I had the front wheel bearing + hub replaced 2 days ago. When it came to reassembling the calliper he said the piston needed pushing back on it and he seemed a biit unsure of how to reassemble the calliper/piston but got it on in the end.

anyway, 2 days later I hear a knocking sound from the side where the wheel bearing was replaced, it is not very loud but is certainly noticeable. I hear it when coasting/rolling to a stop , even when the brakes are NOT pressed.

 

I#'m just worried about what it could be, and if it is serious I could be killed if something on the car has a malfunction if the car crashes, please help

 

what could be the cause for this knocking sound ?

 

thanks

The gizinti pin is stuck in the flux capacitor 

Jack the car up, take the wheel off and rotate the brake disc. If the noise is still there then you might have damaged the chuckle sprocket inside the gearbox.

Both of you are wrong.  It is clearly a symptom of dirty indicator fluid.  It should be changed after 20,000 blinks, or 5 years, whichever comes first.

23 minutes ago, stef123 said:

Jack the car up, take the wheel off and rotate the brake disc. If the noise is still there then you might have damaged the chuckle sprocket inside the gearbox.

what is the chuckle sprocket in the gearbox, how do I diagnose the chuckle sprocket for the gearbox, and woulss a chuckle sprocket in said gearbox cause a knocking noise ?

29 minutes ago, Michael9 said:

The gizinti pin is stuck in the flux capacitor 

hello

what is a gizinit pin in the flux capacitor mena ?  is that part of the brake system ?

4 minutes ago, Fastlife91 said:

what is the chuckle sprocket in the gearbox, how do I diagnose the chuckle sprocket for the gearbox, and woulss a chuckle sprocket in said gearbox cause a knocking noise ?

The giggling pin which holds it on can become bent when the suspension has been disturbed. Ford sell a glass hammer to fit said pin, its a dealer only tool but is only around £10 including vat with a new pin. You would need to go to your local ford parts department to get one though

now now away you go and find something to do Alex lol

2 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

Aww, you've spoiled the fun!!

Just now, jmurray01 said:

Aww, you've spoiled the fun!!

Well I havent locked the thread yet...

yet. lol

1 minute ago, alexp999 said:

Well I havent locked the thread yet...

you won't be either 

5 minutes ago, alexp999 said:

Well I havent locked the thread yet...

Good point!

The gizinti and giggle pin bolt on the same side as the acid bottle for the lancing modulator that right....can be tricky though 

Your mechanic friend was unsure how to push a piston back and refit 2 bolts on the caliper?   

Anyway, a knocking noise has to be movement and metal contact somewhere, get the car jacked up and check all the nuts and bolts you removed are still tight.  Ideally torqued to spec but I know you're not a fan of using proper tools lol.  If everything seems tight, get a crowbar between joints and see which one is moving, lower ball joint, track rod end etc, whatever you removed to get the hub off.

9 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Your mechanic friend was unsure how to push a piston back and refit 2 bolts on the caliper?   

Anyway, a knocking noise has to be movement and metal contact somewhere, get the car jacked up and check all the nuts and bolts you removed are still tight.  Ideally torqued to spec but I know you're not a fan of using proper tools lol.  If everything seems tight, get a crowbar between joints and see which one is moving, lower ball joint, track rod end etc, whatever you removed to get the hub off.

Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

On 18/11/2016 at 9:16 AM, TomsFocus said:

Your mechanic friend was unsure how to push a piston back and refit 2 bolts on the caliper?   

Anyway, a knocking noise has to be movement and metal contact somewhere, get the car jacked up and check all the nuts and bolts you removed are still tight.  Ideally torqued to spec but I know you're not a fan of using proper tools lol.  If everything seems tight, get a crowbar between joints and see which one is moving, lower ball joint, track rod end etc, whatever you removed to get the hub off.

I did the work at my friends (mechanic's) house, he was busy on another car, I asked his friend who was also up there to help me put pad and calliper on, he does not know a lot but has done pads before but he still got a bit stuck.

Anyway, I re tightened the wheel nuts and there was a missing nut so replaced the missing nut and noise has gone.  thanks

On 18/11/2016 at 6:43 PM, jmurray01 said:

Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

see above please

I don't see how a missing wheel nut can cause that, I've had 2 missing before and was fine infact i didn't know till i took a trim off and there was 3 instead of 5

It's a barstewrd with nuts missing the sack gets flappy 

A missing nut won't but loose ones will, they were probably all loose which is one fell off, wheel nuts should be torqued ideally.  I've lost a few letting garages near my car in the past...I now take the wheels to them separate to fit tyres lol.  Not had any come loose or get seized that I've put on!

I've never torqued a wheel nut/bolt nut yet. If I was to refit the wheels on something like a Jensen interceptor with alloy nuts then that would be a different story. 

Anyone with any experience of working on cars knows what 100nm give or take for a wheel nut feels like. It's the numpties with the windy guns that cause the problems! I use my gun to run the nuts up and apply a little bit or torque then finish it with a bar. 

 

If you're finishing with a bar anyway, what's the difference to finishing with a torque wrench?  Same amount of time and effort but the peace of mind that the bolt isn't going to come off early or be irremovable with the standard brace in the event of a puncture...especially when it's someone else's car.  I admit I didn't have any come off before I got the torque wrench, did overtighten a few, but now I have one I don't see any reason not to use it. 

Plus it's not just 100Nm, I've done most work on older Peugeots with 85Nm bolts over the last ~7 years, the Focus has 130Nm nuts, I wouldn't trust myself to measure that difference by arm lol, maybe you can after decades experience though. 

Either way, don't forget who's thread this is, they were probably just finger tight...

2 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

If you're finishing with a bar anyway, what's the difference to finishing with a torque wrench?  Same amount of time and effort but the peace of mind that the bolt isn't going to come off early or be irremovable with the standard brace in the event of a puncture...especially when it's someone else's car.  I admit I didn't have any come off before I got the torque wrench, did overtighten a few, but now I have one I don't see any reason not to use it. 

Plus it's not just 100Nm, I've done most work on older Peugeots with 85Nm bolts over the last ~7 years, the Focus has 130Nm nuts, I wouldn't trust myself to measure that difference by arm lol, maybe you can after decades experience though. 

Either way, don't forget who's thread this is, they were probably just finger tight...

Tom!  What a terrible thing to say.  Are you suggesting our dear friend isn't a competent mechanic!?

Tbf, we did all start somewhere, I'm just suggesting he may not have the experience yet that others do.