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Booked :D Now hopefully can get a few friends to come along

It was a C4 did absolutely loads to it, Cams, huge WRC spoiler, coilovers, there's a pic on "things I like" thread

It sounds to me more like the heater control valve. Something of an Achilles heel on those Fiestas. Pattern parts widely available on eBay for ~£10 however they can be a false economy given the dubious quality of many (most?) and so the genuine article at ~£40 might represent a better buy in the long run.

It would cost me about 2 and a half, 3 grand to jump to an st I would like or 400 quid for the remap

All black editions come with an ecoboost badge I think. That guy must've just bought a black edition badge that somebody has made and stuck it on in it's place

It will be good to put some faces to the new names that are attending. I reckon this years show will be a cracker. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

So get it done at Mr Tyre. The word "car" = rip off. Alternative meaning = we haven't a clue and neither do we care.

Here's the eBay number for Focus ST ones 122271660004 He also does fiesta ones but not ST ones unfortunately Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk

They are from a Jag XKR I believe I've only ever seen them on a mk3.5 but then today I've seen 3 others on Instagram -.- but hey ho it's definitely a look not many have done and after we spent 3 hours getting them in the right place we know why, haha

Can we just mind where this is going lads, pretty sure we don't need to get nasty about it.

Hi guys! I have been keeping pretty quiet about my build and not really posted anything about it (might create a "my build" thread in the near future), after using useful advice and guides found on here by various members, my car is coming along really nicely. it's started out life as a 1.6 pre-facelift Ghia and will eventually look as good a possible ST replica as i can make it! in b4 anyone says "it is waste of time & money creating a replica, and i may as well put the money used in to buying an actual ST" Yes! i wholeheartedly agree with you! and would love an ST however £5-8k or possibly plus i do not and will not have for a long time (whilst the cost of living is so high near London!) so i am quite happy turning my car looks wise into an ST as i love the design of the ST, However I will NOT be trying to make it out to look like something it's not by not branding it with ST badges here there and everywhere as i do not wish to embarrass myself at a red light or on the motorway next to an actual ST or RS or the boy racer Golf GTI's and all the other hot hatches lol. So now that's out of the way, the following Mods i have done so far include: Xenon white LED interior ST rear spoiler ST rear bumper (purchased for a right steal on ebay! £68 delivered with both mounting brackets intact! ) Aftermarket stereo Subwoofer installed fitted alternative heater control knobs Mods to be done in the near future include (but not limited to): Dual exit Cat-back custom Stainless steel exhaust ST alloys ST front bumper ST side skirts Rear 3 windows tinted Either buy xenon headlights or fit HID's fit overlay Gel badges. De-badge rear and possibly fit ST badge on wings or replace with actual ST front wings. Fit Recaro interior seats Leather/cloth i don't mind too much. So on to my question! i have fitted the ST rear bumper this weekend (before the heavens opened and the rain came down thankfully!) and all went well (except from having to snap off both bolts on my old bumper as the nuts had ceased as they tend to do on the mounting bracket) but it was damaged anyways and i had no intention of keeping it. HOWEVER when it came to the two plastic screws on the underside of the bumper, the old mounting holes for these are situated at quite a distance away from the new ones? so my question is: how can i secure the bumper now from the underside? to stop it maybe flapping around at high speeds or anything like that.The bumper isn't falling off and is secure, but it is loose on the underside because of this. as you will see in my pictures, will an actual ST rear bumper reinforcement bar fix this? or is there anything else to be done that i'm missing? if anybody else has had this problem when fitting an ST rear bumper themselves or if this is just how it is? OR if somebody with an actual ST could post a picture in this thread of what the underside of their's looks like so i can compare,please let me know! any help and advice will be much appreciated! i hope you like what I've achieved so far! Carl Problem as mentioned where you can see the screws and the mountings for these screws on the original bumper are in different positions General Pics of the Car so far: Before: After (Much better!)

