I'll look into p08ao, p082f and p082c later on my break. 

Forgot to mention it I had as well abs pcm communication fault. 

On 12/20/2023 at 3:22 PM, gds1972 said:

P08a0, p082f, p082c haynes saying mainly automatic transmission. Is yours automatic or PCM from automatic? MLPS sensor wired to BCM/BCU. 

 

That's what wiring I found for p082f

3 hours ago, Zen23 said:

Forgot to mention it I had as well abs pcm communication fault. 

Yes i get that all the time I think that happens as a result of the other codes, probably telling the ABS module to disregard the PCM readings rather than there being any issue.

3 hours ago, Zen23 said:

 

Well this is the thing, mine isn't automatic it's the 6 speed manual, but there is a gear lever position sensor on the surface of the gearbox, I think I put a labelled photo of it earlier on in this thread. It goes to the PCM but I cannot find any info about what it's function is or how I can monitor it's output.

How many wires coming out of that sensor and what colour?

It's a 4-wire sensor, I will have to take it off again to be able to check the colour but I can probably do that over the next day or two

That's could be it. Goes to PCM

2 hours ago, Zen23 said:

That's could be it. Goes to PCM

Yes looks like it might be - now just need to work out how to test it - I purchased the autofix thing for my car on haynes after seeing the stuff you posted - do you know what this component was called on autofix when you searched?

 

Click on electrics, choose engine, choose if you have start stop, click view electric system. 

Have you got link how to download "as build" file? 

Yes you can download it from the Ford Motorcraft website. Do you want the link or are you asking me whether I know where to get it?

Could you send a link please.

That's what I get.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt

this topic might also be of interest to others

 

Some, rather surprising, updates to this issue. Apologies for the extensive post.

Having begun investigating some of the wiring as suggested by members on this forum, I came across a few harnesses which seemed to lead to nowhere, and didn't appear to be original to the car. Further investigation revealed some unexpected findings.... Firstly, a siren, then, some blue lights.....

So it turns out the car was, in its previous life, a police car! There is some irony in the fact that I am a paramedic by trade.

There was an insane amount of additional wiring on the car that should not be there. The worst thing is that they have spliced into some of the harnesses in the car. 

I took the approach of stripping the internals of the car completely, removing every single unnecesary wire (as you can see from the photos - quite a lot! I checked all the ford harnesses which had been spliced into for continuity and removed the 'spliced' wire from them, then re-insulated the original wires.

Amongst other things, I removed a disconnected run-lock module (used by emergency services to leave engine on with key out), and a GPS & GSM communications module (police not ford), some antennae mounted in the roof. I removed all the seats, the boot, the roof lining, the dashboard, the internal fuse/connector module in passenger footwell, the stereo, the centre console, the carpets, absolutely everything. 

I took out everything that wasn't supposed to be there. There were large harnesses running the length of the car to the boot area. I then removed the front bumper and from the engine bay took out a siren, plus two additional harnesses, one which went to the battery and main earthing point (a power supply harness to the rear of the car where presumably the police modules were), and another harness which went to what presumably was the grille blue lights and the siren. These entered through the firewall via grommets so I cut the harnesses inside the car, then pulled them through, and sealed up the holes in the firewall.

Whilst doing all this, I took the time to call ford parts and double check the wiring harnesses codes present under the bonnet. The one which was installed in my car, was, according to Ford, not compatible with the engine/car, and they said it should actually have a KV4T-12C508-MZA.

Given the amount of splicing into things, and the fact that a second-hand engine harness replacement was £90, I went ahead and purchased one of the correct part numbers, and installed it. All of the connectors were identical, fitting perfectly, and as far as I noticed, the wiring colours too. 

In doing all of this work, I did notice that there was a moderate oil leak from around the turbo, which, if the wiring changes turn out to be fruitless, might be worth my investigating given that the codes I was getting were mostly (but not solely) airflow related. There was also a slight oily residue in the pipework to the intercooler as well, although not a huge amount much and it wiped off easily.

From here, my thoughts are

• If the change in wiring harness results in either a change or resolution of my issues, then this indicates I am onto something with the harness.
• If the changes made have no effect on my issues, then this indicates the harness was not the cause, and I will have been able to exclude the PCM, and the harness from my possibilities.

So, as of today, the car has had all unnecesary wires removed and any previous splicing insulated and tested, all grounding points inspected and tested for continuity, a replacement engine harness, and has been put back together again.

When I first went to start it I got nothing, nothing on the dash, did a bit of digging and realised that I hadn't seated the IPC connector fully in the passenger footwell module. After this all good!

I am also immensely more familiar with almost all of the internal parts of the car and the engine bay!

