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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/16/2017 in all areas

  1. I did not enjoy a journey from Alvaston, Derby (marked 2 Beech Ave on the pic, which is an arbitrary location on my route), to the tip (sorry, recycling centre, marked with the red pointer) at Raynesway taking the course of the blue line on the map. I have done it before, a few years ago, and looked on Google to refresh my mind, but it looked different on the ground, and I got in the wrong lane, on a dual carriageway. Grrrr. I know the area, my daily trip to school was on that route for 7 years. But that was a few decades ago now, and the roads are very different. So in trying to get back down the dual carriageway, I made two further mistakes. Both by taking the left lane when I wanted to turn left, only to find the roads crossed over. Why it has to be so spaghetti like, I do not know. At one point, top right in the map, I was just yards from my old school. It was all made worse by being about 5.30 when I went wrong, seeing the tip go by on the wrong side of the road, and it shut at 6.00. I could not decide whether to thump the steering wheel and swear, or burst into tears in frustration. In the end I just avoided both, and by a miracle, got there with 5 minutes spare! It was not funny at the time, but I can see the funny side now., (Just!) So feel free to have a little laugh if you wish!
    3 points
  2. I agree 100% of what Kieran has said and Mark also Custom maps are not as custom as you think they by the map in and alter it to make it custom and most dont have a dyno either had a few ppl going to well known custom mappers coming back to revo due to the custom map not being as good as you think ...... after they went to dyno the bluefin does have issues myself and a few others agreed to be same thing as Kieran said they will issue with maps that won't work I had this and went to revo plus a think bluefin torque was too low as a think its what broke my synchro as I sont rally my car ever........... I went to revo and had stage 1 the graph is a little wobbly but it smoothed out as car got used to fuel etc
    2 points
  3. N.b. Your car is still under warranty, and tampering around too much and with the wrong bits will invalidate it.
    2 points
  4. People like her will never learn, she should have her licence and child taken off her. Seemingly there is no direct equivalent to the U.S. law of 'reckless endangerment' it just falls under the crime that has been committed, in this case DUI and Dangerous Driving with or without Driving w/out insurance. Even the Offences Against the Person Act is no longer valid which would probably have covered 'Exposure' to danger. She is not fit to look after a house spider [emoji35] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2 points
  5. A friend of mine is the senior producer/presenter on our local BBC radio station and may be doing a piece on it as well.
    2 points
  6. Oh dear @Tdci-Peter that has tickled me, I'm sorry. All I could think was that if you drove an Audi you would have had no bother at all and would have been there in the proposed time. Those cars seem to be able to switch lanes without incident no matter where they are [emoji16] Sorry to hear that @Turvey I remember reading your original comment now. Good idea going to the vets and letting them know. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2 points
  7. Totally agree, when in a marked/unmarked vehicle when not on a call police Drivers are not allowed to break the limits. I have spotted the odd officer here putting on their lights when approaching a red traffic light and turning their lights off after passing through, suffice to say they got 'suitable advice' from me (I am a Sergeant so they have to listen).
    2 points
  8. Hi I fitted these washer jets to my mk 2.5 focus and they perform adequately well and don't use as much screen wash as before
    2 points
  9. Update :) So carrying on with the green theme I decided to spice up the recaro leathers I have from the ST3. As comfortable as they are, they lacked a bit of colour imo. Had an idea, and was able to make it happen via the right person Original look Got these made up to add a bit of vibrancy and charisma :) After some prep work for maximum adhesion this is the result :) Can't believe how well they have worked, the recesses in the seats were perfect for them and they've stuck so well. Got no worries about them at all atm. Took these shots just cos why not.. ST Life And favourite one I took recently, she's looking good to me! You know me, still got more bits to add on and things that will pull everything together so stay tuned
    2 points
  10. Quite recent owner of an S max titanium sport 180 diesel. Bought through the ford direct, who ever bought this car new nearly ticked every option box lol. Would just like to say hi to to all the forum members.
    1 point
  11. Really appreciate the advice :) Thanks, all. I've ordered the Bosch AeroTwin front blades and the rear wiper from wiperblades.co.uk. I found a 10% off voucher so I had a discount on top of the 20% off sale at the moment. The blades including delivery were £24.70 - not bad! They didn't stock the Valeo blades for my car so I went with Bosch instead.
    1 point
  12. +1 for Valeo blades and Bosch of course. I agree with @karl46 blades should be replaced after a year. I don't tend to stick to that and change them when they need changing, anything over a year and I'm happy. If it's less I grumble lol. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  13. Just thought I'd give an update on this issue. I decided to purchase a new actuator as i didn't have the confidence to take the old one apart. When fitting it the valve itself was fine and i could open and close it by hand. So no stuck valve as the Ford Dealership suggested. Since fitting the new actuator I've had no issues and no EML, but I'm still not counting my chickens, just yet. It was an aftermarket part, and I'm not sure Ford sell the actuator separately. Thanks to TDCI Peter, you probably saved me the best part of £1000. And as for the Ford Dealership, well I now use an independent. Brian
    1 point
  14. Had Valeo blades on my fiesta mk6 and loved them. Bought two sets of 'cheap' blades for our focus from Amazon and took them off after a week and replaced them with Bosch ones, like you said, pricey but you get what you pay for.....
