Hello!

 

Love my 11 plate galaxy. Its my first powershit gearbox though! .. for the record the car only owes me around £350 so I don't care too much what happens to it. Its a lovely titanium model with all the space you could need. It does have problems though which is why I got it for what I did. I replaced a few things and MOT'd it.

 

My seatbelts keep getting damp? Is this likely to be the panoramic glass roof leaking? Is it more likely to be the silver rails on the roof? Or simply the door rubbers?

 

How often do the DPF injectors/vaporiser cause problems? This one keeps regenning more often than it should. I've ran forscan but it doesn't really tell me WHY its regenning more often.

 

The gearbox plays up (SHOCK) but strangely only when its warmed up! I know it had a fluid change about 20k miles ago for sure, and the oil was said to be dark. If I let off the throttle in traffic too quickly, it can sometimes jump out of gear for 1 second and then goes back into drive! It has never ever done this when cold and does NOT do it every single time when warm neither. I would have thought its related to the solenoids/mechatronic unit maybe? 

 

It also has a weird RPM surge when coasting. Its the strangest feeling. Its not even when the gearing is due to change, its bang in the middle at 13/1400 revs, the revs bounce up and down .. up and down? I cant find much out for this issue other than the odd comment saying it might be the clutch packs! Again .. I can floor it from a rolling 5/10mph and this gearbox does not appear to struggle or slip.

 

 

Fifteen+ hours and no response so Welcome to my 1p worth on bits I know a little about!

Had a new vaporiser at about 80k (5 years ago) very common issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3QMoloelvE
Check it isn't blocked as that can prevent regens or get it to try more often, and fail.
Otherwise you'll need to use Forscan and live data to check differential pressure, vaporiser and pump operation etc.
Jimmy's videos make lots of good suggestions.

Alan Howatt reckons 150k for injectors Mk4, if I read him correctly (he services taxis) one of a couple of relevant videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnJAn0izK58&t=26s

From what you say, gearbox hasn't been well maintained so may need another oil and filter (rip it apart to check, it should be grey paste only) - kit from Westway Lubricants on eBay? Must be done to correct procedure, again, Alan has a video.

Again, Forscan can display some transmission parameters but, apart from a fork and clutch re-learn (suggest strong justification needed?) there isn't much else external.

Always need a good, fully charged battery and wiring check from PCM  to transmission - otherwise it's very expensive!

Why do so many, including us, use the word love for Galaxy/SMAX 😉

 

 

 

Thanks for the reply, bud. 

 

I need to take a look at my vaporiser then, I think! I ran the forscan while driving and a regen started and dropped one of the soot values to around 20 .. cant recall which value it was, but after the regen it kept creeping back

up very quickly, like a couple % every mile or so.

I'm sure both the soot load went down, and another value 

 

Keep it simple, check the vaporiser is clear: clamp fuel pipe (to avoid need to prime) blow through if you don't have vacuum pump . It should not hold any pressure.
Check glow plug resistance and both fuses.
Forscan can monitor if it is commanded on.
What are differential pressure readings off, idle, 3000 rev?
That rate of rise sounds high - any fault codes?

Thanks for your reply! I have since ran forscan while driving and the results are somewhat telling. So both my CAT TEMPS on idle (engine warm and on the road for 20 minutes or so) were 125. Is that correct for idling? When the DPF regen started, the smoking started and the fan kicks in BUT only for about 1 mile! Then it stops and tells me engine malfunction on the dash. Forscan reports CAT TEMP BANK 1 did not reach temperature sufficient to complete regeneration! 

With regards to replacing the exhaust temperature sensor or the vaporiser, how do I get them off ... because last time I ever tried to get a cat sensor off it rounded the nut, seemed seized almost.

I don't know if those idle temperatures are correct BUT they are far too low for a regen to start.
Temperature probes may or may not be an issue but my suggestions are below (they may react after tests below are complete)
Again, what are the pressure differential values: engine off, idle and 3000 rev/min as this is the direct way to assess the DPF condition (everything else is calculated/measured from that.
And, again, it doesn't look like the vaporiser or pump or fuses in whatever combination is working so that IMHO is the next thing needing checking before the DPF gets too badly loaded to clean either by normal regen or on-car foam cleaning.
Need to avoid forced regens if at all possible?
Also have you done Jimmy's finger on exhaust pipe check (if very sooty, DPF is cracked)
As also said, these are what I suggest  - others may differ (but no one else is looking?)

Hi mate 

 

I shall grab some values for the dpf and post them shortly. 

In case I'm out (but appreciate your data)...

My perceived wisdom (such as it is):

What causes DPF to become blocked?:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkREDv0k1GM&list=WL&index=1

1. Glow plugs
2. Low coolant temperature (90 degrees required?)
3. Exhaust gas temperature sensors (200 degrees+ for start of successful regen? 400-600 degrees during the process.)
4. Blocked or otherwise inoperative vapouriser (including fuses) or pump.
5. Differential pressure sensor malfunction (or pipework splits, blockages etc)
6. External temperature sensor.
7. Low fuel level (if light is on, ECU will prevent regen)
8. EGR valve malfunction
9. Throttle body malfunction.
10. Engine oil dirty (diluted on some models) or overfilled.
11. Turbo hose split.
12. Short trips (but 60-80 short, half mile trips required, ameliorated by perhaps 1, 25 mile trip?)

And:

Differential pressure:

• Engine off 0 mBar (sensor sanity check)
• Idle 2-10 mbar (0.2- 1kPa)
• 3000 rpm, 40-80 mbar (MAX 100 mBar, 10 kPa)

Coolant temperature must be high enough for a regen to start (around 90 degrees C?)
A regen can takes place at 100% and will not be possible once the soot load approaches 300%
Avoid forced regens if possible  due to risk of cracking core
Check Fault codes for any sensor issues.
Eliminate any intake/turbo air leaks which will effect fuelling etc.
Engine needs to be at specific conditions e.g. coolant temperature etc. (if thermostat is stuck open, regen may not take place)
Ambient air temperature sensor must be working correctly as it is also a required input.
DPF regen takes place at 550-650 Deg C
Active regen can start at 350 DegC
Post injection of fuel can provide higher temperature BUT fuel then contaminates the oil, diluting it.