Hi,

I have a 2000 Ford Fiesta MK4 1.3L engine. It is just the basic model and doesn't have a temperature gauge even though the older models up to 1998 had it. I was hoping to be able to fit one to it as I hate an old car with no temperature gauge. Just has a light that is supposed to come on if the engine over heats. I got a dash out of a Ghia model and was hoping to wire up a temp sensor to the Ghia dash but when I plug in the dash the mileage is from the car I took it out off. I taught that the mileage was stored on the car's ECU and the dash mileage would be updated from that but obviously I was wrong. Would anyone know if it is possible to change the mileage on the dash unit to what it should be or is this a big job. I have no experience dealing with car ECU's or what software is used.

 

Thanks.

14 minutes ago, gholan said:

mileage was stored on the car's ECU and the dash mileage would be updated from that but obviously I was wrong.

Hello Gerard, welcome to the Ford Owners Club 👍

Quick question before I try and answer yours.

When you have the instrument cluster from the other car fitted, does your car start as normal ?

10 hours ago, unofix said:

When you have the instrument cluster from the other car fitted, does your car start as normal ?

It will on that

The mileage is only stored in the cluster at that age, possibly the PCM too, but I doubt it.

The wiring for the temp sensor should be the same, so when you plug the Ghia cluster in the temperature gauge should work.

You could get the mileage adjusted if it's lower than your original but not if it's higher.

Take a photo of the original and keep it for proof

Thanks for your replys. I did start the car with the Ghia gauge fitted.  The mileage on my car is 48K. The mileage on the new guage is 85K. The rev counter works on the Ghia cluster even though the original cluster doesn't have one and also airbag light is on with the Ghia cluster and not with the original cluster.

The temperature gauge doesn't work with the Ghia cluster. I presume I will have to find a way to fit a temperature gauge sensor in the engine bay and wire it in. The car only has a light on the dash that comes on red if the engine overheats.

That's a shame about the Ghia cluster having higher mileage. If it had of been lower than yours then it could have easily been adjusted up using FORScan.

There is a company that some forum members have used that can set the mileage back to zero. Then you just use FORScan and set your own mileage.

I'm not exactly sure but the temperature light may just use a simple thermal switch in the engine to turn it on if the engine is too hot. Replacing this with the normal temperature sensor may get the gauge working without the need to rewire.

The Air Bag light is very probably because the Ghia model had extra air bags that your car doesn't have. Therefore it is failing the self test. Again using FORScan it may be possible to turn off the missing air bags so that the instrument cluster light will go out.

Setting the mileage is the biggest problem. I might post another thread to see if anyone knows the name of the company that set the mileage to zero. 

My car has the steering wheel airbag and another on the passenger dash. Don't think the car I got the dash out off had any more airbags. 

The is a stat behind the intake manifold. It is upside down so can't see it from the top of the engine. I think you are right it is probably just a switch open or closed.

A Lot of thinking to do about this.

Thanks.

8 hours ago, unofix said:

I'm not exactly sure but the temperature light may just use a simple thermal switch in the engine to turn it on if the engine is too hot. Replacing this with the normal temperature sensor may get the gauge working without the need to rewire.

Yes, agreed. You will need a temp sensor from a model with the gauge 

8 hours ago, unofix said:

The Air Bag light is very probably because the Ghia model had extra air bags that your car doesn't have. Therefore it is failing the self test. Again using FORScan it may be possible to turn off the missing air bags so that the instrument cluster light will go out.

Just take the bulb out👍

16 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

Just take the bulb out👍

MOT failure here if airbag light doesn't stay illuminated for a second  or two after starting. Car fails for airbag fault.

18 minutes ago, gholan said:

MOT failure here if airbag light doesn't stay illuminated for a second  or two after starting. Car fails for airbag fault.

It's the same here in the UK, the airbag light must come on with the ignition while it completes the self test. If there is no light then it's an MOT fail.

 

 

For all models of Petrol engine they use a coolant temperature sensor, not a switch.
Looks like diesel engines use a similar sensor but connected to the cluster directly and not via the PCM as with petrol.

The only difference that I can see for cluster wiring. There seems to be a slight difference between 1999.5-2000.25 & 2000.5-2002 models.
Either you need an earlier or later version to match your vehicle or the cluster needs to be reconfigured?

I got the ford wiring diagrams on Thursday for the mid year 1999 to mid year 2000. I haven't had time to go through them yet but will in the next few days. 

14 hours ago, Dan62 said:

For all models of Petrol engine they use a coolant temperature sensor, not a switch.
Looks like diesel engines use a similar sensor but connected to the cluster directly and not via the PCM as with petrol.

The only difference that I can see for cluster wiring. There seems to be a slight difference between 1999.5-2000.25 & 2000.5-2002 models.
Either you need an earlier or later version to match your vehicle or the cluster needs to be reconfigured?

I am a bit confused, on the petrol engines like the endura E are there 2 temperature sensors, one that goes to the PCM and other that is connected directly to the gauge cluster. I got the Ford genuine wiring manual on Thursday. It covers 1999.5 to 2000.5 Fiestas. Haven't had a chance to go through it yet but will do in the next few days. Thanks.

8 hours ago, gholan said:

on the petrol engines like the endura E are there 2 temperature sensors, one that goes to the PCM and other that is connected directly to the gauge cluster. 

There is just the one sensor, which you have found at the rear of the engine below the inlet manifold that connects to the PCM. The PCM drives the signal to the cluster.

Have you run the instrument cluster self test diagnostics on either cluster? Test 1 gauge sweep and test 12 coolant temp.
 