    1 point
  15. Welcome to the forum
    1 point
  16. I've tested many a wiper blade. The one brand that has proven itself to be crap on any car I've put it on is Halfords own. Beyond this I've found the Bosch ones to be the best. But they are pricey. Heard good things about Valeo who many manufacturers also use.
    1 point
  17. James, just been reading your car thread and wow what a transformation! Great car! Thanks for the info, looks like I'll be getting a Revo MAP :)
    1 point
  18. Thank you so much :) Haha I'm pretty good at finding things to be honest just seem to have a knack for it. I haven't lowered it as of yet, however.. SPOILER. Things are on order, just stuck up in easter traffic :) I do agree, the arch gap on the rear from standard is just an eye sore. Hopefully very soon it will be sitting lovely
    1 point
  19. Did you download the correct Secondary Bootloader file (F1ET-14C025-BB.vbf) to the prescribed folder? If the Forscan program does not have the correct Secondary Bootloader file it will never connect to the IPC. Note that the IPC only contains a backup configuration file. This file is only used as a backup in case the BCM is defective and needs to be replaced. The BCM contains the master configuration file that is used to configure most modules of the car. Changing the BCM configuration is enough to make the Cruise Control functions work.
    1 point
  20. On my Focus MK3 one of the front springs broke approximately 1,5 Year ago. Instead of changing both front springs I decided to instal a set of Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs. A set of 4 Eibach lowering springs was way cheaper than 2 original front springs.
    1 point
  21. There are different part number for the heated and non heated version type. see guide: Guide to Fitting New Ford Mist Type Jets on all Models Click Here
    1 point
  22. Idealy blades should be replaced every year. If the Bosch blades have given you satisfaction and confidence, replace like for like. Cheap unknown blades are a liability especially at night. ww.ebay.co.uk/itm/321881714511?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182039358562?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    1 point
  23. Wilco, what you don't know about Ford cars is not worth knowing about, Genius 👍
    1 point
  24. I don't really like the Bosch ones. Usually I go for Ford - despite being a little expensive, they do last quite well...ignore the yellow spot and do what everyone else does - use you're own judgement when it comes to replacement. Saying that, the cheap Tesco aero-flats used to be pretty good!! Think I had 3 sets on my old Punto - over about 3 years - so yeah, got a good year out of 'em. Not bad at £4 a blade lol
    1 point
  25. I don't have an order number. The print I have does not list adaptive headlights though I've been on the Ford Etis (?) site and the car has adaptive headlights 😀 My point is, some Ford dealerships are listing adaptive headlights as standard on the ST X. I have been charged at my dealership 🙁
    1 point
  26. the coolant temps get hotter quicker, i noticed this while monitoring temp sensor via obd, supprised me how hot just accelerating hard for a few seconds. as for temp gauge, it is pretty useless indicator of temp. on my focus it read normal midway temp from approx 60 c to 110c( via obd )with needle not moving at all.
    1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. Quite right, especially if yoi have a double mass flywheel clutch. Στάλθηκε από το XT1032 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
    1 point
  29. Thanks for the replies guys. Only time will tell on this technology! think starter motor & the battery will be the first to go, followed by a worn flywheel.
    1 point
  30. Most cooling system problems of the 1.0 ECOboost are caused by the higher coolant temperature. In relation to the older naturally aspirated petrol engines the direct injected, turbocharged 1.0 and 1.6 ECOboost petrol engines have a considerably higher engine and coolant temperature. This causes some plastic and vulcanised rubber materials that are used for some coolant system parts to deteriorate prematurely. Examples of this are the degas hose, coolant reservoir, coolant reservopir cap, etc. The Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example uses the exact same coolant reservoir as the earlier C-max MK1/Focus MK2. This type of reservoir was introduced in 2003 on the C-max MK1 and has been used for many engine types without any problems. The ECOboost engines are the only ones which suffers from premature coolant reservoir failures on a large scale. On the ECOboost engines the plastic material of the coolant reservoir can develop (micro)cracks and discoloration which in the end causes the reservoir to burst. Another point of concern is the coolant itself. The higher coolant temperature causes the coolant to crystallize. This causes crystal deposits to attach inside the coolant system parts. As a result of this for example the coolant reservoir cap can seize solid onto the reservoir. on the long term the deposits inside the cooling system can eventually cause blockages of the coolant system. Next to this the Earlier versions of the 1.0 ECOboost (build approximately before 2015) suffer from a design fault. These early versions only have a coolant temperature sensor that is mounted inside the coolant system and measures the coolant temperature. This sensor is used by the PCM to monitor the coolant temperature and control the temperature gauge and the temperature warning light. In case of a coolant leak the coolant leaks away pretty quick. When this happens the coolant temperature measures air instead of coolant. Air does not conduct the temperature very well. Because of this the PCM does not detect overheating of the engine at all or much too late. In this case when the driver notices the activated temperature warning light it is usually too late already. Serious engine damage as a result of overheating can occur without the driver even noticing. On later versions Ford solved this problem by installing an additional cylinder head temperature sensor. I have a 2013 low mileage (16000 MLS) Focus MK3 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost. When I bought the car in 2014 I already replaced the degas hose (not a recall yet at that time). Last Year the coolant reservoir developed microcracks and discoloration. This made me decide to perform the following actions: * Replace the coolant reservoir. * Replace the coolant reservoir cap. * Replace the coolant. * Install the additional electric coolant pump. After all parts were replaced I vacuum bled the coolant system and reprogrammed the PCM (necessary for the additional electric coolant pump). Luckily I have the skills/knowledge and tools to do this myself. i am currently investigating the possibility to install the additional cylinder head temperature sensor that is used on later versions of the 1.0 ECOboost. However earlier 1.0 ECOboost PCM's do not support this additional sensor. I will have to design a custom microprocessor controlled circuitry that monitors the output of both the coolant temperature sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor and outputs a signal to the PCM.
