matty2280 Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 hi everyone I have a 56 reg 2.2 tdci with an oil leak coming from or around top front of timing belt cover has anyone got any ideas on what it could be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Ford did not make a Mondeo2.2 tdci in 1997, (probably a typo in your profile) but i take it its a mk3 if its a 56 - It is likeley to just be from the crankase breather, or the rocker cover gasket, (annoying, messy but not too serious -as long as you top the lost oil up ) another possibility is the power steering pump is leaking (check to see if the power steering fluid is going down) Exessive pressure in the crankcase may have caused the leak, this may be due to back-pressure (blocked exhaust/ CAT or DPF if fitted) worn bores, too high an oil level, oil surge (very high centrifugal force - like racing) exessive boost pressure due to a fault or "hard" tuning or simply a blockage in the breather hose(s) or a rocker cover gasket failure due to exessive heat poorly fitted,/ materials rather than exessive pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty2280 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 lol yeh it was a typo its a 56 reg I will take timing cover of to have a look to see if there is any signs have got intermittent coil light flashing and p0405 code coming up don't know if these are related Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 lol yeh it was a typo its a 56 reg I will take timing cover of to have a look to see if there is any signs have got intermittent coil light flashing and p0405 code coming up don't know if these are related EGR valve fault - has the EGR had a blanking plate fitted? the Euro4 electronic EGR valves are always playing up, some owners have gone through 4 EGR vales in the time they owned the car, they are extortionate from Ford and even Jag - x-type ones (2,2 diesel, same engine as Mondeo) are cheaper, personally would not have a working EGR valve on my car, though You need a solid plate - the ones with the holes are no use The (amber) coil light acts as an EML (engine management light) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty2280 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 cheers foca no egr isn't blanked I was just going to clean it out and hope for the best might fit a blanking plate is there any downsides to blanking of the egr as I am going to fix the small probs then look at trying to up the power from the engine a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 cheers foca no egr isn't blanked I was just going to clean it out and hope for the best might fit a blanking plate is there any downsides to blanking of the egr as I am going to fix the small probs then look at trying to up the power from the engine a bit Yes, yours is a Euro4, if you fit a solid blanking plate, the EML is liable to come on sooner or later, some have reported it coming on almost straight away, others say it takes days or weeks, some say they have managed to drive around it (the EGR opens in a "zone", at specific revs, part-throttle) The EML can be re-set with a code reader, it can be annoying for some for the light coming on and having to reset it, but much better than running without the solid blanking plate There is very little point in cleaning out the EGR valve itself (or the asociated small - diameter piping that runs around the engine) as once the plate is in place nothing will flow here - the main body of the valve (which is a realatively small part realative to the inlet manifold) and the inside of the inlet manifold needs cleaning out - the inlet manifold is easy to come off - i have found a (industrial steam and foam) jetwash is best for cleaning it out A remap (including bluefin) makes the biggest/ best difference - even on a stock car, then a back box delete (it is the most restrictive part of the exhaust, including cat) then a decat, (you would brobably have to replace the back-box with a straight-through silencer) - a K&N makes no difference and i have figures showing how a(n Airtech) bigger intercooler slows the car down (in gear acceleration) you can do the boost hoses and fit lowering springs - after that its probably un-economic but some have fitted hybrid turbos, water/ meth and nitrus injection etc etc one chap got 260Hp/ 500Nm (you will need to ditch your DMF- that torque will chew it up) The remap alone makes a big difference, i would just do the back-box delete and decat, you could fit a stainless exhaust, no point in going over 2-1/2" (stock is 2-1/4") twin exit exhausts just add weight (no technical advantage - a single one flows better too ) that can be considered a cosmetic mod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty2280 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Just an update took off egr and inlet manifold not much build up about 5mm but it was slightly oily is this right ? If it is a faulty egr would a blanking plate stop eml coming on because it's going into limp mode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOCA Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Just an update took off egr and inlet manifold not much build up about 5mm but it was slightly oily is this right ? If it is a faulty egr would a blanking plate stop eml coming on because it's going into limp mode 5mm is a lot because that narrows the passageways, the oily deposits are from the crankcase breather. which sticks to the carbon from the EGR, forming an oily goo A solid plate might stop the car going into limp made, if the EGR is siezed open/ not closing, Limp mode and the EML coming on may happen at the same time, but are 2 different things and the EML may come on without limp mode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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