Advice/help Needed!

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Hello, It's me again, I'm back after a long period of absence due to back problems....

Now, I need your help......

I am looking for a good version of IDS VCM, unlimited license. I have already the (copy) ROTUNDA VCM,I only need the SW (eg, version 76, 78, 80) unlimited license.

Have already had an earlier version, but that did not work well .....

It is my intention to increase turbopressure a little bit....


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can you do that through IDS??

I'd have thought youd be better off with the Galletto software etc...

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yeah boost pressure can be turned up in a simple remap...

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I will keep you updated. I think,I should better go to a tunigcompany......

I have read on the forum of a Hungarian Ford Club, you could do that best with the IDS. Perhaps to obtain a better alignment of the "adjustments" ...

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Is it a mk3 2.0L TDCI ?

Is it euro3 compliant or euro4?

Does it have an electronic or pneumatic (turbo) actuator?

Most remaps do not actually control boost pressure directly, they often increase the duty cycle (basically squirt more diesel in) of the injectors and this, in turn increases the energy from the exhaust which makes the turbine spin up faster meaning peak boost pressure is reached quicker (without actually increasing peak boost - the turbo reaches a "plateo" where increasing the boost pressure does not increase the gas-flow significantly anyway)

Are you running a stock turbo?

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It is a Mk3 2.2 tdci, EURO 4, with an ELECTRONIC actuator ( :) the black box) AND adjusted turbo...-larger impeller (+ / - 20% more air input), airtec I.C., CAF & piper cross airfilter, an empty kathalysator and FF running aprox. 195 hp / 400+ nm torque, top speed 240 km/h - 149 mph :)

oooww, and lowering springs& KONI shock absorbers

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Thats a similar spec to mine, do you have dyno printouts you could post on here?

Did you make the cold air feed yourself?

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I made the CAF myself, yes

Sorry, no I have'nt got the dyno printouts anymore.....

Here, you can see the CAF, besides the 'FORD' oval...


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Nice work - you probably know the tubing before the airbox is more restrictive than the filter itself

the air intake facing the airflow does not give any supercharge effect even at max speed - a NA F1 travveling at 200mph gets about 3% supercharge, that is with a big scoop and no air filter , any kind of filter negates this

the air intake facing away from the heat of the radiator/ aircon helps to reduce heatsoak though

I have a massive insulated CAIS intake going in through the "fog light" ive gas-flowed de-webbed my airbox as well

Did you gas-flow/ de-web your airbox?

You probably thought i wanted to see your dyno printout to see check figures (shame you don't have them ) but i am interested to see the effect the hybrid turbo has on the powerband and i also have this theory that with the euro4 engines with the electronic actuator the power drops off above 3500rpm

Im concentrating on making mine more "drivable" rather than "chasing figures" im getting mine dyno'd this year, im expecting about 180Hp / 400Nm my mate has a BMW 330D, it is 220Hp stock, he is getting a remap DPF/ decat - to 270Hp (and a "mountain" of torque) the (stock) BMW is RESTRICTED to 155MPH - i like my Mondeo, though - but im never going to get BMW330D power out of it (no matter how much work i do on my car)

mine is a "sleeper" estate (looks "ordinary") - a 330D looks like an M3 (not so good as a "sleeper")

i never drive over 130, (safely off road, of course :D - )(just kidding- clean licence for 9 years) but i got a revised map (Superchips did a special one for me/ my cars unique modifications) and i timed a 5.3 second 50-70mph in top recently - for me, thats more use to me on UK roads than a high(er) top speed

Of course with the electronic actuator the ECU has direct control over the actuator and the boost pressure

On similar setups upping the boost may require higher flow/ modified/ bigger injectors (hard to get) (the injectors become the limiting factor - no matter how big the turbo compressor/ boost is) - unless you run alternative fuel

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you probably know the tubing before the airbox is more Restrictive than the filter itself?? To be honest, I did not know . :huh:. oopsI've driven awhile without filter and that was indeed a difference. However, unfiltered air ..... I do not know. I already thought about mounting a mosquito into the inlet mouth & leave the filter behind....should I dare to try it?

the air intake facing away from the heat of the radiator/ aircon helps to reduce heatsoak..In any way, I've not the impression that the inlet(air)temperature = high: max. 40° at full load.

ive gas-flowed de-webbed my airbox as well ,Did you gas-flow/ de-web your airbox? Sorry, what do you mean by this?? I have not done it, i simply connected the airtube onto the airbox-inlet, that's it.

i also have this theory that with the euro4 engines with the electronic actuator the power drops off above 3500rpm....well, that I experience also...

