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Brake Pipe Changing


harveyjw
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hi all, 2nd post and straight in with loads of questions sorry!

started changing brake pipes today, took ages to get the old ones off.

have lost skin on knuckles, arms look like a torture victim, shoulders ache like hell, and knees look like i have been sliding around on gravel. but i did have good fun smile.png

problem im concerned about is i had a container to catch all the fluid escaping, and i thought the reservoir had been sealed off properly, but on clearing away for the night, i found out it had bled dry into the container. questions i have

when bleeding what will i need to do with abs pump?

can i just refill reservoir and bleed away ?

is there anything else i need to be careful of?

abs pump is my biggest concern and the master cylinder, last thing i need is damage to them.

i have two options for bleeding eezibleed kit and a one man pedal pressing kit, have read all over the place eezibleed shouldnt be used on mondeo, why is that?

sorry for all the questions, just want to get it right first time and not have to replace or rebuild anything else

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cant see a reason why eezibleed will cause any harm so long as pressure is kept low, but would try to bleed as normal with the one man kit first to be on the safe side.

its possible that air can get trapped in modulator which may possibly need to be plugged in and solenoids activated in order to rid it of air...but only way to find out is bleed it manually and go from there

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if air does get stuck in the abs pump how do i activate the solenoids to clear it?

read in haynes manual they need to be 17nm, some places i have no chance of getting torque wrench in there. reading the internet, some say hard as hell, others say bit of lube and then finger tight, with a 1/3 or 1/6 turn of a spanner. any advice

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if you mean the brake pipe connections, have never torqued these on any car, just tighten them without using excessive force..check for leaks once system is bled by inspecting the connections with the brake pedal pressed down hard.

if necessary, solenoids will need to be activated by diagnostic equipment

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ok cool thanks.. have now fitted the first sections of pipe running down the car, they are slightly to long but im sure i can lose that.

will it matter if the pipes aren't dead straight, and have a slight wave to them during the mot ?

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ok cool thanks.. have now fitted the first sections of pipe running down the car, they are slightly to long but im sure i can lose that.

will it matter if the pipes aren't dead straight, and have a slight wave to them during the mot ?

yeah its easy to loose a little bit in the bends around the fuel tank.

No, the pipes look very unsightly but it will not cause any issues at an mot. Even if you have to cable tie the pipes above the fuel tank will be fine for mot.

there are a few techniques for straightening the pipe but not so easy if you have already started fitting it.

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ok thanks, just looks messy next to fords lovely smooth straight fuel lines!

now my next problem!! (sorry)

over the tank or rerouting... have tried to slide it around the side of the tank like the old ones, but not enough space for hands to get it right. if i decide to reroute has any one got a path they used and works perfectly? or just drop the tank

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ok thanks, just looks messy next to fords lovely smooth straight fuel lines!

now my next problem!! (sorry)

over the tank or rerouting... have tried to slide it around the side of the tank like the old ones, but not enough space for hands to get it right. if i decide to reroute has any one got a path they used and works perfectly? or just drop the tank

I take it you are using copper?

I can't remember exactly how mine route around the tank but there is no need to drop it or anything drastic. IIRC there was spare clips already fitted but I did need a couple of cable ties above the tank to stop them rattling around.

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yes im using copper.

i shouldnt say my original went over the tank as they really went around the back of it inbetween tank and sub frame. i have tried to get them back in that way but my hands are just way to big for the little holes and the heat shield gets in the way on the tank.

only way i can go about that route is to remove or just lower the tank. have looked at other routes, but everything will be much longer near double the length or comes near moving parts.

be very interested to see a pic of someone elses rerouting and get ideas

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cant help with the rerouting, but wont they go back same way/method you removed the old ones?

re mot...pipes need to be secure and no danger of fouling anything that might cause them damage, such as suspension, exhaust..etc..would also make sure they dont hang too low so keep them snug to the frame...no problems with extra twists and turns etc, so long as you follow the above.