Okay. Thanks for that. Just one sensor.  I was going by what I saw on a youtube video, link is below where there are two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the PCM. This must be an older car, pre facelift maybe which has the analogue gauges.

I haven't run the instrument cluster self test diagnostics yet as didn't know how to. I found a video on youtube so will do that.

Thanks.

 

 

Interesting video, I think the 2nd sensor he pointed to is the camshaft position sensor.

Below is the full description of the tests available.

Self-Diagnostic Mode

1. To select the instrument cluster self-diagnostic mode depress and hold the tripmeter reset button then turn the ignition switch to position II or III.

2. Release the tripmeter reset button when TEST is displayed on the odometer Liquid Crystal Display (LCD). This will take between five and eight seconds.

3. The instrument cluster will enter the gauge sweep test.

4. To navigate to the following tests while in self diagnostic mode depress the RESET button to move to the next test.

5. The self-diagnostic mode is deactivated when the ignition is turned to the position 0.

6. If the self-diagnostic mode cannot be accessed, REFER to WDS.

Self-Diagnostic Mode

Test	Odometer Display	Gauge/Indicator/Display Tested	Description
1. Gauge sweep	GAGE	Tachometer, speedometer, temperature and fuel	All gauges go through an up and down sweep smoothness check, which takes approximately five seconds.
2. Fill in all LCD	All segments illuminated	Odometer LCD	Fills in LCD.
3. Indicator LEDs	Bulb	Indicators and warning indicators	Illuminates all the warning indicators that are controlled by the instrument cluster.
4. ROM level	r XX PASS or FAIL	Instrument cluster read only memory (ROM)	Displays the instrument cluster ROM revision level.
5. Non-volatile memory level	EE XX PASS or FAIL	Instrument cluster non-volatile memory	Displays the instrument cluster non-volatile memory condition.
6. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC)	dtc or XXXX	DTCs	To list the DTCs stored, press the RESET button. REFER to the instrument cluster DTC index. The DTC codes will scroll through if there is more than one.
7. Vehicle speed m.p.h.	EXXX.X	Speedometer	Displays the speed signal input in m.p.h.
8. Vehicle speed km/h	XXX.X	Speedometer	Displays the speed signal input in km/h.
9. Engine speed	t XXXX	Tachometer	Displays the tachometer input signal (RPM).
10. Fuel volume	F XXX	Fuel sender system	Displays the fuel volume signal input.
11. Engine type	Eng -X	PCM engine information	Displays the engine type.
12. Engine coolant temperature	XXXC	Engine coolant temperature	Displays the engine coolant temperature signal input.
13. Battery voltage	batXX.X	Battery Voltage	Displays battery voltage input.
14. Illumination	IL-[H/L]	Instrument cluster and instrument panel illumination	Displays instrument cluster and panel illumination.
15. LCD dimming	LCdXXX	Odometer display	Displays LCD dimming (18%-100%).
16. Crank sense	Cr -X	Crank sense circuit	Displays the crankshaft sensor input to the instrument cluster.
17. Ignition sense	IG -X	Ignition sense circuit	Displays the ignition input to the instrument cluster.
18. Washer fluid input	LS -X	Status of the low washer fluid level switch	Displays low washer fluid switch input.

Thanks for that. Very handy as I can just print this out. I will see what it does when I plug in the Ghia cluster and check the Temperature gauge, should  know if the wiring is there for it or not.

Thanks.

Dear all, I still have a Fiesta Endura from the first series, July 4, 1996, 1.3i/50HP, for the last 5 years I drive a little, maybe 5000 km, only in the city, rarely on a small hill.
Since some time ago, with the extreme heat in the Balkans, strange problems began, difficult starting, and after a certain warm-up, bad work, the engine takes gas slowly and chops. The master claims that the diode (or relay or thyristor ??) 91ag10374ba has a problem if the sensor 96FB-10884-AA is connected, ie. if it warms up then the engine works better but I don't have a temperature scale. I think the problem with the engine choking is from the gas return valve in the intake manifold.  I haven't taken out the valve for gasoline vapors to see the number, but Google doesn't recognize this image now. I changed the small hose 2 years ago and it was fine after that, but maybe the valve has another weakness now.
Anyone think since the circuit is a bit expensive I should buy a cheap universal 12V thermometer scale with a 1/8" NPT probe instead of the 96FB-10884-AA sensor ??
I'm also thinking about removing the insulation under the hood, even installing a universal cooling grill on the hood?
I have the original sensor ‎FORD:4323633, from the block, 16 years ago and it was replaced for a trial, but this one was the original correct one, so I kept it, and the one installed then suffered a failure of the PC belt, a breakdown of the radiator 6 years ago and I want to it was replaced, but the masters are stubborn, seeing that it needs to be on a channel, and we have a general crowd after the services for several years.
The main question is whether the 91ag10374ba diode is worth changing if the engine is running ??, ie. if it is hacked, will it not work at all??
Can I install another valve for gasoline vapors??

My problem is escalating... temperature scale and transmitter work, the connector was not connected, maybe they are not precise, but they are not important, they are not connected to the computer... The problem is that when the engine reaches the lowest operating temperature, if I turn it off, when restarting hot start as if I am getting symptoms of LIMBO MODE, even though the car is July 4, 1996, there is no such light, no start, the gear is limited, to put it in 4th gear you have to press the clutch a little, Only the reverse has no problem!?
I suspect the Electrical solenoid (Electromagnetic solenoid) 96FB9C915BA

but there is no new one anywhere. Question is if the hose fittings and connector fit, can I connect a NEW valve
New Fuel Evaporation Purge Valve Solenoid C1B19G866AA For Ford Fiesta Focus??

Edited August 14, 20241 yr by gesdim