Mine is also a sleeper(Panther Black HB), no "outside-tuning" ,exept 18" wheeling & 225/40 hi speed AVON'S ( during summer)

I frequently feel "the need for speed", then I go towards the German autobahn (motorway), there is no limitation on speed, so I can play freely ..Than, it is a pleasure to drive the Mondi. :)

Of course, the other aspect of the mapping (torque) is also great,

I can also highly appreciate that.

Yes indeed, they are hard to find, I'm also looking for them (injectors)

In Belgium there is someone with a 2.2 tdci which is mapped upto 250 bhp.

The person who did it: , a.k.a.David "Streetperformance" Daniëls

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In the UK we are stuck with thev 70MPH limit on motorways, unfortunately

I followed the Streetperformance 2.2, and copied some of its modifications, i thought it was scrapped now

It used a very large hybrid turbo, a solid flywheel from a transit, and the artec FMIC, it was a euro3, David recommended retrofitting a euro 3 ECU/ setup to a euro4 2.2 TDCIs

When you open your air filter/ box up there are "webs" on the lid and on the bottom of the airbox, these can be removed/ smoothed out -


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Was he stopped, then? As far as I know he is back in business ...

Ah, now, I know what you mean .... no, I have'nt done that ...

oww...i've forgotten something of my mod's: the SMF, of course....

I think I'm gonna contact David....

What I also consider= to cool the inlet-air even more BEFORE it goes into the intake manifold.

I tought about a second circuit of air coolant somewhere near (or into) the manifold....

Difficult, perhaps.

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David was active on the UK scene a few years ago, the u-tube videos where his 2.2 was leaving st220s for "dead" are old too - i tried to contact him last year with no success - i heard his Mondeo was in bits/ scrapped too (it was written off in the Norshcliff?, ard rebuilt)

You could insulate your inlet manifold with exhaust heatwrap and use a waterspray on the outside of your intercooler to cool the charge better or use a water/ air intercooler (like a Focus RS mk1)

(any kind of additional intercooler/ device may restrict the gas flow/ cause a pressure drop- e.g.- a second intercooler in series)

if you use an EGR blanking plate in the normal place, and a second one on the EGR cooler, you can then remove the egr pipe, this will help keep the inlet cool and the exhaust hot, reducing the volume between the exhaust valves and turbine, helping the turbo spin up faster (a little)

Heatwrapping and/ or ceramic coating the exhaust manifold decat and downpipe will help reduce underbonnet temps and radiated heat into the compressor, (reducing heatsoak) as well as increasing scavenging and retaining heat- energy into the turbine (again helping the turbine/ turbo spool up quicker)

i have done or are in the process of doing these modifications on my car

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You can try again, to contact him by cell, I think, e-mail is not his "thing" :D

Now, if I see what you have done already and /or planning to'nt it just easier to increase the turbo pressure by SW?

Removing the EGR pipe, I've thought about that, but everyone said I was crazy to do that. And, of course, At the annual inspection,in Belgium, the car will be rejected 100 %. That's why I want to change as much as possible via SW.

Sprinkle water on the intercooler has also crossed my mind, but, in my eyes it's a huge thing to do...just like the waterinjection into the intake manifold...

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I have a digital electronic boost controller, so i don't have to turn the boost up in SW, it goes up to 120psi, it has 2 stages, i can turn it up or switch stages as i drive (from drivers seat) as well as the 2 stages, it has a 3rd or "stock" defeat stage, so i can compare it (or if it fails) it massively improves the turbo lag/ midrange power/ torque (hence the 5.3 second 50-70mph in top gear)

it is microprossesor controlled, and has an anti- lag programme, and transient overboost, fast target locking 400mhz bus speed etc, i have a seperate anti- lag system as well (that works even with the bosst controller switched off )

- its normally used for JDM cars (Nissan Skylines etc)