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where they were steel and also really badly corroded, once unclipped they more fell out with a gentle pull.

also slightly worried about bending the pipe to much and it weakens,

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an idea that might be of some use...bit hard to picture your actual dillema...but how about a screwdriver/lever to encourage the pipe into the clip...use plenty of grease on the pipe, cover the screwdriver with a generous coat of pvc tape for eg..and just gently press into the clip...or something along similar lines

one other bit of advice, make sure pipe doesnt route too close to exhaust, last thing you want is heating up the brake fluid ;)

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thanks :D will try that tomorrow!!!

if i take fords route it doesnt go near exhaust which is great. just need the tank to move forward 3 to 4 inches lol

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sorry, not trying to teach granny to suck eggs here, but one other thing...avoid having the brake pipe resting hard against the metal, as vibration will eventually wear the pipe thin...if unavoidable, protect the pipe with a bit of hose sliced down the middle and wrapped around the pipe...thought better mention it

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say for example theres a really tight section, thats tapping the metal chassis would it be ok to pop a cable tie round it cut long end off and place the thicker clamp side against the chassis. would that work the same as trying to get hose in there

Edited by harveyjw
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say for example theres a really tight section, thats tapping the metal chassis would it be ok to pop a cable tie round it cut long end off and place the thicker clamp side against the chassis. would that work the same as trying to get hose in there

I would rather use a bit of pipe sliced down the length of it as suggested or use a bit rubber and cable tie it on. That said, is there no way you can bend it slightly to clear it?

Just make sure you don't have any long sections of pipe without any supports. If it wasn't miserable weather this week I would try get you some pics. My route doesn't involve dropping the tank or anything like that.

I take it your pipes are already made to length?

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soon as finished work went straight out there.

tried everything to get the pipe behind tank, hands just to big, so dropped tank which was really easy, with a few little snags. but all in all tanks back on except one strap which i need more hands to do, so managed to recruit mate tomorrow to do bolt up as i hold it in place. it needs some serious brute force on the strap as its slightly warped. filler neck clip was the hardest part, spent 5 mins scratching head and then 10 seconds undoing it hahaha

not as productive as i would like, one side just needs hooking onto flexi hose, and other side still needs second pipe putting on.

where can i buy the rubber hose to act as a support for the pipe is it something Halfords sell ?

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"where can i buy the rubber hose to act as a support for the pipe is it something Halfords sell ?"

if your talking about the hose to protect a pipe where it is against metal...any small bore hose will do, such as fuel/vacuum/washer pipes...most car parts/accesory shops should be able to supply you with something.

only need to fit short sections, as its sole purpose is to hold the brake pipe away from the metal where you cant safely bend and secure it away.

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brilliant thank you. managed to get some brake line clamps today, but far as i got lol.

next day off is tuesday, so will be cracking on with it then

been very lucky havent needed the car at all

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quick update and a check on wether or not my routing will be acceptable

this is the drivers side. does that need more support?

th_20140408_131425_zps2e3826cc.jpg

as it goes under the chasis i have placed a clamp

th_20140408_131454_zps02cc9a2c.jpg

it then follows fords route to side of petrol tank where it connects to the main line from the front.

th_20140408_131510_zpsf55febab.jpg

thoughts so far any improvements i can make for it

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after doing the passenger side, i decided to shift the drivers one around a bit. didnt go mad as didnt want to bend the copper to much

th_20140408_155829_zps539680bd.jpg

and finally the passenger one which im really proud of lol

th_20140408_152809_zps1470c973.jpg

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looks all fine, only suggestion i could make is in that pic with the two pipes running side by side, if possible, get a clip to ensure the pipes dont rub against each other, similar to the clips that you normally see for the ht leads...alternatively, just fit a couple of short hose sections to the pipes.

apart from that, all seems good

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ok cool and thank you

have ordered some brake pipe clips from ebay. they come in packs of 5 with 2 per strip; can cut them down and place them in a few places as ford clips are quite a distance apart, and use them purely to keep the pipes separated, or can drill the holes and fit them properly. will investigate closer to sunday as thats next day i have off

didnt get to bleed them as fuel tank needs a couple of new jubilee clamps and i got the wrong ones. Once they have been replaced I can move car back a couple of foot and start bleeding

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your looking to reduce any vibration in the pipes to a minimum, so any long gaps between pipes being fixed to body, it would pay to add an extra clamp...including anywhere that pipes run alongside each other, looking to keep them apart as vibrations can cause them to rub together.

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