Not really driven the focus much in stop/start traffic for a while, but had to trek into central london today!!

Seem to have an issue during low speed driving in 1st/2nd gears, whereby when I come to brake to stop and dip clutch, the revs drop to around 500rpm and car feels like it is about to stall. car then hunts for revs and goes back to normal idle. A Couple of times I maybe over revved so it didn't cut out and then let off the throttle and rev needle dropped and the battery light flashed on.

I did have a similar issue a few years back and ford found a fault with throttle body and replaced it, so wondered if could be this again?

Really didn't enjoy driving out of london today, kept thinking it was gonna die on me.

Mk2.5 focus 1.8 petrol duratec titanium.

It might be that, but it also it might be coils or sparks. When did you service it?

Could be a faulty idle air control valve or the PCV valve sticking/ getting gummed up ocasionally it could be a split in the breather hoses

Serviced a month ago with new sparks.

have you tried cleaning throttle body?

have you tried cleaning throttle body?

not yet

Would you know how easy is it to do please?

Just got in from work and 5 mins before reaching home engine light lit on dash. seems hesitant and missing in 2nd gear so maybe sparks? Get it in the garage in the morning. reckon this car is cursed had so many issues with it over last 3 years

I dont believe you have an idle control valve... I think you might have to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor. Its pretty easy to do.

Pop the bonnet and disconnect the Mass Air Flow hose from the Air Filter box, then unscrew the Torx screws around the airbox and remove from the engine bay.

Where the Hose connects to the Air Filter, remove this area, there is one Torz screw central / underneath the MAF housing and 2 screws above. Remove this completely, and with Electrical ontact cleaner, spray the sensor wires generously, let it dry and repeat this a few times. Then reconnect in the reverse order.

I dont believe you have an idle control valve... I think you might have to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor. Its pretty easy to do.

Pop the bonnet and disconnect the Mass Air Flow hose from the Air Filter box, then unscrew the Torx screws around the airbox and remove from the engine bay.

Where the Hose connects to the Air Filter, remove this area, there is one Torz screw central / underneath the MAF housing and 2 screws above. Remove this completely, and with Electrical ontact cleaner, spray the sensor wires generously, let it dry and repeat this a few times. Then reconnect in the reverse order.

Hey jeebo

Would this cause the engine light? It seems to have a stutter/miss fire in 2nd gear

It can do. I disconnected my MAF sensor (after cleaning the sensor and forgot to connect it again!) Drove it gently it was fine, but when I moved quick the light came on, so I had to reconnect and clear the code...

Basically, the MAF sensor is a hot wire. The car keeps it hot with a certain amount of electrical current, and the faster the air travels over it, the more air the car knows is there. It does its maths and works out the air intake. But, a dirty, or faulty MAF sensor would have its readings hampered, so when your accelerating quickly in the early gears (specifically second, as that is where a lot of the grunt is) if the car cannot read the air intake properly, it cannot respond accordingly, so the readings are delayed. So when you put your clutch down, any dirty could be keeping the sensor hotter, thus telling the car there is more air than actually is, and the revs can go off. Also, when you put your foot down and demand more from the car, it cant get an instant response, so doesnt respond because of this...

It can do. I disconnected my MAF sensor (after cleaning the sensor and forgot to connect it again!) Drove it gently it was fine, but when I moved quick the light came on, so I had to reconnect and clear the code...

Basically, the MAF sensor is a hot wire. The car keeps it hot with a certain amount of electrical current, and the faster the air travels over it, the more air the car knows is there. It does its maths and works out the air intake. But, a dirty, or faulty MAF sensor would have its readings hampered, so when your accelerating quickly in the early gears (specifically second, as that is where a lot of the grunt is) if the car cannot read the air intake properly, it cannot respond accordingly, so the readings are delayed. So when you put your clutch down, any dirty could be keeping the sensor hotter, thus telling the car there is more air than actually is, and the revs can go off. Also, when you put your foot down and demand more from the car, it cant get an instant response, so doesnt respond because of this...

Thanks jeebo

I will get them to look at that.

Thinking about it, 1 thing I did notice on way to work this morning!

was that when coming to a junction, braking, dip clutch and stopping the revs stayed above 1000 rpm for a few secs or so. I found this a bit odd as Usually when I come to a stop the revs drop to normal idle 750.

