What’s best practice when I’m in traffic or at T junctions or idling does it do anything bad holding it in the brake? Should I put it in Neutral when stationary 

Is this wet (claimed to reduce torque to a low 5 Nm in gear, stationary)or dry (no idea) box?

In any case, we always select neutral in an attempt  to prolong life by any means (other positions are available!)

If you can still feel it pulling slightly then it's wearing out the clutches.  When you come to a complete stop it should fully disengage the clutches so no extra wear in that case.

It's not recommended to return to neutral on the road in an auto.  Unless it's going to be a very long wait such as a level crossing for example.

@TomsFocus so assume the complete disengagement is for the dry clutch design?

There is a definite small but noticeable drag on wet clutch.

13 hours ago, Shearers said:

@TomsFocus so assume the complete disengagement is for the dry clutch design?

There is a definite small but noticeable drag on wet clutch.

I had a wetclutch DSG that fully disengaged when stationary.  I would hope the Ford equivalent does the same but can't say for sure.

Could even take foot of the brake pedal in D in that car as auto-hold would keep the brakes on until I touched the throttle again.  

There were two 'stages' of braking.  The first stage was light braking, coming up to a fairly clear junction, where the clutches would be kept slipping and pulling slightly for a quick getaway.  But then a firmer pedal press would cause a complete stop with fully disengaged clutches and auto-hold activated, such as for a red traffic light.

13 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Could even take foot of the brake pedal in D in that car as auto-hold would keep the brakes on until I touched the throttle again.  

There were two 'stages' of braking.  The first stage was light braking, coming up to a fairly clear junction, where the clutches would be kept slipping and pulling slightly for a quick getaway.  But then a firmer pedal press would cause a complete stop with fully disengaged clutches and auto-hold activated, such as for a red traffic light.

Exactly the same in my Focus Mk4 auto. 👍

What transmission is in the car?

If it is the Getrag Powershift wet clutch 6DCT450 there is no need whatsoever to take it out of "D" when stationary - This question has been raised on here before. I have the Getrag manual that describes exactly how it works - if the speedo is at at zero and you have your foot on the brake, with trans in "D" the unit automatically disengages drive completely.

I suspect you may actually have the torque converter type trans made by Ford USA designated 6F35 mid range or 8F mid range 

1 hour ago, TrevorB said:

What transmission is in the car?

If it is the Getrag Powershift wet clutch 6DCT450 there is no need whatsoever to take it out of "D" when stationary - This question has been raised on here before. I have the Getrag manual that describes exactly how it works - if the speedo is at at zero and you have your foot on the brake, with trans in "D" the unit automatically disengages drive completely.

I suspect you may actually have the torque converter type trans made by Ford USA designated 6F35 mid range or 8F mid range 

Possibly,

What engine is fitted to your car please?

this post reminds me of a dangerous issue - I drove a Nissan rental car thing with DSG box - it also had adaptive cruise...

when you came to a rest up behind another car, at say a set of traffic lights (like the weirdos do in the Netherlands - in the middle of their motoways), it slowed nicely - stopped nicely, and remained like that on an auto hold....  so you take in the sights (which in most cases in NL is a needless deliberate traffic jam) after about 5 seconds as you look around you notice a beep - which of course you ignore in modern cars...

and suddenly the thing tries to crash in to the car in front... kept doing it - and I couldn't understand what raving maniac wrote that software - years later I realised it was a feature to save the DSG clutches overheating - insanity rules

 

that said - drove a DSG focus in a M5 traffic jam - and kept getting messages on the cluster for overheating clutch - even though I tried to keep it moving at a steady speed in low gear - must have had 8 warning for it overheating in less than 20 minutes of the stop start fake traffic jam

the message basically said "you can't drive - stop driving slowly and park the car you moron" I was thinking how many owners park on the hard shoulder and end up with a nice chat from the highways agency idiots

 

Possibly, Possibly? = No, its a fact if it is a Getrag Powershift 6DCT450

I have no clue lol. It’s 2017 st line 1.5 TDCI. I just wanted to look after it as best I could. 

conventional auto - always leave in gear and hold on the brake (anything else wears the gearbox)

DSG, as the clutches drag a smidge it will wear them out... (hence the overheating messages) I guess start stop helps in that case (but start stop will wear out the engine instead)

they used both types in various Focus models - only recently read they gave up with the conventional auto as it has rough changes

Botus, re DSG transmissions - no prob leaving the Getrag Powershift 6DCT450 in D providing speedo at zero and foot on the brake - fact, as stated in Getrag Powershift manual. If you do that with Getrag you do not get overheating messages.

"Gave up with conventional auto" Ford have been using normal torque converter type trans in most of their models since approx 2017/2018 - they are manufactured by Ford USA which was a joint venture with GM years ago - various types known as 6F35 mid range, 8F35 mid range etc

Stephenb79 - as you have a diesel you will have the Getrag Powershift Trans, so drive it as I mention re leaving in D - no problem.

