Issues with Fiesta LX 1.25 2004

[elsk]

Hi everyone having few issues with the car that i was hoping some more experienced people could help with.

Some info to start cars got 141k on the clock, car when i first got year ago used to rev at 700-800, now revs high at about 1300 sometimes even 1500, loosing coolant with no obvious leak or coolant in oil and terrible fuel consumption.

To begin with issue ive had past few months EAC fail, ive read a lot about this recently from other people who have had this issue however it seems my issue is slightly different from other posts Ive read. The EAC fail issue only occurs when reversing other than one occasion where it happened at a traffic light everytime this issue has occured has been when reversing. I.e go to the shop need to turn round on tight spot so do 3 point turn then when reversing cars starts revving like crazy and between 1500-2000 revs without touching accelerator. Aswell this issue doesnt occur everytime when reversing maybe every 1 out of 5 times. When this happens I turn the car off, try to start it cranks over without starting, stop again leave it for a minute then starts as normal on the second time.

The EAC issue for months never shown any check engine lights until last week plugged OBD scanner in and its got 3 faults:

P2108 throttle actuator control - performance problem

P2176 throttle actuator control - idle position not learned

P0030 heated oxygen sensor sensor 1, bank 1 heater control - circuit malfunction.

The p0030 issue popped up about 2 months ago and online it said could be an error and to try clear the code and see if it came back but it never until now where its come back alongside the other 2 codes.

When i said at the start terrible fuel consumption i mean really bad paying 1.42 pence a litre on petrol put 20 quid in and at around 70 miles the petrol light comes on and at 75-85 miles the petrol bar on the dash is completely empty if my maths correct im getting about 12mpg ud think im driving a high litre v8 😂. I dont rag the car about either city driving I'm doing about 2k revs max and driving 5th gear pretty much all the time. Petrol smell from the exhaust which suggested to me car was running rich backed up by OBD data earlier from the O2 bank 1 sensor where online it says the higher the voltage the richer the fuel mixture which was at 0.9V most the time.

To add to my long list of problems the rad fan keeps coming on mid driving and when I turn the car off which would suggest overheating but the temp gauge on the car is consistently in the middle and OBD shown a max coolant temp of 105 celcius and about 95 on average, noticed a hissing noise earlier from engine bay after the rad fan came off which i initially thought was a leak but almost certain was coming from the coolant cap so i made sure to screw that on tighter.

Well a lot of you are probably thinking scrap it I dont have the money for a new car at the minute just renewed the insurance for another year about 2 months ago as a new driver most other cars the insurance prices were absolutely shocking and they are decent on this car so would like to keep this till current years insurance is finished where ill have 2 years NCD then can look for something new.

Anyone with more mechanical know how than me could you suggest roughly how much repairs are going to cost or if they're even worth doing if its going to cost stupid money. Any information greatly appreciated especially with the EAC fail as like ive said havent read anything where people have only had the issue in reverse gear. Thanks.

If youd like any of the live obd data ill post screenshots of it tomorrow just let me know what youd like to see.

 

[unofix]

49 minutes ago, elsk said:

Some info to start cars got 141k on the clock, car when i first got year ago used to rev at 700-800, now revs high at about 1300 sometimes even 1500, loosing coolant with no obvious leak or coolant in oil and terrible fuel consumption.

Head gasket has most likely failed. The cooling system is getting pressurised by the cylinder head leak and the coolant is being vented via the expansion tank safety filler cap.

[elsk]

40 minutes ago, unofix said:

Head gasket has most likely failed. The cooling system is getting pressurised by the cylinder head leak and the coolant is being vented via the expansion tank safety filler cap.

When I fill the coolant I fill it to between the min and max line after a week or so i notice it goes down to just slightly below min line where it stays like that. Thats when cold though i notice after driving it and its heated up it goes back to between min and max so does that still sound like head gasket. Sorry I don't know loads about cars trying to learn more so any info appreciated or if you could link me to any websites with more info. I thought symptoms of bad head gasket was foamy oil where coolant has mixed in with oil and or white smoke pluming out exhaust when idling. oil looks good and little to no white smoke from exhaust.

[unofix]

2 minutes ago, elsk said:

Thats when cold though i notice after driving it and its heated up it goes back to between min and max so does that still sound like head gasket

That sounds quite normal, so you aren't loosing coolant and you don't have a leak.

If you want to test to see if there is a HG leak then I would use a Hydro Carbon test kit and check for exhaust gases in the coolant. For example like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RELD-Cylinder-Combusion-Universal-Motorcycles/dp/B07RS3N98V/ref=asc_df_B07RS3N98V/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344362092444&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10773053213949380900&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046792&hvtargid=pla-762509523541&psc=1&mcid=f3c9d9a1bc5739ecb4308e08b8e40b98

[elsk]

4 minutes ago, unofix said:

That sounds quite normal, so you aren't loosing coolant and you don't have a leak.

If you want to test to see if there is a HG leak then I would use a Hydro Carbon test kit and check for exhaust gases in the coolant. For example like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RELD-Cylinder-Combusion-Universal-Motorcycles/dp/B07RS3N98V/ref=asc_df_B07RS3N98V/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344362092444&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10773053213949380900&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046792&hvtargid=pla-762509523541&psc=1&mcid=f3c9d9a1bc5739ecb4308e08b8e40b98

Oh thats alright then was just wondering why after filling to between min and max when cold 2 weeks later it was below minimum when cold. Few times this has happened now. Does go back up after heating up though.

Ill order that tomorrow so do you just fill that slightly with the fluid and hold by the exhaust?

Would faulty head gasket explain why my fuel mileage is so shockingly bad or would that be something to do with the dodgy o2 sensor as ive heard most people with the 1.25 fiesta are getting around 30mpg city driving on average well ive consistently getting 12mpg.

[elsk]

1 minute ago, elsk said:

Ill order that tomorrow so do you just fill that slightly with the fluid and hold by the exhaust?

Ignore that just seen on the amazon listing you put into coolant resovoir

[unofix]

2 minutes ago, elsk said:

so do you just fill that slightly with the fluid and hold by the exhaust?

NO !!!

You use fit it to the expansion tank. Read the enclosed instructions before use 👍

[unofix]

Just now, elsk said:

put into coolant resovoir

NO !!!!

Please read the full instructions when you get the kit. Do not pour anything in to the cooling system.

[elsk]

35 minutes ago, unofix said:

NO !!!!

Please read the full instructions when you get the kit. Do not pour anything in to the cooling system.

No dont worry i didnt mean pour anything into the resovoir i meant the little plastic thing you get with it says fill with 2ml of liquid which you fit into the resovoir I didnt word that very well haha.

[Dan62]

Your idling symptoms are of an inlet manifold vacuum leak. 
The usual suspect is the crankcase breather hose Ford P/N 1761516 which splits.
It sits behind the inlet manifold but can be changed fairly easily if you have small hands.
Have attached some pics, Red indicates the hose at either end and the items marked Green can be easily removed to give access.

Disconnect the battery before replacing the pipe, this will reset the PCM's learnt values for the throttle body as well as being good practice.