Dont want to hijack what is an excellent thread but while on the subject of speaker upgrades is there any reason why same coax speakers used in the front cant be used in the back?Just starting to look into upgrading them and got a few questions.

Also can anyone name any speakers they are very impressed with and ones that are not a good investment (Such as the Kenwoods in this thread).

Nice seeing Lenny helping folk still,absolute legend who helped me alot when i first joined!

There should be no problems what so ever with that method djsub. That idea reminded me of a time when I 1st started upgrading. The car was a Rover 800 sterling saloon which had as standard 8" speakers in the back but we're built into a spacer as the distance between the actual metal shelf and the carpeted cardboard shelf was about 2". To mount the Alpine triacs I used long bolts and there were no issues at all. Your gap will be negligible and won't matter as it's in the back anyway.

Don't want to hijack what is an excellent thread but while on the subject of speaker upgrades is there any reason why same coax speakers used in the front cant be used in the back?Just starting to look into upgrading them and got a few questions.

Good question there mate, i wouldn't see any sound related question as hijacking.

Coaxial speakers are a single speaker which has a built in tweeter in the centre,

Component speakers are two separate speakers

Tweeter and a sub,

They come with a crossover box which sends the sounds to each speaker.

As standard on most mk2 and mk2.5 focus they don't have components in the back, only the Mk2 Ghia Saloon had a hole in the rear door cards to support components.

The marking for this tweeter is in all mk2 and mk2.5 door cards on the inside if desired to fit components in the rear it is possible.

Also can anyone name any speakers they are very impressed with and ones that are not a good investment (Such as the Kenwoods in this thread).

Im very impressed with the JL Audio C3 650

They can be fitted in both coaxial and component form; the 1" silk tweeter clips in to the 6.5" sub to create a coaxial speaker or stays separate for component.

These speakers are bang for buck there quality at a quality price,

Id like to hear from those whom have purchased some speakers for under 150 pounds and are surprised with there quality.

Nice seeing Lenny helping folk still,absolute legend who helped me alot when i first joined!

Thanks very much John,

Its always rewarding to get feedback, I'm online quite a lot lately due to a hip fracture in May i cant do much else and the forum helps keep my mind busy and provides a sense of doing somthing productive,

i always enjoy assisting and sharing ideas on the open forum rather than via PM (Personal Message) because it may help and inform more than one person this way.

Cant see any problem with this plan mate,

Id use cloths pegs to grip the bolts in place,

Then only one nut to secure the speaker down,

Grip bolt wilt a pliers and tighten nut with a spanner

Resulting in zero gap.

Im genuinly gutted now i binned a full set of factory speakers last March as i never thought they would be of use to anyone,

I could have sent em over to you.

Ah thanks. I've seen a few on eBay, always worth getting rid of stuff on there for a few quid, but I can imagine it is a bit of a hassle too for something almost worthless.

I don't quite get your clothes peg method - would a clothes peg even provide enough grip? Plus if they're on the inside, how do I get them out after the speaker is mounted and blocking the hole?

Dont want to hijack what is an excellent thread but while on the subject of speaker upgrades is there any reason why same coax speakers used in the front cant be used in the back?Just starting to look into upgrading them and got a few questions.

Also can anyone name any speakers they are very impressed with and ones that are not a good investment (Such as the Kenwoods in this thread).

Nice seeing Lenny helping folk still,absolute legend who helped me alot when i first joined!

The mounting brackets of the rear speakers are different. Most notably, they have only three rivets instead of the four on the front. And the actual depth of the brackets is much less on the rear (around 2cm compared to 5cm on the front) due to the smaller space available in the door card.

PS the fronts are components not coax, the rear are coax.

Ah thanks. I've seen a few on eBay, always worth getting rid of stuff on there for a few quid, but I can imagine it is a bit of a hassle too for something almost worthless.

I don't quite get your clothes peg method - would a clothes peg even provide enough grip? Plus if they're on the inside, how do I get them out after the speaker is mounted and blocking the hole?

Push the bolt through to the inside the the door,

Opposite way from the way you done the front,

Could use blu-tak either,

Just to hold the bolt in place while you slide on the speaker,

Then secure down with one nut on each.

