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Mondeo Mk4 2.0 Tdci Egr Removal And Cleaning


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I though I would share my thoughts on removing the EGR from a mk4 Mondeo. Unfortunately due to stress levels I never took and photos.

The EGR is at the back of the engine on the top. 4 bolts are easy to see and remove, 2 of the bolts fix the EGR to the engine block and the other 2 bolt the EGR to the EGR cooler. There are 5 other bolts you need to remove as well. These are for the metal pipe that goes from the EGR to the inlet manifold, 2 at either end and 1 bolt that secures this metal pipe to the side of the engine.

The one bolt I couldn't find was underneath the EGR itself. You cant see it at all. I ended up going out to buy one of those dentist style mirrors which helped no end. This last bolt is an allen bolt that requires a 5mm allen key, the allen key needs cutting down somewhat in order to fit as space is very limited. Once this bolt is loosened (you dont need to remove it) the EGR can be removed by sliding it back towards the windscreen area. This whole precess took be about 2 hours plus to figure out and then about 10 minutes to put back together.

After all of this my EGR was nothing like I was expecting. My car has covered 80,000 miles and it was clean, a bit of soot but other wise there was nothing. My MK3 was caked at this mileage and to the point that you could scrape it out. It seems the MK4 runs muh cleaner.

I certainly wont bother removing it again unless it is to replace it. I was hoping this was the cause of my poor fuel economy but it now seems it's my MAF sensor but a full diagnostic on Tuesday will confirm this for sure.

I'm working for the next few days but if I get a few spare minutes I'll take some pictures that might help others out and save you time trying to figure out how it comes apart (Haynes manual was next to useless)

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Thanks for sharing that, found it quite useful. I've done the job on a 5-series BMW, EGR was caked and so was the inlet manifold so it took me more much longer than 2 hours.

I think it could be a good idea to reset the ECU values after cleaning it. I've bought a new EGR valve (in a Fiat box but made by Delphi with the same code as the Mondeo uses) and will exchange mine then try and programme it using ETIS. I reckon I could always but the original back on if it doesn't work for any reason.

Mine has 130k mainly motorway miles on it so am curious now what condition it'll be in.

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Rocco was the Fiat branded EGR much cheaper than buying genuine Ford?

I did an ECU reset after I'd cleaned mine, it didn't make much difference really.

My next job is to remove the inlet manifold and clean it. First I need to order 4 new rubber O'ring seals. I did this same job on my Mrs 2009 Fiesta 1.4 TDCI and the inlet manifolds can be difficult to get back on as the seals are so tight, it does require some lube and lots of pressure.

I was so surprised at how clean my EGR was, the soot it had in it was only about the same as that found in the end of the exhaust. I'm wondering if it hasn't been working fully due to a possible faulty MAF sensor? I'll find out for sure on Tuesday.

Good luck doing your motor and if you need any help just yell.

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Yes, the Fiat packaging was much cheaper than the Ford or anything packaging so that's why I bought it. It's still a Delphi, part No. EG10396-12 so I don't envisage any problems.

Have to change my gearbox before doing any of the other things. The list is growing fast though.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Rocco.

A newbie here and I just bought a 2.0 161hp Titanium X with 124000 on the clock. I have only drove it up to Motherwell from Manchester and it drove very well.

It has been sat in my garage since then though as I have removed the front bumper to get it re-sprayed.

I did notice however that selecting 1st gear when stationery was difficult and when I noticed you mention of a gearbox change this has got me just a wee bit curious.

Have you or anyone else on the site had gear selection problems. If yes what was the fault and potential remedy?

Thanks

John F

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Hi John, I think many people have posted about problems selecting 1st or reverse gear, it's quite well documented. One trick is to select another gear first, say 2nd, and then 1st often goes in easier but there are a number of remedies you can try.

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Very interesting, tried removing and cleaning the egr valve myself on my 2.0 TDCI 140 but couldn't manage to get it off.

