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Focus MK2 small display fault

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The small display on my 57 reg focus has an intermittent fault.

I've searched for a solution, but I can't find info on a fault thats the same as mine, and the common fault is usually a completely blank display.

The small display works and sometimes has no faults at all, but most of the time there is a line running through the top of the display. This can either happen from turning the ignition on, or it can appear later while driving.

It's as if there is a line or two (the top line and or the next kind down) running through it that's not illuminated, chopping the top of the numbers or letters.

It's very annoying.



12 minutes ago, keith-276 said:

It's very annoying.

I'm assuming you want it fixed?

There's a guy on this forum who repairs instrument clusters who may be able to reach out and advise. @rd457 if he sees this might be along soon...

This is his Ebay page...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915

Pic? Probably needs a new LCD.

  • Author

Thanks.

I will take a photo the next time I notice the display has the line running through it.

If it does need a new LCD, then obviously redoing the soldering won't help, so I'll need to know what the problem is first.

7 hours ago, keith-276 said:

If it does need a new LCD, then obviously redoing the soldering won't help, so I'll need to know what the problem is first.

It'll be the LCD but you might as well get the solder redone whilst you're at it

17 hours ago, keith-276 said:

Thanks.

I will take a photo the next time I notice the display has the line running through it.

If it does need a new LCD, then obviously redoing the soldering won't help, so I'll need to know what the problem is first.

It'll want resoldering anyway, it's a very common problem with Mk2/2.5 units and you'll no doubt start experiencing symptoms sooner or later.

The LCDs have an embedded microchip and I believe what typically goes wrong is that the microscopic wires inside the LCD that connect to it start to separate from it. It's not practical to fix this. You'll need a replacement. Commonly people experience a completely dead display, sometimes it's just partial, sometimes artifacts appear. I'm sure that the line you're seeing is just such a random artifact from this failure and you'll need a replacement LCD to fix it.

Unfortunately you can't simply buy brand new LCDs from Ford to replace them with. There are some Chinese clones available for some models, of unknown quality/compatibility. The other option is scavenging a replacement from a used instrument cluster for sale on the likes of ebay, and crossing your fingers that it lasts. Either way obtaining one isn't cheap, it typically costs in the region of £50. For my repair service I always scavenge such used ones. Note that with the older Mk2 Focus units there are two different colours, red with white text and green with black. You'll want to get a replacement of the correct colour. Also note that there's more than one MK2 Focus instrument cluster model and the LCDs are not all the same, off the top of my head I recall some being six-pin and some seven. I'd have to consult my notes for specifics.

It would be understandable if you decided that the expense just isn't worth it for an occasional line appearing.

Note that with regards to my own repair service, I don't charge anything extra in terms of labour to swap in a replacement LCD while doing solder repair, you've just got to pay for the unit the replacement LCD is to be scavenged from, and we'd have to find a suitable one first of course.

  • Author

Thanks for the info.

Here is the problem with mine.

 

IMG_20241018_002444.jpg

IMG_20241018_002416.jpg

8 hours ago, keith-276 said:

Here is the problem with mine.

Yep.display is knackered. As above, get it replaced, and ALSO re-soldered at the same time to stave off future issues...

  • Author

I'll watch out for a replacement display for a reasonable price.

  • 4 months later...
  • Author

An update on this.....

The car has been off the road since before Christmas, after breaking down with a flat battery. I presumed it would be the alternator, so I finally replaced it recently, but it turned out it was the battery.

I got a new battery and went to fit it today, only to find the bonnet wouldn't open. Spent most of the day getting the bonnet open and then removed the silly bonnet release mechanism ready for a new one. I then finally fitted the new battery and the car runs fine, but the lcd display is now completely blank.

I don't know if the display has given up completely, after it having the line running through it, shown in my original posts, or if the blank display is something to do with the car being left with no battery for so long, or because I replaced the battery.

I have tried disconnecting the battery for a while a number of times, but the display is still blank. I tried the reset procedures ( on research, there are different procedures so I tied both) none of them did anything.

I'm not sure what to do about this. If it's the LCD, I will have it replaced, but I'm worried I'll have the LCD replaced and the re soldering done and still have a blank display and even more money will have to be thrown at this old car.

The red backlight for the LCD works, but there is no display at all now.

It just seems a bit of a coincidence that it has completely stopped working after changing alternator and the battery.

