2 hours ago, Solverz said:

I'll check his shop out! And the amp and yaris sound/look well good!, how long did that take 😅

 

Also regarding the wiring of the reverse camera and using the fuse amp rating to determine what cable to use, that is what I thought would be a good idea also but there is not an inline fuse included with the reverse camera sadly or should there be one thinking about it?!!

The yaris only took a few hours fitted with M8 carriage bolts and 1" diameter M8 penny washers on both sides of the bumper to broaden the grip surface prevent it ripping out, its wired with a relay to come on along with the high beam,

Heres the thread on that idea😂

I was behind it on the motorway last week here it is illuminating a bridge 😂

The focus I spent six months stock piling everything and planning it then took a four days on a bank holiday weekend; stripping out the interior using a Haynes manual and fitting it all in, my build thread is here: 

I've since moved on to the home improvement thread which is slower paced and alot more expensive:  

Last time I was buying 15amp cable; AutoStar didn't stock do I purchased from this listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VARIOUS-LENGTHS-2-CORE-RED-AND-BLACK-12V-12-VOLT-15-AMP-CAR-OR-SPEAKER-CABLE/142715868912?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=441708202442&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 

2 hours ago, Solverz said:

Also regarding the wiring of the reverse camera and using the fuse amp rating to determine what cable to use,

that is what I thought would be a good idea also but there is not an inline fuse included with the reverse camera sadly or should there be one thinking about it?!!

If your splicing or tapping in to an existing fused source such as the reverse light Positive; 

Then it's fairly ok because its already fused; no harm in adding another if you wanted but if you do add another; put it in an easily accessible location in the event it ever needs changing.

If splicing the camera in to a switched live feed as in a feed which comes live with the ignition;

Then the easiest way of splicing or tapping into that source is through the use of a piggyback fuse adapter which also gives the safety of the dedicated fuse. 

17 hours ago, Lenny said:

The yaris only took a few hours fitted with M8 carriage bolts and 1" diameter M8 penny washers on both sides of the bumper to broaden the grip surface prevent it ripping out, its wired with a relay to come on along with the high beam,

Heres the thread on that idea😂

I was behind it on the motorway last week here it is illuminating a bridge 😂

The focus I spent six months stock piling everything and planning it then took a four days on a bank holiday weekend; stripping out the interior using a Haynes manual and fitting it all in, my build thread is here: 

I've since moved on to the home improvement thread which is slower paced and alot more expensive:  

Last time I was buying 15amp cable; AutoStar didn't stock do I purchased from this listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VARIOUS-LENGTHS-2-CORE-RED-AND-BLACK-12V-12-VOLT-15-AMP-CAR-OR-SPEAKER-CABLE/142715868912?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=441708202442&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 

If your splicing or tapping in to an existing fused source such as the reverse light Positive; 

Then it's fairly ok because its already fused; no harm in adding another if you wanted but if you do add another; put it in an easily accessible location in the event it ever needs changing.

If splicing the camera in to a switched live feed as in a feed which comes live with the ignition;

Then the easiest way of splicing or tapping into that source is through the use of a piggyback fuse adapter which also gives the safety of the dedicated fuse. 

That main beam is crazy 🤪 😂, think I'd pull over if I seen that coming 😂

I'll he sure to check the other threads out, they look like fun interesting projects!

I am going to splice the camera into the reverse lights positive and negative wires as I don't have a long enough wire to route one from the fuseboard to hand but may give it a go if I managed to get it all working right.

Thanks for your help @lenney
You made my little project actually doable for me 😊😊

7 hours ago, Solverz said:

That main beam is crazy 🤪 😂, think I'd pull over if I seen that coming 😂

I'll he sure to check the other threads out, they look like fun interesting projects!

I am going to splice the camera into the reverse lights positive and negative wires as I don't have a long enough wire to route one from the fuseboard to hand but may give it a go if I managed to get it all working right.

Thanks for your help @lenney
You made my little project actually doable for me 😊😊

No problem mate,

I made the guides in my spare time across the years; it's nice to see there still of some use to people today, I appreciate the feedback 

How did you guys route the wires to the headunit? under the headliner or the floor trim?

I went for headliner then down the A-piller and under the glove box to stereo.

On 8/27/2019 at 9:47 PM, Solverz said:

How did you guys route the wires to the headunit? under the headliner or the floor trim?

+1 for the a-pillar route, the glovebox comes out nice and easy, just 7 screws and out it comes.

Watch out for the Air Bag on route !

