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Don't bother with either. The blufin commonly has running issues and causes limp mode, which will lead to them sending you multiple replacement maps and still not sorting it The Mountune map isn't a massive improvement power wise and is extremely overpriced. Stay well away from AETmotorsport as their customer service is ridiculously bad, their stage 1 caused me running issues and their stage 2 map melted piston one on my car. They buy their maps in too Revo have brilliant customer service, offer a switchable map with the SPS module and have some good smooth curves. They spent over 11months and 30k miles testing and developing on the 1.0. Puma speed have good smooth curves and have hit over 220bhp from the 1.0. Their customer service is good but slow to respond

The degas hose problems only apply to certain production batches of the hose that are used on the Focus Mk3. It is a misconception that this problem applies to early versions of the 1.0 ECOboost. Both older and newer types of degas hose have a different design and material than the affected type of hose and do not have this problem. As far as I know the Fiesta did never have this problem.

Sold the mk3 as I wanted something I could drive. And couldn't justify the price of a pro paint job. Picked up my new toy today. 1990 mk4 Escort 3 door 1.3 popular. Running a 1.6 efi engine, Rs turbo full interior, steering wheel, and brakes. Apex suspension and 16" alloys.....slight misfire to sort on engine, alloys will be changed for 15" alloys.....swapped the spots for some smaller ones I already had, and gave it a good clean. Interior Lovely Rs 4 spoke Exterior after a good wash and wax, and spots swapped over. Looks good in pics, but has a few battle scars.

My 2011 1.6 TDCI has just failed the MOT because of a broken offside front coil spring. Going to cost around £160 to replace. Is this a common problem on the focus? Do people get both front coil springs replaced at the same time? Thanks

Purchased 3 weeks ago 6 months old (1700 miles) Focus Est ST line 150 in Ice Blue with black out rear windows looks just great. Completed my first 1000 miles and enjoying it.

Hi everyone, Been lurking for a while, but thought I'd introduce myself. Long time Ford owner. Had fiestas, escorts and a focus prior to my newest purchase; a 14 plate mk3 focus zetec s 1.6 Ecoboost 182ps. Only had her a fortnight but loving her so far. Been starting to do couple of subtle mods and will probably start a build thread soon. Here she is and some pics of my old mk1 facelift Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Hi I have a FF 2006 HB 2.0 GHIA MK II I have heated washer jets. But i have heard that there is a new and better one , thats called water jets mist . Someone there has a partnumber for those ? Is it this one : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Focus-MK3-Inc-C-Max-Mondeo-MK4-Front-Heated-Washer-Jet-x1-1708797-/152010351637?hash=item236485e415:g:4A4AAOSwYHxWMzZe Wiig Denmark

Your welcome TALD it just irritates me that people rubish someones project or car, ive seen it on other forums with statements like " polishing a terd" one mans ceiling is another mans floor - if people haven't got something constructive to say - then just don't say anything at all. I hope you get it sorted TALD, im sure it look great once you've finished. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Hi Welcome

It does indeed sound like that, but unfortunately it isn't... ;-) It is Ford's embellished name for the fact that it has an alternator that can be electrically disconnected from the battery so that it reduces drag on the engine when charging is not required. Under braking or engine overrun the alternator can be switched back in making use of the 'free' energy available to it. You could argue that *all* cars have regenerative braking in this sense, however Ford seem to have used the term given that they can turn it off and therefore turning it back on again is somewhat more 'intentional' and thus worthy of the name! I have seen it referred to by the more accurate name of 'Smart Regenerative Charging' and so it is probably better to use that term instead of what ETIS says.

Hi guys. Thought I would say a quick hello. Bought a 3 door 07 fiesta today. Seems to be in good order. Time to start looking on here for things to do to it. Any ideas on what to get started with?

Hi guys. Im from Essex and have always used the forum for questions. Recently bought a mars red titanium x focus on a 2012 plate, so far love the car with only the odd little issue which im taking car back to ford for under warranty. Thought it was time for me to join. Kind regards Marcus

First proper clean of the year, washed, polished, waxed and sealed. All plastics treated, windows cleaned. Wheels waxed and sealed. :D And fitted my dealer sticker in the rear window. :)

Hello, I'd just like to introduce myself. My name is Liz, I have had several Fords over the years, a couple of wonderful Capri's, one with a lovely roll back sunroof, can't remember the name of it but that was lovely in the Summer, a Sierra estate and now a Focus which I need to sell, it was my brother's but unfortunately he has cancer and can't drive it so I took it. I have to say, my favourites have to be my Capri's.

