So we got ourselves a No2 car, 2006 2.0 TDCI, only had it for a week.
Today my girlfriend called and said the air con and/or inside fan was not working. Display was working. But no air coming. 
A while after she stopped the car, and after that, It wont turn over.
No alarms in dash (exept tyre pressure warning, and that has been active since we got the car). 
I was able to start the car by rolling it downhill and releasing clutch and so.
Fan was still not working. 
Got the car home. 
Cant find any fault really. No Alarms. Voltage from battery ok. 
Key fob working for locking/ unlocking. Tried to deattach the +12V from the battery and left it for 30 min, then attached again. No difference.
I found the starter relay, and measured that it dont get a control voltage when trying to start. 
Kinda sounds like the immobilizer issue have have found in this forum. But I have no alarm. Just nothing happens. 
I do not have a ODBII reader that works on this car. 
This car does not have the start engine button, but "old school" normal key ignition.

Any tips very much appreciated.

It's the decay that's worrying me: no fan, starting then no starting - unless it's just coincidence?

May indeed be an immobiliser issue but I think codes/live data are now needed (Forscan & V-linker lead recommended)?

Otherwise it's total guessing.

Unless someone can make a Magic Suggestion?

33 minutes ago, Shearers said:

It's the decay that's worrying me: no fan, starting then no starting - unless it's just coincidence?

May indeed be an immobiliser issue but I think codes/live data are now needed (Forscan & V-linker lead recommended)?

Otherwise it's total guessing.

Unless someone can make a Magic Suggestion?

Maybe I should add. The fan was working. But stopped working at some point during the drive. And when she stopped the car. It did not turn over after. After that as I wrote in 1st post. 

Use FORScan and get the Ford specific DTC's.

22 minutes ago, unofix said:

Use FORScan and get the Ford specific DTC's.

Not sure where to get that here in Norway. Can I use this scanner to get out what I need? https://www.amazon.co.uk/iCarsoft-CR-Diagnostic-Bi-directional-Diagnoses/dp/B0D1BJTGLL?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

Can rent it for the weekend if so. 

It's free to download:
https://forscan.org/home.html

Lead: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BLH3ZTG1

This is Ford specific software and a lead that allows you to do everything (with a relatively cheap licence if you want to program modules etc)

No licence needed to read/delete codes and look at live data etc.

That tool MAY do the job but Forscan is the Bees Knees (UK saying i.e. best possible for Ford!) so maybe worth considering, certainly for the longer term?

 

 

17 hours ago, MazdaLaVista said:

Can rent it for the weekend if so

You can download it for free !! 👍

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

• vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR

• OBDLINK EX, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDLINK-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/ref=sr_1_5

 

• vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L
• vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

57 minutes ago, unofix said:

You can download it for free !! 👍

 

Thanks. I will get one of those, but will be delivery time and so. And I should have got the car running yesterday. 

Do you recommend the one for laptop or phone? Think I read somewhere that the app was removed from google play? 

Will rent the other obd scanner for the weekend I guess, and see what I can find. 

 

Only the windows laptop version can make programming changes.

The android phone app has been suspended for new customers due sanctions against Russia.

The iPhone version is still available.

3 hours ago, MazdaLaVista said:

Think I read somewhere that the app was removed from google play? 

Correct but you can download it direct from FORScan.

40 minutes ago, unofix said:

The android phone app has been suspended for new customers due sanctions against Russia.

You can now buy it again, it costs 11 US$ though.

https://forscan.org/download.html

Okey, So I borrowed the ICarsoft Pro as mentioned. 
Need some help here.
I Will make this into 3 posts, maybe more easy to follow. 
This post will be about the "OBDII check" from the meny of the IcarSoft

This I am not sure if make sense. But hopefully you lot do.
 

 

Okey So next post is the live data 
Could not see anything changing when trying to start 

1 hour ago, MazdaLaVista said:

ICarsoft Pro

Seems to be of little use for your car.

And third post is about the diagnostics
Will be quite a few pictures 
1 is dash when trying to start. The info is just saying tyre pressure.

PCM I can only check the first two options, as the last has to has the motor running. But first two, no fault codes.



Next is the ABS/ TCS



Here there are  two DTC 
U3001
U0126

Next is RCM
 


DTC B0094

Next is IPC, no DTC
 

Next is HVAC, no DTC
 

Next is AHCM


DTC U3000

Next is PAM
 

DTC B1B38
        B1B44
        B1B46
        B1B48 but to be honest, I do not think this car has these.