 

ive given in, tried to do this today (im a complete novice) couldnt get the first trim off !!

and as i had problems with my back, it was hurting, so ive got the car booked in to be done

 

unless anyone else wants my money instead of them ? 😉

 

im just off Junction 6 M40

35 minutes ago, shiwarrior said:

ive given in, tried to do this today (im a complete novice) couldnt get the first trim off !!

and as i had problems with my back, it was hurting, so ive got the car booked in to be done

 

unless anyone else wants my money instead of them ? 😉

 

im just off Junction 6 M40

Too far for me to travel 🙁

I owe a huge thanks to my local automotive electronics installer whom charged me €650 labour to fit an Alarm system which I purchased online and provided him with for installation in my then Toyota Starlet,

Had he not kept the car for three days and charged me €650 I probably would have kept going back to him with other plans rather than learning myself and creating guides on here to best assist others rather than throwing money away. 

Very disappointed to read this. 

3 hours ago, Lenny said:

Too far for me to travel 🙁

I owe a huge thanks to my local automotive electronics installer whom charged me €650 labour to fit an Alarm system which I purchased online and provided him with for installation in my then Toyota Starlet,

Had he not kept the car for three days and charged me €650 I probably would have kept going back to him with other plans rather than learning myself and creating guides on here to best assist others rather than throwing money away. 

Very disappointed to read this. 

 

sorry Lenny if i have offended you in anyway

 

I've always been cack handed with things like this and my back hurts when trying to take the trim off as i have degenerative disc disease, so it is rather difficult for me to do

 

i really wanted to do it myself, i don't fancy paying him x amount and hour, but needs must

 

 

@Lenny

Did you happen to have a small gap after fitting the new handle/reverse camera?

1 hour ago, Solverz said:

@Lenny

Did you happen to have a small gap after fitting the new handle/reverse camera?

No, 

I'll get a picture of mine tomorrow it looks factory, is that a "connects2" branded camera?  

If it will push tight without obstruction; then you need to loosen the outter boot panel bolts the ones closest to the sides of the boot and tighten the inner bolts in order to prevent warping of the boot handle panel. 

It can look like that if not equally tightened; also take care not to turn too tight or they will pull through #ChinaInYourHands 

 

13 hours ago, Lenny said:

No, 

I'll get a picture of mine tomorrow it looks factory, is that a "connects2" branded camera?  

If it will push tight without obstruction; then you need to loosen the outter boot panel bolts the ones closest to the sides of the boot and tighten the inner bolts in order to prevent warping of the boot handle panel. 

It can look like that if not equally tightened; also take care not to turn too tight or they will pull through #ChinaInYourHands 

 

It's not a connects2 one but it looks exactly the same as your one in the photos.

I will give it a try but tightening the middle botls first

 

5 hours ago, Solverz said:

It's not a connects2 one but it looks exactly the same as your one in the photos.

I will give it a try but tightening the middle botls first

 

Sorry I didn't get time to take a picture of mine today; hopefully tomorrow evening as I'm working until midnight then again in the morning 

4 hours ago, Lenny said:

Sorry I didn't get time to take a picture of mine today; hopefully tomorrow evening as I'm working until midnight then again in the morning 

It's all good ☺️, I just appreciate the help!!!

@Lenny

Got another question sorry, in the F100 slot my multi meter reads that the left side of the fuse slot is 12v and the right side is 5v.

Can you shed some light on this please with all your wisdom and knowledge 😂

2 hours ago, Solverz said:

@Lenny

Got another question sorry, in the F100 slot my multi meter reads that the left side of the fuse slot is 12v and the right side is 5v.

Can you shed some light on this please with all your wisdom and knowledge 😂

I assume the 12v power is flowing out from one side and in to the other side, 

The fuse filters the flow from battery to the device, 

So out from the 12v and in to the 5v via fuse

Why then is there a 5v reading coming from the Destination ? 

🤷‍♂️ could be residual power coming from capacitors in the ECU or GEM 

When fitting a piggy back adapter it is important to know which end of the fuse the power is coming from to ensure the top pin of the piggyback goes in to the 12v power side.

Hope this reads correctly mate, I can explain better using my jazz hands and body 😅

I do like finishing work now; so I'll get a picture of the dirty boot handle with connects2 camera fitted now soon within the hour.

3 hours ago, Lenny said:

I assume the 12v power is flowing out from one side and in to the other side, 

The fuse filters the flow from battery to the device, 

So out from the 12v and in to the 5v via fuse

Why then is there a 5v reading coming from the Destination ? 

🤷‍♂️ could be residual power coming from capacitors in the ECU or GEM 

When fitting a piggy back adapter it is important to know which end of the fuse the power is coming from to ensure the top pin of the piggyback goes in to the 12v power side.

Hope this reads correctly mate, I can explain better using my jazz hands and body 😅

I do like finishing work now; so I'll get a picture of the dirty boot handle with connects2 camera fitted now soon within the hour.