Any thoughts on this?

10 hours ago, keith-276 said:

Any thoughts on this?

Instrument cluster fault, very common. Read this...

 

  • Author

Thanks.

I've purchased a second hand cluster to take the display out of and fit into mine.

Obviously even if the replacement LCD works, there is no telling how long it will last, but it's the only option really.

  • Author

I've changed the LCD and it's working now.

However, after fitting the replacement bonnet release mechanism and fitting one of those upgrade shaft pieces without the anti tamper feature, I checked the bonnet release with the bonnet open and it was all working, although the key was a bit stiffer to turn 

Closed the bonnet and it won't open again. There is resistance turning the key, although it does still turn all the way left.

I have a feeling this aftermarket white plastic shaft upgrade may be a little too long and preventing full movement.

I just can't believe after all the trouble I've had getting the bonnet open and replacing the parts, I'm back to square one again.

I have no idea how I'm going to get it open this time, as it's not a case of it needing to be pushed back in place with a screwdriver. I'm in a mess I think 

  • Author

If anyone has any experience getting the bonnet open when the release mechanism already has the shaft upgrade fitted, please let me know.

Thanks

12 minutes ago, keith-276 said:

If anyone has any experience getting the bonnet open when the release mechanism already has the shaft upgrade fitted, please let me know.

Thanks

No 'direct' experience (employed the services of an independent garage), but have gone through a bit of a mare with same thing...

 

  • Author

Thanks.

The white plastic shaft upgrade spoken of in that thread is what I fitted after getting locked out from under the bonnet last weekend. 

I wish I never purchased this stupid upgraded shaft. It didn't work even once and now I'm back to square one again with being locked out from the engine bay.

If I ever manage to get this bonnet open, there is absolutely no way I'm entertaining the stupid idea of using the key to open the bonnet. I will be using a long screwdriver.

In my opinion, Ford should be responsible for fixing every single car with this failed design. Why not just have a pull handle inside the cabin, like every other car does?

With all the problems I've had with this MK 2 Focus, it will definitely be my last Ford.

34 minutes ago, keith-276 said:

Why not just have a pull handle inside the cabin

They have on the Focus Mk4 and Mk4.5

It's much, much better. Just the very slight problem that you need to be able to open the passenger door to be able to pull the handle, and of course if the battery is flat then the passenger door can not be opened 🤣

  • Author

Unbelievable 🤣 

Who comes up with these silly ideas !

If I ever get on top of these latest problems and get the car back on the road, it will be straight back to dealing with the constantly clogging fuel filter on this tdci, putting the car in limp mode almost every time I set off....oh and draining my spare wheel well after it rains 😔 

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

I managed to get the bonnet open at last.

I took the car to a garage first, but they couldn't do it.

So I took the under tray off, but didn't jack the car up, as I don't like being under cars supporter by amature jacks. I just about managed to reach the two bolts that hold the bonnet latch in place with a 10mm ring spanner and very slowly but surely managed to remove the two bolts. After that, it's a bit of a tricky job to knock the latch backwards to free it from the slam panel. You can then open the bonnet a little and once you unplug the connector for the wire attached to the latch, you can open the bonnet and then remove the latch from the bonnet while it's open, using a screwdriver to turn the latch.

What a horrible awkward job! It took me about an hour and a half to finally undo the latch and get the bonnet open. Lots of scrapes and little cuts on both arms and hands, but l eased the pain later on with plenty of whiskey!

As your under the car looking up, the bolt on the right (driver's side) can just be seen and is the easiest to start undoing. As that bolt gets further out, it became the hardest of the two to undo because of the radiator hose getting in the way and the left bolt which can't be seen becomes the easiest to work on.

I've ordered a 400mm long 8mm slotted screwdriver and will drill a hole behind the ford badge to access the opening latch.

There is absolutely no chance I'm re-fitting that piece of plastic junk to open the bonnet again. From now on, I want to know I can open it, not cross my fingers and hope I can open it.

IMG_20250406_023134.jpg

Very surprised that your garage couldn't do it. As already posted above, my guy put it on ramp, removed undertray, performed some witchcraft, had bonnet open and replaced mechanism all within 15 minutes...

  • Author

Perhaps they just couldn't be bothered. I only tried one fairly local garage, as my usual garage was closed.

 

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