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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/18/2017 in Posts
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Your not going to believe it, what I believed was wires behind the white mesh, was the lever. I feel so stupid! All my friends have also looked, so don't feel as silly. Hahahaha, thanks for your help Ian.2 points
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2 points
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Had a message today from Chris saying he's done a batch in sea grey, yay!!!!2 points
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I don't like finding the local pigeons have had mass ablutions all over the Mk1 Focus, in the last hour Because their breakfast was mainly ivy berries, the tonic blue Focus is covered in multiple slimy purple blotches Our vet always points out when the human equivalent is cheaper, and suggests it would be better to get it from a pharmacy. than for her to prescribe the more expensive medication Some years ago, when Brandy got mange from a local fox and developed an allergy, her vet said she could prescribe Cetirizine hydrochloride (£20 a time for 14 doses), or I could buy some human over the counter human Piriteze ( £5 for 12 tablets) and give Brandy a quarter of a tablet with her breakfast. Our vet also never charges for follow-up appointments, even if there are several. oooh...that puts the double backing and little out of the way round trip; i have to do every time I want to fill a car up into perspective. The Shell petrol station i use is on the wrong side (from where I'm coming from) of the dualled part of the A3492 points
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2 points
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Yes m8 do that keep me posted [emoji23] think he mite hav others with him also .. the more the merrier lol il no more wen I no the dates m8 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Defo wanna go myself mate ... I know my wee m8 going in the cossie lol wats the date ya know? For fordfair? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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The st will be next year [emoji6] Few plans still in the pipeline: Side skirt splitters TRC headlight brows New headlights possibly Gel badges Maybe RS spoiler1 point
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***** the st m8 it can wait [emoji23][emoji23]yer motor guna get some looks now ... class m8 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Plans sound spot on m8 get fly eye for yer front and rear headlights mate ... sorta stealth look [emoji102] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Class m8 ... ya leaving the roof black?? Also ya changing colour of the wheels?? Loving the colour mate ... ya can do mine nxt [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Much closer ratios. I plotted them out actually on some online gearing calculator. It shows the top speed in each gear and the RPMS that you'll see in the next gear after shifting at the rev-limit See them here: 5spd.pdf 6spd.pdf 3rd gear in our cars is good for nearly 100mph which is just silly.1 point
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It never ceases to amaze me how things can sometimes be hiding in plain sight!1 point
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Hi Ian, thanks for your reply but where the lever is on your car, on mine it's just an empty space where I can access some wiring in a mesh sleeve. Maybe the previous owner broke it. I'll show if a picture if that's okay.1 point
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I don't like having remove all of Pipper's spoil piles from her recent below bush excavations, in order to mow the lawns. Rather than stand sideways on and dig alongside: Pipper chose to dig facing the bush and toss the soil and stones between her paws and on to the lawn but she did manage to separate the stones from the soil. The stones were pawed beyond the soil pile, in a sort of radiating spray pattern I wonder if she'd use her digging skills for the furrows of the maincrop potato planting? or perhaps dig the bean trench prior to application of the compost?1 point
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@7055PaulH , yep it is of course possible. PM'd :)1 point
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u1900 sounds like a canbus fault - normally caused by the connector either being loose / dirty on the back of the instrument cluster, or the actual connector having a bad solder joint/s to the circuit board. You may be able to verify this by getting the cluster out and moving the connector yourself to reproduce the issue. Check your brake fluid level just to be on the safe side.1 point
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Bannko, could I have some advice/guidance on the procedure please. I'm not the most computer literate person so an idiots guide would be great!!! Am I right to say that if I have the compass and lat/long readings on my touchscreen this procedure to 'unlock' sat nav functionality is possible? Thankyou.1 point
