Today already started looking for a permanent voltage wire in the trunk. In order to have 12 V available at all times, also when the car is locked

I think to do that you will need to run a feed from the battery, as most if not all the systems shut down after 20 mins, I could of course be wrong but would like to know

 

 

I discovered today, a 12 v socket ran straight from the battery runs at 13.7 - 14 v with the engine running.

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I discovered today, a 12 v socket ran straight from the battery runs at 13.7 - 14 v with the engine running.

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Did you check it doesn't get disabled after 20mins of the engine being turned off/car locked when the battery saver relay kicks in? :)

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6 hours ago, pragmatix said:

I think to do that you will need to run a feed from the battery, as most if not all the systems shut down after 20 mins, I could of course be wrong but would like to know

 

 

I have not thought about that, it may be true.
That we will have to test

I discovered today, a 12 v socket ran straight from the battery runs at 13.7 - 14 v with the engine running.Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Did you check it doesn't get disabled after 20mins of the engine being turned off/car locked when the battery saver relay kicks in? :)

www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality Detailing & Valeting supplies

Yes, I ran the socket off the battery directly

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12v is the nominal figure used for calculations and reference purposes, what your seeing is the actual system voltage.

just the same way 230v and 415v are rarely what they say they are too.

I discovered today, a 12 v socket ran straight from the battery runs at 13.7 - 14 v with the engine running.Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Did you check it doesn't get disabled after 20mins of the engine being turned off/car locked when the battery saver relay kicks in? :) www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality Detailing & Valeting supplies

Yes, I ran the socket off the battery directly

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Sorry I misread your post haha! I thought you had discovered a socket, not discovered the voltage!

www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality Detailing & Valeting supplies

12v is the nominal figure used for calculations and reference purposes, what your seeing is the actual system voltage.

just the same way 230v and 415v are rarely what they say they are too.

Yes the problem I'm having is it will only charge my phone when the engine is off and voltage drops to 12.5v

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Well, It looks like I've found the right feed for the 12V socket, on the above showed connector.

Locked the car for over an hour, light was still on, what does one need more.....

Now, I have to find a good location for the socket.....

This grey strip will do....

I just tapped into the rear fuse box.

finally arrived, installation can begin

Is that 2.1 and 1.0 amp or do both deliver 3.1?

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According to specs on the website it is 1 & 2.1 ....

Already made a start building in. Just have to wait now for the panel-fuse holder & then, I can make the connection

Nice! You got a link?

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Also what drill accessories did you use for the right size hole

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4 hours ago, jeebowhite said:

Also what drill accessories did you use for the right size hole

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link:

http://www.dx.com/p/car-voltmeter-current-meter-12v-cigarette-lighter-socket-2-usb-ports-for-suv-rv-caravan-419293#.V1vxTY9OKzc

It's working, although the amp-meter is not showing the current. It's not so bad after all. In the first place I was going for a 12V socket, now I have in + a double USB terminal & a voltage meter.All by all, I am satisfied 

Can you show us how you've got a ammeter connected up? 

See topic :

who can help me to unravel this?

 

 

 

Stef123 see here

who can help me to unravel this?

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