Hi

I have a 2.0l S-max and am having trouble with it starting after short journeys or if it has been running for short periods of time. I have change the starter motor and also the fuel filter but it’s not solved it. I have also changed the crankshaft sensor as that came up as a potential issue on some searches

The engine just won’t fire but after 5 to 6 goes it will eventually start. Up to starting the starter motor turns but nothing else happens.

I’ve checked the earth connections I can find (based on another search for issues) but they are not corroded.

Any ideas on what I need to look at or what the issue could be? Is it garage job?

Cheers

As no one has replied, I'll say Welcome!

If starter motor is turning reliably and speedily, that rules out things like starter, battery , main leads, solenoid, earth leads. starter switch or key?

What engine and petrol (is there a 2l petrol - I don't know?) or diesel and what is the history?
As you've changed the filter there could be a problem with air leak (diesel and strongly dependent on which filter you have as one type can easily get the O ring in wrong place) check for bubbles in diesel fuel line.
"We" will likely recommend checking codes and then live data with Forscan with my starting points being cam/crank sync, speed of cranking (controls diesel injectors) , fuel rail pressures against demanded (petrol and diesel) spark (petrol D'Oh!)

If you are diesel it might be the anti shudder valve or the EGR valve. These are real easy to test. Next time it doesn't start, go and firmly tap the pipe where the anti shudder valve is located. If this solves the problem a few times reliably then you have a sticky valve. You can easily remove it and give it a clean, or if the pipe is a bit warped and it still catches while clean you can use a small file to just shave a little off the edge that it's catching on. Hold it up to the light to see where it catches.

If hitting that valve doesn't work, you could see if it's the EGR. To troubleshoot this I've just popped a delete on it to see if the problem goes away, and if it does, first try cleaning, then replacing the EGR. You might get fault codes depending on the age of the engine but it will likely drive ok, and you'll soon know if it gets rid of the starting problem. Not technically legal though!

Thanks both.

It’s a diesel and in terms of its history it’s not done anything like this before. I found another post that mentions the anti shudder valve too.

I’ll have another play with it tomorrow.

I hope that you come back with a (positive!) report but I wonder if any codes actually show up because the valve commanded and actual positions won't match?
Also banging it may not be a long term solution.
Looking forward to hearing about this (in case I have the same problem!)

21 minutes ago, Shearers said:

I hope that you come back with a (positive!) report but I wonder if any codes actually show up because the valve commanded and actual positions won't match?
Also banging it may not be a long term solution.
Looking forward to hearing about this (in case I have the same problem!)

I've had both of these problems on a 2008 galaxy 2.0 tdci. No codes at all with either. I guess it depends on the age of the vehicle as to how sensitive and clever the computers and sensors are.

So before I took the valve off I gave it a tap before starting the car and it started after each time I tapped the valve. I then took the valve off to clean it up. It was pretty caked as you can see.

That seemed to sort it after I put it back together and started the engine a few times. I then left the car parked up for an hour and a half after taking it for a spin and it wouldn’t start again!!

Maybe I’ve not cleaned it enough or maybe something else is sticking on it. I didn’t file any edges like suggested as it seemed to move smoothly after I’d cleaned it off and sprayed it with brake cleaner.

Is it worth swapping the part out for a new one?

Yeah, mine was just as grim. I would continue to see if the tapping works on that valve. If it does just try shaving the edges off that disc just the tiniest bit. It only needs half a mm where it might be sticking. In situ it may not sit quite so relaxed as when it is out, and those forces may warp that perfect round whole a little more oval in an old engine, and then you'll get contact.

If the problem still persists, my next step would be the EGR. If that valve is filthy, the EGR is also filthy. It's a much bigger job, but most of the bolts on the EGR are easy, and removal can be done from the top if you remove the plastic bit below the windscreen. There is one hex bolt that is a nightmare though. It's underneath, and is borderline impossible to get a tool onto. When I did my EGR I failed to remove it. Once I was sure it was the only bolt left I actually just got a lever under the EGR and snapped it off. I'd spent about 2 hours trying to get at the thing, I was so angry 😂. I don't even know why it's there, it doesn't seem to add much stability on top of the numerous other larger bolts on the EGR.

Depending on the design, You Tube appears to have several removal videos that may help?
And for ours, 2011 there is a Forscan Reset intake air throttle valve learned values Service Procedure.

After cleaning the valve as best I could it still wasn’t working properly so I reverted to buying a new one. Fitted it tonight and it seems to be working properly and starts every time now so fingers crossed is all sorted.

Thanks for the comments and input on this post it’s been really useful and saved me having to pay for a garage to sort it.

Did you need to reset the parameters or just fit and forget?

Just a fit and forget. Didn’t get as far as plugging any diagnostics in.