Funnily enough now I find my car feels a bit lumpy while driving and seems to have a slight hesitation between 1000 and 2000rpm sometimes so I brought it to a Ford garage today (as it's still under warranty) and they think the egr valve needs replacing. I'm wondering if this will cure the problem and it there's much soot collected in it as it has 120,000miles.

I've managed to take of and clean egr valves in previous cars but where's it located on the Mk4 Mondeo makes it a very difficult job.

As for selecting gears I have that problem but not always. Sometimes I have to almost fight with the gearstick to select gears and then other times it just eases in as it should. Don't know what is the cause of it

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I have got the same car with nearly 90000 on it and have the same issue so one told me to spray all the gear selectors with white grease seemed to work but still a little stiff for some reason thinking of changing the gearbox oil now

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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  • 4 months later...

I have managed to locate my EGR valve on a 2011 Ford Mondeo 2L TDCi, towards the front cnetre of the engine.

Can anyone confirm from the photos where exactly the EGR blanking plate will go?

And if the blanking plate does not have a 10mm (I have both), then does the engine management system (FORDconvers+) repeatedly warn you of the EGR error every day?

Or is it something that you can live with and not notice whilst driving, and just periodically delete the error with F-Super program and the like?

Thanks

post-7439-0-30811000-1442960372_thumb.jp

post-7439-0-06177300-1442960384_thumb.jp

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Ok thanks for the advice. I will probably just fit the complete blanking plate then and put up with deleting the fault code once a month.

I guess that it's proably too difficult to fashion a mechanism to change the electric signal across the EGR terminals in line with when it should and shouldn't be open through normal driving? Or a mechanism for changing the pressure on the vacuum hose perhaps? No idea at the moment where I would start with that, nor do I have the time to investigate!

The Valeo SKU number (V29002691) for the unit in my photo appears on a few dutch websites. So perhaps that is why no-one else has posted photos before? I'm sure there are many others who out there who have this style of EGR valve though. Looks like I will have to take some of the manifold off to get to the very short section of pipe going from the manifold to the EGR valve though. So it's certainly not as easy to install the blanking plate than described by the OP!

Will the car pass an MOT if the EGR fault is flagged? Or will I need to delete the error code using the F-Super software, just before handing over for a MOT?

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Sadly deleting the code will only work for a short while though the fault may present itself. You may get away with it though it may fail depending on the stringent nature of the tester.

To be honest the best bet is to have the egr remapped put of the ecu as that's the only real way to stop error codes. However I do not believe such a map has been put together yet.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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Yeah I must admit it's not one I'm familiar with, but the best answer is a Haynes manual for your motor. I will check mine and see if it covers the 2.0 and might be able to offer some guidance... Will try do that some point over this weekend (when I find it lol)

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

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Ended up blocking the vacuum hose on top of the Valeo egr valve in the end, as couldn't be bothered with taking the manifold off just to get to it. Far hareder to fit the plate on this 2011 Mondeo engine set up than my 2003 Focus!

Started the engine 10 times since, and still no egr fault code showing. Sure it's a matter of time though, judging by other comments in this thread.

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How can I tell if the valve is permanently closed? Can't see any black smoke out the back of the car, and I had blocked up the vacuum hose some 10 mins after turning the engine off. Is that enough time to leave me to assume that the valve has closed itself?

Thanks :)

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Since the start of this thread I have had my car re-mapped as there was no pull in low revs. I also asked the garage to blank off the EGR valve.

I originally asked for a price to blank the egr and he said that he would have to alter the software so that the light did not come on so why not have the car re-mapped as the price would not be much more than the egr removal. We agreed a price and the work was done.

When I collected the car the garage owner "Mark" said that the egr did not require a plate fitted as it was permanently closed after the software change.

I can only assume that it is the electrically operated one and by manipulating the software it no longer functions.

The car does drive smother and the pull in lower revs is much better.

Just a point on the lumpy feel and lag stated by Dave i had the same issues. Since the re-map the lag is not as noticeable and the lumpy drive normally occurs only when in top gear when driving slower than 55 MPH. If the revs are above 1400 or 1500 revs the car drives smoothly.

The gear selection issue......Don't get me started on that.......................!

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