Yes that makes sense, so to give it some context I removed the fuse from F100 and then probed the left side which was giving 12v and probed the right side which was giving 5v so I put the piggyback fuse in so the top pin of the piggy back goes into the 12v side.

I was just confused about the 5v reading so it must be just residual power from the ecu.

Also great thanks for getting that picture 🙂

 

I did have a scare after I fitted it all though as when I turned the key I heard a click and everything lost power, I then saw I didn't tighten the battery terminals, so after tightening them it was all fine and good 😂😂

 

@Lenny

Sorry mate another question, 😅

Do you have a link to a ground loop isolator?

As I get some distortion and I am trying to find one on ebay to fix it but am getting mixed results as they are all different 😂.

 

38 minutes ago, Solverz said:

@Lenny

Sorry mate another question, 😅

Do you have a link to a ground loop isolator?

As I get some distortion and I am trying to find one on ebay to fix it but am getting mixed results as they are all different 😂.

 

RCA Ground Loop isolator, 

I haven't used one myself although I do get some fuzzy lines down the screen at times 

This one is from a fairly reliable seller which I would then assume is of fairly good quality 

https://m.ebay.ie/itm/401750550375?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F5282-53468-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D2%26pub%3D5575376664%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338268676%26customid%3DEAIaIQobChMI24u95Mb45AIVBtHeCh0EwgEPEAQYIyABEgKwhvD_BwE%26lgeo%3D1%26item%3D401750550375%26srcrot%3D5282-53468-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2128518155010%26rvr_ts%3D8228ccba16d0a4e907f33ec4ffd70394&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true 

BoSS audio are another reliable brand 

https://www.ubuy.ie/en/catalog/product/view/id/1024772/s/ground-loop-isolator-boss-audio-b25n-noise-filter-for-car-audio-sy?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI24u95Mb45AIVBtHeCh0EwgEPEAQYDCABEgKIoPD_BwE

 

4 minutes ago, Lenny said:

RCA Ground Loop isolator, 

I haven't used one myself although I do get some fuzzy lines down the screen at times 

This one is from a fairly reliable seller which I would then assume is of fairly good quality 

https://m.ebay.ie/itm/401750550375?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F5282-53468-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D2%26pub%3D5575376664%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338268676%26customid%3DEAIaIQobChMI24u95Mb45AIVBtHeCh0EwgEPEAQYIyABEgKwhvD_BwE%26lgeo%3D1%26item%3D401750550375%26srcrot%3D5282-53468-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2128518155010%26rvr_ts%3D8228ccba16d0a4e907f33ec4ffd70394&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true 

BoSS audio are another reliable brand 

https://www.ubuy.ie/en/catalog/product/view/id/1024772/s/ground-loop-isolator-boss-audio-b25n-noise-filter-for-car-audio-sy?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI24u95Mb45AIVBtHeCh0EwgEPEAQYDCABEgKIoPD_BwE

 

Thanks mate, do you have any idea how they connect as there are two cables on each side of the isolator.

I'm assuming you just plug the RCA cable into one end and the camera into the other end and thats it? Leaving the extra two cables untouched?

Please let me know if you think this is correct 🙂

Just now, Solverz said:

Thanks mate, do you have any idea how they connect as there are two cables on each side of the isolator.

I'm assuming you just plug the RCA cable into one end and the camera into the other end and thats it? Leaving the extra two cables untouched?

Please let me know if you think this is correct 🙂

That's correct in with the existing then out with the new one,

Try searching single RCA ground Loop isolator 

Today I successfully installed the reverse camera. I bought the camera from eBay and seems identical to the ones suggested in previous posts. The price was around $13. Because I wanted to always be able to check the reverse camera and not only when I have the reverse gear, I soldered the positive lead for the camera power to the acc cable of my power harness. With this, my Sony head unit can automatically change to the reverse camera when I have the reverse gear but I can also manually choose the reverse camera from the Sony menu. The picture quality is really good for the price and I was really impressed with the backup lines. They are extremely accurate. The installation wasn't that hard, but it is time consuming. it took me a little bit over 3 hours. Overall, I'm very happy with the result.

glad  to find your guide, and i have already fitted one of those reg light models. your original link cant be found but id be looking at this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Trunk-Handle-Rear-View-Camera-CCD-for-FORD-FOCUS-2-2C-3C-MONDEO-Fiesta-S-Max/282975839536?hash=item41e2aca530:g:j5EAAOSw~Bha~o4x&autorefresh=true

WIll this do the job as the link for the original camera has gone?

 

I have a 2011 MK2.5 ford focus

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCD-Car-Reverse-Parking-Camera-for-Range-Rover-Sport-L320-Ford-Focus-Ford-Mondeo/284147398928?hash=item4228813910:g:0nAAAOSwLEdf~~QB&autorefresh=true