Can someone tell me the torque settings for the HB3 (bolt) 

And the HN1 (nut).

Complete torque list for rear suspension would be awesome. 

From S-Max ETIS (looks identical?):
  
1. Torque: 8 Nm (Adjusting bolt at inner end) HN1
2. Torque: 120 Nm (Lower arm at hub) HB3

 

Suspect both best set when weight on wheels especially outer end to avoid pre-stressing rubber bushing?

Bit of a faff as in virtual machine and no full list in one place but if you are happy with model and need more, come back.

1 minute ago, Shearers said:

From S-Max ETIS (looks identical?):
  
1. Torque: 8 Nm (Adjusting bolt at inner end) HN1
2. Torque: 120 Nm (Lower arm at hub) HB3

 

Suspect both best set when weight on wheels especially outer end to avoid pre-stressing rubber bushing?

Bit of a faff as in virtual machine but if you need more, come back.

Thanks.. Can 8Nm be correct? I belive its a 12mm bolt. And since its a adjusting bolt that would slip and slide pretty easy? 

Agree it seems low but AFAIK it is a self locking Nyloc nut and a serrated snail cam type to allow adjustment and that data is straight from 2011 S-Max ETIS (honestly)
Loctite if you are unsure?

Edit it's not serrated but is like a snail cam to adjust tracking and may not be Nyloc (ours is rusted seriously)
BUT you'll need to get rear tracking checked and they will tighten it correctly for you (Joke - I'd love to know what the professional do!)
It also says place a spacer (to replace spring) 226 x 40 diameter and jack against that before tightening which implies that rubber bushes will be fixed in the correct orientation.

Edited April 6, 20251 yr by Shearers

I'd fit new bolts as tyre fitters always say "they may be seized and that is a MUCH bigger job"  i.e. more cost. (although you will be putting bolts back that have been loosened):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315118293894

I've been through ETIS and note these torque settings (again, S-Max 2011):
 

Rear Suspension Torque Figures

 

Lower arm adjusting bolts: 8 Nm

Lower arm to pressed hub: 120 Nm

Anti Roll Bar mountings: 48 Nm

Anti Roll Bar Link (to bar – top with rubber bushes): 15 Nm, to pressed hub: 60 Nm

Front mounting to body: 180 Nm

Front Lower link, both ends: 130 Nm

Handbrake cable to link: 2.8 Nm

Brake pipe brackets: 20 Nm

Bearing to pressed hub: 120 Nm

Brake caliper to hub: 110 Nm

Brake caliper bolts for pad change: 35 Nm

ABS sensor: 5 Nm

Forged upper arm, both ends: 130 Nm

Shock absorber lower bolt: 175 Nm (Load levelling 280 Nm)

Shock absorber upper bolts: 30 Nm

40 minutes ago, Shearers said:

Agree it seems low but AFAIK it is a self locking Nyloc nut and a serrated snail cam type to allow adjustment and that data is straight from 2011 S-Max ETIS (honestly)
Loctite if you are unsure?
BUT you'll need to get rear tracking checked and they will tighten it correctly for you (Joke - I'd love to know what the professional do!)
It also says place a spacer (to replace spring) 226 x 40 diameter and jack against that before tightening which implies that rubber bushes will be fixed in the correct orientation.

New bolts are mounted, lock nuts, but not nylon btw. Glad I had them ordered in advance. As they snapped (was seized up in the bushing). 

I am not afraid the bolt will loosen and " fall off" sinceit has the lock nut, but have a feeling the bolt will turn and change the adjustment if tightened to only 8Nm. Tbh I have probably tightened it more then that when just mounting it when setting it at old mark. 

Rear tracking will be checked out when all is changed (later this summer hopefully), but those arms had to be changed due to heavy corrosion where the spring meets the rubber in the arm. 

8Nm is less then recommended torque for a M6 (6mm) 8.8. So find it strange that a M12 bolt that gets alot of sideways stress(and since it has the design it has, also rotational force) should only have 8Nm. Not questioning your answer. As I am sure you found the correct ones. I am trying to understand how that can work

8 minutes ago, MazdaLaVista said:

I am trying to understand how that can work

Me too, (edited my post of serration and Nyloc, thanks) looking at the e-Bay entry the slot in the bolt seems to do the locating/resist the force. All the nut has to do is clamp the assembly and I agree is seems low but wringing it on may squash the assembly too much.

I fitted 2 new track rod ends and thought putting them on same number of turns would be fine. Tracking was miles out and steering worryingly twitchy. Instead of self centreing it ADDED to the amount of steering input.

Also, should have cleaned threads further down as Kik Fit had really difficult time ***** them on further which led to more cost.

Rear shouldn't cause same effect but suggest getting tracking done soon just in case of tyre wear?

 

its actually 103 Nm not 8 Nm. Its documented in the rear wheel alignment section under suspension.

You set it to 8Nm to do the alignment on the ecentric