Well I attempted to change the suspension over last weekend, the plan was to change all the shocks for monroe reflex and eibach lowering springs, I got as far as changing over o/s front and rear shocks and springs, n/s rear shock and still have the old ones on the front left reason being as I can't get the bolts off on the suspension spring control arm as the bolt has Rounded off and also the front strut bolt has also done the same thing

Anyone know how to remove them??

Were you using hex sockets? Bi hex or 12 point are no use.

Have done a few of those pinch bolts on the front struts where people have made a poor attempt at removing them.

First thing would be to give it a good soak with a good penetrating spray such as plus gas. Some heat on there would also be a good idea, try to get the bolt as hot as possible to break the corrosion.

There are various methods of actually removong a rounded/destroyed bolt. From using a spiral socket to welding a nut on.

If you can get a set of mole grips on them that might help shift them, or hammering on a slightly smaller socket so it's gripping the bolt head tightly again.

Unfortunately if the bolts haven't been touched since the car was built they'll not have any grease or lubricant on them to help avoid them rusting up over time.

A good dunt with a hammer also helps to shock the corrosion.

A good dunt with a hammer also helps to shock the corrosion.

As Stef said, but use 2 hammers,, 1 at the back of the nut held against it then smack it with the other hammer.

I'll give all ideas a go, although I'm sure the bolts would have been of in its life time as the shocks I took of were KYB and I can't see ford fitting these as standard on ford c max.

I would soak it in wd40 to loosen and also hit it with a mallet or hammer, then with mile grips try loosen it. If all else fails hammer a smaller socket onto it and you will be able to remove it with that hopefully.

I would soak it in wd40 to loosen and also hit it with a mallet or hammer, then with mile grips try loosen it. If all else fails hammer a smaller socket onto it and you will be able to remove it with that hopefully.

Tried all the above, I even heated it but don't think it was hot enough I then purchased irwin bolt removers well they worked for the front bolt on the front strut but not the rear, the rear bolt is not straight enough so when I put the bolt extractor on it it's off centre so will need to grind it down a bit on that side and hopefully get the tool on it.

Can't think of any other way it's really doing my head in, wish people wouldn't do up bolts using air guns!!!!

Can you get in with a big set of stilsons?

Can you get in with a big set of stilsons?

I hired a set on 36" stilsons but the top of them are too big unless i can put it on a ramp but I'd say even that would be touch and go.

I hired a set on 36" stilsons but the top of them are too big unless i can put it on a ramp but I'd say even that would be touch and go.

UPDATE:

Well managed to get some movement on the bolt but the bush on the arm is well and truly weilded on to the bolt and with some persuasion the nut snapped of, so I now have the reminder of the Bolt still attached to the arm.

Ideas of how to get the bolt out?

I've ordered a new suspension arm.

The usual problem like you have just discovered is that the bolt practically welds itself into the sleeve of the bushing.

It's now a case of cutting and drilling whatever you can to remove it.

The usual problem like you have just discovered is that the bolt practically welds itself into the sleeve of the bushing.

It's now a case of cutting and drilling whatever you can to remove it.

Think I'm just going to give it to a garage to sort out, loosing my temper with it at the moment. Never seen anything like it.

Is there any way of cutting through the other end of the bolt so that the arm comes out along with the section of bolt which is rusted into the bush?

If you've got another arm coming then the one on the car can be considered expendable as long as you get it out.

You'd maybe still need to use an extractor to get the last piece of bolt out of the thread on the subframe etc but you might even be able to do this from the opposite end and it may not be as difficult to free off compared to trying to get the whole bolt free of the bush.

Is there any way of cutting through the other end of the bolt so that the arm comes out along with the section of bolt which is rusted into the bush?

If you've got another arm coming then the one on the car can be considered expendable as long as you get it out.

You'd maybe still need to use an extractor to get the last piece of bolt out of the thread on the subframe etc but you might even be able to do this from the opposite end and it may not be as difficult to free off compared to trying to get the whole bolt free of the bush.

There is now space between the arm and rear hub as it's been moved and cutting of the end bolt is the only option I think, by doing this should free up the rest of the bolt and push out from the other side. Fingers crossed,, should get the arm tuesday Wednesday but it's going in to a garage to do I'll end up smashing the car up it something else fails on it.

Apart from that it's looking very nice from the front as its lowered evenly lol.

Update : well it's been done all lowered looking lovely. Ride quality is spot on not as bad as I thought just one problem..............

When I turn right and the rear dips there is a clunking noise from the rear left, I've looked underneath and founding nothing that is fouling anything I can only think it's the exhaust pipe over the axle

Anyone have any other ideas?

Have you had a look at the anti roll bar bushes?

Have you had a look at the anti roll bar bushes?

No I didn't look that far, would they make a clunking noise? What would I be looking for?

Yes they can do. Have a look at the ends of the roll bar but more so the D bushes that hold it to the rear subframe.

Yes they can do. Have a look at the ends of the roll bar but more so the D bushes that hold it to the rear subframe.

I've replaced the stabilisers that attach to the end of the roll bar, I'll have a look at the D bushes.

I was wondering if it could be the lower suspension arm the one as there are two, one that looks like a boomerang and a straight one its the straight one I'm thinking off.

I've replaced the stabilisers that attach to the end of the roll bar, I'll have a look at the D bushes.

I was wondering if it could be the lower suspension arm the one as there are two, one that looks like a boomerang and a straight one its the straight one I'm thinking off.

I've replaced a few D bushes in the past, after complaints of clunking when cornering or hitting pot holes. You may be able to see if there is wear on them.

It could be those arms, use a large pry bar and wiggle them to check for wear or play in the bushes

I've replaced a few D bushes in the past, after complaints of clunking when cornering or hitting pot holes. You may be able to see if there is wear on them.

It could be those arms, use a large pry bar and wiggle them to check for wear or play in the bushes

Knowing my car all the bushes need replacing lol. I'm guessing the car needs to be lifted to be able to get any movement on the bushes?

Yeah it will need to be lifted.

Yeah it will need to be lifted.

Update: right I jacked up the car and pulled and levered some suspension components but not enough to warrant a clunking noise, I replaced the rear stabilisers before the car was taken to the garage so knew they were done up tight and had no noise before so I thought I'd check these and the top nut was loose!!!! Could this be what was causing the noise?? I tightened it up checked also the otherside and that was loose as well so did that one, put the wheels back on took it for a test drive and hooray no noise

Well I certainly didn't hear anything lol. Shall check it over a few days see what happens.

Cheers for all the advice

Certainly could be the culprit. Anything on suspension should be a locking type nut