Most very important thing with your trans is that trans oil and filter, to give any chance of decent length of life, MUST be changed every 37,500 miles or 3 years whichever occurs first. Quite a specialised procedure but plenty of info on "How To" on here and You Tube

And keep your battery in tip top condition👍

Thank you I’ve just had mine done at the garage was £400 but least it’s done seems lovely and smooth compared to other autos I’ve had I must say although it tried to stall this morning whilst pulling away lol 

I certainly don't want to start a war, sorry to be disagreeing, and I won't actually be changing my practise of 14 years with no transmission issues.
I echo the need for regular oil and filter changes and for @Stephenb79 benefit, if he has that transmission (I'll bet he's almost sorry for asking 😉) I'll post again one cheaper source of oil and filter and it's not rocket science:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112436788478
You can obviously pay them the extra £300 if you like (we did the first time but after that, no way)

The most difficult bit is to (on a DIY basis) raise the car, (I use a block of wood under each wheel, then remove the passenger side front and jack to get it level again. This gives space to access the drain plugs (need to remove undertray if fitted first) Then follow the correct procedure to drain and change filter (multiple videos but definitely not top up until oil flows out of plug on the side)

Now, from 2011 Ford IDS for 6DCT450:

"Torque reduction in the "D" position with the brake depressed and the vehicle stationary

If the vehicle is stopped in selector lever position "D", the TCM preselects 2nd and reverse gear and reduces the torque of the driveaway clutch to approx. 5 Nm.
This function stabilises idling, lowers fuel consumption and reduces vibrations transmitted by the powertrain."

So it doesn't disengage completely (ours tries to creep forward slightly) and if the clutch has some torque on it, there must be wear?

On 1/27/2025 at 10:09 AM, TrevorB said:

I have the Getrag manual that describes exactly how it works

Please post the section that states that there is no need to use N when stationary for an extended period with engine running or gives definitive advice on that aspect of use?

Also is there a way to check the oil level of the transmission like a dipstick 

Shearers, I don't get into slanging matches either. How can yours "Try to creep forward" if you have your foot properly on the brake? Doesn't make sense.

All that  I can say is what is said in a "How It Works Manual" from Getrag, that I obtained, although it is many years old from the early days of Powershift. The full book is over 100 pages.

These are the words -  "Neutral control"
This is a function that is activated when the driver stops and the vehicle is stationary, e.g., at a red light.
The TCM disengages the clutches.
The function reduces both fuel consumption and vibrations. When the driver releases the brake, the
clutch torque increases on the clutch for which the gear is engaged, and drive increases.
The following conditions must be met in order for the neutral function to activate:
· gear lever in D or R.
· throttle position 0%
· brake pedal pressed down.
· speed 0 km/h.

Stephenb79 there are many video's on YouTube re oil and filter change - here is an example

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CERqRSK2SWM

I only ever used genuine Ford oil and filter in my 2011 2L Ecoboost Titanium X Sport and it is still running perfect now at 90,000 miles, although I no longer own it but do know the owner

I have had it all changed and sorted just wanted to check level and keep on top of it 

@TrevorB your manual and my quote from ETIS appear to conflict. If I ease off the brakes, the car creeps forward (grant you, if that is done, it may well meet the Getrag quote cos obviously the brake won't be fully on!)

However, there is no way of telling and ETIS states that, when stationary, in D there is still a small torque rather than zero torque.

Therefore we'll have to leave it at that and each do what we choose to be correct, likewise oil (have used generic oil meeting Ford spec after the first very expensive change at 3 years and we are at 118k.

@Stephenb79 there is no dipstick for checking level.

You have the car level and the side plug accessible, you warm up the oil and move the lever through every possible position, holding each for 20sec. Then remove the side plug and collect any oil that drains out (this is NOT an overfill condition) You then add oil through the top filler plug in 250ml steps (I would say perhaps 100ml) and once fluid flows out of the plug, wait until it decays into individual  drops. Then and only then are both chambers at the correct level and the plugs can be refitted.  (I have added 100ml to allow for leaks with no ill effects but that isn't recommended officially)

If you want to know what the level was, there's this:
Recalculation of the old transmission fluid level: 
Using the measuring container, add the escaping transmission fluid to the before collected transmission fluid. 
Collected transmission fluid – filled transmission fluid = old transmission fluid level (e.g. if 300 ml (250 ml + 50 ml = 300ml) have been collected and 2x 250 ml have been filled into the transmission, would mean that the old transmission fluid level was 200 ml (300ml - 500 ml = -200 ml) to low). 

Picture shows the two fluid chambers and the reason for the level checking procedure.

Creep on a DCT/DSG is fake, software created

The clutches don't engage until a throttle signal is seen

Creep was written in to help in low speed manoeuvres

If your foot is on the brake the clutches are disengaged

 

1 hour ago, DaveT70 said:

Creep on a DCT/DSG is fake, software created

The clutches don't engage until a throttle signal is seen

Creep was written in to help in low speed manoeuvres

If your foot is on the brake the clutches are disengaged

 

more interestingly at what point are the clutches fully in 100% drive and in both 1st and 2nd gears

many petrols with tight emission control hate to drive smoothly in a queue on a closed or just open throttle - in steady very low traffic speeds (say 4 to 9mph range) whereas a tractor will chug no issues and no shunting - petrols often need a smidge of clutch slip to get the engine happy and remove the on off snatching / shunting

when I was doing a steady 9mph on a very steady set throttle and as high at 15mph - over the full 45 mins of fake hell they'd created for a Friday afternoon on the M5 -  I was still getting clutch overheating messages basically as soon as when I got caught in the mess - so I guess it in its crappy software it still felt a bit of slip was a good idea, even at relatively high road speeds - (as I mentioned it did it on 8 or so occasions)