And finally, I am exhausted from working on the thing - a few days of (actual) work ahead for me where I will rest and recover before I have a chance to test it properly, I have checked it drives around the local roads fine but I haven't the energy right now to test it in case I find out it hasn't sorted the issues 🤣.

Photos attached.

 

I wasn't expecting it! Ex police car! 

It a massive job you done. Not many people I would think attempted to do it. 

I wasn't expecting it either - what a nightmare haha! I just couldn't believe the sheer amount of additional wiring I pulled out of the thing. It was quite a process chasing everything to work out if it was supposed to be there or not - I managed to only cut through one wire I wasn't supposed to (FM aerial Coax) during the process. I repaired it before putting everything back.

I thought I may as well give it a go not much to loose - learned a huge amount in the process as well. The Haynes manual was quite helpful as well for a bit of guidance here and there.

The crankshaft position sensor connector is a bit loose (the connector on the replacement loom wasn't great), and the car took a little bit of turning over to start so I might double check that or replace it depending on how I feel.

I am looking forwards to being able to give the car a try under the fault-producing conditions later on this week. If it's sorted I will be absolutely chuffed with myself, if not i'll have to drown my sorrows and push on to the next steps.

It was also 'useful' in that I explored enough of the engine bay to identify the moderate oil leak around of the area of the turbo, whether this turns out to be significant or not only time will tell. Replacing the turbo on this car looks a bit of a pain as access is very limited so I am hopeful that I don't end up doing that...

 

 

So this morning I set about testing things. The car was starting rough and every couple of starts i'd get the crankshaft position sensor code, so I examined the wiring to the crankshaft position sensor and removed the sensor to give it a clean. I found that one of the pins in the connector was not seated properly, and was more recessed than it should have been. I re-set the pins in the connector and re-installed it.

Car started fine after that.

I then took it for a test drive, I was nervous at first as had put so much time into it last week. Previously, my fault was appearing at >50mph, under load, warm engine. I took it easy at first and then started replicating the driving fault conditions, I have to admit I was petrified of the light returning and limp mode, but... nothing...

I drove it up and down a local dual carriageway (which was readily able to produce the faults before), and in an hour of driving under all sorts of conditions I did not manage to get the engine light on or any codes at all. ForSCAN live monitoring showed nothing abnormal. The car drove perfectly.

I have to say that I am absolutely delighted. Of course, only time will tell for sure over the next weeks & months if this is the last I will hear of my issues, but for now, it seems to be sorted.

I will never know if it was a faulty engine harness (although I suspect this was the issue), or any of the insane amount of additional police wiring that I removed from the motor. It still has some blue lights in it but they are all disconnected now and terminated properly. I did crack one of the plastic terminals on the starter motor during the process of installing the new harness, but it works fine for now - I will look to replace it at a later date (haynes has a good guide for that doesn't look bad).

I'll do a shorter 'summary' post later on to act as an easier reference for anyone reading this long-ish thread later for their own issues.

 

I really appreciate the help and advice from people on here and also the KugaOwnersClub too, it has been so valuable. Looking forwards to enjoying my (her 🙄) new kuga!

You done a great job.

When I fixed issue on mine that warning sound and message on the display given a nerves tick now like when fuel low or door open. 🫣

It takes awhile to recover I think from that warning sound. 

Did this issue get resolved having similar running issues thank 

In my case no issues so far. 

A fascinating thread and I congratulate you Sam, for your perseverance 👍. Your experience and the progressive documentation has been immensely useful. I feel your pain!

I have a 2009 S-max TDCI Auto on 140k and your thread came up when I searched for "ford 2.0 tdci limp mode" on t'interweb. In spite of being a different model, different age & miles, different transmission, the faults you describe make sense!! 😳

Like your problem, it happens at steady speed once the engine is warm. When it first happened, it tripped out after about 50 miles but was steady speed (often on cruise control) around 70mph. Then drove 150 miles without incident. The problem has got progressively worse and can now trip out after 6 or 7 miles. A full stop, lever into P and a restart and the car sets off again with full power. For that reason, I was sure it would be a sensor fault rather than a failed mechanical component. Took car to my preferred garage and they read codes and (obviously...) the fault didn't happen for them. Based on their hunch and codes showing, I've already forked out for a replacement manifold throttle body which although made pick-up cleaner, made no difference to the main problem of the car tripping into limp mode.

Other things mentioned were the intercooler pipe and the crankshaft speed sensor.

Based on your extensive investigation and elimination of so many other things, I'm going to ask them to replace the crankshaft speed sensor and see what happens...

Thank you again and I'll report back.