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Just heard on the news that the UK reached an all time record of peaking at 27 vaccinations/second, and almost 900,000 in one day. What an amazing achievement!

Helper springs would be the solution in that case. https://mad-suspension.co.uk/cars/#selecteer-dealer2

I’ve got a Mk3.5 Ecoboost Auto, it’s the 1.0 125PS engine, though I have a slightly older 6-speed auto box. It’s a nice combo and the engine seems to suit the box as it’s quite torquey. The Mk4 switched to an 8-speed and I’ve heard good things about it. Both autos are the more conventional torque converters which makes them nice and smooth, and great for manoeuvring. They both have locking torque converters that kick in very low in the gears (2nd on mine) so any of the usual torque converter losses are negated once you’re underway.

Your one is set to LIN based compass. Maybe there is a gateway so it might be worth Daniele setting it to the 04 option. It might work. @Daniele kuga II 2014 I would try the following in IPC AsBuilt. 720-03-01 XXXX XX04 XX - Compass from GPS on LIN bus

Hello I use an independent mechanic that my family have used for the last 20 years and he is excellent. My car has had 2 full services and 1 oil and filter change in the last 3 years and for all of them I have only been charged £210 in total. If I had taken it to my local main dealer it would have been 4 times that minimum!!!!! I think if you can find an independent mechanic who you can trust and is highly recommended by people you can't go wrong or be ripped off. Hope this helps

Yes, his cluster changed colour as well. It comes from the FoCCCus changes. I looked at a Kuga IPC AsBuilt. And there are 2 settings for the compass in the IPC ECU config. One is the bus it reads it on and the other is the source. By default they are set to LIN for the bus and MFD for the source for cars without a GPSM. This now needs changing to MS-CAN and GPS to work with the GPSM module. But there are so many different displays and versions and they all have slightly different configs so I need his IPC AsBuilt file so I can match it up so I know exactly what numbers to change and to what.

That was quick having the second one. Oh, duplicate posts.😂😂😂😂😂

Hi all and special thanks to FoCue for his post and for Colinmcg for the youtube video. Following the information Focue posted I have used ForScan (for the very first time) and have set the Autolock to enabled on my Focus Mk4. One or two things a little tricky, (1) The car likes to switch off the ignition by itself after about 4 minutes to save the battery. Not vey good when I'm in the middle of programming. (2) Probably due to it being a Mk4 the option of BCMii has been called "BdyCM" (3) there were a possible 6 'Auto Lock' settings' so I went with the one called "Auto Lock - Vehicle". All ended well and Auto Lock works at about 6 MPH. Would love to understand what the other options were for, but I don't want to push my luck as I said earlier this is the first time I've used ForScan.

Yes it does. I have the 8 speed in a 1.5. It's a smooth box, I like it. Bit slow when going from D to R and back but other than that it's a good one.

It’s just as easy to enable on the Mk4 Focus & Mk8 Fiesta, and once enabled in FORScan it just works. No need to go through the ignition on, press lock button three times, ignition off, press lock button faff that I had to do on my previous Mk3.5. This video shows it being enabled on a Mk8 Fiesta. Same process for the Mk4 Focus.