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Unfortunately our vet doesn't tell us about cheaper alternatives @GMX they also don't charge for follow up appointments providing they administered treatment in the first instance. Fortunately I am a nurse practitioner so I have a pretty good knowledge of medications. We have to be careful when buying meds for our pets, if the pharmacist thinks you are buying it for an animal they are reluctant to sell it. Strange little town that I live in [emoji52] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk1 point
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based on my 2007 fiesta when I worked on it last year, I do not know if those focus brakes are the same. Handbrake lever travel was getting higher and handbrake performance worse (I had done 146k miles in it) I adjusted up the cable at the lever end which made the travel better but performance still poor. That to me makes me think that the automatic adjusters in the drums are not adjusting up automatically (based on cars I have had in the past 35 years the auto adjusters often stop doing their job). So I took the drums off. Adjusted the adjusters myself by turning with a screwdriver. This made all the difference and handbrake fine. With drums off you do the adjusters up as far as you can go without it stopping the drums sliding back on. Fix drums back on , operate footbrake and footbrake in order to centre the shoes better. Then slide drums off again and see if you can adjust up a little more. Reassemble. Put handbrake and footbrake on and off a few times, now check wheel spins freely without any brake binding. if it important you make sure the brakes aren't rubbing as that can cause excess heat and other problems. The brake shoes were about half worn after 146k and still fine to use. There was no sign of fluid leaks from brake cylinders.1 point
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I've got the same engine in a MK2 Focus saloon, the usual culprit for splitting is a small 90 degree bent pipe at the top left hand side of the engine which connects to the EGR, it usually splits on the underside. Most replace the Ford part with a cheaper but more robust silicon part.1 point
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Personally I do not like the idea of drilling holes in the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir is subjected to pressure and temperature changes. The coolant reservoir already turned out to be a weak part of the coolant system (at least on the Focus MK3/MK3.5) that develops (micro)cracks and material discolorations. Drilling holes in the coolant reservoir can seriously weaken the reservoir. However I do like the idea of a coolant level alarm system. The best oprion in my opinion would be a coolant reservoir cap with integrated level sensor but unfortunately this does not seem to exist for this type of cap (which is used on many ford models and engine types). I already considered to make a custom aluminium cap with an integrated level sensor and pressure valve. However I never did this because I currently want to install the additional cilinder head temperature sensor and integrate it into the existing electronics.1 point
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Aye I'd quite like to, though in the mean time I'm going to fit a filament tonight just to get legal Was there much to switching over to LED?1 point
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To be honest OxygenOS is just One Plus's own tweaked style of Nougat. No different to whatever Samsung do to the vanilla Android version. My previous phone was an original Nexus 5 with which the last update was to Marshmellow. Before that I had a Samsung Galaxy S2. I liked the no bloat of Nexus but wasn't going to pay £££ when Google released the Pixel phones so jumped to One Plus. The 3T is as close to vanilla Android as I can get without going Pixel.1 point
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Hi Lenny, thanks very much for your help so far. Gave it some thought as to what you said about fitting a switch direct to the fan, but i cant really rely on my daughter remembering to switch the fan on and off to cool the engine by which time if she forgets she will end up cooking the engine. In picture 1 I'm thinking of using the new ford sensor i fitted when the problem occured where the screwdriver points to, i have taken the plug off the new sensor and put it onto the old sensor. I have to do this to stop the temperature gauge flashing on the dashboard and also to put the engine management light out and leave this connected up out the way as it seems to keep the engine management happy. I am going to go to a local breakers yard tomorrow and will cut a piece of cable off another fiesta which will have the appropriate plug for the sensor, and plug that onto the new sensor which will have the proper colour coded wires which is a brown and a white one. While I'm out I'll also purchase a piggyback fuse adapter and a relay. In picture 4 is a standard fiesta relay, is this the type i will need? To be honest i have no idea how to wire into and out of a relay, would you be able to tell me what wires go to what spade on the relay? I will have the brown and white wire off the sensor, a live wire from the piggyback and i will need to know how to wire them from the relay to the fan. The fan wires are shown on the fan plug in picture 3. Then fingers crossed this will cure the problem! Many thanks for your help mate. P.s. i forgot to mention, i don't know why but the spades on the relay are numbered up in tiny numbers in the order of 1, 2, 3 & 5. Don't know if this is of any use or would i need a totally different type of relay.1 point