Thinking about it, 1 thing I did notice on way to work this morning!

was that when coming to a junction, braking, dip clutch and stopping the revs stayed above 1000 rpm for a few secs or so. I found this a bit odd as Usually when I come to a stop the revs drop to normal idle 750.

The revs, and tickover are controlled by the ECU which decides what revs the engine should be at, depending on the temp/ conditions/ situation etc, the throttle is just a potentiometer, like a computer mouse or the volume control on a stereo - that sends the ECU signals - it does not control the fuel/ throttle body etc directly

the tickover revs change depending on engine temprature, there is an anti- stall programme too, the ECU can detect when the clutch is depressed (so it can tell it a joke to cheer it up ) it has programmes to stop you revving the engine when the clutch is in, or the engine is i neutral, and to stop you "slipping" the clutch in gear, and to back off the power when you change gear, it cuts the fuel on the over-run to save fuel/ emmisions

It may be worth getting your codes read to see if thre are fault-codes

Thanks

I understand the ECU controls the revs etc. but the issue I on the previous post was definately different to how the car has behaved for the last 3 or 4 years. usually as soon as I come to a standstill the rev needle always drops to normal idle 750RPM once braked to a stop.

Anyway going to take it to the guy who serviced it a few weeks ago for him to have a look. It hesitated a little in 2nd gear last night but as soon as I got up to 60mph / 70mph it drove down the A13 fine - no power issues.

Even drove fine on the way home tonight until.....then the Engine management light lit and then the miss fire/stutter. Don't really want to drive it but have to take it 7 miles in morning to garage.

Have done the dash trick and no dtc codes showing (strange...???) although engine light is permanently lit. Car idles fine got live revs data and that was fine.

Not sure what code reader my mechanic has hopefully sophisticated enough.

Attached are some pics I have just taken. Is the part I circled in red the MAF??

Its not odd for the lack of error codes. The trip computer only accesses certain codes, such as the instrument cluster, rather than the ECU itself. This is why you tend to use other error codes, such as a cheap / generic reader, or a specific code reader.

If you drive the car gently you should have no problems, as long as you dont floor it!

That does look like the MAF, but I am on a cack screen so cant say for definite lol.

This is from ford!

Hello Gregg

This vehicle does not have a MAF Sensor

There is a TMap sensor on the Inlet manofold..

or alternatively there are Engine Air Shut Off valves

The first thing i would do is clean the throttlebody because its free and 70% of the time that sorts the hunting on most cars. But that doesn't resort the battery light problem what area are you in and you can plug in to my scanner and see codes?

The first thing i would do is clean the throttlebody because its free and 70% of the time that sorts the hunting on most cars. But that doesn't resort the battery light problem what area are you in and you can plug in to my scanner and see codes?

Thanks, am in essex mate so a little far.

Got engine management light on now so going to drop it at garage in the morning and he has a code reader so will see if/what codes it shows.

The only other thing I thought was ignition coils, not sure if these were changed with sparks. But then when I have had that issue on my 54 plate fiesta I can always smell petrol and this is not the case on the focus. Also it is idling ok and only seems to be in 2nd/3rd gear

Started up car this morning and engine light went off, drove fine to garage. Guy had a good look over for me, plugged in code reader and following fault code came up.

P2008 intake manifold runner control circuit/open (bank1)

TMAP makes sense, You should be able to remove and clean that also?

Drove it to lakeside today and back 50 mile round trip no issues. It may be one of them intermittent issues! could have been a glitch, been a lot of moisture and rain around here recently which could have affected things maybe? Will drive it for the next couple of weeks instead of the missus ;-) and keep an eye on it

This is from ford!

Hello Gregg

This vehicle does not have a MAF Sensor

There is a TMap sensor on the Inlet manofold..

or alternatively there are Engine Air Shut Off valves

The bit you thought was the MAF sensor must have been the throttle body - thought it looked a bit "chunky" for a MAF

A T-MAP sensot is a combined intake-air-temprature sensor (the "T" bit) and MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor,

Interestingly enough, my car has a T-MAP and no MAF sensor either, but is a turbo-diesel, and is quite rare in not having a MAF sensor (all the other similar models had one)

the t-map can be contaminated with oil from the breather, i think it is safe to be taken off and cleaned with petrol

Let us know mate how the car goes, hope is everything fine.