It's not enabled by default you do get auto locking by speed if you need the car to auto lock when you are inside. To set this up follow the below instructions. You will need ELM327 lead https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ (or better a https://www.obdlink.com/ex/ lead offers more future support) Forscan software https://forscan.org/ Laptop & charger – you do not want it to die mid flash! Optional: Car battery charger – battery needs to be 100% before performing the update Make sure Forscan is installed, setup (not demo mode) and you have a license. The process Turn the vehicle ignition ON (do not start, foot off clutch) Connect to the vehicle, wait for all the modules to be read Click “configuration and programming” (6 down) Select “BCMii Central Configuration (main)” Click play (bottom left) Read and understand the warning Click “OK” Wait for the process to run, turn ignition off when requested Change “mode” from “normal” to “engineering 1” (top left) Make a backup of the current settings by clicking “Save” button (bottom toolbar) Select “Automatic locking by speed” from the list of options Click “edit selected” button (bottom toolbar) In the pop-up select “02 – Automatic Locking”, then confirm with the tick Click “Write” button (bottom toolbar) Confirm the pop-up with the tick Follow the prompt to turn the ignition back on Read and understand the warning again Click “OK” “Block(s) programmed successfully” should be displayed along with a message to cycle ignition. Do this then click “OK” Stop Forscan by clicking the stop button (bottom toolbar) Clear DTC fault codes Due to the way the update is processed and written to the car BCM you will get a number of fault codes shown. These can be cleared using Forscan Enter DTC Select Module with code At the bottom, 2nd from the left click “Reset DTC”, confirm “Yes” on pop-up Follow on screen instructions to cycle the ignition First Time Setup Go to https://forscan.org/ download & install Once installed go to settings, uncheck “demo mode” Register on the Forscan.org forum Register for the 2 month free extended license http://forscan.org/forum/extlic.php Better yet, support the development buy a full license from download page https://forscan.org/download.html Follow the steps from the forum to copy the hardware id from your installed version of Forscan into the request on the Forscan forum extended license generator One you have the license import it and start forscan for the first time, follow the instructions given for the setup of switch positions on the ELM327 lead / odblink and the ignition Forscan will look at your vehicle and detect the settings, modules and any system faults. Once setup is complete you are free to perform your chosen update / modification

Don't think it's been stolen! Things like that don't happen too much up here... thankfully. More likely that they've not noticed the payment coming out of the bank. Chap I was working with when I saw it said he heard it had broken down (n/s rear suspension broke) and was towed/lifted there by loadall and has been there for a couple of years. We actually had the windows professionally tinted in Glasgow when we went down on holiday.

The (manual) gearbox is the same but the gear ratio's are different.

Hi newbie from west lothian Scotland Picking up our Focus st-line X edition 155 mhev tomorrow 😊

This for not getting car jacked? 😆 I’ll need to remember to avoid Durham ! 😝

No I mean I had an oil and filter change on every service but on the major services I had oil, oil filter, air filter etc changed.

No, for christ's sake. If you're changing the oil, change the fking filter as well! #IGiveUp

Thanks @Steevo25. I helped Danielle out with the correct wiring for the GPSM module in order for it to be visible in Forscan and it now shows navigation and compass on the sync 2 screen which is good. That's as far as I can go I think. It would appear that Danielle's car did not have the GPSM as standard as when you take the clocks out there is a bracket and the GPSM module is mounted to the bracket but above so you cant see the module. Danielle's car was missing the bracket. As far as I knoe Danielle hasn't uploaded a sync 2 apim from a kuga. When I did nine from a 2016 car it changed the IPC display. I can't remember 100% whether that was before or after I changed the settings using Foccus. Those changes are the same for the Kuga as well but one of those settings is number 214 which changes the IPC. That could be why it is not showing compass under the digital speed.

Tilt the mirror all the way down and jam a screwdriver into the clips and it should pop off. A torch can help to see in there better.

It certainly is! Meanwhile our "friends and partners" across the Channel seem determined to dig themselves deeper into a hole.😀

Mk3 ? I see you have 2 reverse lights. Mk4 has 1 . It’s LED but not nearly bright enough.

I do sympathise - been through all that over the years and debate about stay put or move is still ongoing! Met up with the pal I mentioned above earlier this week for a walk for the first time in months (socially distanced etc!) and he and his Mrs are now talking about going back to two cars - both Fiestas! His logic, which I can (sort of) follow, is that they both enjoy driving Fiestas (they got their first in 1979) and whoever needs to leave the house first can just jump into whichever is first on the drive without thinking about adapting to a different car!

