I have just fitted a new Turbo actuator, had the turbo cleaned and the lever moves freely. I am lacking a significant amount of power, and only have to go up a small hill and have to change down from 6th gear. I was taking my car to the garage for them to have a look at the lack of power, and on the way it went into limp mode with code 2263 (turbo boost problem). I really thought I had sorted this out now after another actuator fitted. The actuator moves freely when the car is revved out of limp mode, but sometimes does not move at all ? As this is the second time I have had this issue in a matter of weeks, I cannot understand how it could be the same problem as before. I have checked the lever to the vains on the turbo and they are free (no sticking, notchy feel). I was thinking that the loss of power and the actuator problem could be caused be something else. My thought is is where do the wires come which go into the actuator, maybe this could be the problem, and could be why the actuator doesn't seem to work properly????

I am really getting frustrated with this now and don't know what to do next ??? I am loathed to go out and buy another actuator when I may have the same issue ???

Any thoughts ???

Actuator controls the not vanes... Not something to be changed unless you can accurately adjust it to the exact same setting as the old one... My guess is the vanes aren't operating correctly as it has not been adjusted properly.

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The VNT vanes/ mech tend to get coked up with carbon - to fix it properly you may need to remove the exhaust manifold assembly and clean the vanes/ mech (oven cleaner works well, and apparently mr muscle)

Reducing the amount of carbon (eg smoke) the engine produces (eg- by fitting a solid EGR blanking plate/ keep the car serviced regular ) can help make the vanes last longer between cleaning - if the car does a lot of round town / sedate driving the VNT mech is more liable to play up a bit sooner

Is it a pnumatic or electronlc actuator?

The wires go to the ECU (on the euro4 / electronic actuator) these can be a real pain

You have the same problem as before probably because it was never fixed

If the fault lies elswhere (eg the VNT vanes) you could go through 100 actuators - its a bit like changing a fuse when you have a short (eg- changing the fuse does not solve the problem) - you must find the route cause of the problem

I have received my old Actuator back, after having it reconditioned. The car is running without going into "Limp mode". It is however still lacking power and is misfiring slightly. Also only getting 37 mpg, probably because I have had to rev it more? I have put fuel cleaner in the tank, but I reckon I will have to change the fuel filter to make sure fuel will be okay going through the system. I will also blank the EGR off again, as I un-blanked it to see if this was causing me power loss.

The car was serviced not too long ago, and has been running great until this actuator problem "Turbo boost issue".

Maybe it's just a coincidence that now I have power loss, and mis-firing?

I have received my old Actuator back, after having it reconditioned. The car is running without going into "Limp mode". It is however still lacking power and is misfiring slightly. Also only getting 37 mpg, probably because I have had to rev it more? I have put fuel cleaner in the tank, but I reckon I will have to change the fuel filter to make sure fuel will be okay going through the system. I will also blank the EGR off again, as I un-blanked it to see if this was causing me power loss.

The car was serviced not too long ago, and has been running great until this actuator problem "Turbo boost issue".

Maybe it's just a coincidence that now I have power loss, and mis-firing?

the ECU controls the actuator which controls the VNT vanes, that control both the peak boost pressure and the way the turbo picks up from low revs

The problem is the VNT vanes/ mach(anism) is tn the exhaust manifold - so gets coked up (with carbon from the exhaust) this happens sooner if the car is driven sedately or produces more smoke than it should the vanes have a range of movement and on one end is "pottering" (at low revs) and another is "flat out acceleration" (high revs/ high load - (high load means uphill/ high gear / accelerating flat out, redlining it through the gears etc))

If the engine is not "booted" the VNT tends to not be used very much in the "high speed" part of the VNT range - so is more liable to stick or sieze - thats why an "italial tune up" helps - not driving at 70 on the M-way but a good hard thrashing redlining it through the gears (on a racetrack if you have one handy)

When the VNT mech sticks/ jams or siezes, it can be intermittent, or can stick at one or other end of the VNT (so too much boost, triggering limp mode, or too little boost)

When the VNT mech sticks/ siezes it can damage the acctuator (hense you could damage many actuators untill the mech is fixed)

The VNT mech is in the exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold has to be removed and the VNT mech stripped/ cleaned/ rebuilt or replaced

assuming that is the problem / there may also be other problems too

What did your service involve? (in detail, leaving nothing out)

Hi,

I had a good look around the engine and noticed the turbo pipe from the intercooler to the EGR valve has a hole in it. This I assume will explain the lack of power. I have ordered another pipe which should be here today. I taped up the pipe with really strong tape and took the car for a spin, and it went really well, no loss of power at all. I can only assume this is the cause of the car going into "limp mode", as I have fitted another actuator. "Limp mode" only used to happen when the engine was hot and had stood for up to a couple of hours. After more than two hours when the engine had cooled down, it ran okay. Never had "limp mode while driving, it was only at start up. The service was all filters, engine flush and oil, and a general inspection. I will also blank the EGR valve again when I fit the pipe.

check hose that comes from egr valve.ford has major problem with them splitting

I have fitted another hose from the EGR valve to the intercooler and all is well now.

I do however still get issues with the actuator, "limp mode".

I now turn the engine off, open the bonnet, pull the clip off from the actuator arm, pull and push the turbo actuator lever and it all works fine after that.

I'm sure there is a problem with the vanes clogging up and sticking the actuator ?

Cleaning the turbo out, firing cleaner through it, does not seem to losen the vanes ?

The motors on the actuators are not strong enough, hence the sticking ?

Apparently there is a modification which you can do on the turbo vane hosing (drilling a hole and putting cleaning fluid in that way), then taping a thread and fitting a plug in the hole.