I'll try it on the next setting up see what I get then

Getting the right readings where I test so I'm at a loss here need to bite the bullet an get an auto spark in to it 😤

7 hours ago, Smoggy87 said:

Getting the right readings where I test so I'm at a loss here need to bite the bullet an get an auto spark in to it

If you are getting 60 ohms with the big C90 connector in place, and 120 with it disconnected, and all fuses are intact, then without any diagnostics working it is hard to say what to do next.

But double check the fuses first, there are several for the ECU in the engine bay fusebox, and two for the Cluster in the passenger fusebox.

F30, a little 3A job in the engine bay fusebox, is particularly easy to blow.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread but I'm having exactly the same problem as the OP on my 2008 1.8 Focus. I am awaiting delivery of a new battery so I'm hoping that fitting that and cleaning the earths will cure it. I'd better check fuses and relays as well. Unfortunately we are not told if/how the OP cured their problem but I guess it must be one of the solutions herein. New battery should arrive today so I'll see how it goes.

Fitted new battery today and everything is hunky dory! To be fair to the old battery I think it's been on since the car was born so it's done well for 11+ years. With the benefit and wisdom of hindsight I should, perhaps, have posted in this thread .

Here we go

I'm getting the system warning issue, it came on after a long drive in heavy rain, and has been intermittent since. We've a dry(ish) spell and the fault went then we've some more rain and the fault is back.

 

I don't its the battery as I'm driving best part of 2hrs a day 6 days a week.

I can clear it if get the revs to 1500, switch off and straight back on, and there appear to no other issues, any ideas?

 

7 hours ago, TDS.Cape said:

I'm getting the system warning issue, it came on after a long drive in heavy rain, and has been intermittent since.

There are many, many causes for that light to come on. To be able to help, some more info would assist:

What engine.

What are the codes (DTCs) stored. Any standard code reader will read some codes, but Forscan is the best system for some of the less common codes behind the Engine Systems lamp.

Check the battery terminal voltage at various times, to see if it could be an alternator fault, not charging the battery properly.

Hi

I have an ODB reader, but apart from the DPM warning (mmm?) it shows nothing.

It's 1.6 diesel zetec climate.

The battery went flat about 6 months ago, but its been okay since; on saying that I haven't put a meter on it, or got it checked. I've been doing between 500 and a 1,000 miles a week since September; I assumed that would solve any battery charging issues?

7 hours ago, TDS.Cape said:

I have an ODB reader, but apart from the DPM warning (mmm?) it shows nothing.

I am not sure what a DPM warning is. I did half suspect that a standard OBD2 reader might not pick up codes behind the Systems lamp, but for sure they will be there.

Being a 1.6 rules out one simple answer: on my 1.8, a broken hose to the MAP sensor put the Systems lamp on, it went off after any engine restart, had no noticeable other symptoms, and did not show on a standard OBD2 reader. it did show DTC P0299 on Forscan. But the 1.6 has no hose to the MAP sensor, it is plumbed straight in. And has different software anyway. However it goes to show that your symptoms are not uncommon.

I doubt if it is the battery. Alternator faults usually show on on the battery\charge warning lamp. If you can beg/buy/borrow or steal a multimeter, then it is worth a quick check. 12.4v to 12.6v in the morning before any load is applied (ignition etc) is a good indicator of a well charged battery. If the alternator was a bit dodgy, then miles won't help. But it does not sound like an alternator fault to me.

Forscan would almost certainly reveal the code, if used while the light was still on, or on the 1st start cycle after. I costs about £20 if you have a Windows laptop (for the ELM327 adapter, s/w is free), or about £30 to have it on a iOS/Andriod device. A garage would likely charge more than that for a single readout. A Fraud dealer up to £100.

s/w from: http://forscan.org/download.htm

One supplier of adapters: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/

Hi I got the same issues with my 06 automatic,engine system failure and acceleration reduction and complete dead turn over I checked the spark plugs and 2 were loose, so I pushed them in and it was fine for 1 day then the same fault came up. It runs fine even with these displays but it’s going in on the 18th, it’s not a car that has been abused so I’m quite concerned even though it is a06.

Hi out of the blue my focus auto 06 wouldn’t turn over with the system fault message, I checked the plugs and pushed them in, I heard them click in to place and figured that they had worked them selves loose and all was fine starting. The next day I noticed another message saying Acceleration Reduction, although the car still ran ok. It’s booked into my local garage next week but just wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them, thanks.

Good evening I own a ford focus sport t 06 plate hade a new clutch fitted by the garage about a month ago. Twice in one hour the dash has cut completely blank and the engine system fault light has come on. It has even dyed as I have din driving any ideas as to the issue?

 

My did the same and ended up being a fault with the instrument cluster as a flat battery doesnt normal give an error code

15 hours ago, Ian.w said:

ford focus sport t 06 plate

2006 is spot on for the peak time when the faulty Instrument clusters were made. There is tons about this on this site, quite a lot by me!, Bad soldering where the main connector joins the pcb is the most common cause. It was that on my car.

On 6/12/2019 at 12:44 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

PATS code 16 means communication failure between cluster & ECU. The main functions of the immobiliser are in the ECU, but the codes are read from the key, and partially verified, by the Cluster. They must talk over the HS-CAN bus to do this.

All diagnostic systems also use the HS-CAN bus to communicate with the ECU, and also to communicate with the cluster in most cases. The HS-CAN bus runs from ECU to cluster via other underbonnet modules like the ABS. The bus is basically a pair of wires, with 120ohm terminating resistors at both ends, in the ECU & cluster in this case. So the resistance measured between the pair should be 60 ohms, or very close. That gives one way to test the bus.

With the ignition off, measure the resistance between pins 6 & 14 in the diagnostic connector. Paperclips can be used as probes into the pins if needed. You can try hitting the fascia around the cluster to see if this makes it change. If it is 120 ohms, unplug the big connector in the engine bay fusebox. This breaks the CAN bus there. If it still reads 120 ohms, the fault is in the ECU or between ECU and the fusebox. If it rises to a much higher value, then the fault is in the cluster or between cluster and the fusebox.

The soldering of the can bus pins on the connector to the cluster is a rather common fault on 2006 Foci, I had it in 2016, and many others have too. So that is a prime suspect here. The resistance test above can help confirm it.

A little pdf I did is here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

The diagnostic connector pinout is below.

Hello, do you still have a copy of this pdf? 

10 hours ago, Breecook said:

Hello, do you still have a copy of this pdf? 

Hi,

Yes, and the link worked on my system just now:

https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

If that fails for you, I would suspect something, maybe an over-active virus checker, is blocking it.

It is a totally ordinary, simple pdf, just text & photos with no interaction or features that could be a threat.