£500 . The door protectors are meant to be flimsy crap , park assist (I’ve not tried but jury’s still out) the reverse camera is ok as long as it’s not raining! Yet I still want these things. Definitely the camera if they sort out it’s rain issues

Turbo seals shot so that engine is running on /consuming its own oil? If yes, then beware it will destroy the engine!

Personally i would take your car to a good local garage rather than ford as ford technicians have a habit of breaking things while working on the cars, and also just doing a crap job then charging you through the teath for it

On dear. Well, if you're sure the paint isn't broken you can safely leave it - depends how much it bugs you. I left the last one I had and the sales guy didn't even spot it at trade in time. Previously I've used local paintless dent removal franchisees - depends who you have in your area. It helps if you can get a recommendation - I found both my local Honda and Ford dealers farmed out such work and were happy to recommend the guy they used.

That’s correct I’ve done this in my 2015 fiesta the only thing I’m still to do is the voice wires for the nav

So, I didn’t win the debate of getting a new car unfortunately. She made a good point what’s the point in having two fiesta’s (apparently because one is more than than the other isn’t a valid point 🤔). We’ve since been through looking at getting a new house to going back to sticking with where we are for a few years. And with that have gone from selling my car and getting a new one, to selling my car, to not selling my car and back to possibly selling my car and running one. So maybe in another few years I’ll be back but appreciate all the opinions and advice! I did suggest that a focus ST would be a family car if she wants something bigger 🤔 🤪

thanks for the link have ordered the parts \£295.00, thanks.

Is your focus a mk3 or mk2? And which engine do you have? A lot of Ford's have the cat as part of the exhaust manifold rather than the undercarriage. It's basically impossible to get a saw/grinder to the top side of the mani-cat (without unbolting it from the car obviously).

If your ford focus does not recognize your key the immobiliser light will flash and the car won't start. try turning the key to the second position 4 times and then initialize the start mode to reset the immobiliser.

Blue = GPS. Black = FM antenna (required for TMC reception). Pink = FM antenna (pass through from FCDIM to ACM). These are regular 2-pole Fakra connectors.

Hi - does anyone have a picture of what the OEM 5" Mk3 PreFacelift display looks like with front parking sensors? Is it just the same as I have but with 4 (or 6) extra columns of green / yellow rectangles at the front? cheers

@zain611sorry to hear your news. We're all here for you.

There is no autolock?

did you ever think of putting some windows in it over the six years of ownership? must have had some great warm jackets,

Warning triangle. Only supplied by Ford in countries where mandatory

Ok got it thanks for the clear explanation. So essentially don't leave my car to drop beloe 65% charge.

the fact the issue happens when the brake pedal is pressed surgests that it the brake booster not the manifold leaking, just saying

Sorry to revive an old thread, just thought I’d update it in case anyone else wants better light from their reverse lights, I went with some LED bulbs from Autobeam, which I can see Ennvo has as well. Much better light, even had a couple of friends tell me it’s “blinding” 😆

It is not yet confirmed officially but German sources announced that from April there will be several changes regarding the Focus MK4. The biggest changes will be that the Vignale trim level will be discontinued and the cilinder deactivation technology will be discontinued. On other forums there are already messages of Focus Vignale orders that were scheduled to be produced after 01-04-2021 that are cancelled by Ford.

I don't like coming across an old car of ours today! You may laugh, but we have 4 kids spanning 6 or so years so our choices were limited, and they were aged from about 6 upwards at the time. Apart from being a bit cumbersome it was a comfy old thing to drive, absolutely solid. Strange thing is that the MOT ran out a few years ago but it's still taxed! 🤔🤷

I just use ford z zap and check out the part numbers and post here. Not rocket science ( luckily)

The ford badge on the rear on an original ford tailgate is 1779943 on MK2. Or try 1532603 , that's a MK2.5 one that fits on the trim with no pins.

For anyone thinking of paying £25 for the sync loom that has a rca connector. Don’t waste your money. Just buy one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274064387527 and add two pins into the connector yourself.