Ideas for my focus what would you guys do

That's probably why it was available lol [emoji23] [emoji6] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You'll need to message Trevor to do so. @Trevor

Yh wanted these for a while, cannot wait to see them on, added extra they are light weight or lighter than standard as well Stoney - yh they are replica ones, which have a slight contour to match most ford bonnets, I've had to run a tiny amount of black sealant around 2 edges on each as it's not as contoured as my bonnet but unless you get right up into the side of them you can't notice it. TBH I didn't even look to find 'real' jaguar ones Got more happening tomorrow performance mods wise

zetec s what ? focus, fiesta? why are you wanting to adjust the handbrake cable?

Ah ok cool will give them a look and thanks

Steve Elmer on Ebay is the same as the Tunnelrat Electronics ref. below, I believe. You get full Ebay protection if you get it that way. ----- Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £15.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196 The Tunnelrat ELM237s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig. http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or Bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster). The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html

The badges are aftermarket I think, from DMB Graphics.

Disconnected the egr lead, the eml light is on now but i dont on the car runs like a dream just pulled our 1100kg caravan for 60 miles up and down hills never been able to have it in 5th towing the caravan. Today i drove most of the way in 5th at a steady 55/60 without having to constantly go up and down gears. Egr valves are nothing but ***** haha

Like as above, I've got a red edition and mine has the 'Ecoboost' Badge on the left side too. 1 & 2: Nothing similar with my chairs. 3: I sometimes have that when I go full lock after I reversed off my drive to turn onto the road. Like a clunking sound is the only way I can describe it. Is this what you mean?

They'll be levied for going into certain areas instead.

Thank you Peter. The GEM is part of the passenger fuse box, so I will look for the MS CAN bus twisted pair there and check resistance and then try to follow it up to the A/C unit and look for a junction with the twisted pair of the H/S CAN bus and check the connection. I'm not sure about the anti-theft system, I don't know if it's a PATS system with the LED, it may have been updated when the ABS was incorporated into the immobiliser circuit. I'll reconnect the battery and look for a red light, it's not between the instrument dials like previous models but might be one on top of dashboard, (memory is letting me down there!). I'm about to order a Forscan modified ELM327 that is UK stock item and is advised to contain a genuine 25K80 chip with 500k connection and use genuine Silicon Labs USB chips. £15.90 inc. del. ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Modified-ELM327-USB-Ford-Elmconfig-Focccus-Forscan-Focus-Smax-Mondeo-Kuga-/222507981410?hash=item33ce825a62:g:6XgAAOSwGIRXZT2v ). I think that is probably as good as any other, unless you would recommend otherwise. Where would be the best place to obtain/download the relevant software? Thank you and regards, Keith

Shame they don't do them for mk 2.5

I'm not sure what a Ford 'Approved' box is. AFAIK Ford just re sells Thule brand boxes at a premium. Thule is the largest box produce worldwide so it's an "easy" sell for Ford. Other brands to look at that do great products are Kamei, Hapro and Inno. These are less well knows brands in the UK but I'm told Hapro is a top 3 global box producer for example. Thule also make boxes for other people and I was told by a member of staff at Halford that its own brand box was made by Thule but I don't know if this is true. There are loads of options so it's best to work out what shape box you need i.e. storing it can be a consideration for as well as what you want to put in it or what else you want to put in the roof. Also what other features you need such as loading from either side, how easy the box is to lock/open, colour and how easy it is to fit/remove. It's also worth checking what safety standards the box meets and what warranty is provided in case the worst happens.

I guess some sort of climate control unit is standard on the Mondeo, and it will be this electronic module that would be the junction point. It will be behind, or near, the a/c & heater controls. But that is from one source, fordwiki.co.uk, and it does seem odd to make this module the junction. The IC is a much more logical cross-over point. MS-CAN does not go to critical underbonnet modules like ABS, only the HS_CAN does. GEM is a Ford term for BCM. Just like PCM is a Ford term for ECU. That U0422 DTC does suggest that locating and checking this MS/HS CAN bus link might be relevant. Good point about the keys. Does the car have a PATS (immobiliser) LED? There are PATS flash codes that indicate the cause of immobiliser problems, common to most Fords. After a period of steady flashing, it sends a code as quick flashes with gaps, Example - 1 flash -PAUSE - 6 flashes = flash code 16. 16 is a (CAN bus) communication error, 13 to 15 relate to Key problems, or possibly to PATS sensor unit problems. Google PATS flash codes for more info. The lack of key or PATS related DTCs also suggests it is not a key or PATS sensor problem. However, PATS can be a bit peculiar, and the vagaries of modern software never cease to amaze and horrify me , so it is not possible to really rule out anything! .