The external waterspray works well (especially in hot weather) there is something called the latent heat of evaporation (why it works) - it is safe and easy to do (unlike water injection )

i don't run an artec (or other larger intercooler) because of its large internal volume increases lag (in theory) the bumper bar on the Mondeo "masks" part of the intercooler (if it is taller than the bottom of the bumper) my intercooler just fits under my bumper - it is an all aluminium lightweight high-flow drag racing one - as far as i am aware mine is the only one fitted to a Mondeo - i would like to test it back to back with artechs etc (on "track"/ on dyno) - in theory throttle response is improved and the waterspray gives it the performance of a much larger intercooler (its bigger than stock, of course)

You probably guessed im not a big fan of turbo-lag

Yes, taking the EGR pipe off would be crazy,(sarcastic - i did a total EGR delete 5 years ago) And fitting a hybrid turbo, massive intercooler and driving at 150mph is perfectly sane! :lol:

In the UK the EGR is not nessesary for the MOT - in fact it often helps (reduces smoke, which is measured) the tester is mot allowed to remove covers (like the engine cover)

Some people (im not condoning this :rolleyes: ) have a "setup" for the MOT that is removed at other times (cats on petrol cars etc)

Most Mondeo diesel owners only do a remap / bluefin/ tuning box, a bigger IC, and the exhaust (decat , and mabee a free flow exhaust )

I like to experiment myself and get my "hands dirty" / try new things, its more for a bit of fun or an intiectual challenge, than making the fastest Mondeo diesel.

I was running a tuning box for years, i made a custom/ 1- off remote for it (to turn it up or down) the idea was i could turn the fuel up/ down with the tuning box and the boost/ air up/ down with the boost controller - i optomised these settings by timing the acceleratoin

recenty i got a bluefin to replace the tuning box, this "lost" the bottom end (car used to pull strongly from 1k or 30mph in top) but more power/ revs at the top end

Superchips did me a special map to suit my modifications and preferences, i explained i wanted maximum reliable power and was not bothered about smoke and the transmission can handle everything the engine could throw at it, unrestricted (solid flywheel, carbon fiber/ kevlar clutch upgraded heavy duty backplate, sprung plate) ive got a short- shifter, too (worth doing on the Mondeo)

The new/ revised map has made a big difference and the car is really "flying" (it has a few other modifications i have not mentioned), i don't drive as fast as you anymore, though :P

i never "got into" remapping myself, im into "old school" tuning - mabee in the next life.....

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Now that I've read your explanation, I have learned a lot. Now, that " digital electronic boost controller" has my full attention..I am interested. Expensive? And where for sale? Is it easy to fit, how does ik work? In fact, that's all i need, it gives me the performance just the way I like it :), altough I am gonna miss the "turbo-boost"

Do you have the waterspray? Is it possible to show some pictures?

However, what does concern me is the gearbox & transmission ....How much torque can it have?

And I don't wonna change much to it. What is the weakest part of the transmission, the gearbox, I believe.

I have a FULL blankingplate in the EGR, i don't have any smoke, not a bit.

What's a short shifter? short gear ratios?

Some pictures of Beethoven's mondy included.

As you can see: a sleeper..






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Hello again, my electronic boost controller works by sensing the boost pressure in the intake manifold/ boost pipes after the intercooler, it has a digital microprossesor that interprets the data and controls a solenoid (at 400hz- four hundred times a second)that then controls the air fed to the pnuematic actuator and then the wastegate - it is completely seperate from the cars' electronics, but works alongside them, it has a 120psi solenoid so theoretically could work up to that PSI it has a digitally mapped - anti-lag programme built in - it outperforms any other system (in my opinion) - it was very expensive (designed for drift racing) but somtimes when you get the "best" it saves you wasting money messing about changing several "lesser" ones

the boost controller has 2 fully adjustable stages, + a defeat/ fail: safe (if the boost controoler fails/ powers down the turbo actuator still works)

Unfortunately it won't work with your car/ engine, unless you retrofit a pnematic actuator, i have seen electronic boxes that connect to the MAF sensor that "up" the boost pressure, on cars with electronic actuators

Incedentally the anti-lag system (seperate from the boost controller, which has an anti- lag programme) works by dumping the air out of the (pnumatic) actuator when i lift - off the throttle, this means when i go back on the throttle,(after a gearchange or "lifting off" ) the wastegate is always already shut, so boost can build up quicker (anti - lag)