Head of bolt is inside the door pointing out at you

Cheers Lenny and DJ.

First off Lenny get well soon mate,that sounds like a sore one but i am sure it is safe to say everyone here is hoping for a speedy recovery.

DJ,Many thanks for that.Sorry i got a bit confused and did type coax when i should have said component for front.Mine has the tweeter up on the rear side of the wing mirror.I wondered why you couldnt just got for the same on the rear or why some places listed front as well as rear but seperate . I have a 3 door Zetec S so really was easier asking here first than trying to rip it all out just to have a look but your answer really helped out.Thanks so much.

Dont want to hijack what is an excellent thread but while on the subject of speaker upgrades is there any reason why same coax speakers used in the front cant be used in the back?Just starting to look into upgrading them and got a few questions.

Also can anyone name any speakers they are very impressed with and ones that are not a good investment (Such as the Kenwoods in this thread).

Nice seeing Lenny helping folk still,absolute legend who helped me alot when i first joined!

Just read this thred and have a few comments. There are two different ways to drive speakers in the car - with or without an external amp. As mentioned earlier - you only have up to max 25W per channel (2 channel driven) in the cd-player - at best.

If you choose not to use en external amp, you have to look for a speaker set that are built for this. You can check for parameters like impedance and sensitivity - where low impedance and high sensitivity will give an easily driven speaker. But luckily this type of speakers are often marked as "High Efficiency Systems" og "High Sensitivity" - so they are not hard to find. Focals and Gladen are brands that are known for having types of easily driven speakers - others have too.

I am about to replace the original speakers in my daughters first car, a Peugeot 206 (whats wrong with Ford??). I am gonna put in Gladen M-165 (6,5" with tweeters and crossovers) these are specially built for use without an external amp. Going to use my old Pioneer DEH-4200SD cd-player to feed them. They come highly recommended by a couple of "car-stereo-guys" i have chatted with.

I will hopefully have the job done in a couple of weeks - can leave an impression then.

Just read this thred and have a few comments. There are two different ways to drive speakers in the car - with or without an external amp. As mentioned earlier - you only have up to max 25W per channel (2 channel driven) in the cd-player - at best.

If you choose not to use en external amp, you have to look for a speaker set that are built for this. You can check for parameters like impedance and sensitivity - where low impedance and high sensitivity will give an easily driven speaker. But luckily this type of speakers are often marked as "High Efficiency Systems" og "High Sensitivity" - so they are not hard to find. Focals and Gladen are brands that are known for having types of easily driven speakers - others have too.

I am about to replace the original speakers in my daughters first car, a Peugeot 206 (whats wrong with Ford??). I am gonna put in Gladen M-165 (6,5" with tweeters and crossovers) these are specially built for use without an external amp. Going to use my old Pioneer DEH-4200SD cd-player to feed them. They come highly recommended by a couple of "car-stereo-guys" i have chatted with.

I will hopefully have the job done in a couple of weeks - can leave an impression then.

Thanks for the reply. My plan was to stick with the head unit (aftermarket) and maybe get an amp later down the line. I ended up going with Hertz DSK165s for the front, and decided to leave the rears as stock for now. But as I found out last week, one of the rear speakers is actually dead, so I have ordered one off eBay and will replace it.

By the way Lenny, I just realised I'm an idiot. And I still didn't fully understand your pegs/bluetac idea but I think it might be what I just realised... theres no need for a second nut if I can just secure the bolts with the speaker mounted on them, then hold the bolt with pliers while tightening the nut with a spanner.

Speaker from eBay came in today... fitted and took the opportunity to dampen behind the speaker while I had access. Decided to do the same on the other side too. The model number on the replacement speaker is actually slightly different, but it looks exactly the same and the same 25W/4Ohm config. Weirdly enough, the existing one still sounds a little better... but it's only really noticeable if I did a direct left/right comparison with the fader all the way to the rear. Can't notice at all with all four speakers moving.

But damn, after dampening the outer skins on the rear doors, it's made so much of a difference to the rattling. The car is literally like a rock. And after nearly four weeks of my car being a tip filled with tools, garbage, and rolls of foam, I've finally concluded the project today and cleaned out the car!

