Hello guys

Was trying to look at my air con compressor but noticed some sort of liquid on my engine mount.

Is this serious?

Never noticed this before

Thank you guys

@froggy8 This particular mount is often a hydro (rather than solid) type meaning it has a pocket of fluid inside the rubber to help isolate vibration even more than a solid rubber mount. Have you noticed any change in engine vibration over the last weeks or months? I'd change it, a replacement is about £50 and not hard to do. Plenty of DIY guides around.

No the vibration is still the same as when I got it new.

Ok, then maybe just change it when you feel like it, the rubber itself will still be doing some work. Something to monitor anyway

Just had a quick look at a video, I have to jack the engine??!! This might be out of my skill area!

Not as alarming as it sounds! I did that for the first time when I changed the clutch and flywheel on the (sloping) drive. It was a bit nervy but just watch a few videos by competent people, read up on it and think it through carefully first, take it step by step and check each step. It'll be OK. All you are doing is using the jack to take the weight of the engine while you are removing the mount and replacing it.

OK il give it a go.

Which brand should I get?

The engine mount is on the left so guessing I'm getting the left engine mount?

This is what il do in order

Spray some wd40 on the 4 bolts

Lift the engine slightly

Undo all the bolts

Take the old mount out

Use wire brush to clean where the bolt holes ate

Put new mount in

Put the long screw in

Spray copper grease on the long screws

Put bolt on the long screws

Put normal bolts on the end 2 holes

Does that sound right?

Really don't want to break my engine

Can't really vouch for brands other than Ford! I bought a Gates, but Hutchinson also reputed (French, so used to serving homegrown diesels) and I'm sure others are reliable.

My car is different. 1.8 TDCI, so I won't give you instructions, but as your leaking mount is not giving you trouble now (you said no increase in vibration noticed) there is no need to rush anything. So take advantage of that and take your time, weeks if you like, to do a little homework and think it through. And get the right part ... @catcar.info website and enter your VIN (thanks @TomsFocus !).

You can Google engine mounts forum BMW, or Mercedes, and find out which brand names come up regularly as reliable. That's what I do. You might get lucky and find a new unused Ford OEM one on eBay for a good price too, I managed that once.

11 hours ago, froggy8 said:

The engine mount is on the left so guessing I'm getting the left engine mount?

Parts are labelled as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. This is confusing for engine bay parts, but that mount is on the right. The left mount is a completely different shape, so you can't get them confused.

These mounts all leak eventually, I replaced the one on my Mk2 at about 9 years old. Bought a genuine Ford one back then, but they seem much more expensive now. Some of the cheaper aftermarket ones are solid rubber without the oil-filled centre. They are cheap and last longer but more engine vibration gets transmitted into the cabin.

Genuine Ford Focus C-Max Kuga 1.5 Tdci Engine Mounting Front 2015-2019 2111961 | eBay UK

I think the other brand apart from ford is febi which is 70 so with that link you sent me, the ford one is 90 with discount, only 20 pound difference so might just go for ford

Do I just jack the engine under the sump with block of wood?

Do I just lift it only slightly?

1 minute ago, froggy8 said:

Do I just jack the engine under the sump with block of wood?

Do I just lift it only slightly?

Yes. You're only really taking the weight, don't need to lift it high.

If the undertray is still fitted, you will need to jack up the front end to remove that first.

Brilliant!! Thank you tom

18 hours ago, TDCI man said:

You can Google engine mounts forum BMW, or Mercedes, and find out which brand names come up regularly as reliable. That's what I do. You might get lucky and find a new unused Ford OEM one on eBay for a good price too, I managed that once.

apologies, forgot to say thank you for your help @TDCI man

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes. You're only really taking the weight, don't need to lift it high.

If the undertray is still fitted, you will need to jack up the front end to remove that first.

do i need a block of wood?

also for the undertray, im guessing its got couple of screws to take it off?

6 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

do i need a block of wood?

also for the undertray, im guessing its got couple of screws to take it off?

Yes definitely need something to spread the load otherwise the sump can get damaged. Block of wood is ideal.

Undertray has about 5 screws across the front. But 2 awkward ones right at the back. Those are the ones it needs to jacked up for. All Torx screws originally, though some might have been replaced by now.

this is the video i am watching:

i know it says mk2 but at the bottom of the video there was this note:

This replacement procedure can be used for: FORD FOCUS III 1.6 Ti, FORD FOCUS III 1.6 Flexifuel, FORD FOCUS III 1.6 LPG The steps may slightly vary depending on the car design.

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes definitely need something to spread the load otherwise the sump can get damaged. Block of wood is ideal.

Undertray has about 5 screws across the front. But 2 awkward ones right at the back. Those are the ones it needs to jacked up for. All Torx screws originally, though some might have been replaced by now.

ok i will need ot find a block of wood.

i will be copying the video i have linked.

would you do anything different to the video or just do everything they do?

5 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

ok i will need ot find a block of wood.

i will be copying the video i have linked.

would you do anything different to the video or just do everything they do?

I haven't got time to watch the video at the moment but the job is the same on Mk2 & Mk3. I'll try to watch it later.

If you haven't got any wood yourself, I'm sure you can find an offcut in a skip nearby. Everyone seems to be having a new kitchen or bathroom near me at the moment! 😆

the part i am confused about is why that guy sprayed some copper grease on the bolts, i have done quite a few car work and never put any grease on any bolts. only time i have heard about copper grease is on drum brakes and wheel hubs.

2 hours ago, froggy8 said:

the part i am confused about is why that guy sprayed some copper grease on the bolts, i have done quite a few car work and never put any grease on any bolts. only time i have heard about copper grease is on drum brakes and wheel hubs.

Judging by the way he's splashing WD40 and copper grease around I'd say he's been told to upsell them for Autodoc! 😅

I wouldn't bother with any of the WD40 or copper grease used there personally. Copper grease prevents seizing, so there is some merit to using it on bolts that are likely to seize (such as suspension pinch bolts), but I can't see any need for it there.

I would do the same as the video except for removing the studs. I didn't remove them on either of mine. There was just enough room to wiggle the mount out.

If you do decide to remove the studs then make absolutely sure they are fully back in when refitted. I have seen the mounts crack and drop the engine on the driveshaft when lazy garages just gun the nuts off and back on without checking that the studs haven't moved. Also don't get any oil/grease/WD40 underneath the studs if it's a closed bottom hole. That would also stop the studs fitting correctly and risk cracking the mount eventually.

i think i know what you are talking, after taking the bolt off, the is this long screw thing that mount goes on?

just had a quick look and you are right, you can just take the mount off without taking the stud out.

thak you again for the tips tom

@froggy8 the thing is take your time. If you are unsure at any stage, think it through, watch a few videos (not just one), do a bit of reading (on this forum too), have a think, and reach out here if you get stuck part way. I would jack up the front of the car, placing jack stands as you go (also stuff on this forum about that), then take your time. I would do it during a time you don't need the car for a few days, even a week. That way you're under no time pressure. As for copper grease, yeah Tom's right, that guy uses way too much. Copper antisieze grease does change the torque settings though, and it's wise to knock off 20% from the torque setting if using alot (to avoid overstretching the bolts). I would use loctite blue (medium) thread locker on the front 2/3 of the bolt, which will be the engaged part of the thread and copper grease on the remaining 1/3 and head itself, which should prevent that 1/3 from seizing / rusting. Loctite also protects again rust by the way. Doing it that way, you can torque to spec as normal.

is the torque settings the same on the video? think its 55nm and 65nm if i remember it right