Hello to my trusty Ford friends,

I kept getting a low humming bell type sound from the front left wheel when driving normally, or intermittently when turning. I do sometimes feel vibrations in the steering wheel, but it doesn’t pull to one side or anything, I don’t know if this is related or typical. 
 

Before the MOT I mentioned the sound and how it was different to a break squeal, and then at most contaminants on the disc or pad from when I’ve recently replaced, which is easily sorted. 
 

On the MOT he’s flagged Front Nearside Suspension Arm Ball Joint little play. I suspect this may be the culprit for the noise. If anyone could confirm this would be the case this would be helpful to know I’m barking up the right tree so to speak.

Money is tight, as I’m sure it is for many out there, so sourced a Suspension Arm for £50-80 odd, but then furthered it by sourcing a Suspension Arm Ball Joint for £30-50.

Ideally I know it’s best to replace the whole arm and in pairs, but as I’m on a budget would it be feasible to dremel off the rivets that connect the ball joint to the suspension arm, punch through the remaining rivet and then replace with the new ball joint and bolts/washers with thread lock. 

Would a front wheel alignment be totally essential after this? Or would ensuring it’s set in the right spot as previous be enough to do the job? 

Any tips or hints would be appreciated thanks all. 

Hi,

Ball joints don't hum, they knock and rattle over rough surfaces.  Humming will be something rotational.

Must admit, I'm not seeing the money saving in buying a wishbone and BJ separately.  As a complete pair they would have cost less, and it's a major hassle trying to get through the rivets to change the BJ.

If you replace the BJ separately then the tracking probably will be wrong afterwards.  If you replace the whole wishbone there is less chance of that.  And if you replace both wishbones together they should both be identical meaning that even if they are slightly different lengths to the original, it should be even across the steering rack.

10 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Hi,

Ball joints don't hum, they knock and rattle over rough surfaces.  Humming will be something rotational.

Must admit, I'm not seeing the money saving in buying a wishbone and BJ separately.  As a complete pair they would have cost less, and it's a major hassle trying to get through the rivets to change the BJ.

If you replace the BJ separately then the tracking probably will be wrong afterwards.  If you replace the whole wishbone there is less chance of that.  And if you replace both wishbones together they should both be identical meaning that even if they are slightly different lengths to the original, it should be even across the steering rack.

Humming may be slightly off, a metal whirling moreso, if that makes any sense. 
 

Can’t say I’ve noticed a knock or rattle, just assumed this was the culprit as mechanic shrugged and mentioned it may be grinding as there is a little bit of play, and this was the only minor on the MOT.
 

Yeah it makes sense to replace both suspension arms when put like that, Cheers as always @TomsFocus

 

Stumped then as to what the whirling sound from the front near side is then, it possibly sounds like it could be across the two wheels at some points but mainly from the passenger side. Where the suspension arm ball joint has a bit of play. ….Ill keep inspecting …hoping not a wheel bearing, or possibly both, or possible driveshaft/s, …I’m a little out my depth troubleshooting, but getting there 

Ok so POA is to replace both suspension arms, as I’ve sourced a pair for £50 from eBay. 
 

Ford Focus Mk2 suspension arm pair - EBay

 

I intend to purchase new nuts and bolts for when I replace but running into a wall.

I believe this would consist of

- 1 x ball joint nut / 21mm 

- 1 x front arm fastener bolt / 18mm

- 2 x rear arm fastener bolts / 15mm

Does this all sound about right? 
 

Also does anyone know the torque specs for these bolts & nut? I’ve got:

- 1 x Ball joint nut - 60nM

- 1 x Front arm fastener bolt - 115nM

- 2 x Rear arm fasteners - 120nM

Any help would be appreciated thanks fellas

Are you sure your ball joints are 21mm?  Some pre-facelifts were 18mm.

*Edit*  Ignore this post, I've confused your car with another forum member.  Facelifts all seem to be 21mm.  (Though I still wouldn't rely on that 100%).

19 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Are you sure your ball joints are 21mm?  Some pre-facelifts were 18mm.

*Edit*  Ignore this post, I've confused your car with another forum member.  Facelifts all seem to be 21mm.  (Though I still wouldn't rely on that 100%).

I’m going to double check before I order. Pretty sure I remember using a 21/22mm spanner before after the socket wouldn’t fit. Looks like a crow foot set is the way to go.
 

After a good search I’ve found a pair of arms (21mm) with all the bolts / nut for 70 odd quid. 
 

I must say from the pictures the bolts don’t look up to much, I.e. very shiny, obviously cheap and with no blue thread lock on. I’d obviously rather these not just shear after a 5 mile drive so…
 

Would I be better off using the old bolts or using the new ones and putting my own lock thread on and seeing how they hold up? 

That feels like 6 of one or half a dozen of the other! 🤔

I probably did reuse the bolts on my Mk2, but wouldn't recommend it to others.

I also wouldn't use any new bolts that I didn't trust though.

Wouldn't worry about being pre-threadlocked as I always had a stick of this in the toolbox.

35 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

That feels like 6 of one or half a dozen of the other! 🤔

I probably did reuse the bolts on my Mk2, but wouldn't recommend it to others.

I also wouldn't use any new bolts that I didn't trust though.

Wouldn't worry about being pre-threadlocked as I always had a stick of this in the toolbox.