Hi all, Just bought a second hand Grand C Max 11 plate and I really love it, but I'm allready finding out how expensive Fords can be.........

Can you please rephrase or rewrite what you are trying to ask as unfortunately it does not make any sense.

Wait you've taken your mk6 to ford? Surely an independent garage would be cheaper.. Why check the engine? Just drop it and replace it regardless if there's suspicion of further damage :p

As stated, Mountune 135/165 pricey. No plans for a stage 2. Revo are great, good power 180bhp on stage 2 Bluefin, never had no problems on mine with good power delivery from standard. Changed to Mountune 6 months later. Pumaspeed good maps, Can't comment on customer service yet but booked in for the 205+ map and billet turbo in May.

Am I safe just to unplug and reconnect the connector for my fly by wire accelerator? As I had a diagnostics on it and it came up with a problem with it so I was just going to clean the connector and see if that gives it a temp fix? Thanks focus 2006

was running out of petrol last night so we stopped at the "gas" station to fill up. realised after a minute or so the fuel wasnt coming out nozzle, then remembered in the states you have to pre pay for your fuel first. so went in shop to pay first, thinking i would only put in around $40(£32.80) just to keep us going . the attendant said "are you sure?" did she think im stupid!! of course thats how much i wanted or i wouldnt have said so ah!!! i was basing this amount on uk fuel prices.... err. oh. then after attempt 2 i realised you had to pull a switch to turn fuel on(quite embarassing standing there wondering why no fuel still not coming out) couldnt get $40 in tank. ha ha and this in a gas guzzling suv. managed $36, couldnt be arsed to go back shop for the $4. worked out at 50.7 pence a litre!!!!

Thanks! Also do you know where the cam shaft sensor is located as I have a problem with that as well? Stupid car

Thanks Kieran that's a great help. Would you recommend something like this from Revo then? http://www.revotechnik.com/product-details/software/ford/fiesta-mk7-2008-/216/stage-1/

The Focus MK3/MK3.5 mist type washer jets have exactly the same fitment as the Focus MK1/MK1.5 and MK2/MK2.5 washer jets. The heated Focus MK3/MK3.5 mist type washer jets have the following numbers: Finis 1811013 Part number BM51-17666-DA The price from Ford is approximately €25,- a piece. the Focus MK3/MK3.5 washer jets can be retrofitted to a Focus MK1/MK1.5 or MK2/MK2.5 without any problems. However you should be aware that the Focus MK3 also has a more powerful washer pump. When using the MK3/MK3.5 washer jets on a Focus MK1/MK1.5 or MK2/MK2.5 the mist from the washer jets will not be as powerful as on a Focus MK3/MK3.5. On higher speeds the mist will usually not cover the complete windshield.

and your the expert now with timing tools.

bluefin got the map right for the focus 100hp , seems strange that they have issues with fiesta. been on my car since oct 14 and still runs fine.

Yes it's required otherwise you cannot lock the cams in place

Hi Welcome

As Stoney871 says ... but if you miss the announcement, there is a button somewhere (can't remember where without sitting in the car) that will repeat the last instruction, giving you a better chance to adjust the volume as its being said! The volume 'chime' on my over the speed limit isn't loud enough on mine, but I cant figure how to make that louder! I wish the volume settings for each of the audio 'sources' could be set in one place, a bit like setting the levels for notifications, media, system, ringtones, etc on your phone. That would have made for a better UI experience.

No problem, I hope it all goes smoothly. I had bother with a body shop after my car was damaged in an accident. They didn't line up the bonnet correctly, there was condensation in a 'new' fog lamp housing and the driver seat had a squeak to it that wasn't there when it got towed away. They also didn't replace a cracked fan housing and there was overspray on the bonnet lip. I said I wouldn't take the car back and they said I had to as it was finished. I stood my ground and didn't take it, as you say once you have taken it it is almost seen as you accepting it. My courtesy car was through my insurance and not form the bodyshop. I spoke to my insurance company and explained the situation, they spoke to the body shop who said the repair was of a 'satisfactory' standard. I said it was unacceptable so they sent an assessor to check it and within 5 minutes of him arriving I had a call saying all the things I pointed out will be remedied. The insurance company carry a lot of weight in these cases, more than the 'little man'. Also, if your bumper is that noticeable and it is a local bodyshop they will not want it being driven round like that, especially if there is a sign in the window saying who did the repair [emoji6] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Many thanks Jonro that is extremely helpful i certainly make a list of things to check from your post thanks! Thats what i will tell insurance on tuesday they need sort it out as i wont take the car back till they do, harder to get it sorted after then when they have the car, the bodyshop will want to sort it quick so they get there courtesy car back too!