"short shifter" "quick shifter" - the gear lever is shorter, with a shorter "throw" (often with re-positioned/ adjustable pick-up points) gears can be changed quicker, and more positively, if you are trying to change gear quickly you are also less liable to "miss" a gear, - it can reduce your 0-60mph/ 0-100mph times/ gearchange times a little (on the autobann , of course :) )

The external waterspray is very simple, it is just the same as a windscreen washer spray, but it sprays on the intercooler - i made mine out of spare parts- you could too (its easy) it does not need any special map/ setup, i saw it on "top gear" on a Mitzibushi EVO, it works well on a hot day, or sitting in traffic / waiting for your 1/4 mile run etc (reducing heatsoak)

Your car looks good! those wheels are heavy though, (22kgs, with tyres- same as ST 18" wheels), you would be better with mk3 Mondeo titanium X 18" wheels (20kgs, with tyres) or early 16" tyres (17.4kgs, with tyres) or what i run, steel wheels (also 17.4kgs)

the lighter wheels reduce the unsprung weight, and the rotating mass, narrower tyres reduce the mechanical and aerodynamic drag (but can reduce grip on takoff/ cornering) - the mk3 titanium x wheels are wider AND lighter than your wheels (by 8kgs overall) the (17.4kgs) steelies i run save 18.4 kgs (of overall weight, unsprung weight, and rotating mass)

not having the spare wheel/ jack/ brace saves another 20kgs (i use a footpump and tyre foam) and the weight off the back improves the traction

to list all the other modifications (or just the weight saving items) would take pages and pages, but briefly, the weight saving is about 150kgs, the lighter wheels/ no spare alone is minus 48.4kgs, the decat/ exhaust is minus 9.5kgs the aircon (never used it!)is 11kgs (i removed the pump and fitted a shorter aux belt - no rattling pullys now - and reduced rotating mass ) 6kgs lighter battery etc, etc

the - 155kgs increases the payload, improves MPG and reduces wear on tyres, suspension etc, the handling is transformed and it feels like a different car.

because the car is 155kgs lighter, the (stock) brakes work much better

I could take a lot more weight out, but it might affect traction, all the door cards, electric windows, trim radio, etc are still there, (remember its a "sleeper" so has to look "normal") but i plan to replace all the glass windows on the back with perspex (save about another 20kgs) (- 175kgs)

The 155kgs weight saving means it gives the equivelant power- weight ratio of a 210bhp Mk3 hatch/ saloon,(if my calculations are correct) i have a load of parts/ modifications filled, i hope to make it the fastest accelerating of its kind when im done (the in gears/ midrange is quicker than a stock st220 but not the 0-60/ 0-100/ top speed, at the moment)

ive already fitted the (elictronically controlled) electric waterpump (faster engine warm up, , less parasitic power loss, better control of temps runs independant of engine/ after shutoff if nessesary (so fan not required, again saving weight )

Im still getting 40mpg and i really enjoy driving it - it just looks like an old Mondeo estate with steel wheels (well it is) but it often puts a grin on my face in spite of (or because of) this :)

Keep in touch and let us know how you get on with your car/ project - very interesting!

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That's the difference between you and me: You want to gain "power" by removing parts :blink::huh: :o and / or making them lighter, so the total mass of the car is less.That is not my thing: I prefer using the car in all it's comfort & add/change things to gain power.

But the main goal is that we all enjoy driving our car, isn't it?

I've already been in contact with David -SPR, the plans are ( for the moment ) : increase turbopressure (how?????) and the search of adjusted (larger) injectors. He said to me: I want to make your mondeo the fastest mondeo mk3 tdci.driving around in the BENELUX! :blink: :blink: Well, I hold him to that

For the moment, David is driving a 2.2 tdci estate black....

Best regards

Edited by beethoven
to keep your privacy I have removed the email address from the post, if you want to share it with a particular member, please use the PM function. this will save your email address being added to a spambot list...

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hello people, it's been a while since I've posted something.

But we have not been idle.

Efforts have been made to the mondy: interior (Speakers KENWOOD vs OEM FORDS PREMIUM), exterior (rear bumper ST TDCi) and exhaust line has changed to COBRA & pipe instead of cath. Custom made injectors(+ 25/30% more than usual)

Further plans: soon inlet TDDI (more air volume), EGR physical removal and last but not least: "finetune" remap.

For the moment, I have about 210 hp/ 465 torque, it must go up!!!

top speed for the moment: 235/240 kms/h

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