@TomsFocus yeah I have some of that gear laying around too ha. 
 

Any ideas where to source some of these bolts / nut from? Because £20 for 3 bolts and a nut is ridiculous. Will be costing me the same for two lots as the pair of suspension arms.

3 hours ago, EastLondonLiving said:

@TomsFocus yeah I have some of that gear laying around too ha. 
 

Any ideas where to source some of these bolts / nut from? Because £20 for 3 bolts and a nut is ridiculous. Will be costing me the same for two lots as the pair of suspension arms.

£15-£20 for a quality set is about right unfortunately.  If you don't want to pay that then use the cheaper ones or reuse the originals as you suggested before.

On 10/17/2025 at 3:57 PM, TomsFocus said:

That feels like 6 of one or half a dozen of the other! 🤔

I probably did reuse the bolts on my Mk2, but wouldn't recommend it to others.

I also wouldn't use any new bolts that I didn't trust though.

Wouldn't worry about being pre-threadlocked as I always had a stick of this in the toolbox.

Tom do you think the stick versions are better than the liquid? Plan to pick up this one myself to try.

57 minutes ago, sonic113 said:

Tom do you think the stick versions are better than the liquid? Plan to pick up this one myself to try.

Yes.  Easier to apply the right amount in the right place and can't leak all over the toolbox.

Car is noticeably making a creaking type sound from the front passenger tyre now, just after driving over bumps and driving slow, almost definitely the suspension arm ball joint is shot from guessing. 
 

I guess I’ll be changing these a lot sooner than expected. The steering feels like there’s quite a bit of play now and noticeably so after bump, vibrations in the cabin and steering wheel have also increased.

Will let you know how it goes! 

 

27 minutes ago, EastLondonLiving said:

Car is noticeably making a creaking type sound from the front passenger tyre now, just after driving over bumps and driving slow, almost definitely the suspension arm ball joint is shot from guessing. 
 

I guess I’ll be changing these a lot sooner than expected. The steering feels like there’s quite a bit of play now and noticeably so after bump, vibrations in the cabin and steering wheel have also increased.

Will let you know how it goes! 

 

The sound I have narrowed it down to sounding like I have an owl hooting under my bonnet

On 10/17/2025 at 3:57 PM, TomsFocus said:

That feels like 6 of one or half a dozen of the other! 🤔

I probably did reuse the bolts on my Mk2, but wouldn't recommend it to others.

I also wouldn't use any new bolts that I didn't trust though.

Wouldn't worry about being pre-threadlocked as I always had a stick of this in the toolbox.

@TomsFocus did you ever come across the actual Torque specs for the:

1x Tie Rod bolt - 50Nm

1. Suspension arm ball joint bolt (21mm) - 50/70/85Nm ? 

2x suspension arm bolts (15mm) - 115Nm ?

1x front arm fastener bolt (18mm) - 175Nm ? 

 

My numbers are all over the place for a definite on these

9 minutes ago, EastLondonLiving said:

@TomsFocus did you ever come across the actual Torque specs for the:

1x Tie Rod bolt - 50Nm

1. Suspension arm ball joint bolt (21mm) - 50/70/85Nm ? 

2x suspension arm bolts (15mm) - 115Nm ?

1x front arm fastener bolt (18mm) - 175Nm ? 

 

My numbers are all over the place for a definite on these

I don't have access to digital torque specs any more unfortunately.

I do have a Mk2 Haynes manual that I can check tomorrow.  Unless you've got one yourself?

12 hours ago, EastLondonLiving said:

I have an owl hooting under my bonnet

Lift the bonnet and let it out. Make sure you do it after dark, owls are nocturnal. 😉

Photo from my Haynes if required.  (Click to zoom).

On 11/5/2025 at 2:35 PM, TomsFocus said:

Photo from my Haynes if required.  (Click to zoom).

@TomsFocus very much appreciated thanks Tom, luckily they’re the numbers I torqued to. 
 

I finally got around to completing the task today, which went off mostly smooth. Realigning the new suspension arm bolts was a bit of a fiddle but got there in the end. A long screwdriver helped shimmy the arm into place with a bit help by adjusting the steering wheel left n right. A raised jack under the ball joint to replicate the car weight helped, after the bolts were dry fit. 

Noticed a massive improvement when driving after, stability wise and next to no vibration in the steering wheel.
 

However I did noticed the brakes were a tad slow to respond at first, but I did give the discs a good blast a clean with brake cleaner, so may have just been that burning off. Also I noticed a bit of a jolt forward when slowly breaking to a stop, any ideas what this might be? 
 

Im thinking possibly, -

the suspension arms need to be torqued again with the full weight of the car on? 
 

the new suspension arms may now be showing up a tie rod end issue? 
 

read somewhere could possibly be a loose brake calliper? 
 

As always any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks all 

 

 

 

On 11/5/2025 at 7:53 AM, pcaouolte said:

Lift the bonnet and let it out. Make sure you do it after dark, owls are nocturnal. 😉

Haha Here in East London, it’s advisable not to leave home after 5:30pm unless it’s a matter of survival 

Sound is back after doing both suspension arms. Usually just after going over a bump, sounds like a squeaky rocking chair. Also noticed when reverse parallel parking when far locked to the right, the sound gets very loud. 
 

Think the next logical thing would be the wheel bearing?