Hi all,

I just replaced my IB5 gearbox oil seal, all went fine, I disconnected the ABS sensor and undid the torx25 bolt/screw, however did not remove the sensor as it was in there pretty good and didn’t want to break it. I did remove the wire from the bracket to make sure it wasn’t stressed at any point during the process. 
 

However when I’ve turned the car on after the job was complete, the ABS & ESC light come on the dash. Car sounded like a nice with very smooth gear changes. 
 

I’ll run FORScan later on to look at the codes, and possibly clear depending on what they are, to see if they pop back up. Just wanted to know if a possible code flagged up because I disconnected it, ?…I didn’t disconnect battery during this process . 

Im generally pretty methodical and careful, so am pretty sure I haven’t damaged any parts, but obviously it is possible I’m far from an expert. Any help would be good, cheers guys 

Drive it over 7mph and it should clear.

49 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Drive it over 7mph and it should clear.

😂😂thanks Tom! You’re the man!

Just the kind of answer I was looking for 😂

18 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Drive it over 7mph and it should clear.

Sorry to bother you again, but the on dash lights cleared as you said. 
 

However, I knew there was one coming. I seem to have a bell type ringing sound when moving in gear. Any ideas what this might be? 

1 minute ago, EastLondonLiving said:

However, I knew there was one coming. I seem to have a bell type ringing sound when moving in gear. Any ideas what this might be? 

That doesn't great.   Did you put enough gear oil back in?  

Loose wheel nut caps can make a tinkling noise on these but I wouldn't say that's particularly close to bell ringing.  Is there any other way you can describe the noise?

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

That doesn't great.   Did you put enough gear oil back in?  

Loose wheel nut caps can make a tinkling noise on these but I wouldn't say that's particularly close to bell ringing.  Is there any other way you can describe the noise?

Yeah sure, it’s definitely only coming from the drivers side, sounds like a hollow bell ringing, kicking in after about 10mph and was constant until I parked up. 

As for gear oil, pretty sure. I topped it up until it was spilling out, and then only removed maybe 30-50ml.

Driving very smooth, just the ringing now.

5 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That doesn't great.   Did you put enough gear oil back in?  

Loose wheel nut caps can make a tinkling noise on these but I wouldn't say that's particularly close to bell ringing.  Is there any other way you can describe the noise?

And as for loose wheel nut caps, I changed my wheel nuts to one-piece 19mm nuts.

Could it possibly be the half shaft baring bracket, not tightened enough? 

3 minutes ago, EastLondonLiving said:

Yeah sure, it’s definitely only coming from the drivers side, sounds like a hollow bell ringing, kicking in after about 10mph and was constant until I parked up. 

Weird.  Must be something in the drivetrain if it only happens while moving.  Could be the intermediate shaft bearing if drivers side.  Could also be wheel bearing.  Did you fully remove the shaft or leave the hub end connected?  If fully removed, check the driveshaft bolt is tight now.

7 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Weird.  Must be something in the drivetrain if it only happens while moving.  Could be the intermediate shaft bearing if drivers side.  Could also be wheel bearing.  Did you fully remove the shaft or leave the hub end connected?  If fully removed, check the driveshaft bolt is tight now.

Yeah I fulled removed the hub end from the wheel to remove the driveshaft. 
 

I initially suspected it to be the intermediate shaft bareing, would there be any way to quieten this? Or isit a matter of I will need to replace the whole driveshaft? 
 

Sorry to be a newbie, but when you say driveshaft bolt, you mean the bolt that connects the driveshaft through the wheel? 

@TomsFocus Cheers Tom i really appreciate the advice on this hot weekend

1 minute ago, EastLondonLiving said:

Yeah I fulled removed the hub end from the wheel to remove the driveshaft. 
 

I initially suspected it to be the intermediate shaft baring, would there be any way to quieten this? Or isit a matter of I will need to replace the whole driveshaft? 
 

Sorry to be a newbie, but when you say driveshaft bolt, you mean the bolt that connects the driveshaft through the wheel? 

I can't remember how the bearing locates on these now.  It might just not have gone back in squarely or fully and just need a tap with a hammer and punch in a carefully selected spot.  The bearings are usually only a press fit so can technically be replaced without the rest of the driveshaft if needed.

Yes, that's the bolt I mean.  If it's not tight enough the wheel bearing could come apart slightly.

28 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I can't remember how the bearing locates on these now.  It might just not have gone back in squarely or fully and just need a tap with a hammer and punch in a carefully selected spot.  The bearings are usually only a press fit so can technically be replaced without the rest of the driveshaft if needed.

Yes, that's the bolt I mean.  If it's not tight enough the wheel bearing could come apart slightly.

Yeah I completely get you. 

