connector in the LH front wheel arch, the wires are tight, plus moisture can get in and corrode wires, check continuity from there to gearbox and there back to TCM

  • Author
25 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

No, the multi-block connector in the LH front wheel arch, the wires are tight, plus moisture can get in and corrode wires, check continuity from there to gearbox and there back to TCM

Thanks for the tip I'll take a look, not noticed that. Thanks!

  • Author
42 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

No, the multi-block connector in the LH front wheel arch, the wires are tight, plus moisture can get in and corrode wires, check continuity from there to gearbox and there back to TCM

I don't suppose you'd be able to point me in the direction of a picture that shows what I'm looking for?... (it helps if I can visualise the item)

30 minutes ago, Meekoblue said:

I don't suppose you'd be able to point me in the direction of a picture that shows what I'm looking for?... (it helps if I can visualise the item)

When you take the LH front wheel arch liner off, you'll see a large white/grey connector block on the chassis rail, it's the only one, you can't miss it. Check condition of the wires coming in and out of the blocks, then continuity to the TCM and the transmission.

A lot of faults on powershifts are caused by poor comms, check the wiring first before you throw parts at the transmission

  • Author

Thank you so much! Will have a look tomorrow.

  • Author

Quick follow up.

I had a valvebody on order that arrived needing programming.

I decided to swap the electronics over and fit the new valvebody & solenoids with the old mechatronics  & electronics. Mistake. Still stuck solenoid D (and sometimes E) but also doesn't seem to recognise gear selector lever position (position sensor connected correctly etc) so either an electrical/wiring fault or I've broken the ribbon cable to the range position sensor wheel.

 

Instead of messing further I'll take wheel off Monday afternoon and check wiring. 

Also had an idea, in Forscan there is module reprogramming, there is an option for Recovery, and wondered if the would force load code to a new TCM?

  • 2 years later...

Hi Meekoblue

How did you get on with your repair, was it the wiring in the end?

On 12/12/2023 at 2:32 PM, DaveT70 said:

Check the wiring for faults before you spend any more money

DaveT70, these are wise words which I hope to follow.

I have a multimeter and ambition, how do I check continuity?

My issues is an intermittent "Transmission Limited Function" warning with an error code of "P284B - Shift Fork 'C' Stuck", which clears after a restart. Other than during the limited function the car drives perfectly fine. I ran a trace on all the pressure control solenoids, both Desired and Measured, see attached, but there were no noticeable deviations.

I subsequently did a TCM Module Reboot, TCM Clutch System Learn, and TCM Shift Fork System Learn through ForScan. But the alarm appeared again. I pulled over, restarted, and carried on. Ford then updated the firmware on both the ECU and TCM but the alarm appeared again. I pulled over, restarted, and carried on.

So, with regard to checking for continuity, what am I looking for, zero resistance or should I expect there to be some small amount. Is a continuity check enough or would I need to do a load test?

Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated, by both me and my wallet, ahead of getting my head under the wheel arch.

1000062486.jpg

1000062465.jpg

14 hours ago, SMaxi said:

So, with regard to checking for continuity, what am I looking for, zero resistance or should I expect there to be some small amount. Is a continuity check enough or would I need to do a load test?

I'm not an auto electrician so I haven't got a clue, unfortunately.

But if the coms signals aren't getting through quickly enough that's what causes the issues

16 hours ago, SMaxi said:

So, with regard to checking for continuity, what am I looking for, zero resistance or should I expect there to be some small amount. Is a continuity check enough or would I need to do a load test?

Using a digital multimeter first short the meter leads together and see what the resistance of the leads is. Normally 0.3 Ohm's or less.

Now do the continuity check on the wires, expect a resistance of 0.6 Ohm's or less, including the resistance of the meter leads.

It's a real pity SY Diagnostics You Tube channel was deleted as he had a video showing the exact issue under the wheelarch..
Yes to testing continuity initially then load test from PCM to gearbox socket  as this confirms the cable's ability to carry the current  without a voltage drop due to resistance (with the plugs disconnected to protect the electronics of course)
He found one wire where the wire just pulled out from the connector and fixed it by bypassing the connector block with a link wire (alternative is v. expensive loom change?)

I'd also ask the history of oil and filter (rip it apart to inspect for bits  - should be just "grey paste" look) changes for any Powershift issue and to just do it if it hasn't been done or you don't have any record.
 

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