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ive cut the plug off, everyone one happy now??? lol

aimed at the older corsa driver is a new system dubbed MLA - Middle Lane Assist - which relies on a series of sophisticated sensors to detect if the driver is displaying anything resembling correct motorway discipline and triggers a warning tone so that they can resume their correct spot in the middle lane, even though the inside lane is completely empty. MLA is directly linked to another exciting new feature known as ASA, or Annoying Speed Assist, which is capable of detecting the speed limit for any given road and then holding the car at precisely 4.5mph less than that. Meanwhile, low speed manoeuvring is taken care of by another revolutionary system labelled Inept Park Assist (IPA) which works off the familiar bumper-mounted parking sensors but sends the information from them to a dedicated ECU which then assesses the steering and throttle inputs needed to bump repeatedly into the car behind and still manage to come to rest bang slap in the middle of a kerbside space that is actually big enough to accommodate two cars, if they weren't driven by people who are idiots. Of course, the new Corsa isn't just about technology. Amongst the unique aesthetic features premiering on this model, Vauxhall is promising the younger lady driver a standard fit range of stupid little teddy bears and gonks strewn all over the dashboard and rear seat so that the entire interior resembles a 12 year old girl's bedroom. When the new Corsa goes on sale in the spring ,prices are expected to start at whatever Vauxhall reckons it can get away with, given that anybody buying one clearly knows nothing about cars and will be so busy deciding what stupid name they're going to give it that they won't ask for a discount. (found this on another car forum. lol)

I do like taking Brandy for her extended Sunday walk this morning in bright sunshine and remarkable warmth for early December, it was 17°C on the garage wall! Although as we emerged from Delph Woods, to descend towards Wimborne, we entered a surreal landscape with dense low lying fog at dog level and bright clear sunshine above. Until 9:30am, you couldn't actually see where the river edge was, or indeed where your dog was (spaniel sized and below), unless they bounced upwards and out of the fog For Brandy it must have been like walking through a cloud, I don't think dogs have the infrared spectrum available to them like cats and birds do. It had all vapourised by the time we got Sturminster Marshall, and quite suddenly too. The feisty bear is demonstrating the facial expression of when you discover the gift of a car for Xmas from your nearest and dearest: is in fact a Corsa

I just tried it, you lied Lenny!!!

These "Feisty Pets" teddy bears 😁 saw in the you store today and had to take a short video lol squeeze the back of there head to alter facail expression 😀

i got a portable tyre inflator that wont go pfzzz and die,im using the word "portable" loosely

would have to be a small fish!!

Wish I had been!! Up at 07:00 I mean, not with your son... It's so depressing when it is already dark by 16:00, at least if I had 4-5 hours of daylight I wouldn't feel so bad.

That's gotta be the Allcorsa forum right? Discs are far better at dissipating heat than drums though...going on that logic you'd have similar issues with both setups, but in reality it doesn't happen, there's always a 'pulling' force on the cable so if the disc did shrink away from the pad they'd still be being pulled into it. The only real benefit of drums is their shape, they sort of pull the top of the shoe in towards the drum when the bottom hits it. But that one pro really doesn't outweigh the disadvantages lol. Rear drums are never correctly adjusted after a year or two out of the factory either, which affects the whole setup. They always fill with water at the slightest puddle and are a bugger to break free, discs stick as well but they easily unstick. Springs ping off changing pads or shoes so I wouldn't really count that against them. But I get the same issue as Ghana...they have the whole carpark to fly into but always end up in the small hedge around the edge! And lets not forget they look stupid behind alloys as well, they're always a giveaway you've got an engine that's considerably lacking in power!

I like rock formations!

Apologies Lenny! If it makes you feel any better though, I'm part alcoholic - sorry, part Irish...

Thanks for the warning! I am in a pickle as it stands, my mother was on the high rate of mobility allowance but her appeal is not being heard until January where we hope it will be reinstalled. I have to tax this car this month and my insurance on this car is up next month so as it stands I might nurse this through until the new year and wait to see what the outcome of the mobility hearing will be. I just hope whatever the issue is with the steering it is something minor and not a major issue, the battery issue as it stands right now is secondary as I will definitely be getting rid of this car asap! PS All I have done is moan about Ford on this thread! I am aware that I have probably just been very unlucky with this car and supremely lucky with the first Fiesta Finesse I bought back in 2004, I finally got rid a couple of years ago as come winter time it took ages to demist the car and heat it up and my mother got a pay out from a PPI claim and basically said it was time for me to get a new car and I agreed. It was well looked after and as I said earlier, a lovely thing to drive and I was so sorry to get rid of it so Ford's aren't all rubbish!

Lol, guess how many doors the tiny Ford dealer customer car had (the one that ferried customers (notice the plural) from the dealer to the town center)? Facepalm. Why stop at a van? Buy a bus

I do understand, the only thing is, there is nothing more blooming awkward than trying to get something out the second row of a 3 door car.. I actually had a nephew in his car seat in the back of my 3 door when I was younger and it was a nightmare, not to mention parking spaces (as 3 doors have bigger doors). Of course it's each to their own and don't let my opinion sway what you desire if you don't want it to, it's just what I've experienced and what I'd personally never go back to by choice...

If you're getting under the car to remove them, why not just buy some big repair washers and undo the nuts (13mm?) and fix them back on. I'm sure plenty have removed them and had no issues long term though.

I don't like not being able to afford a mk3, or mk3.5 ST estate.... *please remove all caps for a moment of silence*... Also, I sort of don't know how I'd go to a dealer and test drive an ST without looking like a boy racer wanting to go for a hoon about......which aside from the boy racer part, is sort of what I want to do... A friend suggested going in an asking about test driving a mondeo estate, or a focus estate and mentioning higher specs and let them sweet talk you into an ST... but I'm sort of rubbish at that kind of thing...

You keep the flex aswell as the plug top on those ones 👍

That also applies to anything you've kept for a while, thrown out because haven't had need for it in the last 12 years. The very next day, after the wheelie lbin has been emptied: the need presents itself

I always keep the plugs off old electrical appliances. Again, people call me a hoarder for doing so, but as you say they can be invaluable.

Yeah, I have just read Tom's replies. He has more experience than me, especially on this engine. Fairly certain he meant the guide seals. Oil remaining in the CH after the engine stops can find its way past leaky seals, and onto the valves, or into the cylinders. Then on starting, it will burn off, with blue, smelly, smoke. Forscan can monitor EGR position & probably also the egr command signal (It can on my 1.8). It can use bluetooth ELM237 adapter and a phone that can take IoS or Android Apps. But it works most reliably (& with more facilities) via usb, on a Windows computer. Changing valve seals is a cylinder head off job, as far as I can tell. So it is a major operation. A good diagnostic system like Forscan is always useful. My standard intro to Forscan is this: Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost £15.00 for the interface, or a bit more for wireless options. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196 Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. The Tunnelrat one (below) has been reported to work well by several people. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones. For a USB ELM327 adapter, see http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 Wireless ELMs are also available (bluetooth & WiFi), but are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rare in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster). For an bluetooth wireless ELM, which one user at least says works with Forscan, see the KW902: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-KW902-Bluetooth-Scaner-OBD-Link-OBD2-Diagnose-Interface-Tester-white-UK-/281631334205 The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

I have to agree about keeping the plug, you never know when you might need one and if you do need one, I can bet you won't have one.

I went to check the tyre pressures on the Mk1, only to find, my pressure gauge wasn't in the glove box, nor any of the cubby holes. Not a problem I thought, there's another one in the Mk2: only that wasn't there either A search of the garage didn't reveal the whereabouts of either of them, a cursory search of the house yielded nothing. My 12v tyre inflator/deflator has a gauge but it's accuracy is questionable, but as I had a visually soft nearside front tyre, it would have to do. Inflated it to the 32psi it's supposed be, and moved to rear nearside tyre to do that one. All of 30 seconds into the inflation, like Ian's kettle, a pfzzz sound and it died. Not only do you lack the sun, there's teapot deficit Worcestershire Teapots are available as 1-cup size, for friendless use My everyday teapot is a 4-cup model: whereas my "tea with friends" size teapot is a 10-cup

Don't get me wrong the one we have is probably older than me, but we have one nonetheless.

where it belongs now

People call me a hoarder, but that's why I always have a spare kettle in the cupboard in case such things happen.

Probably a fuse? Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

thats what went up in smoke .lol

Yep the air inlet pipe is deffo not there. I'm sure if you bought this from a dealer that they should put a pipe on it wether or not it had one when they got it as it should be there anyway. It will run fine no problem without the pipe but that's not the point it is part of your car .For example they cannot say that a car with three wheels is O.K as that's how it came to them and is ok for sale, same thing here. If they wount play ball try a scrap yard .Best thing is go give the dealer some well earned ear ache.

I don't like wasting half the day by not getting out of bed until gone 13:00...

I know I have looked at all brands even contemplated getting a jag but when I drive my car everytime I just enjoy the how fun it is when I give it some revs engaging steering, easy to park. If am changing will definitely be a Zetec S 2l Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Hurray, join the club! Our cars aren't the latest and greatest - but still have two things going for it: engaging drive and reliable :)