Last time I saw a case like this was in 'The Love Bug', circa 1969.

In that case I would just find a rosenberger HSD connector from a electronic component supplier and make the adapter cable myself.

All done i should ! be safe from the Blue lights now as this complies with regulations.A bit more wiring involved but all easy to do Reverse wires were orange/blue and black. White now comes on when reverse is selected. Hit the brake any time and it turns red even in reverse as in picture. These lights come in different szies to fit Fiesta and Focus/Mondeo.

Nighttime shots,not too clear wifey parked to close to my bumper to get right behind.

1) What was in the Box. , Light , Orange tassle , fitting instructions , even wife did not want orange tassle , she is so ungratefull ;) 2) Image before i started 3) Using hex screw driver bit , remove the 2 screws in finger recess , panel is secured then by at least 7 push fit clips , working from the bottom up to each side , balancing the panel and not dropping it like it did.:) 4) Panel removed. 5) With 10mm socket undo 6 securing nut's , there are 2 plastic clips that stop it dropping to the floor. Undo wiring plug. prize out gromet from the front . Drop down allowing plastic clips to be pulled up and remove trim. 7) Rear view with trim removed 8) Removed trim 9) This is where the tears started to flow , realizing that the badge was thin metal shape fully secured to the plastic trim with double sided tape. First tried a little pressure , this was never going to happen. On the back of the badge location "no going back" i got out my trusted Fake Dremell "cheaper version" and ground away the plastic injection mould at the rear of the badge to gain access to the badge. 10) using a small bladed sharp knife i inserted the blade into the hole working my way around to cut the securing tape. I had to make the whole bigger to allow better access. Working slowly i cut through the tape and removed the very thin badge 11) This is what was left. :o Soon realizing that if i fitted the light onto where the bagde had come from there was no way it was going to fit. "swearing session began". 12) Deep breath. back to my fake dremell , using one of the cutting bits i set about removing the badge backing from the trim .Cut finger later and using small sanding bit i smoother off the cut edge 13) Placing the trim back up against the car , and trying the Light badge in the space , i realized the badge was slighty too wide and the bottom edge was not sitting very good on the lower section , so i smoothed out the bottom edge with the fake dremell and also reduced the two sides until it felt like a good fit. 14) Trip to Halfords to get some Double sided numberplate pads , and stuck the Cleaned up badge to the LIght fitting, and re-tested the light 15) Made a small hole in the Rubber gromet and fed the wires through. 16) Re-fitted the trim to the car and inserted the rubber gromet , pealed back of light pad sticky 3M and positioned into place (Smiling at this point) , Nice fit after all my efforts. Trip back to Halfords as i forgot my scotchlocks and also got some clear silicon. Pulled badge forward a little and applied clear sealent to the outside edge and pushed back into place and wiped clean. 17) Wiring. The number plate wires were coloured Black and Yellow , connected Black to Black and Yellow to Red light cables. Fingers crossed i turned the lights on .It worked. 18) Now for the brake light , Removing the top boot trim located the wires to the rear LED brake light , removed the rear brake light and unplugged the wire's. pulled wires back through to get better access. both wires were black :o .Fed new wire down right hand side of window trim and scotchlocked into one of the wires. Used my tester and dragged son down to press brake pedal. Pure luck i had hit the positive feed. Reassembled the LED and secured wiring and replaced the top trim. Scotchlocked now into the Green Wire from the light, and tested. Prefect :) . Tieded up the wiring and replaced the boot Trim and inserted the 2 screws back into the finger recess. 19) I will take some night pictures , first impression are very nice, White light is a little to bright IMHO so i will add a resister in there to reduce the intensity of the white light. Red light , works well but not exact same redness as the brake lights and is dimmer than the normal brake lights , i wlll of course be watching for any Blue lights :D .With side lights on White light goes out when you hit brakes it is replaced by the red. No lights on then the red light comes on when you Brake.