    1 point
  31. Well, with outside temp around 15 cel. mine works after 2 minutes or 500-600 metres road. Battery is two years old. Στάλθηκε από το XT1032 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. No, among the many things that must be ok for stop start to function I'm sure engine up to temp is one of them. Mine doesn't work with a cold engine
    1 point
  34. Mine doesn't usually work when the engine is cold? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  35. I have the 1.5 TDCi estate. My plan is to remove rear silencer and replace with a straighy pipe and dfferent style tail pipe. Not after outright noise just a subtle look. Induction filter gives you a little noise in cabin.
    1 point
  36. Blimey I've heard some things in my life. Swapping rear speakers and noticing it in the front? Rear speakers are only for rear fill and nothing more. Front speakers do the work. 6.5" speakers are the norm in the focus. Replacement of the fronts tho will need adapter rings which are readily available. Swapping front speakers is the 1st thing to get a better sound. After that it's down to how much you can afford but getting a fantastic sound can be done for around £600. That includes a better headunit and an amp and a subwoofer. Find posts by Lenny on here. You'll find tons of info.
    1 point
  37. I prefer it that way, I like listening to my music loud(ish) when I'm driving but I don't want the sat nav lady to scream directions at me - if I wanted that I'd just give the wife a map [emoji87] In built up areas I'd obviously have my music lower but on the motorway or A roads I'd have it louder. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  38. U got a link for it?
    1 point
  39. I can vouch for these speakers as I have them fitted. Real value for money. On Youtube there is a video of how to connect these speakers without buying the cable adaptors which invariably don't fit the Ford wiring harness.
    1 point
  40. https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/jvc-cs-j620x-16cm-6-5-2-way-coaxial-car-speakers-300w.html?search=JVC CS-J620X JVC CS J620x, just remember you'll also need cable adapters and 6.5" adapter surrounds to seal the speakers properly to the door.
    1 point
  41. Great little tip! Thanks for that I've been out test driving it today absolutely beautiful to drive!! I didn't check if it had Bluetooth or stop start but I presume this is standard now?? managed to get £8k for mine thought it was a fair price?
    1 point
  42. Yup, just replaced the rears in mine with some cheap JVC's which run rings around the original speakers.
    1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. mk7 is easier than older mk, just 2 torx screws hold drum on, then unhook the retainers and springs off shoes
    1 point
  45. on my mk6.5 fiesta you do not undo the big hub nut, you go around the back of the brake plate and undo the four big bolts that hold the stub axle on. you then remove the drum and the stub axle as one unit. this means no messing about with the actual wheel bearings themselves. you need to remove the abs sensor first (one bolt). I had to get in there because the auto rear brake adjusters were not adjusting up themselves and needed moving manually. I cleared out all the dust at same time. the shoes were about half worn. they were the original shoes and had done about 140k miles . I do not know if mk7 is the same but I would be surprised if it were not. The way I did it is the proper way, it is not some improvised thing I thought up myself. I believe ford say you should replace the four bolts with new ones. Even on my 1998 Ford Escort this was the 'correct' way to do it.
    1 point
  46. Thanks for all your help. The system is definitely set up for mph, to be fair I think a few spurious signs are to be expected and at least the ones I'm getting are very clearly incorrect. You are right about a dealer trip being needed but to try and go armed with information I rang the Ford UK technical information line (£1 a minute!!) and after going off and searching (fortunately they rang me back, I didn't have to hold on) the answer is that it used to work as I expect in Sync 2 but they don't know how it Is designed to work on a focus with sync 3! It's booked in with the dealer at the beginning of May so I'll report back then.
    1 point
  47. nice one, im thinking of getting one , cant decide what colour yet though.
    1 point
  48. Nice!! welcome to the forum
    1 point
  49. Just a throwback to what my car looked like and now
    1 point




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