Hello folks,

I have had a 2008 Focus 1.8 Zetec for about eight months, and a while after buying it, I found that the windows (driver and passenger sides) and wipers wouldn't operate for around 12 seconds after the ignition is turned on. All the other electrics appeared to be working satisfactorily.

Turning off the ignition switch and turning it back on (without starting up), the delay resets to 12 seconds again.  

Since then, I have found by experimentation that some display icons also stay on for 12 sec - the Engine Warning; stability control icons and the up red arrow in the rev counter - also all stay on. When they go out, the windows, washer and wipers all work. It's a pain having to wait if I turn off the ignition and a window is still partly open. 

Mystifies me...

Anybody got any ideas as to what the cause might be?

 

Sorry I don't know but as an aside, if you have all round electric windows you can global close them from the key by holding the lock button. 

I think zetecs only have front electrics though thinking about it..

Hope you get it sorted...

10 hours ago, birchyboy said:

Hello folks,

I have had a 2008 Focus 1.8 Zetec for about eight months, and a while after buying it, I found that the windows (driver and passenger sides) and wipers wouldn't operate for around 12 seconds after the ignition is turned on. All the other electrics appeared to be working satisfactorily.

Turning off the ignition switch and turning it back on (without starting up), the delay resets to 12 seconds again.  

Since then, I have found by experimentation that some display icons also stay on for 12 sec - the Engine Warning; stability control icons and the up red arrow in the rev counter - also all stay on. When they go out, the windows, washer and wipers all work. It's a pain having to wait if I turn off the ignition and a window is still partly open. 

Mystifies me...

Anybody got any ideas as to what the cause might be?

 

Have you checked the battery voltage whilst its starting? You can normally pressand hold the Menu button on the end of the indicator stalk, then turn the key from 0 to accessory (will display "Test Mode"), and press the menu button til it shows Battery voltage. Start the engine and just watch what the voltage says during the 12 seconds and when the accessories finally switch on - the delay i've noticed i've always attributed to the alternator not generating enough voltage yet, although for an unknown reason why i've associated it with that!

Ted - 

My OBD2 meter shows no fault codes, so I'll give your idea a try.  

 

Phill

8 hours ago, birchyboy said:

Ted - 

My OBD2 meter shows no fault codes, so I'll give your idea a try.  

 

Phill

If you have a scanner it should show voltage readings anyway, you can see this while starting the engine if they continue to run.

On 29/06/2017 at 6:34 PM, Phil21185 said:

Sorry I don't know but as an aside, if you have all round electric windows you can global close them from the key by holding the lock button. 

I think zetecs only have front electrics though thinking about it..

Hope you get it sorted...

Phil,

I tried that and it does nothing.  Maybe that is also part of the problem ....

Hi Birchyboy,

What were your voltage readings in the end with engine off, engine started, etc?

 

Ted,

My apologies for the delayed response - I've been away.  

The Menu button, when turned from '0' to '1' (Accessory) does absolutely nothing - no Test mode.  Furthermore, at '1' the radio does not work and the Temp/Fuel level meters don't indicate anything until the 12 sec has passed.  

I have an OBD2 meter, but that shows no faults and does not give the startup voltage, only static voltages.  I have an SCT Tuner, used to remap the engine, but it is coded to my Mustang and won't work for the Focus.  

I do have a multimeter, which I will use later today, but of course I can't start the car and hold the meter probes onto the battery!  I'll have to undo the terminal clamps and retighten with probe wires present, then look at it though the windscreen :-0

 

Phill  

1 hour ago, birchyboy said:

Ted,

My apologies for the delayed response - I've been away.  

The Menu button, when turned from '0' to '1' (Accessory) does absolutely nothing - no Test mode.  Furthermore, at '1' the radio does not work and the Temp/Fuel level meters don't indicate anything until the 12 sec has passed.  

I have an OBD2 meter, but that shows no faults and does not give the startup voltage, only static voltages.  I have an SCT Tuner, used to remap the engine, but it is coded to my Mustang and won't work for the Focus.  

I do have a multimeter, which I will use later today, but of course I can't start the car and hold the meter probes onto the battery!  I'll have to undo the terminal clamps and retighten with probe wires present, then look at it though the windscreen :-0

 

Phill  

My bad, i mean ignition (II). Once in test mode you can start when you've found the voltage screen.

Do your gauges work in that first 12 secs?

On 27/07/2017 at 11:26 AM, Micro said:

My bad, i mean ignition (II). Once in test mode you can start when you've found the voltage screen.

Do your gauges work in that first 12 secs?

Ted,

The car won't enter Test Mode. Pressing and holding the Menu button and then turning the ignition to II does nothing. There is a short delay and then the normal menu appears, followed by the delay of around 14 sec for the functions I've listed.  During that 14 sec, I've found that the gauges (fuel & temp) don't work, nor does the front screen heater, together with the icons I've already mentioned.  Curiously, the rear screen heater works immediately.  

Just in case it might be the radio (CANBUS) which allows reprogramming some column stalk buttons, I completely disconnected it. No change.  

There's an audible click of the right hand middle relay after 14 sec, so I swapped it with the one next to it (identical coil/connection schematic). Still the same.    