Next is BCMII
 

DTC B1130
        C1D21
        U0181

Next is PSCM,SASM, DDM, PDM no DTC


Next is SRM, TRM and VDM, no DTC
 


So in summary: 
ABS/TCS (Anti Lock Brake Sytem/ Traction Control Module)
             U3001 Control Module Improper Shutdown
             U0126 Lost Communication with SASM
RCM (Restraint Control Module)
             B0094 Center Frontal Restraints Sensor
AHCM  (Auxilary Heater Control Mode)
             U3000 Control Module 
PAM  (Parking Aid Module)
             B1B38 Front Right Inner Sensor
             B1B44 Rear Right Outer Sensor
             B1B46 Rear Right Inner Sensor
             B1B48 Rear Left Outer Sensor
BCMII (Body Control Module)
             B1130  Light Switch Module
             C1D21 Wheel Module 
             U0181 Lost Communication with Headlamp Leveling Control Module

This seems like I see it, Light is impossible to controll, fan not working, and motor wont start. 
But why, and what to do next?

On a quick look at all of that confusion, I see very few to no codes that are relevant to a no crank condition?

With all of that chaff (meaning loads of irrelevant stuff that prevents you seeing the real issues) it would normally be - check battery condition with a view to changing after confirming a fault due to low voltage?

My only thought would be to clear the irrelevant codes, see what sticks/comes back and go from there.

I also note @unofix comment that means (to me) that multiple modules cannot be read (and they may have codes that actually mean something in this no crank case!)

As usual, I can only say what I see from my reading of the evidence you supply (my comments may well be wrong!)

"We" always rely on Forscan as the definitive reader for codes.

Battery is ok. Also with smartcharger on and 13V readout its the same. And no drop in voltage if try to crank(makes sense since it doesnt try to start anyways) . 

Is it possible to find wiring diagram for this car somewhere? Maybe its a faulty relay not giving power to these modules or something? Or a fuse. I have checked all non hidden fuses. And the hidden ones inside the left wall of the battery"cage".

Not sure if there are any more fuses. 

Most faulty sensors and whatever should give some alarm in the car I reckon. But I have nothing. Only the check tyre pressure. 

I will order the Forscan. But that does not help me at the moment. As there will be weeks until I recieve the V linker from Amazon. And I need the car running yesterday 🙂

 

I agree there is nothing there saying it wont crank. But my guess is that if if the bus system does not  communicate with all (or the most important modules) , it does not give the "green" light to start cranking? Just thinking. I know my way around a car, and with electronics, but not much experience with "modern car" electronics. 

All help very much appreciated

 

You need to use FORScan and get the Ford specific fault codes. Until you do that then you will go round in circles, none of those pictures make any sense.

Good wiring diagrams are as rare as rocking horse droppings unless you subscribe or a Saint sends them!

Haynes Autofix is the nearest at reasonable cost but aren't conventional format (more of a fault finding flowchart)

https://haynes.com/en-gb/car-manuals-1

Here is a screenshot (wire colours and pin locations are below the diagram - this is likely not for your exact model/year!):

Simplest immediate way would be to use handbook/fusebox details to check power relays and test them off the car (but just because they click doesn't mean they are working)

Problem solved
I had my day set for controlling relays, measuring earthpoints and and so on. 
Printed out a layout for mondeo mk4 as that fuse and relay setup, looked to match my car (noticed not all fuse sizes was correct).
Anyways, it was for guidance only as I then could tick them of as I checked fuses and relays and so. 

Link to setup https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Fuse_%26_Relay_Information_-_Mk4

Started with the Rear FuseBox (RFB), all fuses and relays ok. Earth point in left and rear side if measured to same voltage point was 0,01 V apart. Voltage supply ok. All good. 

Next was CentralFuseBox (CFB), measured all fuses to be ok. Also measured Voltage. ok
Then was about to start looking for earth points , and was moving on cables and so. followed the blue connector on right hand side of the CFB module, that only goes 30cm or something to a new blue connector, that coupling was totally loose. My guess is previous owner have been in there doing something. And not connected in properly. and it has loosened over time. 
Anyways. Plugged in connector. turned ignition to on, and as if John Wick had gone apeshit and silenced all against him, in fear of being the next in line , the interior fan started up. 
By this point I was shaking in my knees, put gear in neutral and turned the ignition all the way to 11 (yes that is past 10). ITS ALIVE!!

Okey the last few sentences was maybe abit exaggerated. But you know, in the heat of the moment.

Wow! Just goes to show a simple check (within, perhaps a bit of a diagnostic plan?) can work wonders?

Thanks for coming back with that resolution!

3 minutes ago, Shearers said:

Wow! Just goes to show a simple check (within, perhaps a bit of a diagnostic plan?) can work wonders?

Thanks for coming back with that resolution!

Yeah I had a quick check before starting anything that stuff was connected, but only directly to the modules. did not see this next "stage" plug.