bristol street!!! even worse.lol

Yeah I get what you mean, it's a shame it has to be done in order for any performance work to begin really. Haha it's always the noise, I would love to put videos in these forum posts but I'm not sure that is a feature. That's one of the reasons I wanted the mk2 over mk3. The mk3 misses that 5th cylinder for noise unfortuneately! No the CP340 car was a mk2. It gave me great indication of what I aspire my car to run and it was overwhelmingly impressive. Bearing in mind I'm used to getting the go ahead to drive AMGs around at work, it really did give me a good buzz of excitement and surprising power. I guess I better stop posting then mate! Aha they aren't expensive to buy! Just to run.. Thanks very much bro #blackclan Actually can't wait to have it done. I'm needing to save now really, got about £1500 left before I can get it all done (RS clutch, RS injectors, Collins Actuator & CP340 Map). I bet the vents will look awesome, I'm considering it in the future but I'd probably go for something different! Which diffuser have you gone for? I'm 100% for the RS spoiler, it's one of the visual mods I want to do soonish gives it that extra level of agressiveness. Yeah can't disregard the need for brakes. That's silly money! Friend is having his with Garrett turbo and forged engine etc soon as they found a cracked piston.. The map he was running from a well known tuner was too agressive for standard internals it appears. Have been debating getting a quick shifter as they are quite a cheap addition - would you recommend one?

It's more of a massive meet than car show as such. There are a few things going on but most of the "entertainment" is looking round all the cars and watching people on track. You also have a massive trader area and of course the usuals like mountune and Ford are there. Ford usually put on a stunt show with one of the current performance car line up and have their new cars on show.

I smell a rat

Awwww fanks

Yes, my old WD Matchless ran a Burman box, but that's not really relevant. As stef123 requests I'm not going to play with someone who seems determined to argue. It's not fair on the other forum users that you're having a public pop at me and polluting a thread that they have to read. You got a problem with me then pm me direct and I'll be happy to delete it.

I lowered mine on Eibachs 35mm, you can go lower H&R do a 45mm drop but I didn't want to make the ride too harsh, and plus I promised no mods when I purchased the focus 😂

Yeah mate looks way better nice gray as well

Unless anyone knows of any other set that will look smart

I was looking for a set of St alloys but there are so many fakes around hard to sort the genuine from the fake

Lowering it is definitely on the list

https://autobeam.co.uk/products/led-footwell-interior-upgrade-premium

Hi & welcome Emma, ignore the reprobate that said get a Focus, how are you finding the KA+? I have not seen a KA+ in person yet but they look like a great improvement on the the original KA, hope you keep yourself a regular round here and it would be great to see you at Ford Fair if you fancy the long drive from Scotland, anyway don't be afraid to ask questions even the silliest I'm sure we would all try and help anyway we can

I'd say lower it first Eibach or H&R depending how low you want to go.

Hi mate unplug the sensor and the valve will stay shut and the car will run smooth just means you will have eml light on but car should work fine or you could just blank it egrs are useless

from the turbo you will see a section of plastic running parallel to the injectors, its a little further along that plastic pipe that you see the rubber bend which joins the metal intercooler pipe, at that join before the rubber bend you will see it also connects to a plastic housing that has the silicone pipe from the intercooler joining in from the underside. that is the bypass valve, basically when its cold it dumps the air straight in to the engine without going passed the IC, when it warm it routes the air via the IC instead to cool it down, I'm guessing it only bypasses it when starting the car, once the engine heats up it will be getting pretty toasty from the pressure and the turbo