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Just thought I'd give an update on this issue. I decided to purchase a new actuator as i didn't have the confidence to take the old one apart. When fitting it the valve itself was fine and i could open and close it by hand. So no stuck valve as the Ford Dealership suggested. Since fitting the new actuator I've had no issues and no EML, but I'm still not counting my chickens, just yet. It was an aftermarket part, and I'm not sure Ford sell the actuator separately. Thanks to TDCI Peter, you probably saved me the best part of £1000. And as for the Ford Dealership, well I now use an independent. Brian1 point
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doesn't look like it is from front strut, that would be more like oil not grease. it's probably just where they had been a bit messy in the fitting the new part and got some of the grease from the cv joint on it.1 point
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the coolant temps get hotter quicker, i noticed this while monitoring temp sensor via obd, supprised me how hot just accelerating hard for a few seconds. as for temp gauge, it is pretty useless indicator of temp. on my focus it read normal midway temp from approx 60 c to 110c( via obd )with needle not moving at all.1 point
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Most cooling system problems of the 1.0 ECOboost are caused by the higher coolant temperature. In relation to the older naturally aspirated petrol engines the direct injected, turbocharged 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost petrol engines have a considerably higher engine and coolant temperature. This causes some plastic and vulcanised rubber materials that are used for some coolant system parts to deteriorate prematurely. Examples of this are the degas hose, coolant reservoir, coolant reservopir cap, etc. The Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example uses the exact same coolant reservoir as the earlier C-max MK1/Focus MK2. This type of reservoir was introduced in 2003 on the C-max MK1 and has been used for many engine types without any problems. The ECOboost engines are the only ones which suffers from premature coolant reservoir failures on a large scale. On the ECOboost engines the plastic material of the coolant reservoir can develop (micro)cracks and discoloration which in the end causes the reservoir to burst. Another point of concern is the coolant itself. The higher coolant temperature causes the coolant to crystallize. This causes crystal deposits to attach inside the coolant system parts. As a result of this for example the coolant reservoir cap can seize solid onto the reservoir. on the long term the deposits inside the cooling system can eventually cause blockages of the coolant system. Next to this the Earlier versions of the 1.0 ECOboost (build approximately before 2015) suffer from a design fault. These early versions only have a coolant temperature sensor that is mounted inside the coolant system and measures the coolant temperature. This sensor is used by the PCM to monitor the coolant temperature and control the temperature gauge and the temperature warning light. In case of a coolant leak the coolant leaks away pretty quick. When this happens the coolant temperature measures air instead of coolant. Air does not conduct the temperature very well. Because of this the PCM does not detect overheating of the engine at all or much too late. In this case when the driver notices the activated temperature warning light it is usually too late already. Serious engine damage as a result of overheating can occur without the driver even noticing. On later versions Ford solved this problem by installing an additional cylinder head temperature sensor. I have a 2013 low mileage (16000 MLS) Focus MK3 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost. When I bought the car in 2014 I already replaced the degas hose (not a recall yet at that time). Last Year the coolant reservoir developed microcracks and discoloration. This made me decide to perform the following actions: * Replace the coolant reservoir. * Replace the coolant reservoir cap. * Replace the coolant. * Install the additional electric coolant pump. After all parts were replaced I vacuum bled the coolant system and reprogrammed the PCM (necessary for the additional electric coolant pump). Luckily I have the skills/knowledge and tools to do this myself. i am currently investigating the possibility to install the additional cylinder head temperature sensor that is used on later versions of the 1.0 ECOboost. However earlier 1.0 ECOboost PCM's do not support this additional sensor. I will have to design a custom microprocessor controlled circuitry that monitors the output of both the coolant temperature sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor and outputs a signal to the PCM.1 point
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No, among the many things that must be ok for stop start to function I'm sure engine up to temp is one of them. Mine doesn't work with a cold engine1 point
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Unfortunately Harley had been put down before my original post Police have been informed, more for their information rather than expecting an investigation and prosecution. Also went past the other vets practice to make them aware as well, hopefully it was an isolated case but you never know.1 point
