I have a 2005 mk2 1.6 tdci with 108000 miles on it,

In the last couple of weeks I have noticed a loss of power when cold, the problem disappears in about 4-5 miles.

This feels very much like a turbo problem so have done the obvious checks, the hoses are all intact and secure, the turbo is clean and spins freely with no movement on its shaft.

When pulling away from cold the everything sounds normal, no smoke is produced and the engine revs normally, it feels very flat but otherwise normal.

Any ideas???

Have you only recently got the car? There is a torque limiter when the engine is cold. Particularly noticeable now the weather is cold.

No, that's what is making it a mystery, I've had the car for seven years and done over 70000 fault free miles.

I have a 2005 mk2 1.6 tdci with 108000 miles on it,

In the last couple of weeks I have noticed a loss of power when cold, the problem disappears in about 4-5 miles.

This feels very much like a turbo problem so have done the obvious checks, the hoses are all intact and secure, the turbo is clean and spins freely with no movement on its shaft.

When pulling away from cold the everything sounds normal, no smoke is produced and the engine revs normally, it feels very flat but otherwise normal.

Any ideas???

Hi,

Text book turbo failure on the 1.6tdci is between 100 and 120,000 miles.

This is possible case and can be prevented.

Have you blanked the egr valve yet?

If not I recommend you do,

Following blanking; use some wynnes engine flush prior to an oil change to clear the carbon build up out of the oil sump.

The carbon gets in via the egr valve and restricts flow to the turbo oil feed pipe slowly blocking flow until it stops oil flow blowing the turbo.

These are very common problems with this Citröen engine

Guides to follow would be:

Guide Blanking 1.6TDCi EGR Valve

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/42915-guide-fitting-egr-blanking-plate-16tdci-engine/

Guide Induction Filter Upgrade

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/36783-green-cotton-performance-induction-filter-fitting-guide/

Guide Fitting Custom Built Oil Catch Tank

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/74245-guide-fitting-oil-catch-tank-16tdci-ford-focus-mk2-mk25/

I also recommend using some fuel additive such as xado MultiClean in a tank of diesel to flush all dirt through to existing fuel filter prior to having the fuel filter changed.

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/fuel-additives/atomex-multi-cleaner-diesel

Great, I'll give that a go.

Will that fix the power loss problem as well?

Either way its got to be cheaper than a new turbo!

Great, I'll give that a go.

Will that fix the power loss problem as well?

Either way its got to be cheaper than a new turbo!

here's a UK supplier of EGR blanking plate will arrive quicker than supplier in guide:

http://www.nbstyling.co.uk/store/?pID=25

Blanking the egr valve will prevent recirculation of up to 30% waste gasses,

the engine will suck in only 100% clean air via the induction filter,

As result of blanking the exhaust pressure increases which spins the turbo faster; reducing lag at low rpm and increases mpg aswell as slight power.

However if your model has a dpf fitted,

And the dpf is blocked or restricted with carbon;

The slight performance increase immediately felt from blanking the egr valve may take some time to be felt by driving.

Now if the dpf is somewhat restricted;

The increased exhaust pressure as result of blanking the egr valve will help clear the blockage aswell as keeping it clear.

Blanking the egr will also prevent any carbon from a partially blocked dpf from being chucked in to your oil sump where it will block the oil to turbo.

Here's another thread I wrote similar info recently

link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/76382-2006-focus-16-tdci-stuttering-when-cruising/

After blanking egr;

I recommend upgrading the induction filter when funds allow.

Stock filter is highly restrictive and now supplying 30% more air flow than normal.

mpg and performance will thank you for fitting a green cotton induction filter upgrade as linked above.

Lenny,

Thanks so much for the excellent detailed post.

The guides really help, when you suggested blanking the EGR valve I felt my heart sink but now I've seen the guide I'm almost looking forward to it!!

The link to the stuttering article is an unexpected bonus, the car has always done that especially after a long motorway drive immediately followed by an A road, lower speed cruise. It hesitates, 'coughs' and throws out a puff of black smoke.

If I get to fix this as well its a win, win!

I'll get the blanking plate ordered and will keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks again

Bruce

Lenny,

Thanks so much for the excellent detailed post.

The guides really help, when you suggested blanking the EGR valve I felt my heart sink but now I've seen the guide I'm almost looking forward to it!!

The link to the stuttering article is an unexpected bonus, the car has always done that especially after a long motorway drive immediately followed by an A road, lower speed cruise. It hesitates, 'coughs' and throws out a puff of black smoke.

If I get to fix this as well its a win, win!

I'll get the blanking plate ordered and will keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks again

Bruce

no problem mate I'm always happy to assist,

It's great to have the forums to document information and guides.

When fitting the egr blanking plate;

Some people use a piece of masking tape attached to the side of the plate;

Gives you somthing to hold when sliding the plate in to place; pull off tape when bolted tight.

Blanking the EGR prevents further oil contamination but need to remove the build up from the sump.

After blanking you should use wynne's engine flush along with some cheap 5W30 oil Halfords brand or somthing.

link: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=157187&srch=wynnes+engine+flush+&categoryId=255221&langId=-1&catalogId=10151

Id drain existing oil,

Fill to specific level with cheap oil,

Run engine to operating temperature,

Pour in wynne's engine flush 1 can or 2 cans

Run engine at specified rev for specified time.

Drain out oil from sump,

With sump open; pour in 500ml of castrol 5W30 to flush sump.

fit sump plug with new copper washer.

Fill to specific level with castrol 5W30

Engine should idle quieter aswell as run smoother.

Wynne's engine flush is ideal for heavy contamination within the engine because wynne's is quite viscous like petrol in terms of ease of movement liquid,

It will strip carbon caked on parts breaking down it's structure.

However after blanking the egr valve and removing the heavy carbon in my own engine using wynne's the carbon doesn't get in to oil after blanking the egr valve it goes out the exhaust as hydro carbon diluted with increased air flow from induction.

I have moved on to use Xado TotalFlush because it's less abrasive on oil changes, contains ceramic properties which helps prevent wear of parts,

It's liquid structure is slightly thicker than wynne's engine flush which is why I recommend using wynne's for initial carbon removal 👍

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/miscellaneous/atomex-totalflush

Hi there, I am having a similar problem. When the engine is warm the turbo seems fine. But when cold not power at all, could this be the same thing?

 

sadly the links to guides aren’t working for me too