I’m thinking this may be the culprit now, right last knockings (tools everywhere) when I tightened the wheel hub nut (13mm) I only had my 3/8” wrench and a 12 point 13mm socket, which wasn’t ideal as I know these need to be torqued to 135Nm with typically a 6 point 1/2”, no exceptions.
 

Like you’ve rightly said if it ain’t fully square or tight, it may be causing the sound. I think I’m going to release the hub nut bolt, give the wheel baring a few taps with the lump hammer (to possibly properly seat the intermediate shaft baring / splines in the gear box) in case they were a few mm shy of their destination. Retighten to spec (135Nm) and see if that makes a difference. Fingers crossed
 

Im trying to think positive and hope I won’t have to change the intermediate shaft baring, as lovely as push fit sounds. 
 

Cheers again @TomsFocus really appreciate this. Will keep you all updated 

 

Just an afterthought, should I have greased the inside of the driveshaft bracket (where it meets the intermediate shaft baring)? 
As I did think this when cleaning parts and putting back together, that the metal on metal …

7 minutes ago, EastLondonLiving said:

Just an afterthought, should I have greased the inside of the driveshaft bracket (where it meets the intermediate shaft baring)? 
As I did think this when cleaning parts and putting back together, that the metal on metal …

No.  The bearing outer race needs to be held stationary in there, shouldn't be any movement at all.  If it gets greased then the outer race could spin which would quickly cause wear.  We only want the balls spinning between the two bearing races.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

No.  The bearing outer race needs to be held stationary in there, shouldn't be any movement at all.  If it gets greased then the outer race could spin which would quickly cause wear.  We only want the balls spinning between the two bearing races.

Makes perfect sense, cheers mate 

Tightened the driveshaft retaining bolt and Crack! It sheared, spend the last hour drilling it out and extracting the rest of the sheared bolt in the driveshaft. Finally got it removed, still not sure if it was the culprit of the sound. 
 

Plan to order a new driveshaft retaining bolt then refit that and hope for the best. Just double checking I’ve got the right bolt here: code: 1569107

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156469529574?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&ff=11&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_IkHVtGiANy0UaNTS5m9UtHP&customid=CjwKCAjw9uPCBhATEiwABHN9Kz6aFElExL0bfsnGkVDIeQTEBI2jk1VcyydjokMBNPCcBMozxJ6PsRoCzt8QAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjw9uPCBhATEiwABHN9Kz6aFElExL0bfsnGkVDIeQTEBI2jk1VcyydjokMBNPCcBMozxJ6PsRoCzt8QAvD_BwE
 

 

 

 

 

Yes that's the right part number. 

27 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes that's the right part number. 

Cheers Tom, right on my last nerve with it. My own fault really, they do say this nut should be replaced once loosened. A detail I should have never overlooked for this reason. 

Just to double check with you guys, the correct torque for the wheel hub / driveshaft retaining bolt, should be torqued to = 145Nm ? 
 

Or isit 45Nm + 90 degrees turn ? 
 

I set my torque wrench to 100Nm earlier when tightening the above bolt, it sheared before it clicked. 

In the photo that bolt seems to be an M8 but perhaps its just the way it looks.

The maximum torque of an M8 is 48Nm.

Of course if your bolt is larger then potentially the torque could be higher. I don't have the torque figures but someone will be along tomorrow with the correct details.

45Nm + 90 degrees sounds better than 145Nm.  These are stretch bolts which is why you shouldn't reuse them.

I don't have access to reliable torque specs any more to confirm.  I do still have a Mk2 Haynes I can check later if no-one else confirms in the meantime.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

45Nm + 90 degrees sounds better than 145Nm.  These are stretch bolts which is why you shouldn't reuse them.

I don't have access to reliable torque specs any more to confirm.  I do still have a Mk2 Haynes I can check later if no-one else confirms in the meantime.

Cheers Tom, just managed to get a hold of two from the Ford dealership. About to head home now and get to fitting it, if you happen to come across the torque spec in your manual that would be really helpful 

6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

45Nm + 90 degrees sounds better than 145Nm.  These are stretch bolts which is why you shouldn't reuse them.

I don't have access to reliable torque specs any more to confirm.  I do still have a Mk2 Haynes I can check later if no-one else confirms in the meantime.

Managed to get ahold of this, unsure if it’s specifically correct for the 2009 Mk2 focus though, but looks very similar (obtained from focusstoc.com)

15 minutes ago, EastLondonLiving said:

Cheers Tom, just managed to get a hold of two from the Ford dealership. About to head home now and get to fitting it, if you happen to come across the torque spec in your manual that would be really helpful 

Whoops, completely forgot about this!  My Haynes also says 45Nm + 90 degress.  

Just now, TomsFocus said:

Whoops, completely forgot about this!  My Haynes also says 45Nm + 90 degress.  

You’re the man! Thanks for all the help guys, last thing I want to do is overtighten and shear another.