Thanks to everyone who helped, especially Lenny!

Now just a matter of time before I start itching for an amp :D but I'll try to restrain myself for as long as possible.

Speaker from eBay came in today... fitted and took the opportunity to dampen behind the speaker while I had access. Decided to do the same on the other side too. The model number on the replacement speaker is actually slightly different, but it looks exactly the same and the same 25W/4Ohm config. Weirdly enough, the existing one still sounds a little better... but it's only really noticeable if I did a direct left/right comparison with the fader all the way to the rear. Can't notice at all with all four speakers moving.

But damn, after dampening the outer skins on the rear doors, it's made so much of a difference to the rattling. The car is literally like a rock. And after nearly four weeks of my car being a tip filled with tools, garbage, and rolls of foam, I've finally concluded the project today and cleaned out the car!

Thanks to everyone who helped, especially Lenny!

Now just a matter of time before I start itching for an amp :D but I'll try to restrain myself for as long as possible.

Happy to help anytime mate,

Glad to hear you achieved the desired results.

DJ,by any chance in your reaearch did you come across any Hertz speakers that would do well (And fit!) in the rear panels ? I am doing a bit of looking around and never really heard much Hertz stuff so thought id be cheeky and ask if you spotted anything. Also those Hertz ones are they 60 watt RMS per chance? I think from watching the thread it is down to either your speakers or Lenny's JL suggestion.....but funny enough Kenwood has a score through the name on my list ;-)

DJ,by any chance in your reaearch did you come across any Hertz speakers that would do well (And fit!) in the rear panels ? I am doing a bit of looking around and never really heard much Hertz stuff so thought id be cheeky and ask if you spotted anything. Also those Hertz ones are they 60 watt RMS per chance? I think from watching the thread it is down to either your speakers or Lenny's JL suggestion.....but funny enough Kenwood has a score through the name on my list ;-)

I suggest logging on to Caraudiodirect.co.uk

They are most expensive for everything compared to elsewhere,

But the website layout and selection of equipment on the site is excellent,

You can compare products side by side detail its a great site to compare details but purchase elsewhere lol

As always Lenny you are a star.Bookmarked it and will look tomorrow.Just so grateful i asked and you and DJ put me right about the sizing of the rear speakers!Thats why i love this forum. Cheers buddy and hope the hips mending up well.

DJ,by any chance in your reaearch did you come across any Hertz speakers that would do well (And fit!) in the rear panels ? I am doing a bit of looking around and never really heard much Hertz stuff so thought id be cheeky and ask if you spotted anything. Also those Hertz ones are they 60 watt RMS per chance? I think from watching the thread it is down to either your speakers or Lenny's JL suggestion.....but funny enough Kenwood has a score through the name on my list ;-)

I made a mistake and forgot to measure the available depth on the rear doors while I had the speakers out, so I cannot say for sure. The coax versions of the Hertz DSK165s I installed in the front would be these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hertz-Dieci-DCX165-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B0044AFQZQ

Crazy how much cheaper they are than the components! They have a mounting depth of 6 cm and the spacer ring is about 2 cm thick, I can say with 90% certainty there is well over 4 cm space between the door panels, so it should fit but I would get a confirmation from someone else, especially as you don't want the speaker to get in the way of the window.

I can't really help you re. the RMS handling either, as I'm not using an amp.

One thing to note, the spacer rings for the rear doors are not the same as the front. They are not as deep (due to much less available space in the door trim), and have only three mounting holes. These would be the ones you want if you do plan to install aftermarket speakers in the back:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-C-Max-Kuga-Rear-Door-Speaker-Adaptor-Kit-Pod-Ring-Rings-Spacers-6-5-/331404888971?hash=item4d29454b8b

As always Lenny you are a star.Bookmarked it and will look tomorrow.Just so grateful i asked and you and DJ put me right about the sizing of the rear speakers!Thats why i love this forum. Cheers buddy and hope the hips mending up well.

The JL Audio C3 650 are pretty deep 4.08inches/103.6cm and they fit in front & rear no problem.

May be deeper than other brands so then you know others are ok,

I also used DEi Boom speaker cups to keep the bass in its place ;)