You need new or nearly new tyres, or its not worth bothering. To do it properly the tyres need to be set to an exact cold pressure. Ride height needs to be checked against the book , because if springs have sagged with age/mileage it'll be off (a skilled engineer can compensate the figures for it) because the suspension moves in an arc, which alters the angle at which the wheel is sitting - every single person I have watched, bar one, never bothers with those two steps, so fails straight away. You man at Fred in A Shed Tyres, or Bombsite Exhuasts, is almost guaranteed absolutely to not do this. If you're really anal, or if you have a race or track day car, you'll have it done with the drivers weight simulate in the seat so the suspension is at the height at which the car is driven when the FWA is set. You will never, ever get a tip top FWA anywhere outside of a good quality accident repair specialist, or a Motorsport/race car engineers. I know I'm very anal because I studied Automotive Science and Engineering at Uni like my Dad before me, but most Fred in a Sheds are absolute butchers.

the 10W wont make much of a difference unless you live someplace very cold, it certainly wont be a problem this side of winter but the 40, on this specific engine might be problem, the 40 relates to a viscosity at 100c which as it happens is about the operating temperature of this engine. the problem is this car has some nasty side effects around the oil feed pipes for the turbo, a thicker oil will mean its going to be that little bit harder pumping oil around it, it also has a tendency to build up carbon deposits which will make the thicker oil even thicker. Personally, id be changing that as soon as possible but I wouldn't be too worried about it if you look after the car, change the oil before 12k etc. the next thing id do if I were you is get a couple of jack stands and a few tools and learn to do it yourself.

well passed my test yesterday so just got onto fordpartsuk and ordered some, thanks for advice everyone

I used to have a Granada Scorpio 4x4 and the brake pads had sensors in them. When they needed changing a light came on on the dashboard. At a service, Ford main dealer insisted the pads needed changing and I pointed out that the light wasn't on so I didn't have them changed. The light came on two years later. I'm a retired police driver so I am very light on the brakes.

Update time :) Start with a snowfoam pic best bit about a wash :) On to the upgrades! So before I dropped a hint that I had obtained a newish Airtec Stage 2 Intercooler. The original writing was red, and obviously this didn't fit in with the theming of my car. I took it upon myself to re spray the cooler in satin black and then add lime green Airtec symbol to match everything up.. I used a stencil and the same paint I used for my callipers. The Focus ST struggles on the standard intercooler and it's pretty much an essential upgrade to increase power significantly. Should help keep my intake temps down, and helps produce better power. As you can imagine it's quite a bit larger than the standard item from factory... Wasn't too bad of a job to get fitted, did take a little time but not as bad as people made out. Didn't even need to remove the front bumper, just dropped undertrays and worked next to the radiator. Fitted! One of my favourite shots from the front to show the cooler; I also felt that I should try and stick with just a more dominant colour so instead of having the white writing badges I got a new set ordered on gloss black background with lime green writing. If anyone wants these made to your specification, I can send you the right way (£28 for full set incl front, back, steering wheel, and 4 wheel centre cap overlays). I also wanted to support the Focus ST OC as I am now a member and use the forums on there quite a lot, learning new things and conversing with others That's it for now, the car is running the best it ever has with the intercooler on! I think it's starting to come together look wise, I do have another modification coming for the visual side of things (more so atleast) however am having to chase the company up sadly. Will update when I can as per usual, thanks guys

We had alot of heavy rain here last night and this morning so I removed the grommet under the car and the cavity and insulation are bone dry, result! The damp smell has gone too as the insulation was holding water causing an old damp dishcloth smell, not nice in a 12 plate car!

Thanks for that, it makes sense, I couldn't see anything wrong with my connectors but just splitting and rejoining them sorted the warning lamp, so top tip for me. Cheers Steve

Hi thanks for replies, mine is a 4 door model, today I split the connectors under both front seats, I drove it for approx 5 miles and so far it has not come back on, previously it was getting worse comming on virtually straight away, so hopefully sorted, I'll post again on Monday when I have covered some more miles. Cheers Steve