I would be checking all the shut lines are identical around the whole car, not just where the repair has been done. Check the lights work, they may have been removed during the work, in particular check the fog light. Also check the light is levelled correctly and has gone in squint. Check your alloy wheel for any new damage and check for any knocks when going lock to lock. Open and close the bonnet to make sure it opens normally then falls back into position nice and straight. Open the drivers door wide to make sure there is no damage to the hinge. With the bonnet open have a look inside where the damage was and check for any cracked plastics or visible anomalies. Also check the wheel arch liner is not broken and that all the pins are secure, they are easily broken and it's quicker to ignore them rather than replace them. That would be my list anyway. I agree with all the other comments regarding the work carried out. If you are not happy with any aspect of the job then you take it up with the repair shop and they need to action it with either their own staff or any third party that supplied parts for the job. If the body shop are getting arsey then just refuse to take the car back and go back to your insurance company, they are the ones with whom your contract lies. You pay them the annual premium and they work on your behalf in the event of a problem, they authorised the garage to make the repairs and they will be funding it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If any of you want to know what thread size/pitch your sump plugs are drop me a PM with your reg and I'll look them up on Microcat.

it's a bit cheeky them saying you should take it up with Ford. As you did not buy the bumper from them you are not part of that contract of sale. The person who ordered and paid for the bumper (the bodyshop) from Ford is the party who needs to take up any dispute with ford. Like you say, that is their problem not yours.

Totally agree with you 👍🏼

Small holes will go through, but it depends if the tester determines it to be a "major" leak of exhaust gases. If it isn't noticeable when the car is being driven then it should be OK, but if you can hear it then chances are its too big and will need to be replaced. If you don't need the car, then I would consider postponing the MOT until the end of the month then put it in and if it needs a new back box, so be it, but at least you'll have the funds to do it.

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/jvc-cs-j620x-16cm-6-5-2-way-coaxial-car-speakers-300w.html?search=JVC CS-J620X JVC CS J620x, just remember you'll also need cable adapters and 6.5" adapter surrounds to seal the speakers properly to the door.

Hi Duncan welcome to the forum

There are quite a few on eBay for around the £50 mark so don't be too put off. There are plenty of cars out there running original cats that are much older than yours so there's no reason to think they too would be shot.

focus it is , 100hp variant with 10.1 compression ratio

It's code is M2DA (from a Focus I believe). Speaking of codes, bringing the thread full circle here's a photo of its location for the sake of the archives: Looking at mine again I can see now that it's SFJA. The surface rust had made it look like the plate was smooth but with some wire wool and a torch shone at an angle I could just about make it out!

Any pics of it now with the work done

Our two year old son In the Que at the Self Service Checkouts in Dunnes Stores 😁 special offer 2 for €4 on the triple pack Kinder Eggs I suppose we all have something which we like to get a good deal on 😅

the sticker on the front should say what engine code it is

if it is the cat and the car can pass the MOT test then I would just live with it

Do a leak test turn engine till cyl number2 valves are closed then a rubber hose thats a good fit in the spark plug hole pressurise that cylinder. if air comes out of exhaust its a exhaust valve, air out of air intake, intake valve, blows air out of dipstick tube thens its piston/rings, quicker and cheaper that tearing the head of

it's good you spotted it now. if not the split would probably have got worse and let in loads of dirt/water and ruined the CV joint itself. Alas, fitting a new one is not a 5 minute job and the labour is much more than the part. Unless you go for one of these which do not need the drive shaft disconnecting to fit it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Easy-Fit-System-New-Universal-Split-Driveshaft-CV-Joint-Boot-Gaiter-Kit-x-1-/191761038306?hash=item2ca5d93be2:g:tKQAAOSw3KFWcW~9 most people would say these split gaiters (which you glue the side up on) are bodging it

A picture speaks a thousand words.