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I don't object to their fees, a few times when I've phoned for emergency advice they don't charge at all. Our vet is really good. I do object to the price of medications though. A lot of the time you can get the human equivalent a lot cheaper. Hope your pet isn't too sick, never nice when one of the family is ill. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk1 point
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I believe the 1.8 litre is a belt not a chain but when either of them snap something coming down meets something going up and damage results. Without knowing the degree of damage it's difficult to suggest the correct course what to do. If you can get a garage ( non Ford you know and trust would probably be better) who could give you an estimate for repair that may be your best option. If your present engine was performing well and you've had it a while it may be better sticking with an engine you know a little about rather than buying an unknown engine with it's problems. There are units coming up on e bay all the time from scrapped cars if you decide to change, but beware if you buy one I would change the belt before putting it in, you can't trust what people say has been done to the engine. Todays top tip, changing timing belts is better done 6 months early and with 5,000 miles in hand on the recommended limits rather than 1 day late and a mile too far.1 point
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Nice car, I feel inferior now as I only have the same one but as 100HP (ooh the shame....) Great little car, handles like a charm.1 point
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I think you should wait until the mk4 Focus comes out next year which will lead to the mk3 been heavily discounted. Sure if the mk4 is a much better car which I will expect it to be you could get that instead. I was going to get a normal mk3 myself in the summer but with the new car coming next year I would of been cursing myself for not waiting.1 point
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I chickened out! I didn't go to see the car lol i just sat thinking about it and come to the conclusion that if i went to drive it i would return home cursing the car that i have for being so slow lol I also don't want to just 'settle' for any ST. So im going to save a bitta cash and wait for the ST3 Estate. That is a dream car of mine so id be better to wait. Im perfectly contented with the car i have though. It gets heads turning everywhere actually. I had a good laugh today when two fiestas full of lads nearly collided trying to croon their necks for a better look lol Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk1 point
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You need the bluetooth module that is hidden above the glove box, and a harness to connect it to the head unit.1 point
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I suspect not, unfortunately. But it might be worth a try. Usually you can only clear DTCs with the ign. on but engine stopped. So if the DTC, and consequent limited power mode, happens after every engine start, then it will still go into limited power mode. But there is one chance. With some DTCs, it takes two occurrences to light the EML. If this is the case here, then it is possible that clearing the codes just before a start will enable one start cycle without limp mode. It is a good idea to save the log file(s) to disk before clearing codes, this will give a hard record of what was there, and when.1 point
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Unfortunately that's normal practice, dangerous driving all the way. If you speak to any of them about their speed and driving lines etc then you get the old reply 'I've been driving these roads for 20 years and know them like the back of my hand'. I always say that's not the point, you may well know them but not all the drivers do. It's no excuse/reason for driving like a tool Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk1 point
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Nine times out of ten, it will be the actuator, not the valve itself. The actuator is dead easy to remove, test, repair or replace. Just take off the plastic panels under the wipers, four bolts hold the actuator to the valve, and a little bracket has to be removed. The actuator can now be purchased alone, for about £100. The valve itself is a huge job, turbo, both manifolds, etc etc. If the valve really was jammed, but blanked, it would probably be possible to destroy the coupling from actuator to valve, and refit it. The actuator must work, it is tested at each turn off of the engine. The valve movement itself does not matter. I did a pdf about repairing my EGR: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=38763 An Ebay ref to the actuator (1st I found, no particular recommendation!): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-VALVE-For-FORD-Focus-Galaxy-Mondeo-4-S-Max-Transit-1-8-TDCi-1668578-1352475-/272057199632?hash=item3f57df6c10:g:TAAAAOSwUV9WpUC5 (Note title may say "valve", this is wrong, the pictured part is just the actuator.)1 point
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