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I always put my parking ticket back in to the machine if im leaving before the ticket expires, This allows someone else to use it up as it's of no further use to me.

traffic r/l set light beam for driving on the right or left so useful if you drive in the UK and Europe. rain light = set lights and wipers to auto so main lights come on automatically in low light and wiper come on automatically when it rains Auto high beam isn't standard on Ti X and needs the optional Driver Assistance Pack Headlight delay - From memory it sets the amount of time the headlights remain on after being switched off i.e. to give you time to walk from your car to house door when it's dark etc

I do like reading Pipper's insurance policy document, and discovering that Petplan will donate the equivalent of 10% my annual premium to the rescue centre, she came from. Not just for this year, they'll do it for each and every year, I renew.

I reckon 8-9k is the sweet spot for cars - for striking the perfect balance between cost, and how good a car will be. At that price point, you can get something quite new, reliable, with a fair amount of toys, and low mileage. That said, life is too short - who cares if you paid 2k more than that. Enjoy the car, enjoy life.

Always like to come back if the matter gets sorted so just wanted to say a huge thanks to John and Andy for responses.Got a genuine unit and charge works fine.The cable i think was fine but the cheap plug for the Ciggie lighter i just think was not up to the job.So less than a fiver and all is well.Thanks guys.

I dunno...the lengths some people go to to avoid paying for parking

you won't get steering problems by someone replacing the tyres because they only touch the wheel nuts whether it's tyresonthedrive or any garage . This is nothing to do with replacing tyres. But some adverse tyre wear situations and handling problems are caused by front wheel alignment being out. So when replacing the tyres could be the point at which you discover the wheel alignment is out. This might be caused by wear or damage by hitting kerb etc. This is adjusted where the track rod ends screw onto the track rods. You don't need to worry about a tyre fitter cocking up your steering unless you are also getting them to adjust the wheel alignment which is a separate operation which they will charge you for. Some will check it free of charge, but they will charge to actually adjust it.

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ChaChing 😁

Morning everyone, I've just bought a 2003 1.6 duratec Streetka to use in a charity road rally this summer. It involves driving from Edinburgh to Rome via the Swiss Alps and back in 2 weeks - a total of about 4,000 miles. The rules of the rally state that no more than £500 can be spent on buying and preparing your car (ex tax, insurance and safety items) so I was delighted to find such a stupidly unsuitable car for touring for £400 but it has a few problems that I need some help and advice with. Just so you know, I've spent most of my life fettling and restoring cars from VW Beetles, Landrovers etc up to a 1912 Veteran car so I can do the spannering myself. My main concern is reliability and after some initial fettling doing a few miles it seems that the oil pump is on its way out. The pressure warning light flickers on at tickover but goes out with revs. I can get a new one donated to the cause but I'll have to fit it myself -how much of a pain is it and should I consider it a potentially terminal problem? The car is all but rust free with near perfect alloys and goes really nicely in every other sense, has 9 months MOT so although I could easily sell it in a few months and get my money back I'd like to use it. Advice and suggestions, please Richard

I had to buy the wire for one side from ford that was £46 so best to hold out for a fell set if you can

http://www.spanglefish.com/tunnelratelectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992

Brilliant, I might just have to take you up on that. Camera still hasn't arrived but head unit has so I'll get that done first over the weekend.

Thank you for your advice and i will see how it goes first with the blanking plate and if still the same i will need to look a bit further regarding the fuel

its as i said , it is the brake booster vacuum hose. it wont come as separate parts. the small hose will pull off the white t piece. as you will see , it fits to the brake booster servo one end and other end to the vacuum pump on engine.

My airbag light is on and has been on for a month or so, I have an mot due so I took it to a garage and they plugged it in and said my Front central restraint sensor is faulty and shew me it on there device, I went to a ford dealer and got a new one, changed it over and the light is still on. Can anyone help? Thanks Brad

true , but many car owners forget all about doing it which is why some car brands include it in their service schedules which isnt unreasonable in itself.

Final update. Hopefully this will be useful if someone else has the same issue. It turns out the thermostat was opening and staying open when it should be opening and closing as it needs to. As described by Micro this was causing the engine to cool down when it shouldn't have but ONLY when it was moving. Ford have replaced the thermostat (possible the casing too?) under warranty and the issue is resolved. On the return from the garage the engine heated up properly and stayed bang in the middle of the gauge all the way home. Thanks to those on this forum for their knowledge.

Hello & Welcome. I'd also be interested in finding a good chip repair company in North West England

All 3 of the dogs I've had don't bark unless there is a reason. All were rescue dogs, so not sure what training they had before. Our old springer spaniel would only bark if there was "someone strange" in the garden, of if there was a cat. He would also bark once at the back door if he had escaped and was wanting back in. My mums old jack Russel and now her dog de bordeaux only bark at the door if someone chaps the letter box. Even then, it is normally just one or two barks until we tell them to shh and then they stop. Some dogs simply are not very vocal :-)

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A big thanks to all on this as been looking at ways for ages and at last i will sort it out.