I do like finally convincing myself that I will be keeping the focus for another few months to a year. Let me get another year ncb before I decide to change. Also cannot find anything suitable in the market as a replacement apart from getting a 2l version or an ST. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the hints guys. I think I may have fixed this - or got it to an acceptable level anyway. Time will tell! Firstly, let me correct my last post in reply to MICRO. Removing the complete radio harness at source didn't seem make any difference when the car was locked (still 0.39) UNTIL.... About an hour later (after I had written the post) when the car went into sleep mode. I saw a different reading of 0.05amps. I had some time to look on Saturday and did the following tests. The radio/harness was all wired correctly: *Harness removed at original point - 0.05 amps (I had a led voltmeter plugged into the cigar socket for this test, which I believe pulls about 30 milliamps so this could account for the difference to the results below). *Harness plugged back in but radio unplugged (including all cables from back such as aerial) - 0.01amps *Plugged back in the radio, amplified aerial - power and aerial fittings - 0.11amps *Took out the radio>powered aerial power lead, which supplies extra amplification power from the radio to the aerial - 0.02a. Therefore, I was pretty sure that the problem lay with the wiring extension that allows the existing original factory fitted aerial to pick up digital signals. However as this is powered from a wire from the aftermarket radio there may be some fault with the radio itself - as I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be allowing power draw through this wire with the radio turned off and the faceplate removed. This is the cable that was fitted (blue powered line is then connected to radio power line designed for external Dab aerial power) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FRGBLIW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So to try to solve the issue, today I bought a separate passive (non-powered) DAB aerial (http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/dab-car-stereos/sonichi-magnetic-roof-mount-dab-antenna) and ran it into the boot (yes I know it's an external aerial, but I found that running it into the boot looks lots better and made no real difference to DAB reception). I also fitted the PC99-X50 cable for the stork controls (https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autoleads-pc99-x50-ford-focus-c-max-mondeo-stalk-steering-control-adaptor.html). I then did another millimetre test. The result after an hour with the new setup was 0.02a occasionally flicking up to 0.03a which I am going to take meaning around 25 milliamps. Which is about 4 times better than the old setup and within <50 milliamps tolerance, even though it's not quite as good as the 0.01 I was getting with the harness cable completely removed - I suppose it could be radio memory and presets. I'm going to try that for a little while, and see what the score is after a long drive to charge the battery at Xmas. I'm still not totally convinced there isn't some sort of problem with the radio - where it is trying to power the aerial when the radio is off. There are couple of settings on the radio I want to try next - turning off POWER ANT (set to ON my default) and P. OFF WAIT (set to 20 mins by default) to see if changing them makes any different to the power draw when the radio is off and the canbus shuts down, but I ran out of time to do that today. For info the radio is a Kenwood KDC-BT39DAB (http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT39DAB/?view=support) Thanks again for the comments. They pointed be in the right direction. I suppose the lesson is that but careful with aftermarket powered DAB aerials or aerial converters as they can affect the canbus! Personally I don't mind getting a few less DAB stations as long as I can start the car!

I have done the dash test and it shows what the temp gauge shows I have tried it 3 times when the temp gauge shows diffrant I will get something to test the temp with and will update and let you no what the outcome is many thanks for the replies

I'm with you there

🙍I'm offended

Rear drums annoy me 10000x more than rear manual windows!

Not my photo but some great parking in Northborough the other day

The fact the weather is colder drops mpg, (sometimes significantly) due to lights/heater/window demisters etc all being on

As an avid rock fan even I must admit I like a lot of his songs, The Gambler being one of my favourites

Lock and unlock the car with the plipper a few times. It needs to see the stronger signal to cancel the message

Check you haven't left any aftermarket bits on the radio harness (think steering wheel adapter boxes) - if it doesn't let the canbus network go to sleep, the car won't sleep properly. Can you lock yourself in the car (with a window down), and let the car go to sleep, and then start pulling fuses one by one?

Wheels finally done in Hyundai some shade of silver. St spoiler on.

Thanks mate, hope you enjoy your virtually new Focus with only 12k on the clock :)

Modified the gear level gaiter to make it fit/look a bit better, by cutting down the original rubber gaiter and including it underneath. Also today adding a matching black leather/blue stitching handbrake gaiter.

I've made a very cheap and easy mod today! £6.99 off eBay (and I only ordered it yesterday), black leather gear lever gaiter with blue stitching - which I think looks an awful lot better than the standard rubber one, and looks rather OEM in a Zetec Blue!

Carpet mats arrived!

Yes you can do that, ive done it in mine, however since yours is an 06 like mine you probably wont have the holes for the screws to fit the oval mounting brackets. so you will have to drill some holes for it. i drilled the holes and used some strong double sided tape to hold the mounting brackets onto the dashbaord. use the guide in this link for the steps: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/tutorials/article/56-guide-to-swapping-a-focus-mk2-radio-for-a-mk25-radio/ you can get the fascia and mounting brackets from fordpartsuk (or ebay if you can find one): http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_audioheater_control_fascia_bezel_2008-2011_f_1539347_c_1301.htm http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_radio_upgrade_fitting_bracket_kit_from_2008_to_2011_f_KIT1547964_c_1301.htm then you will just need to purchase the sony stereo and an aux cable for the stereo, the such as the ones below: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-Focus-Mondeo-6000CD-Aux-In-Input-Adapter-Cable-Lead-iPod-MP3-Removal-Keys-/400726057426?hash=item5d4d2261d2:g:8WMAAMXQRPRTJDII http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-SONY-CD-PLAYER-FITS-KUGA-FOCUS-MONDEO-S-MAX-INC-POSTAGE-CDX-FS307JE-/301818829881?hash=item4645cddc39:g:jcoAAOSwstxVLSjr rather than installing the sony stereo, i chose to install a chinese android headunit using the steps in the guide, here is my thread where i asked the forum experts about the mounting brackets: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/73638-installing-mk25-stereo/#entry509038

Get yourself out there and fit it, its only a 2 minute job even in the dark. I fitted mine a few months ago and removed the snorkel too, it sounds great! :)