1 hour ago, RaduF86 said:

Hi ASW,

So now that both bonnet open and bonnet "locked" resulted in rather high drain, it is time to start your fuse investigation:

1. open the door on the fuse side

2. use the boonet lock trick to "lock" the opened door

3. lock the entire car and measure the current until it settles to the drain value

4. start working yourself through each fuse. write down the pulled/measured fuse number and the current drain value. Could be several ECUs which are awake so you might have changes in the drain current of 50-100mA, not necessarily from 330mA all the way down to 40 mA.

5. After writing down everything you have checked, lookup the suspect fuse(s) and see what they are connected to.

6. Depends on what you find out on 5.

From these 330mA it looks like "most" of the car is sleeping. I base this argument on the drain i have on my car awake which is around 4 Amps and peaks at aroung 7 Amps when the ECUs are running some tests).

 

Other questions:

Does the car enter deep sleep? The Ford Pass app sends a notification when it does (asuming you have the app).

Do you have the possiblity of reading the DTCs? I once had a DTC related to the keyless entry sensors in the door handles. This never came up again, but i always wondered if that DTC might have ment the keyless entry does not let the door ECU to sleep. This happened in a period when i was constantly getting deep sleep notifications and the keyless entry was being deactivated on the passenger side. 

 

You also need to cover or disable the Internal Movement Alarm Sensor while doing the above. I think all UK cars are fitted with them

if it points to door, this may be worth a watch?:

 

Hi

Focus 1.0L Manual Mk4 pre facelift (UK 69 Plate)

 Many thanks to all who have responded (including the recent informative video).  I do not have the Ford Pass app.

I have concluded that I need to involve an auto electrician (old age is creeping up). Have now identified three who are “relatively” close.  Interestingly, all three appear to be focused on “upgrading” vehicles rather than fixing problems with standard cars.  

Any thoughts on a mobile visitation or to their workshop?  Given that it will probably take time to identify the problem, and may need replacement parts, likely to be expensive (and may pose transport problems for myself).

Some final questions ...

Q1: What does ECU stand for - electrical computing unit?

Q2: What does DTC stand for?

Q3: I assume that someone with the FORSan software would be a preferable choice?    

18 minutes ago, ASW said:

Q1: What does ECU stand for - electrical computing unit?

ECU is a generic term which is generally taken to be 'Engine Control Unit'. Since cars in the last 20 years have got more and more control modules the term ECU is not used much. For Ford vehicles the closest match would be the PCM, which is the 'Powertrain Control Module' which does what it's name says. The second most commonly mentioned unit is the BCM which is the 'Body Control Module' it looks after the electrical control of things like wipers and lights.

18 minutes ago, ASW said:

Q2: What does DTC stand for?

DTC stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code. These are error or fault codes which the many modules on the car will record if problems occur. Codes which begin 'U' are communication errors on the data communication system.

18 minutes ago, ASW said:

Q3: I assume that someone with the FORSan software would be a preferable choice?    

Yes it would be definitely better to use the diagnostic software FORScan rather than just a generic code reader. Like all manufactures Ford have their own unique specific DTC's as well as the standard codes. Most generic code readers, no matter how good or how expensive they are will not read some or all of the Ford specific codes.

I think the more information and understanding you have (such as explanations above) the better.
Regarding auto electricians, I suggest it's more like a diagnostician, someone who can understand that codes are not the be all and end all and just change parts which may or may not be the root cause of the issue. It is often interaction between engine parts that throw up the DTCs (see, you know that already!) and, especially wiring faults that cause problems?

Mobile guys can be a good first port of call and you are likely to have to pay a call out charge including usually an hour of work after which they should explain what they propose.
In any case it is likely to be cheaper to get this sorted than change the car???

I follow several guys (no gals on the scene that I know of) who have, what I consider to be the right attitude and in discussion with any techie, you can hopefully suss them out?:
https://www.youtube.com/@SYDiagnostics (video above)
https://www.youtube.com/@Diagnosedan
https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354
https://www.youtube.com/@intelligentauto737

I think there is a network of like minded techs but can't recall?