Sorry for the late reply, I've been away for a few days. Most Netgear stuff is good, and causes no problems so should suit you fine.

I bought mine from Trust Ford, and walked away because they weren't offering anything. They rang me back an hour later and gave about £300. Car was good value at advertised price from what I've seen, so then I was really happy...

slide rule

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Well, I've as good as bought the car now. They're invoicing it today (whatever that means), so that when I get there tomorrow for around 12pm it's all ready to go. They did want a £500 NON refundable deposit but said I wouldn't pay and they relented. No discount unfortunately other than £89 admin fee which they waived (too ***** right). On the one hand I feel a bit of a mug paying the advertised price (although it was £11.5k before), however on the other hand: 1) I really like the car and there's not loads of Titanium X's around with that mileage and that model 2) I need a car, I work full time and it's a nightmare with no transport So tomorrow I will get the train up about 7-8am and get the car around midday. Will let you know how it all works out

I used to have a de-humidifying cushion in my car when I did lots of short journeys. The car never has long enough to dry out at this time of year otherwise.

Get the full Ford service, I do and you get 1 year free AA cover bargain!

Mountune won't void the warranty though.

Hey im a new member here name is Chris and i have 2002 1.8 diesel ford focus estate. I recently bought this and its my first ford and im pretty happy with it. The guy i purchased it from has upgraged the front brakes from a focus st170 I have noticed the rear Calliper is siezed and would like to know if its easy to upgrage the rear brakes to st170 rear callipers disc and pads. Thanks for any help Chris

switch power

Yeah if you want the full speed of your internet connection you'll want a gigabit (1000) switch. Everything connected to it will run at full gigabit speeds the only bottleneck is if more than one device are simultaneously trying to use max bandwidth with a single device, but on a gigabit network that will never happen unless you have SSDs in everything and are doing massive data transfers. Basically get a gigabit switch and you won't notice any bottlenecks. :)

PM'd :)

Well it's been a while since since I wrote about my dead radio in my Scorpio just thought I would update you all, I've had three so called radio experts look at my radio at a cost of nearly £100 plus a new amp and still the radio won't work, why don't these experts say "if i can't fix it you don't pay " and why do they give up after an hour. The thing i find strange is none of them have offered to take the radio &amp away with them to test them off the car, if I could find another Scorpio i would swap them myself just to check they are working. But in the meantime maybe another expert.

Check your header tank cap is sealing properly - these tend to fail on Ford tanks, quite early too. Make sure the seal hasnt perished etc, or replace it for £10 off ebay. Check the pipes leading to and from are sealed correctly and aren't dripping.

Well the car drives a lot better still not a 100% but runs alot better from cold no more hunting or surging on light throttle, turbo spools up alot quicker and better and generally the car feels a lot cleaner to drive and if the the mpg on the dash is anything to go by its gone up by 1.2 mpg on a my run to work and back (same roads and driving style. Dont think it will fix the engine light issue (not cleared the codes yet to see if they will flag up again) but I am chipping away and the car is getting better next step is clean the MAF as it is oily then clean the egr as I am sure it will be clogged I am only doing 1 thing at a time just to see which has the biggest impact. on the plus side only spent £20 on injector seals and £7 on air filter and the car is a lot better

Best advice I can give you is to purchase a Haynes manual for the mk2 diesel focus, it's a blue book and refers to the mk2.5 inside aswell as mk2 It shows you how to do the oil change aswell as dismantling the entire vehicle, you need to remove air box and top intercooler pipe to gain access to remove the oil filter👍

On Switch

Gate Latch

Lock gate

Yes it is tricky. Last time i attempted it i got in a right mess but there was a guy working nearby who knew about cars and came over with his tools and helped me out! That was my first oil & filter change.... I'm hoping my second goes a bit smoother. Thanks for the info guys.

27mm oil filter socket, 21mm for sump

think it`s 17 or 19mm for the sump plug and 27mm for the oil filter ebay item number 361724368138

Another update.... Call from Ford to say they've taken the car out for a drive and the temperature dropped rapidly - not the same behaviour as when it was sat in the workshop. So this led them to have another look and they've discovered an issue with the thermostat! This is now being replaced under warranty and the car will be back with me tomorrow.

That's pretty much what I get from my 1.6 X reg old girl, if not slightly more when I drive carefully. I think I managed to push about 450 miles out of the old girl from brim to empty, not too shabby from the Zetec SE engine, with approaching 140,000 miles on the clock.

Yeah just connect your router to one of the ports then your devices to any of the others. It is an unmanaged switch so which ports you use doesn't matter.

Do you mean these if so bespoked sell them they do all sorts of cars https://www.bespokedonline.com/product-page/df21d22f-95c2-d50a-f3ee-7835ac26e22a

Hey there John, you have to download the Focccus software: http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/FoCCCus_0.8.6.zip Run it in your car with ELM calbe and change this value #172 to value as seen on the screenshot: But you have to have the cluster with the bigger color display: