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Just heard on the news that the UK reached an all time record of peaking at 27 vaccinations/second, and almost 900,000 in one day. What an amazing achievement!

Helper springs would be the solution in that case. https://mad-suspension.co.uk/cars/#selecteer-dealer2

I’ve got a Mk3.5 Ecoboost Auto, it’s the 1.0 125PS engine, though I have a slightly older 6-speed auto box. It’s a nice combo and the engine seems to suit the box as it’s quite torquey. The Mk4 switched to an 8-speed and I’ve heard good things about it. Both autos are the more conventional torque converters which makes them nice and smooth, and great for manoeuvring. They both have locking torque converters that kick in very low in the gears (2nd on mine) so any of the usual torque converter losses are negated once you’re underway.

Your one is set to LIN based compass. Maybe there is a gateway so it might be worth Daniele setting it to the 04 option. It might work. @Daniele kuga II 2014 I would try the following in IPC AsBuilt. 720-03-01 XXXX XX04 XX - Compass from GPS on LIN bus

Hello I use an independent mechanic that my family have used for the last 20 years and he is excellent. My car has had 2 full services and 1 oil and filter change in the last 3 years and for all of them I have only been charged £210 in total. If I had taken it to my local main dealer it would have been 4 times that minimum!!!!! I think if you can find an independent mechanic who you can trust and is highly recommended by people you can't go wrong or be ripped off. Hope this helps

Yes, his cluster changed colour as well. It comes from the FoCCCus changes. I looked at a Kuga IPC AsBuilt. And there are 2 settings for the compass in the IPC ECU config. One is the bus it reads it on and the other is the source. By default they are set to LIN for the bus and MFD for the source for cars without a GPSM. This now needs changing to MS-CAN and GPS to work with the GPSM module. But there are so many different displays and versions and they all have slightly different configs so I need his IPC AsBuilt file so I can match it up so I know exactly what numbers to change and to what.

That was quick having the second one. Oh, duplicate posts.😂😂😂😂😂

Hi all and special thanks to FoCue for his post and for Colinmcg for the youtube video. Following the information Focue posted I have used ForScan (for the very first time) and have set the Autolock to enabled on my Focus Mk4. One or two things a little tricky, (1) The car likes to switch off the ignition by itself after about 4 minutes to save the battery. Not vey good when I'm in the middle of programming. (2) Probably due to it being a Mk4 the option of BCMii has been called "BdyCM" (3) there were a possible 6 'Auto Lock' settings' so I went with the one called "Auto Lock - Vehicle". All ended well and Auto Lock works at about 6 MPH. Would love to understand what the other options were for, but I don't want to push my luck as I said earlier this is the first time I've used ForScan.

Yes it does. I have the 8 speed in a 1.5. It's a smooth box, I like it. Bit slow when going from D to R and back but other than that it's a good one.

It’s just as easy to enable on the Mk4 Focus & Mk8 Fiesta, and once enabled in FORScan it just works. No need to go through the ignition on, press lock button three times, ignition off, press lock button faff that I had to do on my previous Mk3.5. This video shows it being enabled on a Mk8 Fiesta. Same process for the Mk4 Focus.

It's not enabled by default you do get auto locking by speed if you need the car to auto lock when you are inside. To set this up follow the below instructions. You will need ELM327 lead https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ (or better a https://www.obdlink.com/ex/ lead offers more future support) Forscan software https://forscan.org/ Laptop & charger – you do not want it to die mid flash! Optional: Car battery charger – battery needs to be 100% before performing the update Make sure Forscan is installed, setup (not demo mode) and you have a license. The process Turn the vehicle ignition ON (do not start, foot off clutch) Connect to the vehicle, wait for all the modules to be read Click “configuration and programming” (6 down) Select “BCMii Central Configuration (main)” Click play (bottom left) Read and understand the warning Click “OK” Wait for the process to run, turn ignition off when requested Change “mode” from “normal” to “engineering 1” (top left) Make a backup of the current settings by clicking “Save” button (bottom toolbar) Select “Automatic locking by speed” from the list of options Click “edit selected” button (bottom toolbar) In the pop-up select “02 – Automatic Locking”, then confirm with the tick Click “Write” button (bottom toolbar) Confirm the pop-up with the tick Follow the prompt to turn the ignition back on Read and understand the warning again Click “OK” “Block(s) programmed successfully” should be displayed along with a message to cycle ignition. Do this then click “OK” Stop Forscan by clicking the stop button (bottom toolbar) Clear DTC fault codes Due to the way the update is processed and written to the car BCM you will get a number of fault codes shown. These can be cleared using Forscan Enter DTC Select Module with code At the bottom, 2nd from the left click “Reset DTC”, confirm “Yes” on pop-up Follow on screen instructions to cycle the ignition First Time Setup Go to https://forscan.org/ download & install Once installed go to settings, uncheck “demo mode” Register on the Forscan.org forum Register for the 2 month free extended license http://forscan.org/forum/extlic.php Better yet, support the development buy a full license from download page https://forscan.org/download.html Follow the steps from the forum to copy the hardware id from your installed version of Forscan into the request on the Forscan forum extended license generator One you have the license import it and start forscan for the first time, follow the instructions given for the setup of switch positions on the ELM327 lead / odblink and the ignition Forscan will look at your vehicle and detect the settings, modules and any system faults. Once setup is complete you are free to perform your chosen update / modification

Don't think it's been stolen! Things like that don't happen too much up here... thankfully. More likely that they've not noticed the payment coming out of the bank. Chap I was working with when I saw it said he heard it had broken down (n/s rear suspension broke) and was towed/lifted there by loadall and has been there for a couple of years. We actually had the windows professionally tinted in Glasgow when we went down on holiday.

The (manual) gearbox is the same but the gear ratio's are different.

I'm looking to buy a Ford Focus and would like your advice and help. We're a family four and the kids are going to be very tall very fast so the extra leg room will be welcome. I haven't owned a car for the last 15 years, just hiring one when needed or using the car club cars from time to time so I'm way out of my depth when it comes to all the standard gadgetry and stuff. I'll be doing mainly short city trips with longer weekend drives and a once or twice a year extended trip. (but even that doesn't mean much since I grew up in Australia where a trip across town could be 2 hours each way) I'm looking at a 2018-2019 manual petrol but that's about as far as I've managed to whittle it down. I cannot seem to figure out what the differences are between the different trims (zetec, st-line, titanium) and how to tell which version of the centre console is in each individual car - some 2018s seem to have the later version and some 2019s seem to have the older version. Does anyone do a real side by side comparison of the specifications with checkboxes? And then, what do I actually want? I know I don't care about sat nav as long as I can hook into Android/Apple Car. Keyfree type things are nice but not necessary and a sure fire way to ensure that I lose my keys. Rain sensing wipers seem a bit of overkill when you live in Scotland and they're generally going to just be on anyway. Any tips? Anything I should be looking for?

This for not getting car jacked? 😆 I’ll need to remember to avoid Durham ! 😝

No I mean I had an oil and filter change on every service but on the major services I had oil, oil filter, air filter etc changed.

Mate, I have to turn on the rear fog light to reverse into my driveway!

If you have a local independent garage like I have used for 20 odd years they are brilliant small but you get 1to1 contact fast booking in times and want to keep up reputation by good service You can ask them to use Ford parts if required, lve found they actually do more on a service and actually investigate any concerns you have instead of picking up the car, and finding it's still doing what you asked them to or the usual it's normal for the car My sons ST had a rattle for awhile in mornings in to Ford a few times no issue found. Took it to my local independent and investigated it to find it was an engine mount that had gone, swapped it out solved the issue.

Yep, France, Poland, Germany & Italy now all increasing into the 'lockdown' hole. If only there had been a way to avoid that... You know, like not suspending the use of a vaccine, scaring their citizens of it's use, then wondering why when it's been re-introduced, their population doesn't want it.

It certainly is! Meanwhile our "friends and partners" across the Channel seem determined to dig themselves deeper into a hole.😀

Hi welcome

I do sympathise - been through all that over the years and debate about stay put or move is still ongoing! Met up with the pal I mentioned above earlier this week for a walk for the first time in months (socially distanced etc!) and he and his Mrs are now talking about going back to two cars - both Fiestas! His logic, which I can (sort of) follow, is that they both enjoy driving Fiestas (they got their first in 1979) and whoever needs to leave the house first can just jump into whichever is first on the drive without thinking about adapting to a different car!

£500 . The door protectors are meant to be flimsy crap , park assist (I’ve not tried but jury’s still out) the reverse camera is ok as long as it’s not raining! Yet I still want these things. Definitely the camera if they sort out it’s rain issues

Try the following but take a copy of the IPC AsBuilt first. In Forscan, go into the AsBuilt for the IPC. Save a copy. Then change the following only: 720-08-01 X9XX XXXX XX Do not change any of the X values. This is the GPS source on a Focus to point to the GPSM module. Hopefully it is the same on a Kuga.

I’ve not driven the 1L mk4s but if buying used see if u can find a 1.5L petrol engine for that extra power , also The manual gearbox in the 1L is different/inferior to the bigger engine models apparently. 150ps or 182ps would be my minimum. Biggest tip tho...get an automatic! Unless your rally driving

Engine oil posts are better than watching YouTube!!! I swear oil manufacturers and Catholic priests all went to the same school!!

Personally i would take your car to a good local garage rather than ford as ford technicians have a habit of breaking things while working on the cars, and also just doing a crap job then charging you through the teath for it

On dear. Well, if you're sure the paint isn't broken you can safely leave it - depends how much it bugs you. I left the last one I had and the sales guy didn't even spot it at trade in time. Previously I've used local paintless dent removal franchisees - depends who you have in your area. It helps if you can get a recommendation - I found both my local Honda and Ford dealers farmed out such work and were happy to recommend the guy they used.

Hey guys! Been a little while since I've been on, so just thought I'd update you all on what's been happening and on progress. To start with, I just came out of hospital a few days ago from a surgery so recovering from that has put everything on hold for the time being until I'm able to get outside and back in the garage without any pain. Before going into hospital, I managed to fit the MSD coilpack but the leads seem wayyyyy too long for the engine even though they're supposedly made for the puma engine 😕. I've had a go at changing the crank seal but ripped the seal so old one has gone back on for now until the new one arrives next week. I test fitted the new lightened flywheel, which fits perfectly and does up with no problems, so that's all good to go! Next thing to do now is to fit the new clutch and we should be ready for the engine to be fitted! I did manage to take off the rocker cover which I've started cleaning up ready for painting (decided to go for a fresh coat of matte silver just to freshen it up) and that just needs a new seal. Looking at the cams, they look in very good condition which is a massive bonus and means the engine has been looked after.

If anyone wants to buy one, this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0039O2JSU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 fitted perfectly

Sorry to hear that Zain.Being bed bound is a killer for sure.Destroys bones and all muscles including the heart rapidly.

Excellent information and write up. I might even give this a go on my Focus.

There is no autolock?

Last log book was issued after the MOT ran out...but doesn't coincide with the month that the tax expires which is odd. Presumably it's been stolen (I hope cars generally don't look like that there!) and the owner hasn't cancelled their recurring tax payment... £330 a year and they aren't noticing it in their bank statements!!

Great idea for space utiliasation! I bought a pair of brackets ages ago to install on my parcel shelf to store an umbrella, but put them away somewhere so safe, haven't seen them since purchase! LOL You just reminded me...

We've just purchased a Mondeo Mk 4 Titanium X estate Loving the new car so far, had Mondeo company cars in the past but had to send them into the stealers for any works, So looking forward to learning a lot as I'll be doing all the repairs and servicing from now on.

How many times does @JW1982 have to say it , if you put the wrong specification oil in your particular engine it will affect the (wet) timing belt integrity. If the belt fails it's goodbye engine, so YES it 'could' and very likely WILL harm your engine! Change the oil and filter as soon as possible and hope it hasn't already damaged the timing belt.

Hi David, I can understand that your car might not want to start after 2 or 3 weeks. The battery will need to have at least 65% of its capacity left in order to have enough power to start the engine. So if we assume that due to the age of the battery and how well it was charged when you parked up, plus the cold weather recently then your 65Ah battery may be a lot less than you think - say perhaps only 90% which is about 58.5Ah. Then if we say the battery needs to be 65% of that to have a fair chance of starting the car than would mean you would need 38Ah left. So if we take the 58Ah we started with and subtract the 38Ah that we need to start the engine then that means you afford to use 20Ah on standby which is about 8 days. Forgive me if I've got the maths wrong, but I'm sure you can get the idea that after just over a week of doing nothing your car might not have enough left in the battery to start.

Sorry to revive an old thread, just thought I’d update it in case anyone else wants better light from their reverse lights, I went with some LED bulbs from Autobeam, which I can see Ennvo has as well. Much better light, even had a couple of friends tell me it’s “blinding” 😆

I have the CEUK ones too: https://www.carenhancementsuk.co.uk/products/mk4-focus-led-sequential-indicator-unit Easy to install - the cap pops off with a bit of leverage without the need to remove the glass.

You’ve not been taken for a ride, you had a choice where to buy the product, you chose the most convenient and also slightly more expensive option, their price promise states web prices including shipping etc, so if it was on the wilkos website for £9 it would have had £2 added for you to collect it (at your inconvenience) or £5-8 delivery, so the difference is either £5, £2 or -£1 depending how I convinced you wanted to be.

This is the camera https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T3SRHMD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EdcpFbH4F8P4M The other cable no longer available on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZIZON-Connector-Camera-Harness-Extension/dp/B07G16KK4F but can be found on aliexpress Or Full loom available for sync 1to3 from eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-To-8-PNP-Conversion-Power-Harness-Fit-For-Ford-SYNC-1-2-To-SYNC-3-Black/193511199731?_mwBanner=1&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2Fe11070.m3698.l7534%2F7%3Feuid%3D73d346d2a47e4894a13838de9b6abfe5%26bu%3D43117124283%26segname%3D11070%26crd%3D20200818112243%26osub%3D-1~1%26ch%3Dosgood%26loc%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193511199731%26sojTags%3Dbu%3Dbu%2Cch%3Dch%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Curl%3Dloc%2Cosub%3Dosub%26srcrot%3De11070.m3698.l7534%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3D02dcaf9a1740aa6a0384e7a4ffffe73d&ul_noapp=true&pageci=a7cd5dca-5977-4260-842b-23092efd28c5

Just thought I'd post a quick update for anyone who may stumble across this in the future. In the end, I plumped for the reverse camera kit from Empirical In-car Technology (https://www.in-car-install.co.uk/ford-focus-hatch-2015-2018-reversing-reverse-camera-kit.html). It came with all the kit needed to complete the job, all the wiring, the loom, the camera (obviously) and a USB stick with all the instructions and installation images. I installed it and I'm over the moon with it. Absolutely brilliant. A brief summary of the installation steps: Remove trim around the gear stick, Remove control panel, Remove trim around Sync unit, Remove Sync unit, Remove glovebox, Plug in new loom in to back of Sync unit, Run to new control unit and affix behind glovebox using a cable tie, Run cable from behind dash, behind the side trim and in to top of door rubbers, Run along passenger side door rubbers and through to tailgate, Through the rubber hose between the roof and tailgate and then behind the boot trim, Change tailgate handle to the one with the integrated camera, Test and then put everything back together. Required tools: T20 Torx screwdriver (make sure it is stubby to fit underneath the glovebox door), Trim removal tools, to avoid unnecessary scratches, Phillips head screwdriver to remove boot trim, Optional tools: Snake tool to assist running cables (I used a wire coat hanger and sellotape!) Needle nose pliers for that little bit of help just pulling the connector through the rubber hose in the tailgate, A small screwdriver/multitool to help releasing connectors. Personal time to complete: 4 hours (but it can easily be done in a couple if you're comfortable with removing trim and taking things apart quickly). The end result is a good quality camera with moving wheel lines and parking sensors. Couldn't be happier and well worth it! Hope this helps anyone in the future.

Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the Rosenberger HSD connector are used for the video signal from the rear view camera. Pin 3 and Pin 4 are not used. The type of connector you need is a Rosenberger HSD type E connector. You can also use a Rosenberger HSD type Z connector. Just like the fakra connectors the Rosenberger type Z connector is compatible with all versions of this connector.

Its not a big job to remove the panel anyway mate, Two torx screws to remove boot interior plastic then pull, Then sit in the boot looking outwards, Pull boot door down on to your lap, Hold bottom of door with left hand, Begin to remove the M6 lock nuts with your right hand, Take note: Count the number of rotation's it takes to remove each nut, Then repeat the same number of rotations when refitting. These nuts dont tighten down mate, If there over tightened they will pull clean out of the plastic boot handle, So count rotations off and rotations back on again.

Agreed, Lenny is a legend :)

No problem sir, Part should be with you by this day next week,

You could repair it yourself. Remember fsh is service history not repairs but is it worth the full cost?

Pretty sure Ford did an updated part for this to fix problem with water getting into the switch - may be worth getting a new one from a Ford dealer? Fitting isn't too difficult, needs the finisher removing first - 2 screws and pull tailgate trim off then 6 nuts and a wiring connector to remove the finisher. Think the switch has a small wiring plug going into it so there's no need to rewire anything to fit it. If you search there's probably a how-to or guide on here which covers removing the finisher etc

Nighttime shots,not too clear wifey parked to close to my bumper to get right behind.