Checking the battery with a multimeter - Ignition Off voltage = 12.8;  ignition on (pos II) voltage = 11.3;  start voltage, fluctuates, but approx 9V.  

Any of that useful?  I'm reluctant to take it to my local Ford dealership, who want £75 even if they don't solve it and the fee plus parts/time if they do.  

Phill

What's the voltage just after you have started the engine? Do you have the 2x2 inch orangey screen or just the two line lcd?

There appear to be two ignition feeds from the ignition switch. I have successfully fed 12v back into the fusebox which keeps the one ignition supply live (and therefore engine running with key removed), but for about 15 seconds after the key is removed the gauges are frozen, then come back to life. I am wondering if the voltage is either not recovering quickly enough, or the possibility one of your ignition supplies isn't getting 12v?

I don't know if this will help but worth a try if you have not already done it. Disconect the battery for a  bit  then reconnect if the ECU has glitched  at one time it may reset it

Hi did you find the problem as I have the exact same thing happening on my focus. Mechanic has no idea either and suggested I take car to electrical mechanic .

You should start checking all fuses. The instrument cluster has 3 different 12 Volt power supply wires (1 permanent and 2 ignition switched if I remember correctly) that are powered by different fuses.

If 1 of these power signals is missing some of the instrument cluster functions (and also several other functions) will have the exact problem described above. The missing power signal causes the CANbus system to start waking up after the ignition is switched on instead of when the car is unlocked. The waking up process of the CANbus system causes the delay.

I have the same issue on my 2010 mk2.5 focus 1.6tdci. Has anyone solved this or do I need a new cluster?

I fixed mine.

Ignition switch was bad.

Main problem was 14 sec delay with gauges, cluster back lights, heater console screen was blank and most important airbag light did not lit to show system was working.

Rear of ignition switch is yellow cable, 1 of 2 cables which should power up with 12 volts when turning on ignition.

There was no volts at yellow so i bridged it with other one.

FIXED MINE JUST CHANGED IGNITION SWITCH THAT PLUGS IN THE BACK EVERYTHING COMES ON STRAIGHT AWAY NOW 

On 6/29/2017 at 12:00 PM, birchyboy said:

Hello folks,

I have had a 2008 Focus 1.8 Zetec for about eight months, and a while after buying it, I found that the windows (driver and passenger sides) and wipers wouldn't operate for around 12 seconds after the ignition is turned on. All the other electrics appeared to be working satisfactorily.

Turning off the ignition switch and turning it back on (without starting up), the delay resets to 12 seconds again.  

Since then, I have found by experimentation that some display icons also stay on for 12 sec - the Engine Warning; stability control icons and the up red arrow in the rev counter - also all stay on. When they go out, the windows, washer and wipers all work. It's a pain having to wait if I turn off the ignition and a window is still partly open. 

Mystifies me...

Anybody got any ideas as to what the cause might be?

 

Hi Mate, Did you get this solved?

Read below that the ignition switch solved others with the same issue? 

 

I'm having the same problem and tempted to get a switch.

 

Cheers 

On 4/9/2021 at 6:17 PM, Protege said:

I fixed mine.

Ignition switch was bad.

Main problem was 14 sec delay with gauges, cluster back lights, heater console screen was blank and most important airbag light did not lit to show system was working.

Rear of ignition switch is yellow cable, 1 of 2 cables which should power up with 12 volts when turning on ignition.

There was no volts at yellow so i bridged it with other one.

I had the same issue.  Tried the above, the part was very cheap from ebay.  Took 15 mins (would have been quicker if I has the right torx screwdriver. 

• Simply remove the upper and lower cowling (the upper has a tab either side, behind the steering wheel, so you have to rotate it do get the the clips with a flat blade screw driver.  The bottom has two torx screws - you'll need to use the adjuster lever to pull the steering wheel out and up to access the further one). 
• Make sure the ignition off.  This not only prevent you from getting a shock, it also means the slot for the barrel is inserted in the correct orientation. 
• Disconnect the multiplug at the back of the ignition barrel.  The switch is held in with two plastic spring tabs. 
• Remove the switch and slot the new one in. 
• Reconnect the multiplug and test.  Worked first time. 
• Hardest bit was lining up the screw holes for the bottom bit then making sure the top part of the shroud closed down correctly.

Hello, Im having the exact same problem anybody had and solved this issue with push button start??? I’ve got a 2009 focus st225 and it’s doing my head in. Cheers 

1 hour ago, Hassan.87 said:

Im having the exact same problem

So that would be the 'exact same different problem' to that of the OP who had a traditional ignition barrel and key.

Unofix, you're being a bit unfair there. This poster is saying he's got the same problem but his car has push button start, so it can't be fixed with a switch change, and is asking if anyone else with a push button start has had the same. It's worth referring him to the reply by @JW1982 further back in the thread.

On 8/2/2023 at 10:29 AM, mjt said:

Unofix, you're being a bit unfair there. This poster is saying he's got the same problem but his car has push button start, so it can't be fixed with a switch change, and is asking if anyone else with a push button start has had the same. It's worth referring him to the reply by @JW1982 further back in the thread.

Cheers mate, glad someone understood my problem, just hope someone can point me in the right direction 👍